Category Archives: Reviews

Splurge: Jamón Ibérico de Bellota at the Mercado San Miguel, Madrid

spainM arrived at the Mercado de San Miguel with a single goal: eat jamón ibérico de bellota. “Iberian Acorn Ham” is the name given to the finest quality Spanish jamón, a fiercely protected product produced through a painstaking process. Black Iberian pigs, living in southern and southwest Spain close to the Portuguese border, freely roam oak groves consuming little besides acorns. Their hams are left to dry for weeks, and cured for another twelve months or more. The result is what is universally considered the finest jamón on the peninsula, if not the planet. The price definitely matches the quality – but it is worth it.

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At the Mercado de San Miguel, most patrons get their jamón from a stall featuring Carrasco Guijuelo. The company was founded 120 years ago by the Carrasco family in the tiny town of Guijuelo (Salamanca province, on the border with Portugal). Now a protected designation of origin product, Carrasco Guijuelo now enjoys a major share of the Spanish domestic market, as well as running an enviable export business (but we all know the keep the good stuff). They also produce a lot of other food products.

While the standard jamón is a big seller, I splurged and got the 50 grams of the finest-quality Reserva, priced at 18.5 euros for 100 grams – or $111.13 per pound. The eight slices in this photograph – my total order – were priced at 9.25 euros (although, full disclosure, they accidentally charged me the price for the standard, at 16.5 euros/kilo. I did not correct the error).

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We write many words on this blog, but there are simply none that can effectively describe the taste of a perfectly prepared and cured jamón ibérico. The ham is so finely cured that it when sliced, it looks like a wax copy of an actual ham, each slice retaining a light sheen that catches the light of the room. The sheen may is from the fat, which while visually obvious, may as well not exist when eaten. The fat all but liquefies on your tongue, melding with the muscle and acorns in a salty/sweet/nutty flavor profile that is subtle yet precise. Jamón ibérico de bellota is a food that, while you eat it, composes a most beautiful poem about its own taste, and you are more than willing to sit there and have that poem read to you over and over again. By the time I was done, I was ready to pull another ten euros out of my pocket for another 50 grams. If you ever have the chance to get some, don’t pass it up.

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Delicious, Unique Tacos in Wicker Park: Antique Taco

Antique Taco
1360 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Chicago, IL

The thing we miss most when abroad is Mexican food, so we feel lucky to have so many options practically in our backyard. We tend to enjoy hole-in-the wall spots so we decided to get out of our comfort zone and try one of the newer, more trendy taco places that were getting rave reviews. Fortunately, we found that Antique Taco lived up to the hype. When you first step into Antique Taco, you immediately understand where it gets its name – the entire restaurant is full of antique tchotchkes, baskets as light fixtures and reclaimed woods, which makes it immediately appealing.

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The menu at Antique Taco is small and rotating. On the day we visited there were six varieties of taco, including one vegetarian option. We ordered the market mushroom taco, with pepitas, guajillo cream, arugula and radish; the pork carnitas with bacon, spinach and avocado; and the garlic shrimp with corn salsa, avocado and onion. The prices, at $7 and $8 per taco basket, which includes 2 tacos, are certainly higher than many other taco joints. But don’t let that put you off, you definitely get what you pay for.

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There is indoor and outdoor seating, and since it was nice we decided to grab a picnic table. We also ordered a basket of chips and guacamole ($7) while we were waiting, which came out instantly, and was immediately gobbled up. The tacos came out fairly quickly after the guac. Everything that arrived at the table was fresh and clearly homemade. In all of the tacos, the ingredients really worked together, and none of the toppings were out of place. The pork carnitas had a hint of sweetness from the tamarind glaze and seemed more akin to BBQ than real carnitas, which was still delicious. The garlic shrimp were perfectly complemented by the corn salsa, and the mushroom taco was pleasingly meaty. Only one drawback, some of the filling portions were a little inconsistent, the shrimp was a little skimpy, while there was a ton of pork shoulder.

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M also ordered the horchata milkshake ($4), a riff on the classic Mexican drink with rice, cinnamon and almond, which was delicious (and gave us a good idea for a paleta). Though it is not a fancy restaurant, Antique Taco stands out for doing little touches right: the combinations are unique, the drinks come with retro striped paper straws and each taco plate has a little wooden pick with the variety printed on it. We definitely appreciated this attention to detail. We will definitely be back, hopefully sitting at the picnic tables.

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La Mi Venta, Excellent Tapas in Madrid

La Mi Venta
Plaza de la Marina Española, 7
28013 Madrid, Spain

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On our short trip to Madrid we wanted to cram in as much food fun as possible. We had previously experienced the frenetic market scene of San Miguel, and we wanted to take things a little slower for our second foray into Madrid tapas. Spaniards do not eat dinner until 9-10 PM at the earliest, so tapas serves as a kind of happy hour snack, where you can drink, have some munchies and meet with friends. However, Americans tend to buck this tradition and make tapas more of a meal. Alas, so did we, as we found ourselves famished at the odd-for-any-nation hour of 3 PM. In Spain lunch may even run as late as 2:30 or so, so I guess we fell into the late lunch crowd rather than the geriatric early-bird crowd.

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The specialty at Li Mi Venta is tapas (along with a limited selection of main courses). The tiny restaurant consists of a bar and a back room with a few tall tables. You could get most of the offerings in a large portion or as a tapa – so depending on how hungry you are you can either try many different little plates or stock up on a favorite. We decided to go with a variety of meat and vegetables. And of course M could not resist getting his hands on some more rare and delicious Jamon Iberico. As another meat dish we sampled was spicy chorizo “from hell” (how could we skip it), and migas, one of the more unusual offerings, a composed plate of fried breadcrumbs, peppers and chorizo. We were shocked by the reasonable prices – everything was under 3 euros.

La Mi Venta Tapas

La Mi Venta Tapas: (clockwise) Migas, Tuna, Jamon, Manchego and Tortilla.

However, not all of our selections were so carnivorous. We also ordered the manchego cheese, which was excellent (but not as good as in the market). M’s favorite selection was the Tuna bocadillo with tomato confit, a delicate combination that really worked well. L also enjoyed the Spanish Tortilla (potato omelette), and could have gone for another slice or two. To finish our tapas “meal” off we decided to end on a paradoxically healthy note: Salted tomatoes in olive oil (8€). Such a simple dish – but it was extremely tasty and refreshing. The portion was also extremely generous, justifying the higher price.

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M’s Favorite – Tuna and Tomato Confit.

In addition to tapas, there was a nice selection of teas and coffees that came served in little silver pots. They also had free wifi, though that seemed a little incongruous with the other offerings. We also appreciated the friendly and attentive waitstaff and the pleasant ambiance. It’s almost as if you are eating in a private wine cave – it would definitely be a great place to have a small party (maybe someday). La Mi Venta was a welcoming place with a great selection of fresh, well-prepared tapas. For less than 30 euros we were full for the entire day!

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A giant plate of tomatoes – simple but delicious.

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Traditional Spanish pastries at La Mallorquina in Madrid

La Mallorquina
Calle Mayor, 2
Madrid, Spain

spainA seemingly endless window display of beautiful pastries, cakes and candies first entices you in to La Mallorquina. Taking the opportunity to have a weekend brunch and try some new-to-us pastries in the process, we quickly entered. The bakery was packed to the gills, it looked like half of Madrid had the same idea for brunch! La Mallorquina’s bottom floor is a traditional bakery, with stand-up counters where patrons quickly enjoy coffee and a sweet. The full tea room is located upstairs with tile floors and wooden tables. “La Mallorquina” means the little woman from Mallorca, and is also the same name of a famous old cafe in Puerto Rico (no relation). The Madrid cafe was established in 1894, and looks like it hasn’t stopped churning out treats since.

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La Mallorquina had a huge selection of baked goods, cakes, sandwiches and coffee drinks, and you can order anything in the tea room that is in the front counter. The selection was nearly overwhelming, but we went in with a few recommendations (the chocolate napolitana is a specialty, as are the rosquilla rolls). We were interested to see some of our favorite treats that are popular in Puerto Rico: mallorca and ensaimada. We went to the bakery around Christmas time, so Christmas favorites like Turron were also on offer. 

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We made our way up to the tea room and were lucky enough to find a spot. We picked an apple tart, a Napolitana and ensaimada. The ensaimada is a rich brioche roll, which was perfect with butter and the apple tart was fresh and had a sweet glaze. However, the chocolate Napolitana was definitely the star of the show, think a rich croissant filled with chocolate custard. Of course, to complement our brunch we had a cappuccino and some chocolate milk (we also hear the orange juice is excellent). Given the sheer variety, there were so many selections we wish we could have tried. The torrija, a Spanish take on french toast looks amazing. If you are looking for a classic Spanish pastry experience, this is definitely the place. Just be prepared for a crowd!

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Filipino Ice Cream in Chicagoland: Village Creamery

Village Creamery
4558 Oakton Street
Skokie, IL

In honor of National Ice Cream Month, here’s another post about one of our favorite topics. We here at ETW are huge fans of ice cream, but it takes a lot to wow us. Village Creamery, is one place we were pretty impressed by, and the sheer variety of unique flavors was a real treat. Many are inspired by Filipino flavors such as Mangosteen and Lychee and others by American treats, such as those made with Girl Scout cookies or Donut pieces. The variety is truly astounding. If you don’t believe us, check out this complete flavor list on their website. Of course if you are in the mood for a more simple Vanilla or Mint Chocolate chip, Village Creamery has those, too.

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All of the ice creams are home made and the rotation of flavors varies from day to day. On the day we visited they had such eclectic flavors as Cheese (!), Crème brulee, Durian, Jackfruit and Halo-Halo Fiesta, a riff on a popular Filipino dessert. We figured the halo-halo was a good choice, so we ordered one cup, along with a cup of the more typical Mint Chip. The Halo Halo flavor consisted of vanilla ice cream with banana, pineapple gel, coconut gel, red beans, white beans, and Rice Krispies. Though the combination seems quite unusual, it really worked. Our friends that ordered more traditional flavors were also pleased. Along with simple scoops, Village Creamery also offers a range of sundaes, milkshakes, malts and even bubble tea. We highly recommend Village Creamery for your more idiosyncratic ice cream cravings and it is one of our favorite places in the burbs for a treat (there is also a location in Niles).

VillageCreamery

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Cheese at Brick Street Market in Delavan, WI

Brick Street Market
104 E Walworth Ave
Delavan, WI 53115

We took a little trip to Lake Geneva this past weekend to get away from the hustle and bustle of Chicago. We hit up our usual haunts, but are happy to report we found somewhere new (to us). We were going to our favorite antique store in nearby Delavan, WI (where we found some interesting postcards and stereograph slides), when we spotted Brick Street Market, right across from Delavan’s signature giraffe statue.

Brick Street Market Cheese Cooler

Brick Street Market Cheese Cooler

The front of the store is given over to a cheese cooler, along with a cute seating area. In the back there is a little wine cellar with an international selection of wines, along with other cheese related products (knives, boards, etc), coffee, jam and mustard. There is also a well-curated menu, including a selection of excellent-looking sandwiches, salads and a selection of cheese plates. 

Brick Street Market Cheese Flight

Brick Street Market Cheese Flight

A small cheese plate is only $3.50, but we opted for the heartier Single Cheese Flight ($9). While advertised as serving 1-2 persons, it easily served both of us for lunch. The staff selects the cheeses for you. Our plate included Manchego from León, Spain, Wisconsin-made Holland’s Herbed Gouda, and Hook’s Little Boy Blue sheep’s milk cheese. We also received crackers, quince jam, dried fruit and nuts, a bit of local raw honey for the blue cheese, and a delicious local salami from nearby Milwaukee. We were completely astounded at the quality of these cheese plate for a mere 9 dollars! Everything was completely delicious, and it was one of the most well-composed cheese plates we had recently, at any price.

Brick Street Market

Brick Street Market

On our way out we bought some 4-year aged Hook’s white cheddar to take home (our old favorite from the Dane County Farmer’s Market in Madison). Now after our travels, we are a pretty jaded bunch, but we felt more pleased after our visit to Brick Market than most of our recent trips. We have to go back very soon.

Delavan Giraffe

Delavan Giraffe

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Alternative Swedish Prinsesstårta (Princess Cake) Recipes

sweden_flagIn an earlier post we wrote about Sweden’s iconic multi-layered Princess Cake (Prinsesstårta) – which seems equally delicious and daunting. Swedish Prinsesstårta was the May 2013 challenge for Daring Bakers, an online baking group, and the result was a lot of delicious-sounding takes on this tricky tart. May Daring Bakers Host Korena in the Kitchen has a very thorough description of how to make the cakes, for those of you that want to go traditional. Alternative versions include: Prinsesstårta cupcakes, Strawberry-Oreo Prinsesstårta, and Green Tea Prinsesstårta, among others.  

Prinsesstarta diagram

Prinsesstarta diagram from Baking Obsession– complicated!

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Moqueca at Terra Brasil in Salvador Shopping

Terra Brasil
Av Tancredo Neves, 2915 Piso L3 – Salvador Shopping
Salvador, Bahia, Brazil

brazilWe are not ones to go to the mall very often, but on a terribly rainy day in Salvador we decided it might be fun to go to Salvador Shopping, considered the most luxurious mall in the city. Coincidentally, its food court also houses Terra Brasil, one of the highest rated restaurants on Trip Advisor for Moquecas. Since the moqueca came pretty highly recommended, we decided we would give it a try, even though the food court location made us a little wary. Sure enough, there it was in a large corner location, though for what is worth, it had a more of a botequim environment, and was partially enclosed. 

Terra Brasil

Terra Brasil in Salvador Shopping

The menu at Terra Brasil is primarily northeastern Brazilian food. On this day, they had a lunch special where all moquecas for two (with the choice of shrimp, fish or vegetarian) were only R$48, which is a pretty reasonable price. Other options include German sausages (R$ 38) and Casquinha de siri, a crabmeat gratin baked in a crab shell, (R$ 16) as well as a wide variety of empadas and of course the ever-important Chopp (draft beer). Our moqueca came out pretty quickly, served on a hot stone, which we have found out is a very good sign for some quality moqueca.  The moqueca was on the small side, and we made pretty quick work of it. Overall, we were pleased that the shrimp in the moqueca were some of the best we had at any restaurant! For sides there were farofa, Bobó de Camarão (an atypical side dish for a moqueca in Bahia) and rice. M had to ask for extra pimenta to spice things up a little bit. The flavors were good, but a little mild.

Moqueca at Terra Brasil

Moqueca at Terra Brasil

Overall, the moqueca was very good, but perhaps a little overrated as one of the top bowls in the entire city. The setting alone does leave a little bit to be desired, and we’re not sure if eating a moqueca next to a Bob’s Burgers and a KFC is the most “Salvador” experience that visitors hope for. On the other hand, if you find yourself at the city’s biggest mall on a rainy day, hungry, why not?

 

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A Visit to the Argyle Night Market

We wrote last week about our visit to the Argyle night market, a brand new weekly event in the Argyle neighborhood of Chicago, known for its Vietnamese and Chinese culture. We decided to visit the fair on its opening night, and its second installation is this upcoming Thursday, July 11 from 4 to 8 PM.

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The fair itself was only a block long, which was a little smaller than we imagined, running on Argyle street from Sheridan to Kenmore. There were at least a dozen stalls, featuring mostly food and snacks. On that note, there was also a feature M especially enjoyed – a whole roast pig on a spit. Beyond the food, there was a face painting booth and activities like a Bean Bag Toss for children. The day we visited there was a dragon dance scheduled, but it seemed to have been delayed due to the intermittent rain (note the umbrellas).

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Many local favorites had set up shop: one booth sold sandwiches from perennial favorite Ba Le, and prepared dishes from Hai Yen. Tai Nam Market, a local grocery store, sold various items, including sweetened dried plantains and mango, sauces and Vietnamese candy. Local tofu producer Phoenix bean tofu sold fresh tofu and soy milk.

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Though the majority of stalls were Asian there were some international treats – especially for dessert. One of our favorites was the Brazilian Beijo de Chocolat, who sold brigadeiros, along with other American baked goods like cookies and muffins (some were even gluten-free). Another sweet treat came from Uptown Brownie, with their assortment of gourmet brownies. Overall, we think Argyle Market is off to a great start, we are sure it will gain followers as the summer goes on (and hopefully if the weather cooperates). We hope to be back soon!

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Eating Cheap and Well in Jardim América, São Paulo

brazilThe area southwest of Avenida Paulista in São Paulo, bordered on the west by Avenida Rebouças and on the east by Avenida Nove de Julho, encompassing the neighborhoods of Jardim América and Cerqueira César, is one of the swankiest and most upscale neighborhoods in the Americas. It is home to São Paulo’s finest restaurants – i.e., some of the finest restaurants in the hemisphere – and thus is a must for any foodie. Yet this high concentration of culinary awesomeness comes with an annoying tradeoff: eating there can be exorbitantly expensive. But, determined eaters as we are, we did some exploring and came up with a tasty, cheap snack itinerary for those of you wanting to explore the area without breaking your wallet.

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Street art in Jardim America

Start out at Casa Bauducco (Alameda Lorena, 1682), a well-known Italian bakery famous for their Panettone. Sample the wide variety of cookies and pastries available, but do yourself a favor and get a fresh slice of chocottone (chocolate panettone, R$5.80), heated with cinnamon and sugar on top. The recipe supposedly takes over 40 hours to make, and you can taste every bit of effort in that chocottone.

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Casa Bauducco

A few blocks away, continue with the Italian trend and cool off your mouth with a few scoops of the finest gelato in Brazil at  Bacio di Latte (Rua Bela Cintra, 1829). Get a grande size for R$12, and up to three flavors. We recommend the maracujá (passionfruit) and negrissimo (super dark chocolate) flavors, especially in combination. Be sure to sit on one of the converted milk jugs as seats.

If you need a little relaxation time, take a load off in the excellent book selection and beanbag chairs at the famous Livraria da Vila (Alameda Lorena, 1731), where you can admire the famous bookshelf-doors while sipping a coffee or cappuccino at their cafe and wondering why anyone would pay R$ 10 to valet a car at a bookstore.

Still hungry? Walk south to the unassuming Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo (Rua Haddock Lobo, 1408), serving up the best cheese bread in the city, if not the country. If you have time, wait for a fresh batch to come out: you will get the most for your R$4.50, which is worth it [full review here].

Having had your fill of cheese bread,finish up your explorations by deciding what other flavors could entice you at Folie (Cristiano Viana, 295), purveyor of excellent French macarons. Choose from Brazilian-inspired flavors, including brigadeiro and beijinho; or go with something even more inventive, such as drink-themed macarons with flavors like Gin & Tonic and Green Tea.

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Q Bar: see and be seen in Rio de Janeiro

Q Bar
Rua Dias Ferreira 617
Leblon, Rio de Janeiro

brazilQ Bar is a place to see and be seen – it’s no surprise it has been earning accolades from the international press, and attracting a cosmopolitan clientele. M’s father read about it a magazine as a bar that was a “must try,” so we figured it would be fun for a night on the town. This was a big change for us since we are usually more likely to be found in corner lanchonetes or old school cafes than anyplace favored by trendy Rio denizens. Happily, contrary to many “scene-y” places – the service at Q Bar was actually excellent, which we found to be exceedingly rare in Rio (and Brazil in general). Q bills itself as a “gastrobar,” and the focus is on small plates and creative cocktails. One of their most famous cocktails is the “Rocket Collins” – a Tom Collins with the addition of arugula, making it a shade of bright green $12 (R$ 23).

Q Bar in Leblon

Q Bar in Leblon

The menu at Q Bar is eclectic and internationally-inspired, and seemed similar to places we had been in Chicago. In fact Q Bar would probably be at home in many cities around the world. For starters we had fried goat cheese salad, and frankly, what salad ISN’T better with goat cheese? Keeping with that feeling, L had truffle goat cheese mac and cheese gnocchi, which came baked in a miniature cast iron skillet. The tiny skillet was a cute touch, and the mac and cheese itself was creamy and delicious, and not at all overwhelmed by truffle flavor. M ordered a deconstructed moqueca – a nod to our upcoming trip to Salvador – which was a moqueca risotto with shrimp and a filet of fish. The risotto was very well cooked, with a moqueca’s signature palm oil flavor, and the fish filet was excellent. M’s parents ordered the signature Q Burger and tuna tartare with caviar, both of which they heartily enjoyed.

Moqueca Risotto at Q Bar

Moqueca Risotto at Q Bar

Visiting Q Bar was a nice change of pace, and it is a great place to bring your international guests. Even if you are not a scenester (as we are not), you definitely feel cool eating your small plates on Q’s fun outdoor patio, in an already-buzzing street full of chic restaurants. Many of the servers spoke English, which is not common in Rio, and would likely make non-Portuguese guests feel more comfortable. Beware though, the prices are a little steep, with many entrees over $25 (R$ 50). However, if you are looking for a big city dining experience that is much more cosmopolitan than a boteco, Q Bar is your place.

Fried Goat Cheese Salad at Q Bar - everything IS better with goat cheese

Fried Goat Cheese Salad at Q Bar – everything IS better with goat cheese

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The best gelato in São Paulo: Bacio di Latte

Bacio di Latte
(4 Locations) We visited: Rua Bela Cintra 1829
São Paulo, Brazil

In addition to having the best pizza in Brasil, due to the proliferation of Italian influence in São Paulo, there is also some of the best gelato in Brasil. Bacio di Latte (“Milk Kiss” in Italian) has been receiving accolades for their gelato, so we had to visit an outpost while we were in São Paulo. We visited the location in Jardim America, definitely the “Upper East Side” of São Paulo. Everything is expensive and beautiful – including the food. Bacio di Latte follows the neighborhood trend, with a brand new, big, flashy store, with a nice outdoor cafe area. To order, you pay at the cashier first (like at Giolitti), and then make your way over to the luminous gelato counter to select your flavors. Obviously, everyone is there for the gelato, but they also have some baked goods and coffee drinks.

BaciodiLatteInterior

Bacio di Latte Interior

Bacio di Latte had all the telltale signs of good gelato: it is made in-house (you can barely get a peek of people making gelato in the kitchen), no neon colors, and no artificially air-whipped peaks. We were also excited to see that there were no less than five flavors of chocolate on offer. To order you select your size: it is R$ 8 for a small (up to 2 flavors) R$ 10 for a medium (up to 3 flavors) and R$ 12 for a large (up to 3). The flavor selection is overwhelming, but fortunately you can ask for small samples of any flavor including Zabaglione, Doce de Leite, Guava, and Pistachio, among others. You may have to brush up on your Italian to interpret some of the flavors (the complete list is online).

Bacio di Latte

Bacio di Latte Milk Cream, Dark Chocolate and Passion Fruit

From our time in Italy consuming as much gelato as humanly possible, we settled on the following flavor combination that we felt gave us maximum gelato enjoyment: a dark chocolate variety, a fruit variety, and something with a cream or vanilla base for contrast. We went with this strategy and got the dark, dark chocolate Nerissimo, passion-fruit and the Bacio di Latte milk cream with Nutella chunks. Every flavor was outstanding and the gelato’s texture was excellent. The dark chocolate was really dark chocolate – which we love. The “Bacio di Latte” ice cream flavor also reminded us of the “Cereal Milk” flavor from Momofuku Milk Bar that really tastes like cereal! The passion fruit flavor has more of a sorbet texture, but the favor was amazing. As we sat on our milk pails that doubled as counter stools, we couldn’t believe we devoured our gelato so quickly (though that always seems to happen). It may not have been quite as good as Italy, but it was pretty darn close, and we know we would be visiting Bacio di Latte frequently if we lived in São Paulo.

Bacio di Latte Chocolate Flavors

The many Bacio di Latte Chocolate Flavors

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A Place for Spices in Rio de Janeiro: Casas Pedro

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The Saara neighborhood is one of our favorite areas in Rio. It is a great place to shop for anything under the sun, people watch, and get a bite to eat on a sunny afternoon. The name “Saara” is rumored to derive from the word “Sahara,” an explanation that has entered into the public lore of Rio. Nowadays, the area is mostly given over to selling clothes, home goods, party/Carnaval supplies and any kind of bric-a-brac you would ever want (there is an entire store dedicated to Tupperware, for example). However, there are a few places in Saara that do specialize in Middle Eastern spices and foods. Our favorite, Casas Pedro, has several branches are sprinkled throughout Rio, including 3 in the Saara. You can get nearly any spice you could imagine at Casas Pedro, several kinds of cinnamon, tumeric, coriander, cumin, along with nuts, dried fruit, chocolate chips and other oddities (even baking soda) sold by weight. You can also find “Pao Sirio” a kind of flatbread popular in Brazil, tahini paste, honey and other Middle Eastern packaged goods. If you are feeling hungry, a counter sells meat and cheese esfihas to go. 

Casas Pedro in Rio

Casas Pedro in Rio

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Our favorite Acarajé in Rio de Janeiro: Cida Acarajé at Largo do Carioca

brazilAcarajé, a bean fritter fried in palm oil and filled with various toppings is one of the iconic foods of Brazil. We were spoiled for choice by the cheap and plentiful acarajé options in Bahia, where acarajé is most commonly found, (a complete Salvador acarajé post is coming soon). However, we are happy to report we found a great and centrally located acarajé spot in Rio de Janerio as well. Right in the bustling Largo do Carioca in Centro, Cida Acarajé sets up shop every weekday at around 12:30. It’s a pretty big production, so we are always impressed that it seems to pop up out of nowhere every day at lunchtime.

Cida Acaraje in Largo do Carioca

Cida Acaraje in Largo do Carioca

An acarajé at Cida costs R$ 9 without dried shrimp, which is highway robbery by Bahian standards, but is largely in keeping with Rio’s generally inflated prices.  However, this was actually some pretty good acarajé, so we were prepared to shell out a little extra money for one of our favorite Bahian treats. The acarajé are made fresh to order in a giant vat of dendê (palm oil) – which is absolutely imperative to a good acarajé experience. As far as places in Rio go, we definitely preferred Cida’s acarajé to the one we had previously sampled at the Feira Hippie in Ipanema (another high profile location).

Acaraje in Dende

Acaraje Frying up in Dende Oil

The acarajé was perfectly fresh and we enjoyed the good renditions of the traditional acarajé fillings: vatapá, caruru and salada. M also appreciated the spicy sauce with a nice kick. If you are going for the full authentic experience you must also top the acarajé with dried shrimp (though we are on the fence if we actually prefer this). In addition to acarajé, there were various chocolate and coconut cakes by the slice, cocadas and even small puddings baked right in a coconut shell. This was our friend M’s first venture into acarajé and we are happy to report that she heartily enjoyed it. Another Brazilian food convert won over!

Cida Acaraje

The finished Acaraje with all the fixins

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Delicious Kibbe in Salvador: Kiberia

Kiberia
Barão de Itapuã, 145
Salvador – Bahia

brazilWe had some good kibbe (fried Middle-Eastern bulgar-and-meat meatballs) in Rio. But this tiny little counter in Salvador blew them away. You can’t miss Kiberia’s signature neon orange building, tiny as the restaurant itself may be. There are maybe only four seats in counter space in Kiberia, and the take-out trade is brisk. With three people in there it was a full house! The menu truly is limited, and all you can order are several permutations of kibbe and bottled or canned drinks. The cost for a kibbe (500 grams) is a surprisingly reasonable R$ 6. Another option is to get 6 mini-kibbe for R$ 12.

Kiberia in Salvador, Bahia

Kiberia in Salvador, Bahia

In the larger size, you can get a plain meat kibbe or one with cheese added (paradoxically this one is slightly cheaper and smaller). As kibbe purists, we went for just plain meat. The kibbe were fried up to order, and came to us piping hot, even garnished with a wedge of lime. The shape of the kibbe was not too overly-footballish, as we were accustomed to seeing in Rio. The outside was perfectly crisp and crunchy, and the bulgar and meat inside was tender and moist. We also appreciated the wide range of dressings set up on Kiberia’s counter: tahini, sriracha, malagueta pepper, tabasco, Molho Arabe and garlic sauce, among others.

We ate our kibbe so quickly, we were not able to get any pictures. Even after devouring our kibbe, we decided to go for a dessert. The only choice was a Belewa (spelled elsewhere as Beleua), for R$ 3. Beleua is a riff on baklava, but definitely not as sweet, and is composed of a spiced nut paste in layered puff pastry sheets. Like our kibbe, the beleua was delicious. We went into Kiberia expecting only a fast food fix, but we heartily recommend them for some great kibbe in Salvador.

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Bobó de Camarão in Rio de Janeiro

Bobo de Camarao

Bobó de Camarão

We heard from a friend that one of the best renditions of the classic Bahian dish “Bobó de Camarão” in Rio was found at Marinho Azul (Av. Francisco Bhering s/n, Arpoador, Rio de Janeiro). Marinho Azul overlooks Arpoador beach, basically a rock outcropping that is the dividing line between Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, and you have a niced view of the Ipanema side. Marinho Azul (Marine Blue) unsurprisingly sells primarily seafood dishes, in straightforward preparations as well as regional favorites. The Bobó de Camarão (R$ 98 for 2 people) is a sort of stewed dish made from pureed cassava, dendê oil and shrimp. The term “Bobó” is used to refer to any dish thickened with cassava, a type of dish that originated in Africa. Unlike moqueca, which has coconut milk as a base, the cassava makes a bobó a lot thicker. We thought their rendition was very good for Rio, but Bahians would definitely blush at the price (and it is worth noting that the service is more than a little brusque). However, you can’t beat the location, and we lingered over our food to enjoy the view. Though we have tried our hand at moqueca, we have never made a bobó; but we like the look of these recipes from Cuca Brazuca, Maria-Brasil and Flavors of Brasil.

Ipanema Beach and Dois Irmaos

Stay for the view: Ipanema Beach and Dois Irmãos

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The Best Pizza in Rio de Janeiro: Bráz Pizzaria

Bráz Pizzaria
R. Maria Angélica, 129
Jardim Botânico  Rio de Janeiro

brazilPizza has taken on a life of its own in Brazil, and you can find a place to get a pie on nearly every corner in every town in the country. Though we have previously documented how Brazilian pizza is a little different, there are some Brazilian pizzarias that adhere to more of a traditional Italian style, and Bráz is one of them. Most of the outlets of Bráz are in São Paulo, the epicenter for high-quality pizza in Brazil, though now there is a location in Rio. Bráz is often honored as one of the best pizza places in Brazil by publications in the US and across Rio de Janeiro and Brazil. We visited the Bráz Pizzaria on the restaurant row of Rua Maria Angélica, near the Lagoa, and we are happy to report that it is now our favorite place for pizza in the city.

Braz Pizzaria

The Interior of Bráz Pizzaria, Rio de Janeiro

The Rio outpost of Bráz is brand spanking new, though it has been deliberately made with an old school flair, with white subway tiled walls and exposed brick. Naturally, the only thing to order at Bráz is the pizza. There are a wide variety of topping choices, from traditional Margherita and Four Cheese, to more unique specialties of the house (there are probably over 30 varieties in all). The house specialties included some with distinctively Brazilian flavors including the “Primo” with the Brazilian Caqui fruit (similar to a very sweet tomato), mozzarella and prosciutto. The “Tacchino” includes smoked turkey and Brazilian pizza staple, Catupiry cheese.

Braz Pizzaria Slice

Vai-Vai Pizza slice (somewhere under the arugula)

In addition to pizza, we ordered a Burrata appetizer, which was produced in Puglia, Italy. The cheese was very good, but did not compare to those we had in Naples (seeing as it was shipped over, I guess. We’re spoiled!) All pizzas came in a small, medium and large size. For our main course, we ordered two medium pizzas for four people – which was just the right amount (no leftovers). The first pizza was the tradicional “Calabresa” pizza, with olives, pepperoni and onion. The second pizza was the Especialidade “Vai-Vai” (named after our favorite São Paulo samba school) with arugula, sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella. The pizzas at Bráz have a thin crust, with a slightly chewy bite, maybe just a little thicker than traditional Neapolitan pizzas. Both pizzas we ordered were generously topped, and all of the ingredients were fresh. However, be forewarned that everything you order will come with a LOT of said toppings, so you had better like onions or arugula.

Braz Pizzaria Slice

Calabresa Pizza Slice

For dessert we got a brownie a la mode (perhaps not the most adventurous choice) and a gelato. But we were a little surprised by the gelato – it came out as a wrapped Popsicle, not as a scoop in a bowl. As a final note, though the interior of Bráz was entirely pleasant, their bathrooms were a standout – each of the men’s and woman’s had its own private sitting area and outdoor garden. An outdoor garden with a fountain is definitely not something you see in a restroom every day. We greatly enjoyed our visit to Braz, it was definitely some of the best pizza we’ve had in Brazil, if not THE best. Even pizza aficianados from São Paulo would have to agree.

Braz Brownie A la Mode

Braz Brownie A la Mode

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A romantic night out at Zazá Bistrô Tropical in Rio de Janeiro

Zazá Bistrô Tropical
Rua Joana Angélica, 40
Ipanema – Rio de Janeiro

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Though we thrive on Açaí bowls and Acarajé, sometimes we want to visit someplace a little fancier. To celebrate L’s birthday we decided to gussy up and visit Zazá Bistrô Tropical in the heart of Ipanema, voted as one of the most romantic restaurants in Rio. You will notice the restaurant in its prominent corner spot right away – it is painted brightly blue and festooned with lights, giving you a clue to the eclectic decor inside.

Zaza Bistro

Zazá Bistrô

When you enter Zazá Bistrô you are immediately struck by the whimsical décor – the walls are brightly painted and covered in artifacts (we especially enjoyed the altars on the first floor). There are two floors in the tiny restaurant – the first has bistro tables and a bar, and the second floor was decorated in a Moroccan style – with low tables and throw pillows. Zazá is also known for its unique bar menu – featuring a number of flavored Margaritas and Caipirinhas. The electric décor and menu also attracts an intentional crowd. We were seated near a veritable United Nations of diners: Brazilians, English, French, Argentines and Germans. Also appealing to the international clientele, there is both an English and Portuguese Menu.

Zaza Bistro Altars

Zazá Bistrô Altars

The menu is eclectic as the décor, with a variety of Brazilian dishes with Southeast Asian touches. We enjoyed the cover: a basket of potato, manioc and sweet potato chips with wasabi yogurt sauce and tomato salsa (R$ 18). The international influence began with appetizers – which included Indian samosas and Moroccan chicken pastillas. For main courses, there was a wide variety of eclectic dishes, featuring seafood heavily. After a period of perusal, we ordered the mixed seafood ceviche with mangoes and green coconut curry (R$ 29) and the seared prawn and lemon risotto (R$ 65). A close runner up was the organic curry chicken (R$ 48) with coconut milk, lime, ginger and banana. Both of the dishes were flavorful and mixed Brazilian and Asian flavors elegantly, though the portions were slightly small. Vegetarians will also be happy to know there are several meat and seafood-free options.

ZazaRisotto

Zazá Risotto with mood lighting

For dessert there are a variety of house-made choices – we couldn’t resist the “Devil’s” chocolate cake (R$ 18), which was composed of a bittersweet chocolate souffle with a crunchy topping, accompanied with lemon sorbet. The rich chocolate cake, along with a little cafezinho was a perfect end to a night out. The food was tasty – but the lovely atmosphere, especially on the candle-lit second floor – completely made the night. Our evening at Zazá Bistrô was relaxed and delicious, and  we definitely recommend it for those looking for a fun (but still relatively reasonable) night on the town.

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Açaí in Salvador: Cometa Açaí

Cometa Açaí
Rua Miguel Bournier, Barra
Salvador, Bahia, Brasil

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Cometa Açaí is a little different from most juice shops in Salvador – and certainly a lot newer – we remember it was under construction last year when we were in Salvador, and this year it is clean, bright and open for business. Cometa is definitely a little more upscale than neighboring açaí places in Salvador, and we appreciated the spacious, open seating area, which was raised above the sidewalk. This feature allows you to avoid sidewalk traffic and parked cars (unlike the other places on Rua Miguel Bournier). The menu is typical of the other juice shops in the area with Açaí bowls and assorted juices, though there is also a little selection of sandwiches and even some temaki sushi rolls (for R$12-18) though ordering sushi at a juice bar is maybe a little weird.

Cometa Acai Interior

Cometa Açaí Interior

Value: 4/5 Our 400 mL bowl of açaí was a respectable R$8.90, with no extra charge for granola. You pay a little extra for strawberries or bananas.

Taste: 12/15. This was more of a Para-style açaí, with a little more sweetness. Overall, we have decided we like this flavor profile a little more than the super-sweet Rio variety.

Texture: 8/10. Overall this açaí was pretty smooth, but had hints of icy graininess that could have been improved.

Granola: 5/5. We received the standard Tia Sonia granola that you get in Salvador – but we didn’t have to pay for it!

Extras: 5/5. Though you don’t have much of a view – this was our favorite seating in all of Salvador (at least so far). It’s definitely a place you can linger over your bowl.

TOTAL: 34/40 – Pretty respectable!

Cometa Acai Interior

Açaí na Tigela at Cometa Açaí

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Mineira Food in Rio de Janeiro: Bar do Mineiro

Bar do Mineiro
Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno 99
Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro

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We visited Minas Gerais, the culinary heartland of Brazil, at the beginning of March for the first time. Brazilians love the homey and simple style of Mineira food, and it is popular throughout the country. One of the top places to get Mineira cuisine in Rio de Janeiro is a Bar do Mineiro, founded in 1992 by the Paixão family from Carangola in Minas Gerais. Bar do Minerio is located in the eclectic, bohemian neighborhood of Santa Teresa, and is a simple affair, full of character.

Bar do Mineiro

The inside of Bar do Mineiro

Somehow Bar do Mineiro is more than the sum of its parts. The décor is unpolished, the food is simple, but it could not be more inviting! The menu is pretty expansive – especially the appetizers – which in true Brazilian fashions involves a huge variety of fried tidbits. We especially liked to bolinhos de aipim (fried manioc fritters) stuffed with carne seca or cheese (R$ 24) and the pastéis de feijão (black bean fried pastries – R$ 28). Another popular option is linguicinha mineira (R$ 36), fried linguiça sausage and onions served with sliced baguette.

Bolinhos do Aipim

Bolinhos do Aipim

If you want something more substantial, there are many chicken, fish or beef options including tutu à mineira (R$ 44) – a classic Mineira dish of meat and beans, along with entree options of steak and fries (R$ 48), or fried fish and rice (R$ 45). Bar do Mineiro is also known for its Minero-style feijoada on weekends (R$ 36 for one) – the iconic Brazilian stew of smoked meat, sausage, beans and greens (everyone makes it a little differently).

Bar do Mineiro

Grab a Table at Bar do Mineiro

Bar do Mineiro also served as the site of our friend M’s first taste of cachaça – in a caipirinha, of course! Along with caiprinhas and caipiroskas (caipirinhas with vodka instead) many of the patrons were enjoying a nice chopp (Brazilian draft beer). Bar do Mineiro is a great place for a laid-back meal or just to meet with friends over drinks. If you can’t make it to Minas, this is definitely the next-best thing.

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