When we lived in Chicago, we were lucky to have easy access to an authentic Georgian bakery with a huge oven in the center (RIP Argo Bakery). When we moved, of course, we lost access to those lovely Georgian breads. So, we were delighted when several friends independently suggested we try out a Georgian restaurant while we were visiting NYC, Chama Mama. There are a few locations of Chama Mama, and we visited the one on the Upper West Side (373 Amsterdam Ave). The restaurant had a modern, buzzy vibe and boasted the Georgian alphabet on the wall in neon. Bread is the heart of Georgian cuisine, so we were so glad to see the restaurant anchored by an amazing oven, called a Tone, analogous to a Tandoor oven.
Unsurprisingly, the menu highlighted bread at every turn. Our group started out with the “Taste of Georgia” platter, which included a series of walnut and chopped vegetable based dips called Pkhali: carrot, spinach, eggplant, red kidney bean, and Georgian leafy greens (ekala). Accompanying the pkhali were small rolls that were hot out of the oven, and smoked Georgian cheese. The pkhali were simply delightful, with complex flavors and a richness from the walnuts, which somewhat reminded us of Muhammara (Roasted Red Pepper Dip).
The mains were also bread-focused, including one of the most symbolic dishes of Georgian cuisine, the boat-like Khachapuri, topped with an egg. However, we learned that this style with the egg on top is typical of the Adjara region, and is only one of many regional variations. Chama Mama had other regional Khachapuri versions on offer, including the closed Calzone-like version from the Imereti region. Another classic main course was a tray of Khinkali dumplings (beef/pork, lamb, or mushroom), available either steamed or pan-fried. As part of the lunch special, we sampled small versions of the puri gulani (beef/pork, beans, or cheese) filled puff pastry, along with a small side salad. The bread was light and flaky, and not oily at all, despite the somewhat heavy filling, a real feat.
Chama Mama also offered an extensive list of Georgian wines, and chacha, a grape-based spirit. For other tastes, the restaurant concocted a series of nice mocktails, which our group appreciated, particularly the Figgin Fresh, composed of fig syrup, Earl Grey tea, and lemon juice. Chama Mama was a perfect place to visit after an afternoon at the American Museum of Natural History. Also, importantly for our group that day, Chama Mama is a great place to bring vegetarians, with many creative options. There is also a nice outdoor seating area for nicer weather (certainly not true in February). We can’t wait to go back and try more fresh-from-the-oven bread!
Eating The World 