Tag Archives: Biscotti

Piedmontese Twisted Cookies: Torcetti

Happy Ferragosto! The August 15th Italian national holiday represents the height (or end?) of summer and has us reflecting on our favorite Italian treats. This summer we spent a good amount of time in the Northwestern Italian region of Piemonte (Piedmont in English), where we have family roots, and have been loving the process of delving into the traditional foods of the region, both savory and sweet. This Italian region is seriously into wine, chocolate, and hazelnuts (it is the home of Nutella), and has a wide and varied baking tradition. One of the cookies that is a major symbol of Piedmont is the Torcetti (or in the Piemontese language, the torcèt), a sweet, yeasted dough cookie. In some ways, Torcetti are sweet versions of the skinny and crunchy grissini breadsticks often gracing the tables of Piedmont. Like grissini, torcetti are crisp and crunchy with a slightly caramelized exterior resulting from being dipped in sugar or honey. Torcetti means “twisted” in Italian, and speak to the twisted shape of the cookie, which is often a teardrop. The torcetti are only lightly sweet and are the perfect accompaniment for tea or coffee. You can get torcetti at bakeries throughout Piedmont, and one of our favorites are the Sangiorgesi torcetti at Pasticceria Roletti in the small town of San Giorgio Canavese (torcetti pictured below), which has been operating since 1896. If you would like to make your own, Sugar Loves Spices has a recipe.

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Fave Dei Morti: Italian cookies for All Souls’ / All Saints’ Day

Just when I think I have run out of special foods to celebrate All Saints’ / Souls’ Day, I turn up one more variation. This year I learned about Fave dei Morti (literally “Fava Beans of the Dead”) which are central Italian cookies shaped like beans, traditionally eaten on All Saints’ Day / Ognissanti (Nov 1) or All Souls’ Day / Festa dei Morti (Nov 2). I have seen the origin of the name described as referring to the shape of the cookie, serving as representations of food offered to the dead, or symbolizing the longstanding mythical connection between beans and death. Whichever version is true, these bean-free cookies are made with almonds, and are often flavored with rum and cinnamon, a flavor profile similar to Ossi Dei Morti. There are many regional variations, and the cookies may be soft or crunchy, and in the north of Italy, they also may be made with colored dough. You can check out Emiko Davies’ recipe from Food 52 that comes directly from Pellegrino Artusi’s influential 1891 cookbook (pictured above). For other recipe variations, see Katie Parla, Italian Kiwi and The Languages Kitchen.

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