Tag Archives: pastry

Indulging in Yemeni Honeycomb Bread: Khaliat Nahal

One of the most exciting recent food developments in the Cleveland area is the plethora of new Yemeni cafes popping up in the city and suburbs. Apparently the growth of Yemeni cafes is a trend throughout the US, and not just in Northeast Ohio. Yemen is considered to be the home of the coffee trade, so it is perhaps unsurprising that the country boasts a vibrant cafe culture, which has also come to the US in recent years. Two new Yemeni cafes in the Cleveland Area include Shibam Coffee (26745 Brookpark Ext, North Olmsted, OH 44070) and Qawah House (25102 Brookpark Rd #146, North Olmsted, OH 44070). Both of these locations appear to be part of mini-chains with locations throughout the US.

Of course, the delicious and strong coffee and tea, elegant surroundings, and late operating hours are the main draws to these Yemeni cafes. However, another major attraction is a new-to-us dessert: “honeycomb” cake/bread, more properly known as Khaliat Nahal / Nahl. Khaliat Nahal (which literally means “bee’s hive/beehive” in Arabic) is a classic Yemeni dessert that seems to be on offer at all of these cafes, often alongside crepes, cookies, or milk cakes (another Middle Eastern specialty based on the Latin American tres leches cake). Khaliat Nahal is a leavened bread with a cream cheese filling, topped with honey and sesame and/or nigella seeds. It is formed from pull-apart pieces of dough shaped in a round honeycomb-like pattern (which reminds us of a more-organized monkey bread). There is something extremely visually-satisfying about this geometric bread, and we like that you can sometimes customize how sweet you want it to by adding your own honey topping. If you are feeling ambitious you can even make your own honeycomb bread at home! Check out these recipes from Strawberry in the Desert and Every Little Crumb. For now, I think we will look forward to getting this sweet bread at our local Yemeni cafes as a special treat.

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Portuguese Pastry Post-Doc: São Marcos

portugalAs the Pastry Post-Doc moves into 2015, I have reached the point where I am encountering more esoteric Portuguese pastries. At a recent visit to Chique de Belem (Rua Da Junqueira 524, 1300-341 Lisboa) – our 2012 winner of best Pastel de Nata – we encountered a rarer variety, the São Marcos. The kind waitress assured us that it was “really, really good!” So we decided to give it a shot. We recalled this pastry appearing in Fabrico Próprio. This rendition of São Marcos had a top and bottom layer of sponge cake, filled with whipped cream and topped with sticky, shiny caramel. One large piece was more than enough for two – typical of Portuguese pastries – it was a total sugar bomb!

SaoMarcos

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Fabrico Próprio, a field guide to the world of Portuguese pastries

FabricoProprio We are back in Portugal for the third time and there are still so many pastries to try! An invaluable resource for my pastry post doc has been the book Fabrico Próprio (which means “made in house,” a label you will see on many bakeries), which I purchased in Lisbon in 2012. The book, by Rita João, Pedro Ferreira and Frederico Duarte presents a social history of semi-industrial baking in Portugal, and also serves as a field guide, identifying 92 emblematic pastries and many iconic cafes through lovely pictures and Portuguese/English bilingual text. The book was clearly a labor of love, and the authors were quite thorough in their documentation of pastelarias throughout Portugal (but especially in Lisbon). We love using this book’s detailed photos and drawings as a guide to the sweet offerings in Lisbon, since the Portuguese pastry experience can sometimes be overwhelming. You can learn more on the book’s comprehensive website. We highly recommend this book! Fabrico Próprio is available on the book’s site for 35 euros – and with free international shipping!

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