Category Archives: Reviews

With Eataly Open, Don’t Forget Chicagoland’s Other Italian Groceries

Flag_of_Chicago,_IllinoisItalyOur much-anticipated and extensive review of Eataly is forthcoming (we’ll do it after we get at least two visits under our belts). But with Eataly and its associated madness and euphoria  now in Chicago, it may be time to remind everyone that our fair city (and the surrounding region) has many, many other places to stock up on domestic and imported Italian cheeses, meats, and other products. But along with them, these stores are local, family-owned, and well-established in the area: aspects that should be appealing to those who object to Eataly on mass-consumerist and New York-transplant grounds.

The west loop, especially west of the Kennedy, is home to some of the city’s oldest Italian groceries. J.P. Graziano Grocery & Company (901 W Randolph), founded in 1937, is a staple grocery in the area, as well as a purveyor of spot-on Italian sandwiches that Yelpers rave about. One of our favorite Chicago food podcasts, Sky Full of Bacon, paid a visit to J.P. Graziano and its fourth-generation owner, Jim Graziano, as he talked about the store, its history, and of course cheese as he lovingly sliced into an unopened wheel of parmigiano-reggiano. Check out their film on vimeo about the experience.

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Cheeses, meats, and condiments stacked sky-high at Piatto Pronto.

On the north side, we recently discovered Piatto Pronto (5624 N Clark), a full service Italian deli and food purveyor whose wide assortment of Italian products is jam-packed into their small storefront. Close to our home base, we were thrilled to find high-quality prosciutto di parma, mozzarella di bufala, and a wide selection of panettone just in time for the holidays. It’s now become our go-to prosciutto and cheese shop in the city, both for its location and the high quality of its offerings.

Finally, we are going to recommend all Chicagoans who will spend the time to go downtown to Eataly and wait in line to spend the same amount of time, or even less, to head up I-94 over the Wisconsin border to Tenuta’s Italian Grocery and Delicatessen (3203 52nd Street, Kenosha, WI). Founded in 1950, Tenuta’s easily outshines the offering and variety of any other Italian store in Chicago. We regularly make trips to Kenosha to stock up – seemingly endless aisles of domestic and imported cheeses, meats, pastas, olive oils, spirits, and other goodies leave Tenuta’s unparalleled, and make it easily worth the trip. Our standard purchase includes spicy prosciutto di parma, some samples from their Italian olive selection, parmesan and mozarella cheeses, our favorite Sicilian olive oil, and interesting pasta varieties you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. To top it all off, have a house-made panini while you wait.

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Paul Ryan and ETW agree: Tenuta’s is amazing. (Photo: AP / Mary Altaffer).

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Jibaritos at Papa’s Cache Sabroso

Papa’s Cache Saboroso
2517 W Division St
Chicago, IL

Flag of Puerto RicoFlag_of_Chicago,_IllinoisFresh from a scintillating bomba performance (complete with vejigantes!) at the Puerto Rican Arts Alliance‘s “Loíza in Chicago,” we realized, as we so often do in this wonderful city of ours, that we have neglected on of its great culinary traditions. While Humboldt Park, the epicenter of Chicago’s thriving Puerto Rican community, possesses a large number of Puerto Rican restaurants and eateries, we had never before tried a jibarito, a sandwich (usually filled with beef or chicken) dressed with garlic-mayo between a “bun” of fried green plantains. The jibarito has one of those origin stories that sounds made-up, the common “I just decided to do this one day and then it took off” tale, but apparently this time it is true: in 1996, Juan C. Figueroa, proprietor of Borinquen Restaurant in Humboldt Park, invented the sandwich after being inspired by reading about a similar idea in a newspaper.

So where to go to get one of these delectable Chicago delicacies? La Plena? La Palma? To Borinquen, its origin? In time we will likely try all the jibaritos we can, but for now, we went with the recommendation of friends and ended up at a beloved hole-in-the-wall: Papa’s Cache Saboroso. With just a few tables, a brisk take-out service, and an ordering counter decorated like a beach food shack, Papa’s dispenses with any formalities to feature high-quality, tasty, and well-price Chicago-PR fare.

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L, of course, got the chicken breast jibarito. Marinated chicken breast, mayo dressing, tomatoes and lettuce, all featured on the signature fried green plantains, with a side of rice. We love fried plantains anyway, but we were surprised at just how well they work as a sandwich. Firm enough to hold everything together, they still provide a great flavor profile compliment to the rest of the meat and veggies that you just can’t get from regular bread, or really any kind of bread. Just great.

Meanwhile, M had a conundrum on this particular Saturday. Go with the jibarito – really, the reason we came – or go for broke and get the Saturdays-only special, the lechon asado, a seasoned roasted suckling pig that is one of the competitors for national dish of Puerto Rico (some mofongo-lovers may take offense). If there is one thing we have learned about M in this blog (besides the love of spicy food) it is that he will stop in his tracks if roasted or smoked pig is anywhere in the vicinity. As was the case here.???????????????????????????????

Lechon asado, like all great pig roasts, takes a while to make: the menu says “This dish takes so much love and attention you can only get it o Saturdays!” It may be true – a crispy, flavor-kicking crust on the outside and pull-apart meat on the inside. While this version was a tad on the dry side for our tastes, the sweet plantains and salad on the side provide a nice way to cut across all the flavors. Finish with beans and rice, and this is a great way to spend a Saturday.

While we loved our jibarito and will definitely be back, no need to not experiment further. If you’re having trouble making up your mind, Serious Eats Chicago may be able to help with their list of the Top 10 jibaritos in the city.

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Eataly Preview from Chicago Magazine

ItalyOn December 4, Italian food lovers from around the Midwest can rejoice when Mario Batali’s Italian food wonder-emporium, Eataly, finally opens its doors in Chicago. At 63,000 square feet, boasting eight restaurants and a live olive tree, it will be the largest in the United States (take that, New York!).

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Chicago Magazine, always up on the latest upscale food trends, has a great photo series offering a tantalizing behind-the-scenes preview. The prosciutto and cheese is enough to make us get in line right now – which apparently is not a bad idea, as the first weekend will likely be a madhouse (though queuers will get free gelato). Until then, enjoy the food porn!

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Tea Time at Spencer’s Jolly Posh Foods

Spencer’s Jolly Posh Foods [closed]
1405 W Irving Park Road
Chicago, IL 60613

united_kingdomIrelandWhile we are frequenters of Mexican, Haitian and Thai grocery stores, until this trip we had never visited a British / Irish grocery store in the United States. Selling everything from Dairy Milk chocolates to house-made British sausages and back bacon, Spencer’s can fulfill almost any British grocery craving. When we found out that this little grocery store also served high tea we knew we had to visit ASAP.

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Silver Star Portuguese Bakery in Providence

Silver Star Bakery
150 Ives St.
Providence, Rhode Island

Silver Star Bakery’s English name belies its specialty in all things Portuguese – after our visit we think it should probably be called Estrela de Prata instead. From our Pastry Post-Doc in Portugal we became very well-acquainted with the country’s extensive sweet heritage. As you know, we here at ETW are particularly obsessed with Pasteis de Nata (Portuguese egg custard tarts), and, sadly, there is absolutely no place to get them in Chicago. Fortunately, Providence has a large Portuguese population, with the bakeries to match. We figured we’d be able to find Pasteis de Nata at Silver Star, and there was indeed a large tray on display when we arrived, for only $1.75 a pop.

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We are pretty discerning about our pasteis, and have specific criteria for what makes one perfect, as we detailed in our rubric for the best pasteis in Lisbon. The version at Silver Star was excellent, and even surpassed some of the versions we had in Lisbon. The crust was flaky and crispy, not soggy at all; and the filling was light and creamy. The caramelization of the top was also perfect! These were the American pasteis we had been waiting for, and we even got to order in Portuguese. Now if only we could replicate them at home….

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But even though the Pasteis de Nata are the star, other Portuguese specialties available include Malasadas, Portuguese sweet rolls, fradinhos and more. There is also a wide selection of American treats including cookies, mini tarts and doughnuts. We also sampled a fradinho, a sweet tart with a bean filling dusted with powdered sugar, which was delicate and tasty. We visited Silver Star twice, once on our way to the Brown campus, and another time on our way to the airport (we absolutely had to get another round before we got home). If we lived in Providence we guarantee that the majority of our diet would consist of solely Silver Star pasteis.

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Hoosier Mama Pie Company Comes to Evanston

This past Saturday, Nov 9th, the Hoosier Mama Pie Company opened a second outpost in Evanston (1618 Chicago Ave). M and I had been anticipating the store’s opening for months, as we watched the construction progress in the brand spanking new Amli building. I mean, the sign in the window announced, “Pie and Coffee,” so how could we not be intrigued!? When we arrived at HMPC on opening day, there was a small line, but the staff seemed to be holding down the fort pretty well for a grand opening.

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Along with pies, there is a full coffee menu by Dollop. To complement our pie we ordered a Mexican hot chocolate and a honey cinnamon latte (made with Metropolis coffee) – both of which were delicious. There are also savory food options including some hearty sandwiches and soups if you need something BEFORE your pie (we usually don’t). The space is bright and airy, with a very high ceiling, but the seating area itself is not that large. Instead, most of the space is given over to the massive pie-producing kitchen. The kitchen is a huge expansion from their original Ukrainian Village outpost. I think you could fit several of the UK Village stores in the kitchen alone.

At HMPC you can get whole small of large full pies, and also pies by the slice ($5 for a slice of sweet pie and $6 for a savory pie). At this time people were already pre-ordering for Thanksgiving, so you’d better get a jump on it if you want a full pie for a special day. There were a huge number of pies available, including: Chocolate chess, lemon meringue, key lime, pumpkin, sugar and more (though some were already sold out). Having a sweet tooth, we ordered a slice of chocolate chess pie and a slice of key lime. One thing that sets HM apart is their dedication to savory pies as well, and at least half of the menu was given over to meaty options.

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The chocolate chess pie was basically a brownie in a pie shell. No one is quite sure where it gets the moniker “chess”, but it is perfect for those among us who have a major sweet tooth. The key lime pie was creamy and perfectly tart, with a very delicate meringue topping. Nothing sickly sweet here. We very much enjoyed our Hoosier Mama pies, and we are excited to live so close to a legitimate pie store. We certainly will be back to sample even more flavors.

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Neapolitan pizza at Spacca Napoli

Spacca Napoli
1769 W Sunnyside Ave
Chicago, IL

ItalyWe’re pretty picky about our pizza, and pretty sure that going to Naples has made us even pickier about Neapolitan style pizza in particular. However, when the pizza craving hits, it hits hard. And fortunately there are some truly great places to get Neapolitan pizzas in Chicago. Spacca Napoli is one of those places. When we learned that one of the owners had trained to be a pizzamaker in Naples and had an Italian brick oven, we were definitely sold.

Spacca Napoli has a nice selection of pizzas, divided into “Rosse” (with red sauce) and “Bianche” (without) including the two essential Neapolitan styles, Marinara and Margherita. At  $9.50 and $12.50 respectively, the pizzas were more expensive than in Naples, but still very reasonable. We selected two pizza on our visit, a red pizza and white pizza, without the typical marinara sauce. The white pizza, Bianco Nero ($16.00) had Pecorino cheese with black truffles, Fior di Latte mozzarella, porcini mushrooms, and finished with white truffle oil. M ordered his favorite combination from Napoli, the Diavola ($16.00) which was topped with mozzarella di bufala, spicy salami, red pepper flakes and basil.

Spacca Pizza

The crust of the pizza was excellent: both chewy and light, and not soggy at all in the middle (our pet peeve). We also appreciated the generous hand with the toppings, and the availability of buffalo mozzarella. The pizza was great, but don’t let that be the end of your meal. Spacca Napoli also has gelato ($4.50) in a variety of flavors: cream, hazelnut, cappuccino, chocolate, pistachio and raspberry. We ordered a scoop of chocolate, even though we had polished off both of our pizzas. We highly enjoyed our pizzas at Spacca Napoli – we think we have found our go-to Neapolitan pizza place in Chicago.

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Time Warp in Wicker Park: Artemio’s Bakery

ArtemiosSign

Artemio’s Bakery
1443 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Chicago, IL

Every time we go to Wicker Park the landscape is slightly different than the time before, with upscale stores and eateries seeming to carve out a larger footprint each visit. Time marches on, however there are some places that stay the same even though everything around them changes. One of those stalwarts is Artemio’s Bakery, which seems like it is a transplant from another era. Walk in the front door and you will feel like you are in a time warp – the bakery is crammed with wooden cases and the strong aroma of butter and sugar is unmistakable. But don’t worry, in this case a time warp is a good thing, the pastries are old-school and everything is unbelievably cheap! 25 cents for a cookie? Heck – 25 cents for anything?!?! Even in Brazil the smallest piece of candy was usually 50 cents apiece (R$ 1). Cookies at Artemio’s are only 25 cents and larger pastries like croissants or conchas are barely a dollar.

Artemios

The selection is wide (though unlabeled, so you may have to guess or ask), and you can get nearly every kind of Mexican pastry, as well as American classics. We spotted croissants, cupcakes, coconut macaroons, many types of cookies, tarts, elephant ears, doughnuts, sweet rolls and cakes by the slice including chocolate and tres leches. This time around we ordered several black and white cookies and a giant sugary croissant – both delicious – and they set us back less than $2. As we trailed sugary crumbs down Milwaukee avenue we were satiated and happy. Definitely check out Artemio’s for a cheap sugar fix and for a time warp back to old-school Wicker Park.

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Cajun Cuisine at The Cabin Restaurant

The Cabin
5405 Louisiana 44
Burnside, LA

We spent our last day in Baton Rouge visiting Houmas House, a plantation about an hour outside the city, and naturally, we had some food plans to go along with our outing. When we put out an open call for restaurant recommendations near Baton Rouge and one of our readers, Justin Newhart, suggested we try the The Cabin, a spot for Cajun food not too far from Houmas House. Like many of the places we visited on our trip, The Cabin seemed to pop out of nowhere, and true to its name, was indeed a cabin. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a giant log alligator sculpture out front – welcome to Louisiana! 

The Cabin Restaurant

It is worth noting the restaurant’s architecture, which was definitely eclectic and impressive. From the road, the restaurant itself doesn’t seem very big, however, once you are inside, the space is expansive, and contains many connected buildings. There is even an impressive open-beamed high ceiling, as you can see below. Out back there is a courtyard and a complex of other small, restored buildings including slave cabins, a general store and a schoolhouse, many of which were relocated from nearby towns. Far from being a replica of old Southern buildings, The Cabin is the real deal. 

The Cabin Restaurant

We arrived at about noon Sunday, and the Cabin was doing a pretty brisk brunch business. The menu at the Cabin is large and decidedly Cajun, and especially featured seafood. There are many preparations of shrimp, crawfish and catfish, and you can even get a Po’Boy. For the indecisive, there are also a number of samplers such as the “Cabin Seafood platter” ($28.95) which comes with catfish, shrimp, oysters, crab fingers, stuffed crab, crawfish tails, crawfish Étouffée, and a cup of gumbo. L ordered the Crawfish Étouffée ($14.95) with a side of red beans and rice while M and his father went with the Cabin Special ($10.95) which included a cup of chicken and andouille sausage gumbo, jambalaya, and black-eyed peas. We got a plate of cornbread while we were waiting, which was a great match for our sweet tea in mason jars, our go-to drink order in the South.

Crawfish Etouffee and fixins at The Cabin Restaurant

Crawfish Etouffee and fixins at The Cabin Restaurant

The portions were gigantic (as you can see above), and everything was hearty and delicious. We probably could have brought some of our food home, but sadly we were off to a catch a flight home right after. The biggest hit of the day was our dessert: the buttermilk pie, which was superlative ($3.50 a slice). You can even buy the pie recipe for a dollar upon checkout. We probably should have bought the recipe, but I think we’d rather come back someday for a return trip!

The famous Buttermilk Pie

The famous Buttermilk Pie

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Roberto’s River Road Restaurant, a hidden gem

Roberto’s River Road Restaurant
1985 Louisiana 75
Sunshine, LA

Usually when someone says that a restaurant is in the middle of nowhere, it is usually hyperbole. However, if they are not exaggerating, this is the restaurant they mean. If you are driving to Roberto’s at night, it seems like you are driving into the darkness for just a mile too far, and when you are about to give up because you are truly in the middle of nowhere, Roberto’s seems to pop up just over the horizon. From the outside, Roberto’s looks like little more than a small white shack, but the inside is cozy, comfortable and a lot bigger than it looks. R4 is one of M’s dad’s favorite haunts in the vicinity of Baton Rouge, so we were very excited to try it.

Roberto's River Road Restaurant

Closing time at Roberto’s River Road Restaurant

We arrived at about 8:30, to a nearly full house, though we managed to snag one of the last tables. Roberto’s menu focuses on upscale casual Cajun food, especially seafood. The dish that came most highly recommended to us was River Road Shrimp (available as either an appetizer or an entree over pasta), which consisted of shrimp in a bell pepper and spicy brandy butter sauce, so we knew we had to try it. There were also several dishes that featured crawfish: our favorite Cajun staple, Etouffe; a crawfish and Portobella mushroom pasta; and the quizzically named Catfish Dot – a grilled catfish filet topped with herbed crawfish (this was the option we went for). Fish of the Day in Papillote also came highly recommended – the catch of the day wrapped in parchment paper and baked with lemon and herbs.

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We started out with a cup of chicken and sausage gumbo (there is also seafood gumbo) – which was delicious  – extremely rich and flavorful. The seafood dishes were similarly tasty, and surprisingly light. For once we did not feel guilty about indulging in Cajun flavors (though of course there are fried options, too). For dessert we tried a special: cookies and cream bread pudding, which was excellent, but definitely did not need the extra sweetness of the marshmallow sauce. We managed to stick around until closing time, though the restaurant was still buzzing from a squad car full of Baton Rouge’s finest and a crowd that came in on an LSU stretch limo. Roberto’s may be off the beaten path, but it is definitely worth a little drive.

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Tsunami: Sushi with a view in Baton Rouge

Tsunami
100 Lafayette Street
Baton Rouge, LA

JapanIf you’re looking for scenery with your sushi, Tsunami definitely impresses. Located on top of the Shaw Center for the Arts, Tsunami is an upscale sushi restaurant with a bar and a terrace with a panoramic view of Baton Rouge and the Mississippi river. We had a very pleasant dinner at Tsunami with M’s dad and his friend Chuck, who are both experts on Baton Rouge restaurants and nightlife. M’s Dad knew we are always looking for good local restaurants, so he wisely picked Tsunami as an upscale option.

Tsunami

Tsunami’s  dining room and view

Though there are Japanese entrees available including Japanese dishes like Tonkatsu ($15) and Chicken Teriyaki ($16), Tsunami’s focus is sushi. Tsunami serves a variety of innovative rolls, with a few Cajun touches sprinkled in, which we appreciated! For example, check out the Ragin’ Cajun Roll ($8) – only in Louisiana! – with panko fried alligator and avocado. We also ordered the Jazz Roll ($10), which includes snow crab, asparagus, boiled shrimp in a soy paper; and the 412 Roll ($16), with cream cheese, asparagus, tuna, avocado and crunchy shrimp topped with tuna and avocado. There are also Nigiri (for $5 to 8 each) which would appeal more to the sushi purist with varieties like Yellowtail, Tuna and Salmon Roe.

Tsunami Sushi

Tsunami Sushi

While we were waiting for the sushi to arrive we snapped some pictures of the river and the town, and on a more temperate night, it certainly would have been a great place to eat (it was 95 degrees when we dined!). Our sushi arrived, and we were immediately impressed by the presentation (and a little by the prodigious portion size as well). We also ordered a special roll with tempura shrimp that was particularly tasty though the portion was gigantic. The fish was very fresh, and we appreciated the special Cajun touches that you could not get at a sushi restaurant “up north.” To finish off our meal we enjoyed chocolate cake, elegantly served with ice cream and Pocky Sticks in a bento box. Though we enjoyed the food, the view was the true superstar. Tsunami is a perfect place for a date night (we witnessed a few) or for a group of friends. It was a wonderful suggestion!

View of Baton Rouge from Tsunami

View of Baton Rouge from Tsunami terrace

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Cajun Street Food in Baton Rouge: Boudin

The pronunciation of some words is enough to separate locals from tourists, and connoisseurs from newbies. One of those such words is “Boudin.” Boudin, a rice-stuffed pork sausage from Louisiana, is pronounced “boo-dan” not “boo-deen,” as one might expect. Boudin is found all over Cajun country (you can even take “Boudin Trail” tour), and is descended from sausages found in French Acadian cuisine. Boudin is available in any good Louisiana Cajun restaurant or grocery store, but we think we have found our favorite way to enjoy Boudin – as a late-night Po’Boy topped with pulled pork.

Southern Dawgz Stand -ready for night owls

Southern Dawgz Stand -ready for night owls

We found this particular incarnation of Boudin sold in a stand called Southern Dawgz on the corner of Florida and 3rd in downtown Baton Rouge. The truck is there most Thursday-Saturday nights (until 2 AM!), and there is a small selection of items, though most everyone is there for the Boudin. You can get a basic Boudin dog, or a “Bleu” topped with blue cheese or a “Heart Attack” topped with bacon. The cookmaster of this particular Boudin stand is Jerry, who is actually from Southern Ohio, and sous chef is from Indiana. Boudin is often sold in fried “Boudin Balls” much like meatballs, but at Southern Dawgz you get them in a form similar to brats. We ordered a smoked Boudin Po’Boy, which was great. The filling was perfectly seasoned, and the Boudin link had a charred snap. However, Jerry upped the ante by suggesting we try the stand’s “Red Dawg,” a Boudin dog topped with pulled pork and a tomato-based BBQ sauce. The pulled pork was a great addition, and contributed even more to the ultimate late night pig out!

Southern Dawg

Southern Dawg photo by digbatonrouge.com

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The Best Po’Boy in New Orleans: Parkway Bakery and Tavern

Parkway Bakery and Tavern
538 Hagan Ave.
New Orleans, LA

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It’s been nearly two years since we first became obsessed with New Orleans’ quintessential local sandwich, the Po’Boy. Though we had heard of them before coming to Louisiana, and they are available at a few Southern spots in Chicago, our first real experience with Po’Boys in NOLA was in November 2011 at the Oak Street Po’Boy festival. That day we tried a bunch of different sandwiches, but our Po’Boy from Parkway Bakery and Tavern was among our favorite samples. We think of the festival as a pretty formative experience, and we even had a paper Parkway Bakery hat we kept as a souvenir. Though we won’t make it back to the Fest again this year, we were lucky enough to spend a day in New Orleans on our Louisiana tour, and made it a priority to seek out Parkway’s on-site offerings, widely claimed to be the best and city, produced in a restaurant and which claims to be the place where the Po’Boy sandwich originated. 

A Po’Boy sandwich (short for Poor Boy) consists of a particular type of French roll, with a crusty exterior and soft interior, filled (traditionally) with fried fish or seafood (we are partial to fried shrimp) and “dressed” with mayo, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles. As we learned at the Po’Boy fest, the term really encompasses a wide range of sandwiches, and the filling could truly be anything you have a taste for. Parkway in Mid City, is (thankfully) far off the tourist track, though it is certainly a popular place with locals from all walks of life. When you walk into Parkway Tavern you are first greeted by an unassuming bar and a handful of tall table. However, you can either order at the bar or at the walk-up counter and then wait for a place at a communal table either indoors or outdoors.

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Parkway has a pretty extensive menu of Po’Boys, including fried shrimp, fried oyster, fried catfish, fried sweet potato (for the vegetarians among us), BBQ beef, and many more. There are non-Po’Boy options available, but we question both the sanity and taste level of those who order them. Wanting to be traditionalists on this day, we opted for the classic fried shrimp Po’Boy while M’s dad went eclectic and got a “Surf ‘N Turf,” a combo of shrimp and roast beef, considered a Parkway specialty and client favorite. We placed our order and the counter and waited patiently for our name to be called. A few minutes (which seemed like an eternity) later we were delivered our picture-perfect Po’Boys – see proof below.

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The Parkway Po’Boy is truly a thing of beauty. The key to a good Po’Boy is the combination of ingredients on the crusty bread, and at Parkway, everything seemed to work in perfect harmony. The chefs care as well: even given the very high output, this was our first experience with the men behind the counter carefully double-checking our order to make sure they got everything right. And did they: the shrimp we freshly fried (turnover would seem to guarantee that), the portion was more than generous, and the toppings balanced the sandwich perfectly. We all opted for the “regular” size Po’Boys, which was more than enough: though it may be possible for a single person to finish a “large,” we wouldn’t recommend it. If you are extra-hungry there are Zapp’s potato chips and a few desserts, too. If we lived in New Orleans we know this would be one of our favorite spots. Though we always have more places to try, we can’t help but agree with the locals: The Best Po’Boys in NOLA in an unpretentious, local spot for a great price. We’ll have to make the pilgrimage every year.

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First look at Next Restaurant’s Bocuse d’Or

franceThe ever-exciting Next Restaurant has moved on to their newest menu: a tribute to Bocuse d’Or, a prestigious biennial international cooking competition in Lyon, France. Check out the official trailer for the menu below. So what can we expect from Bocuse d’Or? The menu, running through December has 15 courses and is decidedly French, with canapes, veal terrine and pheasant dishes. Micheal Gebert has a fascinating behind-the-scenes photo series on all the prep involved in putting together the Bocuse meal at Next. For those want another look at what diners can expect, photographer Emilia Jane has a complete photo series of the dinner menu. Beautiful presentation and original food from Next as usual!

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Handmade noodles and dumplings at Katy’s Dumpling House

Katy’s Dumpling House
1113 Lake St.
Oak Park, IL

China flagEveryone has been raving about Katy’s Dumpling for ages, with buzz bubbling up on LTH forum as far back as the mid-2000s. When I first heard about Katy’s it was only a single outpost in suburban Westmont. However, in later years it has mushroomed into three locations sprinkled throughout the Western suburbs. We had a friend staying near the shiny, new Oak Park outpost, so we decided to finally give the storied Katy’s a try. The Oak Park version had a very modern feel, with big red booths and wood paneling; apparently, the previous tenant was another Chinese restaurant, Hutong, which explains the semi-temporary feel.

Katy's Dumpling House in Oak Park, IL

Katy’s Dumpling House in Oak Park, IL

Katy’s menu was large, featuring a variety of appetizers, noodle dishes and rice entrees. We also appreciated the sprinkling of regional dishes like Spicy Beggar’s Chicken Jiangnan Style and Dan Dan noodles from Chengdu. However, we were really at Katy’s for the dumplings and noodles. The dumplings came mainly in meat and vegetable combos ($6.95-8.95) for either 10 boiled dumplings or 8 Pot Stickers. We started out with two orders of dumplings: pork and chives and chicken and bok choy, both in Pot Sticker form. The dumpling dough was perfectly tender, and was well-proportioned to the filling, a delicate balance that can often go awry. We also thought they were pan-fried perfectly!

Katy's Signature Dumplings

Katy’s Signature Dumplings

From the selection of hand-pulled noodles, L ordered the Singapore-style noodles ($7.95), which were Cantonese-style thin vermicelli noodles in a mild soy and curry sauce. While the sauce was good, the standout were the phenomenally-light noodles. Our dining companion also ordered the basil chicken ($7.95), which while good, was extremely spicy (perhaps a misunderstanding there, since M had in fact ordered his “extra spicy”) and was chock full of whole chili peppers. M opted for a Uyghur dish: Xinjiang-style cumin beef ($8.95). It was slightly oily, but M appreciated the vibrant and earthy flavor from the whole cumin pods and red chiles.

Singapore Noodles at Katy's Dumpling House

Singapore Noodles at Katy’s Dumpling House

Now we don’t know what the original Katy’s in Westmont is like, so keep that in mind, but we heartily enjoyed the Oak Park outpost. Everything we ordered was excellent, and we especially loved the fresh noodles and dumplings, which, perhaps unsurprisingly, stood above the rice dishes.

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A taste of the Netherlands in Iowa: The Dutch Letter

Netherlands flagWe recently read a New York Times “Frugal Traveler” article about a road trip in the heart of America in a dirction less traveled: Baton Rouge, Louisiana to Fargo, North Dakota. Along the way, the author encounters lots of interesting characters and foods, one among them being the iconic Dutch Letter pastry in Iowa. In the US, the pastry is found only in Iowa, around the towns of Pella and Orange City, thanks to Dutch immigration to the area in the mid-to-late 1800s (Orange City was actually founded by settlers from Pella). Jaarsma’s Bakery and Vander Ploeg Bakery, both in Pella, are particularly well-known for their Dutch Letters.

Dutch Letters in Pella Iowa

Dutch Letters in Pella, Iowa by Andy Langager

The sweet butter pastry is usually shaped like an “S” hence the “letter” part of the name, and it is filled with almond paste (though it can be made into other letters as well). Pastries in the shape of letters were noted in historical Dutch paintings, and the pastry in “stick” form are called banket, which are found throughout Holland (in letter form they are called letterbanket in Dutch). The pastry is traditionally consumed around the Christmas holidays, both in the US and abroad, especially the day before St. Nicholas’ Day, December 6th. Saveur has a recipe to make Dutch letters for yourself, and here’s a recipe from Pella Iowa in 1937.

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A Visit to Parson’s Chicken and Fish

Parson’s Chicken and Fish
2952 W. Armitage
Chicago, IL

Being out of the country off and on for nearly 2 years, we tend to be pretty far behind most food trends in Chicago. By the time we go to a restaurant, it has already been written up by everyone and their cousin. However, for once we are able to get somewhere before it has totally fallen off the radar. We had the fortune of visiting one of the hot spots of the summer (complete with outdoor patio): Parson’s Chicken and Fish. We arrived at Parson’s with two of our friends on a Thursday night, which we figured would be a slightly off hour. Fortunately we were right, and were able to get a table for 4 outdoors nearly right away.

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The atmospheric outdoor setting is a large part of Parson’s appeal. The restaurant itself was a former fast food joint, and only has a few booths. However, the outdoor area in back of the restaurant is pretty huge, and consists of semi-shared picnic tables with striped umbrellas, an open air bar, and whimsical strings of Christmas lights everywhere. The atmosphere is convivial, and there is even a ping pong table to keep you occupied if you wait (which you may have to on most nice nights).

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The menu itself is pretty focused, and consists mainly of Southern American classics, especially chicken and fish, as the name would imply. The fried chicken is billed as “Amish” and you can get it grilled or fried (of course we chose fried). The fried chicken, which we figured would be the showpiece of the restaurant, was in fact extremely delicious. The chicken had a savory, crispy cornmeal breading, and was fried to perfection, with a piping hot exterior and juicy interior. We ordered a bucket of chicken for the entire table to share ($24 for the bucket and toast), along with a helping of Texas toast (perhaps our eyes were bigger than our stomachs). The bucket contained about 12 pieces of chicken, and the chicken breasts were cut in half for easier eating – though they were somewhat difficult to identify.???????????????????????????????

We also ordered a basket of fried fish ($16 for 6), which we agreed was somewhat less successful than the fried chicken, and was pretty greasy. We also enjoyed the sides: hush puppies ($4) and ceviche ($10). The ceviche was Mexican style – with a tomato-y sauce – it was good but a somewhat small portion. The hush puppies were heartily enjoyed by all – they were particularly light and fluffy – also full of bacon pieces. We finished up our hearty country picnic with a slice of lemon curd and blueberry pie from the inimitable Bang Bang Pie Shop (the pie changes regularly), which was particularly excellent. With pie like that, we hope to visit the pie shop itself soon. Parson’s Chicken and Fish is a great place for a tasty meal on a nice day, and a large part of the charming experience is being outside. Better get there before fall!

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Asitane: Eating your way through Turkish history

Asitane
Kariye Camii Sokak No: 6
34240 Edirnekapi
Istanbul – Turkey

turkeyEvery once in a while a restaurant comes along that has a concept so intriguing, you have to try it. Asitane has come up with such a concept: using authentic, historical Turkish dishes spanning nearly 1000 years. Each dish has either been re-created from original Ottoman menus, or re-created from descriptions of dishes served at the time. Each dish on the extensive menu is given a date, which may seem gimmicky at first, but really works. The setting of Asitane is quaint and beautiful, and is located on the ground floor of a renovated old building. We were lucky enough to arrive on a pleasant day, so we decided to eat outdoors, though there is also extensive indoor seating.Asitane To start with, we got a sampler plate, which like all of the other items on the menu, was very reasonably priced. We were surprised that it was such a good deal for such a fine dining experience. The sampler plate included four dips (20 Turkish Lira, about $10): Ottoman Hums (1469/1471), Lor Cheese Blend (1898), Fava (no date on this), and a pounded cucumber salad (1844). The Hums was what we might consider hummus, with currants and pine nuts, the Lor was a spreadable mild cheese (much like ricotta) mixed with rosemary, peppers and tomatoes, and the fava bean dip was seasoned with dill. We also received a basket of bread to sop everything up.

AsitaneDip

We then tried what was perhaps our favorite dish of the day: ‘Toyga Aşı’ Summer Soup with Yogurt (14th century). The soup was served cool, with mint and olive oil drizzled on top. It was phenomenal! For an entree we chose “Mahmudiyye” with Dane-i Sarı (1539), stewed chicken with cinnamon, cloves and apricots garnished with Rezaki raisins and almonds. The dish was extremely flavorful, with a pleasing sweet taste that went with the saffron pilaf accompaniment.

AsitaneChicken

We highly enjoyed our meal at Asitane, adding even more to our opinion that Turkey has amazing food. To top it off, the setting was lovely, the service was pleasant and the price was extremely reasonable. We also forgot to mention that in addition to your server you will be attended to by the restaurant cat (see below) who likes to visit. To top it off, Asitane is right next to one of the major sights in Istanbul, the Chora Church (Kariye Kilisesi), even though it is a little bit outside of the historical center. If you visit Asitane you are sure to have an extremely unique dining experience you can not get anywhere else (unless you are a time traveler, of course).

AsitaneCat

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Carolina Ribs at 12 Bones Smokehouse

12 Bones
5 Riverside Drive
Asheville, NC

Once, M didn’t like BBQ ribs. Too many experiences with gristly, fatty, underwhelming spares and baby backs had led him to a life filled with pulled pork and brisket. Not that he was complaining – these are meals for the gods. But on a drive through Asheville, we decided to give ribs one more chance, at a widely praised smokehouse by the Asheville riverfront. A long story short: M likes ribs now. Loves ribs. Craves them. A slab of six ribs at 12 Bones (and nothing else, mind you) single-handedly changed his barbecue life. 12Bones Like any good rib place, 12 Bones does not give you much time: open only 11-4 on weekdays (or until the food runs out, whichever is first), by the time we arrived at 10:30 there was already a line. We were lucky to be early: there were multiple rub glazes to pick, and at the last minute, knowing the ribs were famous, M decided to opt for a standard 6-bones rack of brown sugar glaze. Among other potential choices was pineapple habanero, but we felt that could have been getting a little too playful if we wanted to get something traditional for our first time. 12BonesRibs There is something primordial about a rack of ribs that come out on an aluminum plate. No sides, no nothing else. And they did not need anything: the rack of ribs in the background of this photo were easily the best we have ever had – just amazing. Perfectly smoked, all the fat had melted away, leaving behind perfectly tender, well-seasoned, and artfully glazed rack of certified culinary cavemanliness. Extra points for the fun outdoor seating area! Meanwhile, as M was salivating over his rib plate, L was busy on her usual: pulled pork. It was good, but not memorable in comparison to the ribs. A solid, light smoke flavor with a sweet North Carolina vinegar sauce made for a worthy contribution to our meal. Between us, we split cornbread, macaroni and cheese, and cucumber salad as sides. But again, the star here is the ribs: if you have a chance to stop in Asheville, definitely pay a visit to 12 Bones.

A side note: while in Asheville, be sure to check out the city’s riverfront arts and antiques district! There is something about BBQ in North Carolina that attracts it to art. Where else can you find an 1960s Illinois Democratic Party pin for a dollar?

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Discovering Chester’s BBQ in Champaign, IL

Chester’s BBQ
302 S. Neil St. (In the parking lot of Tumble Inn)
Champaign, IL
Thursdays and Fridays only 5PM to close

We were jonesing for some BBQ while heading out of Champaign, IL. We didn’t want to have a sit-down meal at Urbana’s well-known Black Dog BBQ (which we have visited previously, and highly enjoyed); but we also weren’t willing to wait until we got back to Chicago (2.5 hours later) to eat at Smoque. In downtown Champaign, we drove past a trailer in the parking lot of the Tumble Inn bar with a hand-painted sign that said “Chester’s BBQ.” We figured we had to try it.

Chester's sign beckoned us in

Chester’s sign beckoned us in

We were disappointed at first, the trailer appeared to be open but empty, and me, with my official BBQ shirt on, had to wait around until the owner returned to the truck in 15 minutes. We used the time to settle on a menu selection: an order of the “Award-Winning Pulled Pork” and a side of what was called “Broccoli Slaw.” (total of $8 – a free side was included). The slaw was a mix of broccoli florettes, bacon, feta, cranberries, tossed in honey vinaigrette dressing. It definitely was an unorthodox side, but if you’d prefer there is also some classic slaw and potato salad.

The Menu at Chester's

The Menu at Chester’s

When the owner returned – we quickly ordered two pulled-pork sammies. The pulled pork was excellent. The smoke flavor was well-cultivated, and the meat stood very well on its own without any of the sauce (which you add yourself). We devoured it – flavorful, smoky, and addictive, on a bun that was so unnecessary we just used it to dip in the sauce. They change their sauce every week, and there are three levels of heat (mild, medium and hot). We went with the hot sauce, which had a little kick, but not too much; this week a fruity North Carolina style sauce with tomato and vinegar.

Chester's Pulled Pork sandwich and Broccoli slaw

Chester’s Pulled Pork sandwich and Broccoli slaw

Chester’s is a competition BBQ truck, and for now is only parked at the Tumble Inn after 5 PM on Fridays and Saturdays, but it’s definitely worth the wait. Chester’s was just as good, if not better, than Black Dog – we hope they can expand their operation in Chambana, because the area could always use another great BBQ option. Chester’s is a great hidden spot we hope won’t stay hidden for long.

Chester's Pulled Pork sandwich - ready for a closeup

Chester’s Pulled Pork sandwich – ready for a closeup

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