Category Archives: Reviews

August 30, 2008 · 8:19 AM

St. Martin: Lolos

“Lolos” are what locals call informal outdoor barbecue restaurants, and are found all across St. Martin. Two of the most famous lolos are located in Grand Case, in the French half of the island. Grand Case is St. Martin’s restaurant row, and a single narrow street running parallel to the ocean, filled on each side with restaurants ranging from fancy to very simple. Any choice on Grand Case is probably at least solid, but some of the most popular are the lolos. The proprietors of these open-air restaurants are frequently seen pounding the pavement offering “1 dollar to 1 euro” currency conversions. Given the weakness of the dollar at the moment, that offer certainly caught our eye. However, the real draw is the laid-back atmosphere and tasty food.

Talk of the Town
Grand Case
St. Martin

The menus at Talk of the Town are displayed on wooden easels right on the sidewalk, and the delicious smell of shrimp and ribs on the grill draws passersby in. The lolo itself was a series of picnic tables covered with a canopy, adjacent to an open grill and a wooden bar. For less than ten dollars you can choose a main dish with a plate load of sides, cooked to order. I wish I had a picture of Talk of the Town itself, since it is no simple affair (we’re talking 30+ picnic tables), and is usually packed to the brim with an assortment of locals and tourists alike.

Our table ordered the Creole shrimp, Barbecue Ribs and BBQ chicken. The plate came with a heaping helping of side dishes, each of which can be ordered as a side dish for a couple of bucks. As you can see, the creole shrimp above came with a smörgåsbord of sides: a green salad, coleslaw (which was quite good and fresh), mac and cheese, red beans and rice, and spaghetti in creole sauce. The shrimp was beyond fresh, and with a beach-side location dotted with fishing and shrimping boats it’s no surprise. The ocean-fresh shrimp were well-complimented by the creole sauce, which was was a piquant blend of curry, onion, peppers, garlic, and hot sauce. The barbecue dishes were tangy and spicy with a tomato-based sauce that rivals any Southern BBQ joint. We would highly recommend Talk of the Town to anyone visiting St. Martin. It’s a unique experience with some excellent food. Beyond that, the high turnover and constant crowds assure all dishes are fresh to order.

Sky’s the Limit
 Grand Case
St. Martin

Located right next to Talk of the Town, we just narrowly chose against Sky’s the Limit. Both have a similar laid-back vibe, feature open grills and outdoor seating at informal wooden booths.

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August 28, 2008 · 7:29 AM

Time for Dessert at Hot Chocolate in Chicago

Hot Chocolate
1747 N. Damen Ave.
Chicago, IL

This ultra-modern chocolate bar has the feel of sitting inside of a chocolate bar itself! Done in deep browns and creams, Mindy Segal’s restaurant has a full dinner menu, as well as the featured deserts and chocolate drinks. We weren’t really in the mood for another large meal, so we stayed in the lounge section at the front of the restaurant and sampled some of the chocolate drinks and dessert creations instead. As dessert bars usually are, this one was a bit on the pricey side. However, the delectable deserts were worth it.

Doughnuts by Stu Pivak

Doughnuts by Stu Spivak

We sampled a vanilla crème brûlée with summer berries ($11) and a “Shot of Hot Chocolate” which was a tiny, rich brownie with a shot glass of chilled hot chocolate ($4). Each was delicious, and an inventive take on a dessert classic. Other unique menu items included a platter of doughnuts with a hot chocolate dipping sauce. We also had a good sampling of chocolate-flavored alcoholic drinks such as the Chocolate Martini, with Stoli vanilla, Kahlua, Baileys and chocolate milk ($12). In this case, the alcohol tended to overpower the chocolate. Not bad, of course, if that what you’re going for. All in all, sampling the treats at Hot Chocolate is a great way to end the night and satisfy your sweet tooth. Maybe next time we will even saple some of the savory items. If you’re ever in the Wicker Park area, we recommend stopping by to at least check out the unique ambiance and delicious deserts.

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August 18, 2008 · 2:16 PM

Korea: Red Mango

Red Mango

809 Davis St. (This location closed, other US locations open)
Evanston, IL 60201

Red Mango is the Korean chain that kicked off the latest version of Frozen Yogurt mania. However, it was Pinkberry who really brought the Custom FroYo concept to America by ‘co-opting’ the Red Mango concept. However, Red Mango is the true original, and is increasingly bringing their treats stateside. Red Mango recently opened their first Chicagoland stores in Evanston and Naperville and the eaters were there to check out the scene on the opening day.

Keeping the look of its West-Coast stores, the Evanston Red Mango is small and modern, with only a few tables and stools. The concept is simple – pick a flavor of frozen yogurt – plain or green tea and choose an assortment of toppings, raging from fresh raspberries to Fruity Pebbles. This little number on the left is green tea with Ghirardelli chocolate chips. The yogurt is smooth and creamy, with a hint of citrusy tang (or in the case of green tea flavor – a sweet green tea kick). A small cup – seen here on the right – is $2.50 for plain and $3.50 for green tea. The toppings are $1 for one, and $1.25 for two. Though a little pricey for a daily indulgence, it’s one you don’t have to feel to guilty about at only 90 calories a serving.

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August 17, 2008 · 6:42 PM

St. Martin: Patisseries

Nowhere has the St. Martin benefited from its European heritage than in its lovely patisseries. Throughout the island, little French-style boulangeries and patisseries dot the landscape, offering crusty baguettes and flaky croissants for a pittance. Especially on the French half of the island, where it is not unusual to see several of these oases on a single street. It was truly an interesting global experience, to see a little bake shop overflowing nearly onto a tropical beach! Below I talk about some of our favorite bakery experiences on the island.

Sarafina’s
Marigot
St. Martin

Sarafina’s was far and away our favorite Patisserie on the Island. It looked like it could have been teleported right off of the streets of Paris to Marigot. Sarafina’s is an open-air cafe, with a long glass pastry case along one side and a gelato case to the right side. And who could ask for more? While Sarafina’s boasted a nice variety of savory items, including a quite good chicken Panini and adorable little quiches, the pasties took the cake (no pun intended). We dropped by several times throughout our trip to sample their wares.

The tarts were to die for. For only a couple of euros (thankfully, especially with the weak dollar) you got a perfect custard filled tartlet topped with fresh strawbeeries or raspberries with a sugar glaze that managed to be perfectly sweet but not cloying. Also of note was the chocolate mille feuille. ‘Mille feuille’ means “thousand sheets” in French and this nice dessert was indeed countless sheets of pastry layered with rich chocolate cream. Despite it being upwards of 90 degrees Fahrenheit outside, we truly could not get enough of these decadent treats. The Baguettes and croissants were ludicrously cheap and delicious, at less than one euro a pop.

Piece of Cake
Plaza Del Lago, Simpson Bay
Sint Maarten

PoC is a tiny, cute sandwich shop/patisserie and gelateria in Simpson Bay. Located in an unassuming shopping mall, the little shop is unassuming by day, however, at night, the gelateria is lit by some pretty crazy Vegas-style neon signs. Taking cues from the nearby casinos (which are somewhat common on the Ducth side), PoC lights up with tons of signage including a huge ice cream cone and a gingerbread man (the logo of the store). Though they have a small selection of pastries and sandwich menu, what people come to Piece of Cake for is the gelato. They had a wide variety of Ciao Bella flavors, from Cassis to Mango to Cookies and Cream, all delicious. Even better, the shop is also open until 11 PM, making it a great post-dinner stop.

Zee Best
Plaza Del Lago, Simpson Bay
Sint Maarten

When you arrive at Zee Best in St. Martin, your table is given a basket of pastries. They don’t tell you then but A. It’s not free, and you are going to get charged for any piece you eat, and B. Everything in the basket is going to look really good, so chances are you will eat it. Not just pastries though, Zee Best offers a full breakfast menu including a plethora of choices. The omelets are tasty and generously portioned, as were the crepes. For the sweet tooths, Zee Best offers a variety of Nutella-based crepes, for those who would prefer something heartier, a basil, mozzarella and tomato crepe fits the bill.

Au Pain de Sucre
Pelican Resort Club, Simpson Bay
Sint Maarten

Off a winding road deep into resort territory – Au Pain de Sucre did a respectable job of providing a mostly-tourist crowd with solid pastries and continental breakfasts. Not much else to report, since we just popped in for a bite.

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August 9, 2008 · 12:34 PM

Pan Asian cuisine in Chicago: Miss Asia

Miss Asia
434 W. Diversey Pkwy
Chicago, IL 60614

Miss Asia is a new North Side restaurant with some broad culinary ambitions – to cover nearly every country in Asia. Though the focus is on Thai food, Miss Asia boasts dishes from Malaysia, the Philippines, Korea, Japan, Laos, Vietnam, India, Indonesia, Cambodia, Singapore, Nepal, China, and Mongolia. Undeterred by Anthony Bourdain’s comment that “Asia is a big place, how are they going to do the whole thing?” (said on last season’s Top Chef) we decided that we were going to try some dishes off the non-Thai section. The size of the menu was daunting in itself, but all of the prices were very reasonable.

Anne ordered the Teriyaki Chicken off of the Japanese portion of the menu. The Teriyaki chicken ($9.95) was served on a bed of rice and veggies and was not too sweet (a good thing). I opted for the Indonesian Opor curry ($9.95). The curry itself was coconut milk-based and mild and was fragrant with lemongrass and cilantro. We were both pleased with our dishes. There is a lot of value for the price, as most dishes are under 10 or 11 dollars. Maybe we’ll be back to try some of the Thai dishes that are the restaurant’s specialty.

The place was trendy, and fancier than your typical corner Thai takeout, with bright orange walls, tables with linens and Buddha statues and wall hangings. However, when we arrived at 7, nearly the whole place was empty. However, it was the middle of a rainstorm, so that might have not been helping. Hopefully, they will be able to attract a steady clientele. Sadly, though, I don’t think I can count this restaurant on our official ETW map. Otherwise, most of Asia would be gone in one fell swoop!

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July 21, 2008 · 10:37 PM

Japan: Sushi Blu [Closed]

Sushi Blu  [Closed]
1710 Orrington Avenue
Evanston, IL

L and I aren’t that big on sushi, but when a friend offered to take us to Blu, a visually upscale sushi bar in downtown Evanston, we couldn’t turn it down. The restaurant was empty when we entered (usually not a good sign), but were surprised by the avant-garde decorations that seem more at home in a New York or Chicago nightclub than a sushi bar.

With the upscale decor, we were shocked to realize that the $7-13 lunch specials were for an entire lunch plate, not just a single piece of sushi. L avoided the sushi route and ordered chicken bento – grilled teriyaki chicken on a rice bed, plus vegetable tempura and a salad. M decided to try the sushi (going against a number of past eating experiences) and ordered blu maki bento – 3 sushi of shrimp tempura, 3 of spicy tuna, and a small salad.

To start, both meals came with free miso soup that surpassed our expectations of what miso soup should taste like. I in particular am not a big tofu fan, but I found this miso to be flavorful and light, unlike other thicker, over-tofu-ed misos I’ve had in the past.

But our main dishes easily stole the show. The food, on both of our plates, was beautifully presented far beyond what was necessary for a relatively quick and cheap lunch order. In addition, the amount of food we received was well beyond what we anticipated (the 10 sushi I received came out to about a dollar per roll, less than a fifth of sushi prices at similar establishments.) L’s chicken avoided the over-sugared problem of other teriyakis, and balanced nicely with the veggie tempura on the side. My sushi presented something of an eating challenge (I kept the chopsticks) but had a great time experimenting with the flavor combinations of raw tuna, shrimp, ginger, wasabi, and vegetables. The sushi was tasty and filling while managing to remain subtly flavored in all the right ways.

Overall, the food was beautifully presented, filling and tasty, and unbelievably cheap both for the amount of food and especially in comparison with other sushi places, particularly when you consider its Evanston location (not exactly known for the cheap eats) as well as the interior decor. A sushi place we might actually come back to!

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July 11, 2008 · 12:50 AM

Mexico Trip: Moles

L and I love moles. A Spanish corruption of a Nahua word meaning simply “sauce,” today moles span varieties as diverse as guacamole (avocado sauce), chocolate moles (great on enchiladas) and a number of other varieties less common in the United States, but still popular and widespread in Mexico. My trip gave me a chance to sample a couple of mole dishes, as well as learn a little about the sauces and their relation to Mexican culture in general.

Cafe El Popular Restaurante
 Avenida Cinco de Mayo 52
México, D.F., México

While in the historic center of Mexico City, I wandered into Cafe El Popular looking for a relatively quick and cheap lunch that would still give me a chance to have some solid Mexican cooking. El Popular looked like just such a place, packed to the brim with local patrons inside a large diner that seemed more out of the 1950s than Mexico’s modern megalopolis. When I arrived around noon, the menu still leaned toward the breakfast end of things, but I managed to find mole de pollo (Chicken mole) and the menu and quickly place my order.Mole in Mexico

I had been to Mexico previously, and my trip then taught me that there is a reason the “mole” comes first in the dish’s name – the chicken is slathered in mole sauce. Not that I am complaining – smooth and chocolatey, mixing together with the rice and fall-off-the-bone chicken, a solid chocolate mole really can’t do anything wrong to a dish. Especially if it is the focal point. That being said, I did think El Popular’s addition of a copious amount of sesame seeds was a little strange, until I found the seeds being used in dishes across Mexico City. Maybe it is just a culinary fad, but I can’t say I am on board with this one. Overall, I left El Popular satisfied and eager for other moles – particularly ones that break the common chocolate-only stereotype we often find in the USA.

Restaurante Techinanco
 Service Road, North of Pyramid of the Moon
Teotihuacán, Estado de México, México

The next day I went exploring in Teotihuacan, an ancient site outside of Mexico City so massive and pyramid-ridden that a few hours of walking completely wears you out. For sustenance, I made the mistake of trusting my Lonely Planet guide to direct me toward Restaurant Techinanco, which it recommended as having the best food for miles around. The writers were correct about the food, but an hour of looking for the restaurant made me realize they were wrong about the location (it is directly behind, not next to, the Pyramid of the Moon at the north end of the site).

When I finally got to Techinanco (pronounced tetch-ee-non-co), I was the only patron in the restaurant. A quick glance around gave away a few of the restaurant’s secrets – the two mushroom posters at the far end (visible in the photo) leak some of the key ingredients in a number of Techinanco’s dishes. The plethora of masks on the far wall give off a far less touristy vibe than the surrounding establishments – and the effort saved goes directly into the food.Mole in Mexico

Techinanco’s menu was small, but I made a quick decision: chicken with mole huitlacoche (also spelled cuitlacoche), a green sauce made with mushrooms and maize (wild corn). The friendly owners must have made a pot of the sauce earler in the day, as my food was served almost immediately. And it was heavenly. I can’t really say what I imagined a mushroom / corn mole sauce would taste like, but this was not it. It was almost acidic, with a sharp bite that activated my tastebuds in all the right places, then finished smooth like a good homemade pasta sauce. The finishing taste only made you eat more, and while I filled up quickly during the meal, had I had more than a few pesos in my pocket I probably would have ordered seconds. To top it off, the chicken was grilled to perfection, holding just the right amount of natural juices to let the huitlacoche work its magic. If I am ever back in Teotihuacan, I will definitely make the effort to find Techinanco again (no thanks to the Lonely Planet mapmakers!)

All in all, Mexican food once again fails to disappoint. L and I have plans to try to make our own moles (possibly an upcoming Recipe Friday?) – perhaps we can try to create my new huitlacoche favorite. I doubt it can even approach Techinanco’s creations, however. If in the meantime anyone has any Chicago-area suggestions for some authentic Mexican regional moles, we would love to hear them!

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June 25, 2008 · 12:08 AM

Mexico Trip: La Estancia del Centro

La Estancia del Centro
Avenidas Morelos and Juárez Veracruz,
Veracruz, Mexico

L and I have had something of an obsession with molcajetes, particularly their usual short stocky legs and animal faces, since we saw them used as salsa bowls at a Chicago restaurant last year. Last week, while I was in Veracruz, Mexico for an academic conference, I discovered that while there I would actually be able to eat molcajete the food, a pre-hispanic dish made with a heated mixture of salsa, spices, and nopal, ground together to form a sauce, then used to cook meat and vegetables inside the molcajete pot.

I read in my Lonely planet book that La Estancia del Centro (the Mexico lonely planet guide misprinted the name as La Estancia de Boca) was the best and only place in Veracruz to eat molcajetes. La Estancia del Centro so publicizes its molcajetes, in fact, that they use the iconic image as the symbol for their restaurant. With reviews and a kitschy logo on my side, I knew I had to try this place.

It was 7pm when I made the short walk from Veracruz’ zócalo to La Estancia. I was the only diner in the restaurant at the time (7pm is far too early for dinner for most Mexicans), but was served promptly and courteously. I ordered quickly – a molcajete of enchilada meat, cooked in a green salsa base. The server took my order, and then immediately brought out my complimentary appetizers: a strangely crumbly piece of bread (as opposed to the typical tortillas) served with three different dipping salsas. The bread was completely incompatible with the salsas, full of holes that let the sauces fall through, but as the only things on the table I had no choice but to put them together. I picked away at the bread and the salsas, testing out their different flavor combinations, when my molcajete finally arrived.

The large stone bowl, decorated with animal legs and a pig head front, had been used to prepare all the food and then heated in an oven until sizzling. One needs to be careful, as one touch of the heated stone bowl is just as dangerous as a boiling pot of water. I mixed around the contents: the salsa base (which looked much more red than green to me), the meat, and two small onions. The dish came with an endless supply of corn tortillas (I’d take advantage).

One thing I have always appreciated about Mexican cuisine in general is the way a number of different sauces and spices are incorporated that allow the eater to experience a variety of different flavor combinations inside the same meal. This was no different. The molcajete, by itself, was absolutely delectable. The nopal gave the meat and sauce an acidic finish, leaving your taste buds tingling just enough to get more. But with that, one could combine any or all of the three salsas, which seemed to take on different flavors than when eaten alone. One made the molcajete almost unbearably spicy, another gave it a cooler, lime flavor; and the third (a disappointment) didn’t seem to do much at all. All in all, the meal was large, hearty, and outside the weird bread, a fantastic culinary experience. The best part? The price – a meal easily large enough for two people cost a total of 90 pesos (around $9 US).

A final thought – this seemed to be a meal you can get in very few places in the world, and one I am very anxious to try some different versions of. Chicago has a great selection of Mexican regional cuisine, so perhaps there is a good spot in the city to find some. Until then, La Estancia del Centro was far and away the best food I had in Veracruz, and any return trip I have to the city will definitely include another molcajete.

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June 18, 2008 · 11:59 PM

Greece: Isabella’s Estiatorio [Closed]

GreeceIsabella’s Estiatorio [Closed]
330 W. State St.,
Geneva, IL

Isabella’s Estiatorio in downtown Geneva, IL really is an unexpected find. Perhaps I shouldn’t say that though, since they definitely have been found, what with a Zagat Rating proudly displayed, as well as a featured spot on Check Please!. We arrived at Isabella’s on a blustery Thursday, and the restaurant was already crowded. The dining room is understated and elegant, with hardwood floors and big picture windows. As we came in out of the cold and we were warmly greeted by our hostess and server (we thankfully had a reservation). The menu consists of a variety of rotating seasonal Mediterranean (with emphasis on Greek) dishes.

We started out with their home made dip plate, which consisted of a basket of fresh pita bread and a sample of four Greek dipping sauces and olives ($12). The included dips were tzatziki, melitzanosalata (chopped eggplant and tomatoes), taramosalata (Cod caviar) and hummus. All of the dips were excellent, and more than enough for two to share. The dish came highly recommended, and is always available, not matter the season. M also enjoyed a baby spinach salad with pears and blue cheese ($8).

For the main course, I (L) ordered the pork tenderloin with an apple cider glaze ($23). My favorite part of the dish was the neat little square of Manchego Potatoes Au Gratin, which was a cheesy layered, lasagna-style concoction. M chose mesquite grilled lamb chops ($28), which he had sampled there many times before. The chops came with crispy potatoes and a lemon-oregano reduction. The latest incarnation of the chops did not disappoint, and were tender and moist.

For dessert we had the white chocolate mousse, which was probably the least successful of the dishes. It was fairly watery, with both the texture and flavor of a mediocre zabaglione. But no matter, the rest of the meal had made up for it. Isabella’s is a great, unexpected spot for dinner if you happen to be in the Western suburbs. The service is friendly, the food is great and the atmosphere is refined, yet relaxed.

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June 5, 2008 · 3:04 PM

[Philly Trip] Mexico: El Vez

Mexico FlagEl Vez
121 S. 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA

El Vez is kitschy, loud and fun, the perfect place for a fun dinner out with a friend. So, when my friend Kun decided on dinner there for our night out in Philly, I was excited. The food is decidedly Nuevo Latino, and in true Steven Starr style, the dining room is tricked out with all sorts of over-the-top touches like a sequined low rider and photo-and-memento-covered walls.

We ordered a molcajete of ‘El Vez’ Guacamole, with tomato, onions, jalapeno, cilantro and lime ($12). The guac was the favorite part of the meal (if a little overpriced), and came with a basket of bottomless freshly-fried corn tortilla chips. Since my camera is kaput, I have included this lovely molcajete picture on the right from Flickr user Texas to Mexico, which approximates the one we had at El Vez. For mains we both had mole dishes, at Kun’s recommendation. The Red Chile and Chicken Enchiladas with cotija cheese ($9) and chicken mole dinner entree with refried beans and tortillas ($14) were completely made by the rich, smoky mole sauce.

All in all, El vez was a little on the pricey side, but worth it for the kitschy ambiance and pretty good (if not entirely authentic food). I mean, check out the lo-rider bike from the Website…

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May 30, 2008 · 10:09 PM

Our favorite Ethiopian restaurant in Chicago: Ethiopian Diamond

Ethiopian Diamond
6120 N Broadway
Chicago, IL 60660

There are certain ways you can tell if a restaurant specializing in foreign cuisine is any good. Sure, you can read Zagat reviews all you want, but we’ve found even that to be untrustworthy on more than one occasion. We knew Ethiopian Diamond was going to be good when we walked in we saw and saw entire table of Ethiopians eating dinner and speaking amharic. We were not disappointed. Hands down, Ethiopian Diamond is the best African place we’ve found in Chicago, and it’s definitely on par with our other best African food experience – Au Village in Paris.

Zagat had given Ethiopian Diamond high marks for food (a 24) but very low for both service and décor. We have our own standards, but found them wrong on both counts. Ethiopian Diamond is one large room, sparsely decorated with large canvas paintings and small reminders of Ethiopian culture. Our aforementioned table featured four vertical-backed chairs modeled after Ethiopian obelisks, arranged around at a basket table, or mesob. Maybe we’ve just never been the type to critique the way a restaurant looks, but we’ve always found it comforting when a place spends more time and effort on the food then on the interior design. It was just right for us.

With that, we dived into the menu. It had a wide variety of appetizers and stews, meaning we had tons of choices. This wasn’t our first time around the East African block, so we quickly decided on Doro Tibs Watt (chicken breast meat cubes marinated in lemon juice and ginger, cooked in spicy sauce) and Doro Tibs Alicha (chicken breast cubes in a sauce of onions, garlic, and ginger). The menu initially seemed overpriced ($13 a dish) until we received our food. A huge plate arrived, meant to be shared, complete with both our orders, both hot and spicy chickpeas, a cup of hot sauce, a salad, and eight pieces of injera which double-served as both our carbs and our utensils.

The two dishes provided a great contrast: the Doro Watt had a sharp flavor kick, while the Alicha was much more subtle but still delicious. The chicken was perfectly done. The smoky, peppery sauce, which came in a little cup added a kick to any option. However, we kept raving about the injera, the bread was delicate and spongy, with a slight sourdough kick. The seemingly endless bread supply only urged us to eat more, even far after we knew our stomachs were full. After we finished eating, the $26 bill seemed like a complete steal.

If we had any complaint about the service, it was that they never refilled our water cups – and to combat the spicy chickpeas, we definitely needed them. Otherwise they were perfectly efficient and gracious. Ethiopian Diamond surpassed all of our expectations, so if we ever find ourselves around Granville and Broadway again and even mildly hungry, we will definitely be back (maybe to try some coffee and desserts).

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May 25, 2008 · 2:08 AM

Czech Republic: Klas Restaurant in Cicero [Closed]

Klas Restaurant
5734 W Cermak Rd
Cicero, IL 60804

Klas Restaurant

The decor gives you plenty of reason to enter Cicero’s most visible symbol of Czech heritage. Bathrooms that require you to enter through stone doors; a dining room accented with taxidermied birds, and candelabras reminiscent of a Bohemian castle. Unfortunately for the eaters, however, Klas’ wonderment started at the decorations and promptly ended with both the food and the service.

Resident hawk at Klas

Maybe we should have seen it coming, but there was a clear defining line between regulars (read: older customers) and us (the only people under fifty). Our server, while seemingly quite polite with the other customers, demanded our orders within a minute of our seating, and did so in a manner that made us feel more like criminal suspects than hungry lunchers.

We let all this slide, because at the time the menu seemed quite tasty. When we entered around 1PM, seeking the lunch specials, my (M) eye went straight for the 1/4 stewed chicken in paprika cream sauce, with dumplings (pictured below).

Sadly, the paprika and the chicken in this dish really didn’t come through. The sauce was quite bland, and the chicken – little of it that there was – was a tad too gristly for my liking. The dumplings were ok, not really much more than slices of bread, but really their only function was to soak up the disappointing paprika sauce. L didn’t fare much better. She ordered the Breaded Pork Tenderloin with dumplings (the menu gives an option between dumplings and potato salad, but our waiter didn’t give us a choice), about which she had a similar complaint to my dish – just too bland. Additionally, they ran out of breaded pork (the best thing on the plate), and gave her a piece of fatty roast pork in place of a 2nd piece. Everything tasted just alright, but didn’t have the excellent execution or flavor that one would expect from such a famous, stalwart restaurant.

All in all, we were disappointed by Klas. We won’t go so far as to blame Czech cuisine in general, because we are sure there must be restaurants who handle the cuisine better than this. Maybe it just isn’t our cup of tea. Despite our impressions, Klas has been open since 1922, so it must be doing something right.

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May 12, 2008 · 11:54 PM

Austria: Julius Meinl

AustriaJulius Meinl
3601 N Southport Ave
Chicago, IL

A stone’s throw from Wrigley Field. Julius Meinl is a little taste of Vienna right in Chicago. Julius Meinl is an Austrian company known for their coffee blends (and unique logo), and this cozy cafe is their only American outpost. You can either take out coffee and tea drinks to go, or dine in on a menu of American and European fare. The drink menu is stunningly comprehensive and extensive, featuring Meinl’s artisan coffee blends as well as specialty drinks like Black Forest Mocha ($4.45) and Vienna Eiskaffe ($2.95), a blend of espresso and vanilla ice cream. If you are eating in, there is table service at an ample seating area. Meinl has an extensive breakfast menu as well as soups and sandwiches. The European portion of the menu includes Spätzle, Crepes and Austrian goulash. A favorite off the American portion of the menu is the Chicken Salad Sandwich with grapes, apricots, walnuts and Tarragon dressing. The sandwich comes on hearty walnut wheat bread, with a small micro-green salad ($7.95).

However, perhaps the most enticing part of Julius Meinl are the desserts. You can scope out the goods, baked in-house, in the glass case at the counter, ranging from about $4-6. If you like chocolate, you won’t be disappointed. The Viennese Torte is an excellent mix of bittersweet chocolate and apricot jam, as is the Mohr Im Hemd – a chocolate cake with a molten chocolate center. The service is a bit erratic, unfortunately, but the surroundings are comfortable. If you’re ever around Wrigley Field, looking for a relaxing lunch or a cup of joe, Julius Meinl is a great alternative to the ho-hum Starbucks or Corner Bakery. Come for the coffee, stay for the dessert.

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April 27, 2008 · 7:30 PM

Our Favorite Place for Middle Eastern in the Chicago Suburbs: Pita Inn

turkey.png Pita Inn
New Location: 4700 Dempster St.
Skokie , IL

If you see that a restaurant is packed full at 3 PM on Sunday, you know it’s probably pretty decent. In the case of Pita Inn, It was more than decent. Talk about bang for your buck! From the outside, the Pita Inn just looks like a typical fast food operation. Same on the inside – there is a counter where you place your order and get a number. One word: Amazing. The menu features a variety of pitas and platters: Chicken and Beef Shewarma, Kifta, Beef and Chicken Kabobs and Falafel sandwiches. There are also all of the classic appetizers: Hummus, Baba Ghanouj, Tabouleh and Dolmeh.

Our table ordered 2 falafel sandwiches and 1 each of the chicken and beef shewarma pitas. Each sandwich came in a chewy, obviously-fresh pita at the bargain price of less than $4.50 each. The shewarma sandwiches were tasty and well-seasoned. However, the stars of the show were the falafel. These are some serious falafel – good texture, crispy outside, even better drenched with tahini. Yum!

The best part, however, was the fact that the Pita Inn factory was located in a strip mall that shared a parking lot with the restaurant. There was a little window that connected the pita factory to a Middle-Eastern grocery store by a pass-through window. You could buy bags of fresh pitas in the grocery store for less than 4 bucks to take home. Here’s our fresh-out-of-the-oven purchase. As you can see, the bag is full of steam! These pitas were absolutely delicious. Pita Inn doesn’t have a Zagat rating of 24 for nothing.

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April 20, 2008 · 12:37 AM

Thailand: TAC Quick

TAC Quick
3930 N Sheridan Rd
Chicago, IL

TAC Quick gets a lot of glowing praise as one of the top Thai Restaurants in Chicago so I was excited when my [L] friend and I popped in for dinner last week. TAC is literally right next to the Sheridan Red line el stop, so it could not be easier to get to. The space itself is modern and inviting with wooden tables, and the staff is pleasant and efficient. Not to mention the prices are ridiculously cheap. I ordered the Peanut Curry ($7.50) which consisted of a deep bowl filled with egg noodles, chicken, bean sprouts, green onions, cilantro and peanut curry. The peanut curry was (coconut) milky and soupy and had a little kick to it, perfect for slurping up with the provided soup spoon.

The verdict? It’s all about expectations. I felt the same about TAC Quick as I did about Juno. The reviews ruined a perfectly good thing for me, because there was no way it could live up to the hype. Maybe I was expecting TAC Quick to be some kind of holy Thai epicurean grail, but I didn’t find it much better than my usual local haunt, Thai Sookdee. In any case, I think I’ll have to be back to sample more of TAC’s esoteric specialties. There is a ‘secret’ Thai menu that also contains inventive and unique dishes. I guess the protocol is that you have to ask the waiter for the menu, and some of the specials are also publicized on a chalkboard. Maybe next time I’ll feel like nominating TAC Quick for an Oscar?

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April 16, 2008 · 8:58 PM

Mexico: Carniceria Guanajuato

Carniceria Guanajuato
1436 N Ashland Ave
Chicago, IL

M and I were in the Wicker Park area on Sunday, so we decided we wanted to try somewhere new for a quick lunch. We found our lunch at Carniceria Guanajuato – a grocery store selling primarily Mexican foods, meat and fresh produce. M and I would have been plenty pleased just perusing the aisles like we usually do, picking up some tasty cookies and bottles of Jarritos or Mexican Coke. However, we heard it through the grapevine that the Carniceria was home to a lunch counter that made a mean (and thrifty) taco.

Towards the back of the store there was indeed a little lunch counter boasting a menu of tortas, tacos and burritos. Each came with a choice of Carne Asada, Chorizo, Lengua or Carnitas (unfortunately chicken was not served on weekends). The prices could also not be beat, at only $1.60 for each taco. We each ordered two tacos and waited in anticipation at one of the booths as the cooks prepared our meal.

I (L) ordered the carne asada tacos, which came minimally garnished with a heaping helping of cilantro and red onion. The eaters don’t mind a spot of red onion, but there was a lot here. More than we expected. However, they worked in the taco and turned out to not be too overwhelming. The soft corn tortillas were fresh-tasting and held up under the weight of all of the contents. The carne asada itself was well-seasoned and flavorful, however it was chopped a little too finely, giving the unfortunate texture of ground meat.

M got the Chorizo Tacos, which were spicy and great. There was so much filling, we had to scoop some out with a spoon. M retrieved a lime and a bottle of homemade salsa verde from the counter as garnish, both of which only improved everything.

We left the carniceria satiated and happy. If we are in the area and needed a quick lunch, we’d definitely return. Additionally, the grocery had some fun kitchen items we might want to explore later. Maybe we’ll even buy a molcajete next time…

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April 4, 2008 · 10:19 AM

Solid Indian food in the suburbs: India House

India House
1521 W. Schaumburg Rd.
Schaumburg, IL

Another Indian buffet in the NW burbs? Yeah, there are tons, but we found a good one. India House is a huge banquet hall specializing in buffets and opulent weddings, located in a nondescript Suburban strip mall. India House has been around for many years, and is famous for their prolific $9.99 lunch buffet. It had gotten some good reviews, so I brought along my youngest sibling, who I was introducing to Indian food. We arrived at 11:30 on a weekday and were the first people there -so we arrived to an absolutely fresh buffet. The room itself was nice, if stereotypically banquet-y, with booths along one side and crystal chandeliers. We made a beeline for the buffet and sampled the following dishes, though there were many more:

  • Mattar Paneer – Soft cheese cubes prepared with green peas.
  • Potato Pakora – Spicy little potato fritters
  • Surti Dal – Yellow lentils cooked in herbs and spices.
  • Lamb and Chicken curry – Two yellow curry dishes of medium heat.
  • Spicy South Indian soup – A super spicy soup with peppers, eggplants and potatoes.
  • Chicken Makhani – AKA butter chicken, white-meat chicken in a mild tomato sauce, great for tikka masala lovers.
  • Gulab Jamun– Fried milk pastry in sweet saffron syrup.
  • Kheer -Rice Pudding

Interestingly, a sizzling plate of tandoori chicken was also brought directly to our booth on cast iron slab, as was a basket of fluffy naan. Everything from the buffet was fresh and tasty, and there were a variety of spice levels and a mix of familiar and new dishes. We were totally surprised by the free plate of tandoori chicken that came with the buffet, which was excellent. We also ordered a Mango Lassi which was rich and creamy, but at $4.50, a little overpriced. As we ate, the huge room began to fill up with lunching businesspeople and locals, assuring us of the buffet’s popularly. India House also has a branch on Devon, home to most of Chicago’s best Indian restaurants, so that may be worth trying out as well, if you are not in the burbs. My sibling enjoyed the experience, and is now an Indian food convert. Overall, India House is a great suburban stop if you have a craving for Indian food, and has something for newbies and stalwarts alike.

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March 30, 2008 · 8:46 PM

Switzerland 2: Eating New Glarus pt. 2

switzerland.pngNew Glarus Bakery
534 First St
New Glarus, WI

After our hearty lunch at the New Glarus Hotel, we wandered around the town of New Glarus popping in and out of the Euro-themed gift stores (we wanted to go to the Chocolate and Cheese Haus, but it was closed). We came across the New Glarus bakery, where we though we might be able to get a bretzel, and perhaps some sweet treats. While they didn’t have bretzels, there were glass cases filled with unusual cookies at very cheap prices. We ended up sampling 4 varieties for a grand total of about a dollar:

  • Spekulatius – These were square gingerbread cookies, which are relatives of the Belgian Speculoos. These were chewy with pieces of ginger and almond throughout.
  • Sandbissen – Your basic shortbread cookie. Not bad. Not sweet enough for our tastes, though.
  • Chocolate Blueberry Spritz – A classic chocolate sugar spritz cookie with a dried blueberry in the center. Nice, dark chocolate in a cute star shape (shaped by a cookie press).
  • Pfeffernüsse – Covered in powdered sugar, and flavored with cloves, cinnamon and black pepper, these were the most unusual cookies of the bunch.

SwissCookie
As you can see from this picture, there were plenty more varieties to try – making your own sampler won’t break the bank. We were impressed by the unusual cookie selection, and we will definitely be back.

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March 30, 2008 · 3:37 PM

Switzerland 1: Eating New Glarus pt. 1

switzerland.pngNew Glarus Hotel Restaurant
100 6th Avenue
New Glarus, WI

New Glarus, Wisconsin has the distinction of being “America’s Little Switzerland,” having preserved it’s Swiss heritageInn since its founding in the mid-1800s. Arriving in the town, you do get a hint (ok a lot) of kitsch. All of the buildings are alpine chalet-style. Even the RE/MAX and self-storage boast Swiss canton crests and half-timbers.

Rolling into the town at about 1 PM Wednesday, it was pretty much dead. Our first stop was the New Glarus Hotel, the biggest building in town, home of the New Glarus Hotel Restaurant, featuring polka music on the weekends and tons of old-school decor.

We had a very friendly dirndl-clad waitress, who could clearly tell we were not local. We were quickly presented with a huge menu of old-school Swiss food as we listened to some yodeling piped in on speakers (no lie). The menu consisted of tons of Schnitzels, Roestis, Raclette as well as some basic American sandwiches. L started out with a cup of Swiss Onion Soup, which seemed to be a cup of French Onion soup with an extra crust of melty Gruyere, but with chunks of bacon (unfortunately, since L doesn’t like bacon that much). For a main course, L had the Roesti, a traditional Swiss dish. A Rösti/Roesti is basically a huge, glorified hash brown, consisting of grated potatoes fried with with caramelized onions and a bit of Raclette as a filling. L ordered the plain Roesti, though there were meat and cheese varieties. Though M ate most of L’s soup, the Roesti was quickly gobbled up.

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M had the Raclette entree, which was basically a plate of boiled potatoes with melted Raclette cheese garnished with capers, baby gherkins and onions. The dish was probably overpriced at $11 (it was only potatoes and cheese), but M loves cheese so he enjoyed it. We sopped up the extra cheese with garlic rolls from the breadbasket, which were really excellent.

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This was our first foray into Swiss food, and as far as we can tell, it is like German food, but with cheese. We like cheese, so that was a plus. There are a handful of other restaurants in New Glarus, most boasting the same stick-to-your-ribs meat/cheese/potato fare. The New Glarus Hotel restaurant is a good place to start – we only wish we had been there on polka night.

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March 25, 2008 · 9:19 AM

A trip back in time at Russian Tea Time

Russia
Russian Tea Time
77 E Adams St
Chicago, IL

My friend Anne and I [L] ended up at the Russian Tea Time on the snowiest day of the year (Yes, in Chicago the blizzards extend well into Spring…). After having walked by this restaurant for years upon years on my way to the Art Institute, I was happy to actually go inside. We entered the cozy restaurant at about 2 PM to find it absolutely packed to the brim with a bus tour of senior citizens. Luckily, we managed to find space at the bar. Looking around the restaurant, it did begin to feel a little bit like brunch with a grandma, with throwback decor and porcelain dolls everywhere, including on top of huge samovars. But also like grandma’s it’s a cozy and inviting space.

The menu was full of Russian, Eastern European and Central Asian specialties (one of the owners is originally from Uzbekistan). Anne ordered latkes ($8.95), which came with sour cream and applesauce. I ordered the the varineky- Ukrainian potato dumplings ($8.95) with carrot salad, sour cream and yogurt sauce. Both dishes were tasty and stick-to-your-ribs good. Perfect for a cold day. The service was pleasant but a bit slow, mostly on account of the tourbus crowd. I would definitely return to Russian Tea Time later to try some of their more exotic specialties like the Uzbek chick pea stew or the Azerbaijani mushroom caps. Appropriately, they also have a nice afternoon tea.

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