One of the last places you might expect to find a restaurant with cuisine from the small west African nation of Togo is in coastal Maine, but sure enough, that is where you will find Mé Lon Togo (10 Leland Street, Rockland, Maine). The restaurant – whose name translates to “I Love Togo” – is run by a percussionist from Togo who teaches music at Colby College (roughly 1.5 hours away), Jordan Benissan, explaining its somewhat perplexing location. Mé Lon Togo restaurant is set up in an old colonial house, and the restaurant fits neatly into the warren of rooms on the first floor. While we were there, there was even live musical entertainment, contributing to the warm atmosphere within.
Mé Lon Togo offers only a prix fixe menu ($40 per person) for dinner on Thursday through Sunday. However, this format is not limiting. When we visited, there were a staggering amount of main course options, spanning Togolese cuisine; as well as French dishes (showing the French influence on Tologese cuisine and language) like Duck de Provence, Coq au Vin and Beef Bourguignon; and selections from other parts of Africa: a Moroccan chicken tajine and Ghanaian/Nigerian Jollof Rice. The primary Togolese dishes on the menu are designated by the name Dessi: Fetri Dessi, Deku Dessi, Gusi Dessi (similar to Egusi stew, made with melon seeds), and Azi Dessi. There are options for all tastes, including a vegan option in the signature Mi Lon Togo stew with mushrooms, plantains, and eggplant. The restaurant also features a bar with a range of signature cocktails, beer, and even tea.
For appetizers, there were 2 options on the prix fixe menu when we visited: Dje te & Amada, a sweet potato and plantain dish with a tomato, onion and apple cider vinegar sauce, and gari fotu, manioc grits with egg and shrimp in a tomato sauce. You also got a small garden salad with each meal. For mains, we ordered the Azi Dessi and the Deku Dessi. The Azi Dessi was chicken in a peanut and tomato sauce, reminiscent of some of the other West African peanut stews we have had in the past, with notes of garlic, ginger, and a peppery kick. The Deku Dessi was your choice of protein (beef/chicken/eggplant) in a red palm oil sauce with West African spices. For dessert, the day’s option was tapioca pudding with a subtle lemongrass broth and your choice of vanilla or chocolate ice cream. The Azi Dessi was a particular standout, and we scrambled to sop up every morsel of the comforting peanut sauce. Each of these dishes was delicious, and we admired the way the chef let all of the individual flavors shine, without being overpowering.
The meal unfolded at a leisurely pace, and the portions sizes were good, but not overwhelming, which really allowed you to sample each course. Perhaps the most important secret ingredient contributing to the Mé Lon Togo experience was the atmosphere. The restaurant’s setting in a historic home only amplified the convivial family atmosphere, supported by friendly servers and staff. Everyone was talking and laughing like old friends, and you can tell that many people dining that night were restaurant regulars. We highly recommend Mé Lon Togo for those looking to sample West African cuisine for the first time, or those tiring a bit of traditional seafood options in New England, they will surely welcome you with open arms!
Eating The World 