[Road Trip Eats] Spain: Despaña

Despaña
408 Broome St.
New York, NY

Though Chicago boasts a wide variety of specialty grocery stores offering Mexican and Central American foods, there are no continental Spanish groceries. So we were excited to check out Despaña in SoHo, NYC. The store itself is small but uncluttered with a large deli case on one side and shelves of packaged goods on the other. We perused the selection of vinegars and olive oils, and many varieties had little sampling dishes to try all the different varieties. There is also a small selection of sweets to try, like Spanish nougat candy Turrón. We picked up a Crema Catalana boxed mix to take home with us (a steal at $2.50).

At the deli counter, there is an extensive case of Spanish cheeses and meats. While there were of course well-known Spanish cheeses like manchego, we were excited to see some more exotic cheeses like the unusual sheep’s milk Murcia al Vino (also called “Drunken Goat“), which is soaked in red wine. At the back wall of the store there is also a section with pre-made foods to eat at the small table area or take home. Featured sandwiches included: Chorizo with Mahon cheese and hot peppers ($8.50) and Nocilla (Spanish Hazlenut spread) on Cibatta for $5. There were also small tapas-style dishes, called pinxtos ($3-5), for snacking. We opted for the homemade blueberry cheesecake made with Afuega cow’s-milk cheese, which was excellent.

At Despaña, also M got his first taste of Spanish horchata, which is quite different than the rice-based Mexican horchata that is common in the US. Spanish horchata is made from tiger nuts and mixed with cinnamon, so it tastes kind of like a spicy almond milk. A liter bottle of Chufi brand horchata set us back only $5. Another particular we enjoyed about Despaña was their helpful staff, who couldn’t have been nicer. If you are in the area, you should definitely check out Despaña’s Iberic treats. It’s a whirlwind culinary tour of Spain your pocketbooks can handle!

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Another Roadtrip!

This past weekend M and I went to Minneapolis – St. Paul to visit our friend Katie. While there we tried some pretty great food – Stay tuned.

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Friday Foodie Link: Neue Deutsche Cuisine

One of our friends is a big proponent of German cuisine. While the Eaters have never been huge fans, we are always open to having our minds changed. One of the major problems we’ve encountered is that many German restaurants in America seems pretty stodgy and old fashioned. So it interested us to learn that German food (in Germany, at least) is undergoing a sort of renaissance. The New York Times has the details about the new wave of Teutonic cuisine.

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St. Martin: Il Nettuno

Il Nettuno
70 Grand Case Boulevard
Grand Case

At one end of French St. Martin’s restaurant row, Grand Case, are the low-key lolos. At the other end, are a variety of higher-end restaurants ranging from nouveau French to Indian to Caribbean. In the mix is Il Nettuno, a hidden gem – which turned out to be one of the best Italian meals we have had in a long while. The restaurant is in the classic trattoria model, but boasts the unusual combination of an owner who spent 25 years in America, a Caribbean location and a French wait staff. Eating at an Italian restaurant smack dab in the middle of the Caribbean was definitely an interesting experience, but it didn’t take us long to be charmed. Our Maurice Chevalier-esque maître d’ notwithstanding, one of the biggest selling points were the gorgeous views of the ocean right of the shaded deck. We arrived just at sunset, and were treated to some amazing vistas

The menu at Il Nettuno boasted a variety of Italian classics, with an emphasis on seafood dishes. It’s definitely a bit pricier than the lolos, at about 16-25 euros for most main dishes. As we were perusing the menu, we were served a free plate of delicious bruschetta on crusty French bread.

For my dinner, I selected the special of the day: lobster ravioli in vodka sauce (€17). The menu claimed that seafood was a specialty of the house, and given the location, I didn’t doubt it. The lobster was fresh and sweet and the vodka sauce was a perfect blend of cream and tomatoes. We also ordered Rigatoni freschi con prosciutto, funghi, e rucola (€17): rigatoni with mushrooms, prosciutto, garlic and butter and Fusilli con melanzane alla Siciliana Fusilli (€17): fusilli pasta with eggplant, mozzarella and Sicilian tomatoes. Both pasta dishes were generously portioned, tasty and contained absolutely fresh produce (surprising given the location).

However, we all agreed that the best dish of the bunch was my mother’s pick – the Chicken Marsala (€19) with a delicious sweet potato mash, whipped potatoes and green beans. Since we eat a certain amount of Italian food at home, one of the best judgments of quality we have – is ‘could I have made this better myself?’ My mom makes a mean Chicken Marsala, but this one was even better. The chicken was not heavy or over-breaded (as often happens) and the Marsala sauce was rich and not too salty.

To finish off the meal, we let them know that there was a birthday in the group, so they brought out a free slice of tiramisu. It just happened to work out that the birthday girl’s favorite dessert was in fact tiramisu, and it didn’t hurt that Il Nettuno makes an excellent rendition. All in all we were extremely pleased with our dinner at Il Nettuno. The ocean-side atmosphere was charming, the food excellent and the service was great. We would definitely recommend this restaurant to anyone looking for a slice of Italy with a little Caribbean touch.

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[Road Trip Eats] The One Thing We Ate in Princeton, NJ: Mac and Cheese

Small World Cafe
14 Witherspoon St.
Princeton, NJ

The mac and cheese at this place is phenomenal! Enough said.

Small World offers a wide variety of sandwiches and salads, but we did not try them. No need to, since the mac and cheese was the star attraction. The mac and cheese itself is a deceptively simple blend of curly cellentani pasta, mozzarella, gruyère and fontina cheese with a seasoned, crispy breadcrumb topping. We ended up eating two cups for lunch (one cup is $4.25/a larger bowl is $7.25). After we ordered our 2nd cup, there was only one cup left in the entire batch for the day (It was about 12:45 PM on a Wednesday at this point). As we were chowing down, we witnessed a lot of disappointed patrons who wandered in just moments too late. Sorry guys!

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Friday Foodie Links: DIY French Pastries

So France is famous for its pastries (which we can’t get enough of). We’re not going to France anytime soon, so we figured it would be a good idea to learn how to make some treats on our own to save us the airfare. For this weeks Friday foodie link we’ve rounded up some delicious sounding recipes for some of France’s most iconic desserts.

  • Madeleines [Chez Pim] – Probably the most iconic of all French delicacies, these little shell shaped cookie/cakes are baked in a specially designed pan, and are famous for their featured role in Marcel Proust’s Remembrance of Things Past (for triggering his memory).
  • Financiers [Dorie Greenspan] – These little square, almond-flavored, half-cookie half-cakes were developed in a bakery near the Parisian stock exchange, earning them their interesting name.
  • Macarons [Serious Eats] – Completely unlike the coconutty macaroons found often in America (with 2 O’s), these elegant sandwich cookies are known to come in all colors and flavors.

We’re always up for making recipes, though we less frequently make sweet items. Looks like we’ve got some good work ahead of us!

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[Road Trip Eats] Greece: Omonia Cafe

Greece Omonia Cafe
3220 Broadway
Astoria, NY 11106

Astoria in Queens, NY is known for its Greek restaurants, and M and I were treated to a tour of the main drag by our New York friends Lauren and Ryan. Omonia Cafe is one of many Greek restaurants in Astoria and has been commanding a prominent corner there since 1977. There is no way you can miss this place, especially at night, as it is covered with colorful lights and neon signs. Snagging an outside spot also makes for some good people watching, and on nice nights, the outdoor area is overflowing. The menu is huge and varied, but concentrates on Greek (no surprise there), Italian and classic American favorites. There are also several pages dedicated to desserts, but I’ll get to that later.

For an appetizer we all ordered saganaki, one of M and my favorite Greek indulgences. How can you really go wrong with fried kasseri cheese, now? Omonia delivered on this one, though it does not come to the table with the “opa!” fanfare of the Chicago Greektown restaurants. I (L) ordered homemade spanikopita spinach pie stuffed with feta. The homemade version of the pie was on the menu along side with a cheaper spanikopita that was not billed as homemade. I’m glad I went with the homemade dish – since you could really taste that it was. M ordered the Penne a la Vodka, one of his favorites. Despite coming from a Greek restaurant, their rendition of the Italian dish was solid. Lauren sampled a dish I had never seen before – Strapatsada, which were a kind of Greek scrambled egg dish mixed with feta, tomatoes, olives and oregano, with pita triangles. This new dish was intriguing to me, and if I ever come back to Omonia, it would make an awesome brunch dish.

However, the real showstopper at the Omonia Cafe is the dessert case at the adjoining bakery. My sleuthing even tells me that this bakery created the flamboyant cake for the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding. How cool is that? The desserts range from traditional Greek (Baklava and Yianniotiko – phyllo with nuts and shredded wheat) to Italian (Cannolis and Tiramisu) to plain American (Strawberry Shortcake and Jello). We tried a sampling of desserts including galactoboureko, which was a milk and honey custard baked on a phyllo crust. This unpronounceable dessert was very light, and pleasantly sweet. We also sampled a little chocolate and almond tart, which had a filling of chocolate cream and an indescribable liquor (orange? hazelnut? almond? all of the above? we have no idea). With all of the tantalizing desserts on display, hopefully we’ll be back someday to try out some more!

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Chicago to Philly Road Trip Eats

The eaters just recently completed a roadtrip for a wedding out east, and will be presenting posts over the next few weeks related to our eating adventures in Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York and New Jersey. We will be talking about a few good local pitstops, good ethnic groceries and even some new cuisines we haven’t tried out before. Stay tuned!

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St. Martin: Lolos

“Lolos” are what locals call informal outdoor barbecue restaurants, and are found all across St. Martin. Two of the most famous lolos are located in Grand Case, in the French half of the island. Grand Case is St. Martin’s restaurant row, and a single narrow street running parallel to the ocean, filled on each side with restaurants ranging from fancy to very simple. Any choice on Grand Case is probably at least solid, but some of the most popular are the lolos. The proprietors of these open-air restaurants are frequently seen pounding the pavement offering “1 dollar to 1 euro” currency conversions. Given the weakness of the dollar at the moment, that offer certainly caught our eye. However, the real draw is the laid-back atmosphere and tasty food.

Talk of the Town
Grand Case
St. Martin

The menus at Talk of the Town are displayed on wooden easels right on the sidewalk, and the delicious smell of shrimp and ribs on the grill draws passersby in. The lolo itself was a series of picnic tables covered with a canopy, adjacent to an open grill and a wooden bar. For less than ten dollars you can choose a main dish with a plate load of sides, cooked to order. I wish I had a picture of Talk of the Town itself, since it is no simple affair (we’re talking 30+ picnic tables), and is usually packed to the brim with an assortment of locals and tourists alike.

Our table ordered the Creole shrimp, Barbecue Ribs and BBQ chicken. The plate came with a heaping helping of side dishes, each of which can be ordered as a side dish for a couple of bucks. As you can see, the creole shrimp above came with a smörgåsbord of sides: a green salad, coleslaw (which was quite good and fresh), mac and cheese, red beans and rice, and spaghetti in creole sauce. The shrimp was beyond fresh, and with a beach-side location dotted with fishing and shrimping boats it’s no surprise. The ocean-fresh shrimp were well-complimented by the creole sauce, which was was a piquant blend of curry, onion, peppers, garlic, and hot sauce. The barbecue dishes were tangy and spicy with a tomato-based sauce that rivals any Southern BBQ joint. We would highly recommend Talk of the Town to anyone visiting St. Martin. It’s a unique experience with some excellent food. Beyond that, the high turnover and constant crowds assure all dishes are fresh to order.

Sky’s the Limit
Grand Case
St. Martin

Located right next to Talk of the Town, we just narrowly chose against Sky’s the Limit. Both have a similar laid-back vibe, feature open grills and outdoor seating at informal wooden booths.

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Friday Foodie Links: Eating Africa

African food, though there are pockets with a lot of good restaurants, is relatively uncommon in America. Beyond that, most African restaurants in the US feature Ethiopian or Mahgreb cuisine (which are both delicious). However, the eaters wanted to see if we could try some different African regional cuisines. Luckily both the New York Times and the Chicago Reader have made lists of the African restaurants in NYC and Chicago. In terms of places off the beaten path, NYC boast a South African restaurant, Madiba, (195 DeKalb Avenue, Fort Greene, Brooklyn). While Chicago is dominated by Ethiopian, there is also an all Ghanaian restaurant, Palace Gate (4548 N. Magnolia).

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Time for Dessert at Hot Chocolate in Chicago

Hot Chocolate
1747 N. Damen Ave.
Chicago, IL

This ultra-modern chocolate bar has the feel of sitting inside of a chocolate bar itself! Done in deep browns and creams, Mindy Segal’s restaurant has a full dinner menu, as well as the featured deserts and chocolate drinks. We weren’t really in the mood for another large meal, so we stayed in the lounge section at the front of the restaurant and sampled some of the chocolate drinks and dessert creations instead. As dessert bars usually are, this one was a bit on the pricey side. However, the delectable deserts were worth it.

Doughnuts by Stu Pivak

Doughnuts by Stu Spivak

We sampled a vanilla crème brûlée with summer berries ($11) and a “Shot of Hot Chocolate” which was a tiny, rich brownie with a shot glass of chilled hot chocolate ($4). Each was delicious, and an inventive take on a dessert classic. Other unique menu items included a platter of doughnuts with a hot chocolate dipping sauce. We also had a good sampling of chocolate-flavored alcoholic drinks such as the Chocolate Martini, with Stoli vanilla, Kahlua, Baileys and chocolate milk ($12). In this case, the alcohol tended to overpower the chocolate. Not bad, of course, if that what you’re going for. All in all, sampling the treats at Hot Chocolate is a great way to end the night and satisfy your sweet tooth. Maybe next time we will even saple some of the savory items. If you’re ever in the Wicker Park area, we recommend stopping by to at least check out the unique ambiance and delicious deserts.

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Friday Foodie Link: FXCuisine

The eaters have stumbled upon an awesome culinary site: FX Cuisine. According to the ‘about me,’ the author is a Swiss gentleman named François-Xavier (FX). The site has beautiful pictures, and interesting tales about recipes and trips across Europe, updated twice weekly. We should be so lucky to watch a Sicilian food expert make gelo di melone and visit an authentic Swiss cheese operation. Definitely a must-see site.

Also, we have just found out that ETW favorite Pasticceria Natalina is making gelo di melone for the next few weeks!

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FTC: Santander chocolate

When the World Market by me was going out of business *sniff* I stopped by one last time to scavenge. I picked up a mug and tea strainer, a tiffin box and a 70% Cacao & Espresso Coffee chocolate bar by Chocolate Santander. I am glad I did, though of course how can you go too wrong by combing two delicious flavors: dark chocolate and Colombian coffee. The dark chocolate was very smooth, and not bitter, and the coffee was not overpowering, and turned out to be a great compliment.

These artisinal bars are made in Colombia of 100% Colombian coffee and specific origin chocolate of the “Criollo” and “Trinitarian” varieties. Little did I know that Santander chocolates are made at the factory of Compañía Nacional de Chocolates, a company established in 1920. The company produces other varieties as well. Hopefully I will be able to find them elsewhere (RIP World Market)!

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Korea: Red Mango

Red Mango

809 Davis St. (This location closed, other US locations open)
Evanston, IL 60201

Red Mango is the Korean chain that kicked off the latest version of Frozen Yogurt mania. However, it was Pinkberry who really brought the Custom FroYo concept to America by ‘co-opting’ the Red Mango concept. However, Red Mango is the true original, and is increasingly bringing their treats stateside. Red Mango recently opened their first Chicagoland stores in Evanston and Naperville and the eaters were there to check out the scene on the opening day.

Keeping the look of its West-Coast stores, the Evanston Red Mango is small and modern, with only a few tables and stools. The concept is simple – pick a flavor of frozen yogurt – plain or green tea and choose an assortment of toppings, raging from fresh raspberries to Fruity Pebbles. This little number on the left is green tea with Ghirardelli chocolate chips. The yogurt is smooth and creamy, with a hint of citrusy tang (or in the case of green tea flavor – a sweet green tea kick). A small cup – seen here on the right – is $2.50 for plain and $3.50 for green tea. The toppings are $1 for one, and $1.25 for two. Though a little pricey for a daily indulgence, it’s one you don’t have to feel to guilty about at only 90 calories a serving.

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St. Martin: Patisseries

Nowhere has the St. Martin benefited from its European heritage than in its lovely patisseries. Throughout the island, little French-style boulangeries and patisseries dot the landscape, offering crusty baguettes and flaky croissants for a pittance. Especially on the French half of the island, where it is not unusual to see several of these oases on a single street. It was truly an interesting global experience, to see a little bake shop overflowing nearly onto a tropical beach! Below I talk about some of our favorite bakery experiences on the island.

Sarafina’s
Marigot
St. Martin

Sarafina’s was far and away our favorite Patisserie on the Island. It looked like it could have been teleported right off of the streets of Paris to Marigot. Sarafina’s is an open-air cafe, with a long glass pastry case along one side and a gelato case to the right side. And who could ask for more? While Sarafina’s boasted a nice variety of savory items, including a quite good chicken Panini and adorable little quiches, the pasties took the cake (no pun intended). We dropped by several times throughout our trip to sample their wares.

The tarts were to die for. For only a couple of euros (thankfully, especially with the weak dollar) you got a perfect custard filled tartlet topped with fresh strawbeeries or raspberries with a sugar glaze that managed to be perfectly sweet but not cloying. Also of note was the chocolate mille feuille. ‘Mille feuille’ means “thousand sheets” in French and this nice dessert was indeed countless sheets of pastry layered with rich chocolate cream. Despite it being upwards of 90 degrees Fahrenheit outside, we truly could not get enough of these decadent treats. The Baguettes and croissants were ludicrously cheap and delicious, at less than one euro a pop.

Piece of Cake
Plaza Del Lago, Simpson Bay
Sint Maarten

PoC is a tiny, cute sandwich shop/patisserie and gelateria in Simpson Bay. Located in an unassuming shopping mall, the little shop is unassuming by day, however, at night, the gelateria is lit by some pretty crazy Vegas-style neon signs. Taking cues from the nearby casinos (which are somewhat common on the Ducth side), PoC lights up with tons of signage including a huge ice cream cone and a gingerbread man (the logo of the store). Though they have a small selection of pastries and sandwich menu, what people come to Piece of Cake for is the gelato. They had a wide variety of Ciao Bella flavors, from Cassis to Mango to Cookies and Cream, all delicious. Even better, the shop is also open until 11 PM, making it a great post-dinner stop.

Zee Best
Plaza Del Lago, Simpson Bay
Sint Maarten

When you arrive at Zee Best in St. Martin, your table is given a basket of pastries. They don’t tell you then but A. It’s not free, and you are going to get charged for any piece you eat, and B. Everything in the basket is going to look really good, so chances are you will eat it. Not just pastries though, Zee Best offers a full breakfast menu including a plethora of choices. The omelets are tasty and generously portioned, as were the crepes. For the sweet tooths, Zee Best offers a variety of Nutella-based crepes, for those who would prefer something heartier, a basil, mozzarella and tomato crepe fits the bill.

Au Pain de Sucre
Pelican Resort Club, Simpson Bay
Sint Maarten

Off a winding road deep into resort territory – Au Pain de Sucre did a respectable job of providing a mostly-tourist crowd with solid pastries and continental breakfasts. Not much else to report, since we just popped in for a bite.

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Pan Asian cuisine in Chicago: Miss Asia

Miss Asia
434 W. Diversey Pkwy
Chicago, IL 60614

Miss Asia is a new North Side restaurant with some broad culinary ambitions – to cover nearly every country in Asia. Though the focus is on Thai food, Miss Asia boasts dishes from Malaysia, the Philippines, Korea, Japan, Laos, Vietnam, India, Indonesia, Cambodia, Singapore, Nepal, China, and Mongolia. Undeterred by Anthony Bourdain’s comment that “Asia is a big place, how are they going to do the whole thing?” (said on last season’s Top Chef) we decided that we were going to try some dishes off the non-Thai section. The size of the menu was daunting in itself, but all of the prices were very reasonable.

Anne ordered the Teriyaki Chicken off of the Japanese portion of the menu. The Teriyaki chicken ($9.95) was served on a bed of rice and veggies and was not too sweet (a good thing). I opted for the Indonesian Opor curry ($9.95). The curry itself was coconut milk-based and mild and was fragrant with lemongrass and cilantro. We were both pleased with our dishes. There is a lot of value for the price, as most dishes are under 10 or 11 dollars. Maybe we’ll be back to try some of the Thai dishes that are the restaurant’s specialty.

The place was trendy, and fancier than your typical corner Thai takeout, with bright orange walls, tables with linens and Buddha statues and wall hangings. However, when we arrived at 7, nearly the whole place was empty. However, it was the middle of a rainstorm, so that might have not been helping. Hopefully, they will be able to attract a steady clientele. Sadly, though, I don’t think I can count this restaurant on our official ETW map. Otherwise, most of Asia would be gone in one fell swoop!

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Eating St. Martin/Sint Maarten

In the next couple weeks, I (L), will be writing a comprehensive run-down of my eating experiences in St. Martin/Sint Maarten (and my day trip to St.Barths). The Caribbean island of St. Martin/Sint Maarten is unique because the North half is controlled by the French and is part of the French West Indies, while the South half is part of the Netherlands Antilles.

St. Martin Map

This means 2 languages and 2 currencies all on an island smaller than 20 square miles (I should note that the flags I used here are the locally-used flags – the Official flag of French St. Martin is simply the French flag)!

However, the island has benefited from this European culinary tradition, and many French chefs start out in St. Martin to hone their skills. Plus, of course, there was lots of excellent seafood and rich local food traditions. Stay tuned!

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Eating Global, Locally

While we love eating world cuisines, we also love buying local. Check out this great interactive map from Epicurious: A Seasonal Cooking Map. In our neck of the woods, Peppers, Corn, Watermelon and Eggplant are now in season. This should help with the recipe brainstorming.

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Japan: Sushi Blu [Closed]

Sushi Blu  [Closed]
1710 Orrington Avenue
Evanston, IL

L and I aren’t that big on sushi, but when a friend offered to take us to Blu, a visually upscale sushi bar in downtown Evanston, we couldn’t turn it down. The restaurant was empty when we entered (usually not a good sign), but were surprised by the avant-garde decorations that seem more at home in a New York or Chicago nightclub than a sushi bar.

With the upscale decor, we were shocked to realize that the $7-13 lunch specials were for an entire lunch plate, not just a single piece of sushi. L avoided the sushi route and ordered chicken bento – grilled teriyaki chicken on a rice bed, plus vegetable tempura and a salad. M decided to try the sushi (going against a number of past eating experiences) and ordered blu maki bento – 3 sushi of shrimp tempura, 3 of spicy tuna, and a small salad.

To start, both meals came with free miso soup that surpassed our expectations of what miso soup should taste like. I in particular am not a big tofu fan, but I found this miso to be flavorful and light, unlike other thicker, over-tofu-ed misos I’ve had in the past.

But our main dishes easily stole the show. The food, on both of our plates, was beautifully presented far beyond what was necessary for a relatively quick and cheap lunch order. In addition, the amount of food we received was well beyond what we anticipated (the 10 sushi I received came out to about a dollar per roll, less than a fifth of sushi prices at similar establishments.) L’s chicken avoided the over-sugared problem of other teriyakis, and balanced nicely with the veggie tempura on the side. My sushi presented something of an eating challenge (I kept the chopsticks) but had a great time experimenting with the flavor combinations of raw tuna, shrimp, ginger, wasabi, and vegetables. The sushi was tasty and filling while managing to remain subtly flavored in all the right ways.

Overall, the food was beautifully presented, filling and tasty, and unbelievably cheap both for the amount of food and especially in comparison with other sushi places, particularly when you consider its Evanston location (not exactly known for the cheap eats) as well as the interior decor. A sushi place we might actually come back to!

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Mexico Trip: Moles

L and I love moles. A Spanish corruption of a Nahua word meaning simply “sauce,” today moles span varieties as diverse as guacamole (avocado sauce), chocolate moles (great on enchiladas) and a number of other varieties less common in the United States, but still popular and widespread in Mexico. My trip gave me a chance to sample a couple of mole dishes, as well as learn a little about the sauces and their relation to Mexican culture in general.

Cafe El Popular Restaurante
Avenida Cinco de Mayo 52
México, D.F., México

While in the historic center of Mexico City, I wandered into Cafe El Popular looking for a relatively quick and cheap lunch that would still give me a chance to have some solid Mexican cooking. El Popular looked like just such a place, packed to the brim with local patrons inside a large diner that seemed more out of the 1950s than Mexico’s modern megalopolis. When I arrived around noon, the menu still leaned toward the breakfast end of things, but I managed to find mole de pollo (Chicken mole) and the menu and quickly place my order.Mole in Mexico

I had been to Mexico previously, and my trip then taught me that there is a reason the “mole” comes first in the dish’s name – the chicken is slathered in mole sauce. Not that I am complaining – smooth and chocolatey, mixing together with the rice and fall-off-the-bone chicken, a solid chocolate mole really can’t do anything wrong to a dish. Especially if it is the focal point. That being said, I did think El Popular’s addition of a copious amount of sesame seeds was a little strange, until I found the seeds being used in dishes across Mexico City. Maybe it is just a culinary fad, but I can’t say I am on board with this one. Overall, I left El Popular satisfied and eager for other moles – particularly ones that break the common chocolate-only stereotype we often find in the USA.

Restaurante Techinanco
Service Road, North of Pyramid of the Moon
Teotihuacán, Estado de México, México

The next day I went exploring in Teotihuacan, an ancient site outside of Mexico City so massive and pyramid-ridden that a few hours of walking completely wears you out. For sustenance, I made the mistake of trusting my Lonely Planet guide to direct me toward Restaurant Techinanco, which it recommended as having the best food for miles around. The writers were correct about the food, but an hour of looking for the restaurant made me realize they were wrong about the location (it is directly behind, not next to, the Pyramid of the Moon at the north end of the site).

When I finally got to Techinanco (pronounced tetch-ee-non-co), I was the only patron in the restaurant. A quick glance around gave away a few of the restaurant’s secrets – the two mushroom posters at the far end (visible in the photo) leak some of the key ingredients in a number of Techinanco’s dishes. The plethora of masks on the far wall give off a far less touristy vibe than the surrounding establishments – and the effort saved goes directly into the food.Mole in Mexico

Techinanco’s menu was small, but I made a quick decision: chicken with mole huitlacoche (also spelled cuitlacoche), a green sauce made with mushrooms and maize (wild corn). The friendly owners must have made a pot of the sauce earler in the day, as my food was served almost immediately. And it was heavenly. I can’t really say what I imagined a mushroom / corn mole sauce would taste like, but this was not it. It was almost acidic, with a sharp bite that activated my tastebuds in all the right places, then finished smooth like a good homemade pasta sauce. The finishing taste only made you eat more, and while I filled up quickly during the meal, had I had more than a few pesos in my pocket I probably would have ordered seconds. To top it off, the chicken was grilled to perfection, holding just the right amount of natural juices to let the huitlacoche work its magic. If I am ever back in Teotihuacan, I will definitely make the effort to find Techinanco again (no thanks to the Lonely Planet mapmakers!)

All in all, Mexican food once again fails to disappoint. L and I have plans to try to make our own moles (possibly an upcoming Recipe Friday?) – perhaps we can try to create my new huitlacoche favorite. I doubt it can even approach Techinanco’s creations, however. If in the meantime anyone has any Chicago-area suggestions for some authentic Mexican regional moles, we would love to hear them!

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