Tag Archives: Brazil

Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Tacacá do Norte

Tacacá do Norte
Rua Barão do Flamengo, 35
Flamengo, Rio de Janeiro

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Our trip to Rio de Janeiro introduced us to the Northern style of açaí popular in Pará. Tacacá do Norte, named for the unique Northern Brazilian soup, “Tacacá,” is tucked away on a quiet street in the residential neighborhood of Flamengo. Tacacá do Norte is a small diner-like affair, with seats wrapping around a circular counter. The menu is small, and the sign advertises “Sucos e Artigos de Belém do Pará (Juices and articles from Belém in Pará)” which includes northern favorites like Tacacá soup, casquinha de siri and of course açaí (in either 400 or 600 ML bowls). There was also a small section of Northern goods for sale, including the classic cuia gourd bowls for serving Tacacá.

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A view of Tacacá do Norte

Value: 1/5. Our heaping bowl was very generous for R$ 14 for 400mL and R$ 16 for 600mL. It should also be noted that the restaurant is cash-only.

Taste: 15/15. There was pure açaí flavor at Tacacá do Norte – but they pre-added the sugar for us! This was awesome – since at Barraca do Pará we always felt we had too much or too little when we mixed in our own sweetener. At Tacacá do Norte the sweetness level was just right!

Texture: 10/10. The açaí at Tacacá do Norte had the best texture we experienced anywhere. It did not melt at all, and was smooth and creamy throughout.

Acai at Tacaca do Norte

Açaí at Tacacá do Norte

Granola: 5/5. The topping was, no surprise, tapioca. It came in a pour container and was the best tapioca of the bunch so far.

Extras: 5/5. There was a very friendly atmosphere at Tacacá do Norte: bustling environment, convenient seating, Amazonian menu, unlimited toppings and 2 spoons – we’re in love!

TOTAL: 36/40 Tacacá do Norte takes the lead with a strong showing.

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Pioneiro dos Sucos

Pioneiro dos Sucos
Av. Treze de Maio, 23
Rio de Janeiro

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In the heart of Centro (our neck of the woods) we visited Pioneiro dos Sucos, which is a really basic, local, stand-up only açaí place, mentioned on Todo Rio. The juice bar always seemed to be full of locals and office workers so we figured it certainly would be worth a try. This type of simple stand-up juice bar is prolific in Centro. People go to these kinds of places to get a cafezinho or a juice and snack before/after work and at lunchtime. There are also sandwiches and more substantial items, but the majority of people just grab a snack and go.

Value: 5/5. Açaí was $5.80 for a 300 mL cup – with R$1 extra for granola. This was the cheapest price so far for a 300 mL cup in Rio. No complaints so far.

Pioneiro dos Sucos

Pioneiro dos Sucos in downtown Rio de Janeiro

Taste: 10/15. Pioneiro do Sucos had a nice açaí flavor with a generous mix of fruits (probably strawberries and blueberries).

Texture: 7/10. The açaí had a decent texture, but tended towards icy and a little grainy.

Granola: 0/5. This is where our visit screeched to a halt. Now this was definitely a basic type of place, so we went in with modified expectations. However, everything went sour when we found a small black bug (beetle-ish) in our cup of granola. Gross! We stopped eating the granola right there, hoping it was a fluke. We figured the bug could have flown in from the street. However, we then discovered a SECOND bug deep in our cup of granola. That was it for us.

Pioneiro dos Sucos Acai

Pioneiro dos Sucos Açaí Cup

Extras: 0/5. So we were prepared for the lack of seating and bowls, and receiving no spoon, however the unclean atmosphere ruined the experience for us. Bugs in granola = bad vibes.

TOTAL: 22/40 – Probably best avoided.

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Food for the Orixás in Salvador

On Saturday, we had the honor of being invited to the to the Ilê Axé Ijino Ilu Orossi, a temple (ilê axé) of candomblé nagô, an Afro-Brazilian religion closely related to the religious practices of the Yorùbá people of southwest Nigeria and Benin. The Saturday before Easter is one of the most important dates in the candomblé calendar: this day celebrates the new year with the Festa de Exu, a day-long celebration for Exu, the orixá (deity) of choices, pathways, and beginnings. At Orossi, the Festa de Exu is a lavish affair: a packed house, dressed all in white, dances and sings for six hours while navigating their way around spectacular offering altars and assemblages. Food and eating are important parts of the ceremony, and we were happy to take part!

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Two female initiates (ekedi) standing in front of offerings for Exu, including mini acarajé.

In a candomblé ceremony, it is just as important to feed your guests, and all attendees, as it is to feed the orixás. While Exu was very hungry on this day – he received extensive offerings of alcohol and meat – guests all received food as well, and enough to last us all day. Shortly after the first round of offerings to Exu, all guests seated in the audience section were invited to the main floor of the axé to receive a portion of abará, a dish resembling a tamale. Abará is a classic Afro-Brazilian dish and frequently used in candomblé  ceremonies as a food sacred to the orixás. It consists of bean curd mixed with dendê oil, wrapped in a banana leaf, and steamed (the same base as acarajé, the other classic Afro-Brazilian dish, but acarajé is fried instead of steamed). Abará, like acarajé, is very filling, and we had to force ourselves to finish just one by the time attendees came around to collect our used banana leaves.

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M’s unwrapped abará.

After everyone had eaten their abará, the ceremony entered its most exciting part. We once had a friend describe a candomblé ceremony as a party for all the gods where all the gods actually show up, and it’s true. On this day, three orixás arrived to interact with attendees and dance with initiates: Pomba Gira, a female version of Exu who loves to smoke and drink; Iemanjá, the orixá of the deep sea and motherhood; and Ogum, orixá of iron and war. After the orixás had come and gone, and while we were still full from our abará, two men brought out a huge metal pot of feijoada – more than enough to serve the fifty people in attendance with a bunch left over.

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As always, guests were invited up first: we were given a decorated ceramic bowl, and then guided up to the ekedi who served us a heaping bowl of feijoada. That’s not all: out of nowhere appeared a buffet of accompaniments: rice, tomatoes, lettuce, green peppers, and pimenta malagueta: a sauce of flavored spices and famously hot malagueta peppers that is the classic accompaniment to any Bahian dish, but definitely not for the faint of heart. While we are not usually big fans of feijoada, this was excellent: beans, pork, and chicken cooked to perfection in a flavorful sauce, and the fresh veggie accompaniments and pimenta made for a very satisfying and filling meal. After six hours of exhausting singing and dancing, finishing off the feijoada put everyone into a food coma, and all the initiates in the house concluded the day by sleeping on the temple floor. A great end to a beautiful day of food and celebration for the orixás!

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M’s feijoada, complete with three spoonfuls of pimenta – apparently a record!

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Barraca do Pará

Barraca do Pará
Feira de São Cristóvão
Rio de Janeiro

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We had our first experience with Northern-style açaí at Amazônia Soul in Ipanema, and we were hooked. When we visited the Feira de São Cristóvão, a fair full of Northeastern Brazilian culture, music and food, we were expecting carne-de-sol and other savory northern specialties, but somehow didn’t think about açaí.  However, we were overjoyed to stumble across Barraca do Pará in the labyrinthine Feira. As its name implies, this little restaurant specialized in cuisine from the northern Brazilian state of Pará, such as Tacacá or Vatapá, along with delicious Northern-style açaí. We actually visited this Barraca on two separate occasions and we were pleased by the quality and consistency each time.

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The state flag of Pará greets you at Barraca do Pará

Value: 0/5. Our heaping bowl was very generous for R$ 15.

Taste: 14/15. Again, the açaí at Barraca do Pará had very strong flavor, similar to what we had at Amazônia Soul. This is pure açaí, with none of the fruit blend at Southern-style places. In order to get the desired sweetness, you were given a large tub of sugar, and you added your own amount. Regrettably, we never really reached the perfect sweetness level.

Acai at Barraca do Pará

Amazonian Acai at Barraca do Para – add your own tapioca and sugar

Texture: 10/10. The açaí had an amazing texture. Absolutely no melting, even when we got to the bottom of the bowl.

Granola: 5/5. Again, we opted for the tapioca as the açaí topping, which was excellent. We also loved that the tapioca came to the table in a giant pouring container, so you can add all you want.

Extras: 5/5. There was tons of seating, a full menu of Paraense cuisine, unlimited toppings and 2 spoons – we’re in love!

TOTAL: 34/40 –  A very good showing. This is our favorite Northern-style place yet.

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Easter in Brazil: Ovos de Páscoa

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We absolutely love Easter candy, a particular favorite being Reese’s Peanut Butter Eggs. However, in Brazil we have discovered a new Easter obsession that dwarfs Reese’s Eggs in every sense: giant chocolate eggs! In the US we have seen chocolate rabbits, chicks, and miniature eggs but the chocolate Ovos de Páscoa (Easter Eggs) in Brazil put them all to shame. We saw these big chocolate eggs all around town, including grocery stores, newsstands and chocolate shops (such as the chain Cacau Show).

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A large Ovo de Pascoa – filled with Ferrero Rocher truffles

In the grocery store, in preparation for Easter, trellises were set up and were completely covered with wrapped eggs from different brands. Sizes of the Ovos ranged from a few inches to over a foot tall – with some costing as much as US$50. These eggs are not just solid (or hollow) chocolate – they are filled with other chocolates or creams. For example, the egg in the photo above is stuffed with truffles. Check out some of these exotic Chocolate Easter Eggs varieties (in Portuguese, but the pictures say it all).

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A trellis of Ovos de Pascoa at Zona Sul Supermarket in Rio de Janeiro

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Polis Sucos (updated)

Polis Sucos
Rua Maria Quitéria, 70
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

brazilNow that we are back in Brasil our açaí quest has been renewed with full force. Though there were a variety of options for açaí in Salvador, Rio is really the place for the açaí-lover. There is a juice bar on nearly every corner, and some of the most famous açaí shops are located throughout the Zona Sul beach area. We did a little research beforehand, and compiled a list of açaí places to try. First on our list: Polis Sucos. Polis Sucos is one of the most popular places for juices and açaí in Rio; and the Ipanema location is the most famous.

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You can spot the distinctive Polis Sucos corner store from blocks away, and when we approached the place was already full! The counter was stocked with fresh fruit, and the menu is appropriately composed of mainly fruit juices, smoothies (vitaminas and batidosand açaí blends. Polis Sucos is conveniently located right next to an Italian gelato place if you want to follow up on your açaí with another sweet treat …maybe next time. 

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Visit 1: Polis Sucos Batido (granola mixed in)

Value: 3/5 We got an açaí granola cup for R$11.50, for 500 ml.

Taste: 15/15. This açaí was easily one of the best we have had, anywhere in Brazil. It had great açaí flavor without being too sweet, with just the right amount of berries mixed in.

Texture: 9/10. Polis had an excellent, smooth texture that held up well, even with a little melting. We had previously ordered a batido – which meant the açaí was blended with granola, which had an excellent texture. We decided to try it this time non blended – and the texture was still great.

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Visit 2: Polis Sucos, Not Blended

Granola: 5/5. The cup came with standard-issue granola (no extra charge), which came in a separate plastic cup.

Extras: 2/5. This was a mixed bag. In addition to the range of juices, there are other more savory option like sandwiches and hamburgers (cheesefrangocheddaregg, etc), so you are set for choice.  However, Polis Sucos is a popular place, and there is no seating, so prepare to stand, unless you can squeeze into one of the surrounding benches that are shared by Polis Sucos and the gelato place next door. There were also no bowls of – only cups.

TOTAL: 34/40 – Polis is our front-runner so far. We enjoyed our açaí at Polis, and it is definitely worth a trip if you are in Ipanema.

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Amazônia Soul

Amazônia Soul
Rua Teixeira de Melo, 37
Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro

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So we consider ourselves at this point to be (sort of) açaí experts, but we were totally floored by our completely different experience at Amazônia Soul in Ipanema, right off of Praça General Osório. Northern açaí is completely different from its Southern variety since the emphasis is on pure açaí flavor. Amazônia Soul is a store concept from the northern state of Pará – and along with delicious Northern-style açaí – it also has a selection of typical Northern dishes including tacacá, crab and maniçoba and Nothern-style feijoada. Don’t forget to wash your meal down with a Guaraná Jesus – a popular regional soda brand. The store itself is very inviting – with a distinctive abstract frog mascot (we think it is a frog) and a little shop inside selling Amazonian products including jarred sweets, ceramics, stoneware and jewelry.

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Value: 0/5 Our pequena small bowl was definitely less than 500 mL (we think it was 300 mL), and it was extremely expensive. Total: R$ 16. We had a little bit of sticker shock on this one.

Taste: 12/15. Amazônia Soul presented us with the purest açaí flavor yet. Northern style açaí is simply açaí and ice, instead of an açaí/berry/ice blend which we have come to learn is standard at most Zona Sul places. The taste of pure açaí is extremely strong, and not necessarily sweet, so it is typical to add your own sugar to the bowl. At Amazônia Soul you are given sugar packets to sweeten things up.

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Texture: 10/10. Perfectly smooth, this açaí did not melt at all. It also seemed like there was less ice in this formulation – which means less melting.

Granola: 5/5. In this case the topping was not granola at all – but a bowl of puffed tapioca – which is standard for Northern-style açaí. There was a surcharge for the toppings of $R 2. Though we think we prefer granola over tapioca, we felt we had to go for the authentic experience.

Extras: 5/5. There was a nice indoor seating area, along with wooden tables outside. A plus – we got two spoons on the first try.

TOTAL: 32/40 – Again the value hurt them, but there was a narrow lead.

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Mineira Cuisine in Mariana: Rancho Restaurante

Rancho Restarante 
Praca Gomes Freire, 108 – Centro
Mariana, Minas Gerais

brazilThough our first post from Ouro Preto was about a decidedly non-traditional pizza place in Ouro Preto, our second meal in Minas Gerais was much more traditional. Throughout its history, Minas Gerais was home to many gold/diamond mining booms (the name means “General Mines”), so it occupies a similar place in Brazilian lore as the “Wild West” does in the USA. However, unlike the chuckwagons on the Wild West, people are really into Mineira food in Brazil, and it is considered the classic kind of Brazilian “home cooking.” We were very curious to try some down-home Minerira food, so we were happy when we stumbled upon Rancho Restaurante (“The Ranch”) in Mariana – a small town outside of Ouro Preto.

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Rancho is done up in a sort of faux pioneering style – and it serves heaps of Mineira food in an all you can eat buffet (R$ 18 person). Mineira food is often traditionally cooked and served in stone vessels – and we were pleased to see the wood-burning buffet area full of stone pots of food. All of the Mineira favorites were on display: chicken and quiabo (okra), couve mineira (kale), tutu de feijão (bean and meat stew), roast pork, roast pumpkin, veggie omelettes, a variety of soups, sausage and rice, fish croquettes, farofa and spicy spaghetti with dende oilThere was also a small salad bar off to the side, though most of the offerings were slathered in mayo – save for a nice carrot salad. However, we have one major knock against the restaurant: no pão de queijo. Come on, this is unforgivable!

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We filled our plates twice with all of the food from the buffet, trying to sample as much as we could. Of our picks, the chicken and okra was a standout, it turned out to be one of our favorite preparations of okra, a veggie we usually find to be too gooey. The couve mineira (garlic-spiked kale) and stewed pumpkin were also delicious. The meal was a pretty stick-to-your ribs simple affair, something which characterizes Mineria cuisine, and it seemed to be a favorite among locals. After we arrived, Rancho gradually filled up with families and office workers on lunch break, and there was constantly a line for the buffet. Rancho was a great place for hearty Mineira cuisine with no frills, and gives you a taste of typical local fare with no touristy concessions.

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The Best Pizza in Ouro Preto: O Passo

Pizzaria O Passo 
Rua São José 56
Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais, Brazil

brazilItalySo of course, after singing the praises of Mineira cuisine, the first food post of our food adventures in Minas Gerais is the decidedly non-Mineiro pizza! But no worries, even though pizza is an import to Brazil, Brazilians have latched onto it – and O Passo does an excellent rendition of pizza. We decided we needed more of a leisurely meal after walking down the grueling hills of Ouro Preto, and O Passo was consistently referenced as one of the best restaurants in Ouro Preto. The stock in trade at O Passo is pizza – though there are a variety of other Italian specialties – including a large assortment of antipasti, pastas and Italian wines.

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The setting of O Passo is great – with a nice little terrace overlooking the botanic gardens (which are unfortunately closed). The pizzas come in 3 sizes – Individual, Medium and Large. The individual is roughly plate-sized and had 4 slices. Each was more than big enough for each of us (R$ 28 per individual pizza). There were 4 full pages of pizza flavors ranging from classic Italian combinations as Margherita and Quattro Formaggi as well as Brazilian flavors like Minas cheese and Frango & Catupiry.

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M selected a (slightly) healthier riff on the quattro formaggi – the quattro tomate – which came topped with mozzarella, sundried tomatoes, tomato sauce, heirloom tomatoes and roma tomatoes. All the toppings were fresh; with the heirloom tomatoes still sweet and the sundried ones with a great flavor. L picked a cheesier variety with a Mineiro touch: Minas cheese and Buffalo Mozzarella with roasted garlic and fresh basil. Before too long, our pizzas arrived piping hot to our tables. They had more of a cracker-style crust unlike the Neapolitan style of pizza with a more leavened and bubbly dough. We were big fans of these pizzas – especially the crunchy crusts and generous toppings.  All told, about US$30 for two excellent pizzas in a beautiful terrace in this great colonial town? It wasn’t Mineira cuisine, but it is all the more reason to visit Ouro Preto.

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A Trip to Ouro Preto and the Cuisine of Minas Gerais/Comida Mineira

We are going to the historic town of Ouro Preto for a few days and are excited to try the food of the state of Minas Gerais first-hand. Mineiro cuisine is considered some of the best and most “Brazilian” in Brazil, and it is widely lauded and replicated throughout the country. Minas Gerais is the home of one of our all-time favorite Brazilian foods – Pão de Queijo – but that is just scratching the surface. Other famous Mineira foodstuffs include: Minas cheese, Couve Mineira (Mineran Kale), Frango com Quiabo (chicken with okra), Feijão Tropeiro (meat, beans and rice) and many more. Hopefully we will have some tales of delicious Mineira food to share.

Ouro Preto

The town of Ouro Preto

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Pastry Post-Doc in Brazil: Alfenim

brazil748px-Flag_of_the_Azores.svgWe were totally overwhelmed by the amount of amazing food at the Mercado São Cristóvão in Rio. The market is home of food, music and products from the Northeast of Brazil [full post coming soon]. We saw tons of regional sweet items we had not encountered before – many based on tapioca. However, our attention was caught by one particular sugary item that was so unusual it stumped the store clerks where we purchased it: Alfenim. Alfenim (plural alfenins) is a type of sugar paste candy made from sugar, vinegar, honey (sometimes) and butter. I have seen the translation of Alfenim somewhere as “taffy” but the kind we bought was quite hard. We bought some in “rock” form, however, sometimes it comes in fanciful shapes and forms, similar to elaborate Marzipan (see below). Alfenim was bought to Brazil and the Azores by the Portuguese. However, Alfenim is originally thought to be of Arab origin, with the name coming from “al-fenid” meaning white target. Here is a recipe for Alfenins (in Portuguese), both traditional and chocolate.

Alfenim in the shape of a dove

Alfenim in the shape of a dove by Jean Marconi

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Kicê Sucos

Kicê Sucos
Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, 1033
Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro

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Our search for the perfect açaí bowl continued in the beachy Zona Sul area of Rio de Janeiro. We heard that Kicê Sucos served tasty açaí in a laid-back setting in Copacabana, so we quickly added it to our list.  Kicê Sucos had more of an old-school vibe, unlike the slicker Polis Sucos and Bibi Sucos. Like Polis Sucos, Kicê is located on the corner of the street, with a counter wrapping around a semi-circular space. We were heartened to see the piles of fruit on display (as must, as we have learned). Omnivores will also be well taken care of due to the expanded menu of sandwiches.

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Value: 1/5. Our bowl was generously sized, and cost R$12, with a R$2 extra charge for granola. It seems that most of the suco places in the Zona Sul beach area always charge extra for granola – just something we will have to get used to…unfortunately. Total: R$ 14.00.

Taste: 11/15. The bowl had a nice açaí flavor, with possibly some strawberries added in, but not as much açaí flavor as at Bibi Sucos.

Texture: 7.5/10. Overall the texture of this açaí bowl was pretty good, though a little gritty. Unfortunately the bowl melted very quickly.

Granola: 4/5. The granola came in a separate cup as seems to be the usual in Rio – but there were no cashews – disappointing the cashew-fiend M.

Extras: 4/5. Kicê Sucos has an extensive menu with many sandwich options, and a full line of juices, including our enigmatic favorite clorofila. There was only counter seating available (or to go of course), and we were lucky enough to get seats, but many weren’t. As a plus – they gave us two spoons. 

TOTAL: 27.5/40 – Pretty good, but not enough for the value.

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The Mystery of Clorofila juice solved?

Clorofila

brazilIn Salvador da Bahia we tried a mysterious green liquid called “clorofila (chlorophyll)” at a juice bar that tasted somewhat unpleasantly like green bubblegum. However we have not been able to decode exactly what it was, or if the shocking green color was the result of a natural ingredient or dye. However we think we have decoded one of the major ingredients which would indeed give a natural green color – wheatgrass! We saw the sign below at Kice Sucos in Copacabana, which advertised Clorofila as a wheatgrass drink (broto do trigo). Though the drink we had in Bahia was surely mixed with other fruits and juices (as is advertised here), we now know why it was green. Thanks, Kice Sucos!

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Brazil: Classic Salgadinhos at Bar Urca

Bar Urca
Rua Cândido Gaffrée, 205 – Urca
Rio de Janeiro

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Walking around the quiet street at the base of Sugarloaf, you can tell you are approaching Bar Urca not by the smells, but by the people. The entire concrete waterfront wall is covered with easygoing Cariocas enjoying greasy snacks and cold beer. These are Bar Urca’s stock in trade, as is its view, overlooking Urca beach on Guanabara bay. There are no tables here: Bar Urca itself is only a walkup counter in a corner building, though there is a bigger restaurant that serves a variety of seafood dishes.

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The Interior at Bar Urca (squint and you can see the menu)

The assortment of salgadinhos (salty snacks) offered was wide: and included mainly cheese and seafood options. The options are listed on a tiny bulletin board on the back of the bar, not in the case itself. Good luck being able to read, or even see, the menu. Instead, ask the staff: we asked around, and the shrimp and crab dishes came especially highly reccomended. We ordered 3 salgadinhos for about 15 Reais apiece: the Shrimp Empada, the Pastel de Queijo (cheese) and the Pastel de Siri (Crab). The two pasteis were like little tarts, and the empada was a folded pocket of fried dough – a Brazilian empanada.

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Bar Urca Salgadinhos by the water

The empada was the standout, and it was perfectly hot and flaky. Despite being in a pastry crust, the shrimp seemed fresh. The queijo pastel was a little more forgettable, but the Siri was also delicious, and had a hint of palm oil which gave it a Bahian flavor. We sat on the rock wall and enjoyed our treats as we anticipated the sunset. Though the salgadinhos are good, the best part about Bar Urca is its view, so make sure you are there on a clear day.

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The View at Bar Urca, Rio de Janeiro

 

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Pastry Post-Doc: Limonada Suíça / Swiss Lemonade

brazilThere is a heatwave going on right now in Rio de Janeiro, and it is pretty hot, even for the always-balmy Brazil (think 40 degrees Celsius – 104 degrees Fahrenheit). One delicious drink to enjoy on a particularly hot summer day in Brazil is Limonada Suíça (Swiss Lemonade). Don’t let the name fool you: it is actually a lime-aid, made with limes, sugar and condensed milk. Part of the confusion over the name comes from the fact that the Portuguese word limão can refer to various citrus fruits – including both yellow lemons (limão Siciliano), and also what people in the USA would call conventional green limes (limão Tahiti). In any case, we like green limes more that yellow lemons, so we are fans of this drink. Brazilians are fond of condensed milk, and even though it may seem like an unconventional choice for a beverage, the sum is definitely greater than the parts, and the drink is pleasingly tart, even despite its sugary ingredients. There are a few different varieties of Limonada Suíça you might try, including the classic with condensed milk, or a fizzy version with carbonation.

Limonada Suica and Croissant

Limonada Suíça and Chocolate Croissants at Confeitaria Manon in Rio de Janeiro

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: Bibi Sucos (Leblon)

Bibi Sucos
Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 591A – Leblon
Rio de Janeiro

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Bibi Sucos, located just past the Leblon/Ipanema border in Rio’s south zone, is an inviting place for sucos in an area of the city full of choices (Bibi has a few other locations in the city, including Barra). With an extensive menu of juices, sandwiches, and other options, it seems to be as great of a meal spot as an açaí destination. L&M, spending the day in Leblon, felt Bibi Sucos was worth a stop – our second in our quest to find the best açaí bowl in Rio! After some initial confusion over the menu – which does not denote mL sizes for the bowls – we settled on a pequena, whose size, as seen below, does not really fit with the name.

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Value: 1/5 Our pequena (by the look of it, about 500 mL, or more) was R$12.50, with a R$2 extra charge for granola. The extra granola charge put us off a bit, and raised the price. Total: R$ 14.50.

Taste: 12/15. Very good. Our açaí had a tasty açaí flavor with a few added fruits, but had the tendency to be slightly bitter in places.

Texture: 8/10. Overall smooth, but had hints of graininess that could have been worked out. Sometimes the graininess can be a good thing, but if it gets hints of gritty, we find it to be a turnoff.

Granola: 5/5. In a separate cup with cashew bits? Five points!

Extras: 5/5. Great other factors at Bibi. Extensive outdoor seating for a sucos places, along with refreshingly prompt service. The menu, in addition to an impressive range of açaí add-ons and sizing options, had a wide range of sandwiches, burgers, omelets, and salads available (all of which looked delicious). Best part: this was the first place to give us two spoons without us asking for them! 

TOTAL: 31/40 – Good enough for the smallest of leads over Vero Suco, our go-to place in Centro.

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Lunar New Year in Liberdade, São Paulo

JapanbrazilToday is Lunar New Year – the welcoming the year of the snake. Fact of the day: Brazil has a substantial East Asian population, including the largest population of Japanese-descended persons outside Japan. São Paulo in particular is a major Japanese-Brazilian (nikkei) center, with Japanese cultural heritage on full display in São Paulo’s Liberdade neighborhood (which means “freedom” in Portuguese). Though originally settled by the Japanese, today the area is also home to many recent Chinese and Korean immigrants. Due to this, Liberdade is a great place to experience Lunar new year!  In 2011, 200,000 people attended new years celebrations in Liberdade alone.

LiberdadeNewYear

Chinese New Year Celebration in Liberdade, 2008 by Bianca Bueno

Liberdade is a very cool place, marked by its distinctive red lamp posts and a red Japanese gate (torii) at the entrance to the main street. We visited Liberdade in 2012, right after new year, but the place was still hopping. The neighborhood is also famous for its weekend street fairs, which are full of food, and bring out Paulistanos from all areas of the city. On any day of the week you can get some of the best yakisoba , bubble tea and gyoza in Liberdade. In many other Brazilian cities, Japanese food is quite expensive, but Paulistanos have the pick of any range of restaurants. There is even a dedicated Sake shop!

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Streets in Liberdade, Sao Paulo by Márcio Cabral de Moura

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Finding the Best Açaí in Rio de Janeiro: The Rating Scale

brazilIt’s no secret that we love ranking our food finds, from the best macarons in Paris, to the best Pasteis de Nata in Lisbon. Now that we are in Brazil, our attentions have turned to Açaí – the delightful slushy-like creations made from frozen Açaí berry and topped with fresh fruit and granola. We rated our favorite Açaí bowls in  Salvador previously, but we have many more options in Rio de Janiero, so figured we would  try to standardize our ratings. After a little consideration, we decided to rate the Açaí bowls on the following parameters:

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Açaí from Vero Suco with a cup of granola – a nice extra!

Value: Out of 5. The typical price for an Açaí na Tigela ranges from 6 to 10 Reais for a bowl (typically 500 mL). You get points based on your cost: Below R$8 = 5/5; 8-9.99 = 4; 10-11.99 = 3; 12-13.99 = 2; 14-15.99 = 1; 16 and above = 0.

Taste: Out of 15. It has to taste good – and taste like Açaí rather than a random fruit blend.

Texture: Out of 10. Açaí should be smooth, and not grainy, watery or icy (and we have had all of these)

Granola: Out of 5. Quantity and quality of granola, a very underrated aspect of the Açaí bowl!

Extras: Out of 5. This is a somewhat more intangible category. For example – do they give you spoons (sometimes this doesn’t happen)? Is the setting decent? Can you sit or do you have to stand?

So here we go – hopefully by the end of our stay here we will have some definitive results for the best Açaí in Rio. Anyone have any recommendations for us to try?

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Pastry Post-Doc in Brazil: Macarons in São Paulo

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Brazilians have such a large variety of homegrown sweets, there isn’t much of a need to import foreign pastries. However, now macarons have made it to Brazil. Folie, in São Paulo is offering up a huge variety of macaron flavors, including some in  a collection called, Da vovó (“From grandma”) which are  inspired by Brazilian flavors like Brigadeiro and Beijinho. We are glad to hear that macarons are making their way to Brazil. Now we really could move here!

folie macarons

Macaons at Folie in São Paulo – Via Cool Hunting

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Brazil: Acarajé at the Feira Hippie in Ipanema

Feira Hippie
Praça General Osório, Ipanema
Rio de Janeiro

brazilOne of our favorite treats in Bahia was acarajé, fried chickpea fritters.  You can find acarajé stand on nearly every corner in Salvador da Bahia, however it is a little rarer in Rio de Janeiro. But fear not, we found a place to get our acarajé fix. There is an acarajé stand at the Feira Hippie “Hippy Market” in Praça General Osório, Ipanema, Sundays until 5 PM. While the main stock in trade at the Feira is clothing, bags and souvenirs, we were on a mission for another good for sale: acarajé. There are two acarajé stands bordering the feira, and we patronized the one closer to the beach, since it seemed to be doing brisker business. The stand itself is only there for the feira, but there is a complete setup – including the requisite vats of hot oil for frying the fritters. Each acarajé costs R$ 8 ($4 US), which would be considered highway robbery in Bahia. 

Acaraje

A Taste of Bahia in Rio

However, due to our hankering for acarajé, we thought it would be worth it for a splurge. Even compared to the acarajé in Bahia, we thought the Rio rendition was extremely delicious, and it was fresh out of the fryer. Along with the acarajé, you can get the traditional topping of peppers, salad and vatapá (a sort of condiment with shrimp and palm oil). The vatapá was fresh and we loved the fresh cilantro in the salad topping. So it may cost you double of those in Bahia, but Cariocas have a place to get an acarajé fix.

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