Friday Foodie Links: Chicago Restaurant Week
Chicago Restaurant Week is coming the 20-27th. Some Chicago favorites like Cafe Spiaggia, Naha and Frontera Grill are offering $22 3-course lunches and $32 3-course dinners. Menu Pages Chicago and the Time Out Chicago blog break down some best bets. Don’t forget to make reservations!
The Salinas (salt marshes) of Portugal
The New York Times has a fascinating article on how salt is made the traditional way in Portugal. Artisinal salt makers using salt marshes called salinas are reviving centuries-old traditions, as most salt-making goes large-scale and commercial.
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Recipe Friday: Xnipec
M has been on a spicy pepper kick recently, so we decided to find an outlet for the habanero peppers he acquired last week. After some online sleuthing, we found the perfect low-stress recipe: Xnipec (prounced shnee-peck) is a spicy tomato-habanero salsa originating from the Yucatan. Given the mild flavors of most cuisine from the region, one may be surprised at how popular the incredibly spicy habanero pepper is there. But the habanero gives more than just heat – it has a nice citrus, sweet, tropical flavor that goes great with chicken, fish, steak, salsas, or most anything else. This recipe takes the much recommended caution of delicately removing the habanero seed pods and interior white vein to remove most of the heat. For spicier salsa, use greener, less-ripened habaneros. Fully ripened orange ones are fruitier, but more mild. Here’s the recipe, courtesy of the culinary wizardry of Rick Bayless:
Ingredients (Makes 2 cups):
1 small red onion
2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lime juice
10 ounces ripe tomatoes
6 radishes
1/2 whole habanero chile – or more (we used 1 whole)
12 large fresh cilantro sprigs
1/2 teaspoon salt
Chop the onion very finely, using a knife (don’t use a food processor), and scoop it into a strainer; rinse under cold water. Shake as much of the water off as possible, then transfer to a small bowl and stir in the juice. Set aside.
Core the tomatoes, then cut in half crosswise; squeeze out the seeds. Finely dice the tomatoes (about 1/4 inch cubes). Scoop into a bowl.
Slice the radishes 1/16-inch thick, then chop into matchsticks or small dice. Add to the tomatoes.
Punt on a pair of rubber gloves. Carefully cut out and discard the habanero’s seed pod, then mince the flesh into tiny bits and add to the tomatoes.
Bunch up the cilantro sprigs, and, with a very sharp knife, slice them 1/16-inch thick, stems and all, working from the leafy end toward the stems.
Combine radishes, chile, and chopped cilantro with the tomato mixture; stir in the onion and juice mixture. Taste and season with salt.
The Eaters used both red and yellow tomatoes, and bumped up the amount of habanero. Don’t be nervous about doing that – with a discarded seed pod and vein, habaneros have just the right amount of spice to let their tropical flavors shine through. Our main concern with this dish was the amount of onions, but rinsing them under water for a minute or so takes off most of the onion flavor and allows them to absorb the habanero, cilantro, and lime juice. Same with the radishes.
All in all, we thought this was great. It is quick, cheap, easy, comes out very colorful and fresh, and goes great with just about anything. We originally ate it alone as a salsa with some tortillas, and used another batch over grilled chile-rubbed chicken on a bed of rice. Great there too. We will definitely be making more of it.
Filed under Recipes
A Brazilian Corner in Berkeley: Brazil Cafe
Brazil Cafe
1983 Shattuck Ave
Berkeley, CA
I had a lunch break for my conference at UC-Berkeley – what to do? Downtown Berkeley is overrun with Asian fare, southern and eastern, but I was looking for something more esoteric. A quick call back to L at our home base, some internet research, and a leisurely walk later I found myself staring across Shattuck Avenue in Berkeley toward a parking lot wedged inside an office park – a parking lot home to Berkeley’s most colorful eatery, Brazil Cafe. One look at the small, festive stall and I knew this was going to be a good meal, and judging by the selections on the surfboard-menu, my hunch was right.
I walked right up to the counter, and before I even had a chance to order, the unemotional but efficient owner was shoving a toothpick of tri-tip steak toward my face – her speciality. Tri-tip is a special cut of meat, a little more marbled than other steaks and extra juicy, which at Brazil Cafe gets thrown on a sandwich and combined with a rich and flavorful green garlic sauce. “I’ll have that.” Along with a mango smoothie. A combination which, as it turned out, was one of the special student combos – all for $7.95.
I got a number and picked a seat out back, amidst the jamming sounds of contemporary Brazilian samba and photos of American tourists at Ipanema Beach. The wait for the food was short, so I was ready to dive in to my sandwich – and what a sandwich it was. The thin paper sandwich tray was clearly ill-designed to contain the massive tri-tip, a problem which I set out to rectify by scarfing it down. I was pretty hungry. And you have to be to come here, the juicy, lightly marbled meat, thick bread, and rich, flavorful garlic sauce make for a filling, messy, and tasty meal. The sauce makes the sandwich (as many sauces do), and I was frankly surprised by its heaviness and strong garlic flavor (not that anyone is complaining about too much garlic). Good as it was, the mango smoothie really hit the spot by balancing out the sandwich flavors with a nice, sweet, fruity, and really fresh finish to the lunch. All in all, it was one of those meals you could tell was all fresh ingredients used right on the spot, and given Brazil Cafe’s parking lot real estate, that was pretty surprising. So kudos to the owner (a Brazilian native – I could tell by her accent) for giving Berkeley a great, filling, fun lunch spot, particularly one that gets Brazil out of the all-steakhouse-all-the-time reputation it seems to have Stateside.
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FTC: Aero Bars
International candy is so wonderfully random and varied, you can’t help but love it. At the top of my list of fun international candies from my youth has to be Aero, made by Nestle. Aero is a UK creation, and was first made by the Rowntree Mackintosh company in 1935 (Nestle bought Rowntree Mackintosh in 1988). Above all else, Aero is a novelty bar, and not some extraordinarily fine bittersweet chocolate.
The novelty, in this case, is that Aero bars have a bubbly, aerated chocolate filling, which creates a pretty unique texture. Tellingly, the tagline of Aero is “have you felt the bubbles melt?”If you cut the bars open you can really see the bubbly interior – check it out below. Though we searched the web for how the bubbles in Aero form, it seems to be a closely guarded and much-speculated secret. Aero bars also come in dark chocolate and mint varieties – check out the awesome green color below! Aero is available at Cost Plus infrequently, and any respectable British Market. 
Filed under Finer Things Club
Friday Foodie Link: Obama Food-o-Rama
We’re not going to lie – we love Obama food news – so we were overjoyed when we found Obama Foodorama, a site dedicated to everything Obama-foodie related. Being from Chicago, we are doubly excited, since Obama seems to be maintaining his Chicago foodie roots – especially given that he recently brought the chef from Chicago restaurants Avec and Blackbird, Sam Kass, to Washington.
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A Taste of Cuba in the Chicago Loop at Cafecito
Cafecito
26 East Congress Pkwy
Chicago, IL
Upon entering Cafecito we had our first sign that it was a hidden gem – directly ahead of us in line was a pack of Chicago Police officers. If there are 8+ police officers in a place at 5 PM on a Saturday, we figure the food has to at least be decent. Cafecito’s laid-back and colorful ambiance welcomed us in right away, and other than the cops, the place was populated by international teens and 20-somethings checking their e-mail – not surprising since Cafecito is connected to a hostel!
Cafecito focuses on reasonably-priced pressed sandwiches which are akin to paninis. However unlike paninis, Cuban-style sandwiches are pressed on a plancha grill – and have no grill marks. Cafecito’s most famous offering is their Cubano sandwich, recently rated as Time Out as the best in all of Chicago, which is no small feat. So naturally, when first visiting Cafecito, the Cubano was the sandwich of choice for most of our party. The hefty Cubano ($4.99) consists of the classic combination of roast pork, ham, swiss cheese mustard and pickles. The sandwich comes served on a pressed Gonnella roll (a Chicago touch). The flavors all melded together perfectly but the real standout was the juicy and tender roast pork. We can definitely see why this Cubano has won so much acclaim – our party practically inhaled the sandwiches. Though the Cubano appeared to be the most popular option – Cafecito has other sandwiches are worth noting. We can recommend two sandwiches with an excellent house-made Chimmichurri sauce – the chicken breast sandwich ($5.49) and the Choripan ($5.49) with Spanish chorizo.
We finished off the meal with some great, strong Cuban espresso with sugar $1.29 and hot chocolate ($1.99) which was good to take on a cold day to warm up. Cafecito also boasts a dessert counter full of miniature cakes and pasties, however it was pretty much empty buy the time we arrived. We are happy we found Cafecito – it’s a perfect lunch or dinner spot in the south loop – and will be a new go-to whenever we decide to hit the Art Institute. Or we just might make an extra trip or two for the Cubano.
Filed under Reviews
Happy Lunar New Year
January 26th marked the ushering in of the year of the Ox. As with any holiday worth celebrating, there is some awesome food involved in Chinese New Year celebrations. In honor of the new year here are some fun and delicious links.
- The BBC highlights a range of traditional regional Chinese New Years dishes.
- Epicurious takes on a transnational Lunar New Years menu.
- Philly chef Susanna Foo shares a story and some tasty recipes at Global Gourmet.
- And for the cheapskate – how to make some freestyle dumplings for less than 8 bucks.
Finer Things Club: Gjetost Cheese
This Norwegian import, (pronounced “yet-oast”) is hands-down one of the most unusual and distinctive cheeses the eaters have ever sampled. Gjetost is actually known as Brunost (literally ‘brown cheese’) in Norway. If that weren’t confusing enough, Gjetost goes by a variety of names across Scandinavia (Sweden – mesost, and Denmark – myseost). Gjetost is made from goat and cows’ milk and whey, which is boiled to a caramel brown and a soft consistency. Due to this caramelization, the cheese has a sweet, burnt sugar taste. Gjetost is commonly served sliced very thinly on top of fruit or crackers. This unusual cheese is commonly available at Whole Foods and many specialty stores. The most common variety in the US is is Ski Queen, which is found in a distinctive red package, as seen below.
flickr photo from [oknovokght]
Filed under Finer Things Club
Friday Foodie Links: One and Two Food Blogs
We’ve encountered a number of good food blogs recently that have the structure of linking two foods – sometimes expected combos (Chocolate and Vanilla) and sometimes not (Chocolate and Zucchini?). We thought we’d share some of our favorites.
- Vanille & Chocolate – A London-based blog full of delicious recipes and travel stories.
- Cannelle Et Vanille – Blog from a Basque expat, filled with lovely desserts.
- Canela y Comino – Delicious dispatches from M’s favorite culinary country – Peru!
- Chocolate and Zucchini – A rather famous blog detailing culinary adventures in Paris.
- Rice and Noodles – A minimalist blog with gorgeous food photos.
Beard Papa’s Japanese Cream puff empire
Beard Papa’s
2399 Telegraph Avenue (this location closed, various others open throughout the US)
Berkeley, CA
I (M) was in Berkeley for an academic conference, and naturally decided to take advantage of some West Coast eats that we don’t have in the Midwest. One place L and I kept hearing about was Beard Papa’s, a Japanese creampuff outlet with locations all around the Pacific Rim and NYC/New Jersey. With their Berkeley location just opened, I knew I had to stop in for some tasty cream puffs after a long day of lectures.
For starters, the best thing about Beard Papa’s has to be its logo. The white bearded, yellow hatted, pipe-smoking Alaskan fisherman (?) makes little sense as a creampuff symbol, but maybe that’s why he works so well. Whatever the allusion is, it is definitely memorable (maybe his face looks like a creampuff? You be the judge.)
It was late in the day when I made it inside, and was concerned they wouldn’t have what I wanted – and I was right. The ordering process is pretty simple: pick a pastry type (regular, cookie, or eclair) and pick a filling (Belgian chocolate, vanilla, or coffee). The flavors change from week to week – these are the choices this location had on this particular day. Regardless, the cookie crust (my favorite!) was out, so I settled on regular pastry with chocolate insides.
My verdict on the worldwide craze that is Beard Papa’s? Just OK. I cannot say I have much to compare it to in terms of creampuffs, but the pastry tasted, well, like a pretty standard pastry crust with pretty good soft ice cream center. Not that there wasn’t enough – the puff was much larger than I expected (a relative deal for $2.49) and more or less exploded with chocolatey goodness when I bit into it. But I definitely was not blown away by the offerings – maybe it was just the growing pains of a new establishment? I would definitely try one again if the opportunity presented itself, but as of right now, I find it hard to legitimate the worldwide obsession around the puffs.
Filed under Reviews
The 2009 USA Presidential Inaugural Lunch
So we’re watching the inauguration on TV right now – needless to say we’re loving it. So in honor of the inauguration here’s a special inaugural luncheon post. The inaugural luncheon is a White House tradition, dating back to 1897. The theme this year was to have foods inspired by the Lincoln era, presumably chosen because Lincoln is Obama’s political idol. The lunch, catered by Arlington, Virginia’s Design Cuisine, starts with a seafood stew, the main courses are herb roasted pheasant with wild rice stuffing and duck breast with sour cherry chutney. For dessert there is a apple-cinnamon sponge cake. There is even a PDF of all of the recipes at the White House site if you’d want to try them. MSNBC has the recipes in HTML format.
Filed under Note
Mexico: Adobo Grill
Adobo Grill
1610 N. Wells
Chicago, IL
We had an 8 o’clock show at Second City with M and his family, so we needed to find someplace close and crowd-pleasing for dinner. We settled on Adobo Grill, which is conveniently located right next door to the theater on Wells. The restaurant was lively when we arrived, with warm yellow walls and crowds of theatergoers getting a bite to eat of a drink at the bar. Adobo’s menu consists of some upscale takes on traditional Mexican food – tamales, sopes, enchiladas, etc. They are also known for their extensive tequila and drink selection.
M was pleased to see a rather esoteric ingredient on the menu, like huitlacoche, a specific type of corn fungus prized for its taste (sounds gross, but in reality tastes kind of mushroom-y). Intrigued, we ordered a huitlacoche quesadilla appetizer ($8.50). The quesadilla came stuffed with corn, cheese and ancho salsa, along with the huitlacoche. M said the taste of the huitlacoche itself was very mellow, an much milder than the type he remembers having in Mexico City. We also ordered Adobo Grill’s famous guacamole tableside. They even have a little cart set up with the ingredients all ready for the “Guacamole Lady” who expertly prepares the guac to order in molcajetes (sadly, plastic instead of stone) for each table. Despite the inauthentic molcajetes, the guac was good – we ordered two batches – spicy and mild ($7.99)
For entrees, I (L) ordered the chicken enchiladas with mole rojo ($14.99), but I substituted Oaxacan black mole sauce instead. The enchiladas came topped with sour cream, añejo cheese, onions; black beans. However, the mole was the star of the show, with perfect notes of sweet and savory. Unfortunately there was one major problem with the entree- the chicken. Honestly, an enchilada can hide a lot when it comes to the quality of the chicken. It seemed like they just took the whole bird, bones and all, and chopped it up to throw in the tortilla – not acceptable. I spent a lot of time simply picking out bone and cartilage chunks, which for $15, isn’t a welcome task. M fared better with his pollo al tamarindo ($15.99) – a grilled half chicken in tamarind-chipotle glaze. The chicken was tender, and the tamarind sauce was pretty sweet, but offset by the smoky chipotle kick.
To finish we ordered a chocolate flan ($5.99) and churros ($5.99) to share among the table. M and I were reminded again that we are not particularly fans of flan – as it is a bit too gelatinous for us. We know – that’s the appeal of flan – so we assume Adobo Grill’s rendition was perfectly fine. The churros were pretty basic (you cant mess up a churro) – but the chocolate sauce made the dessert and was perfect for dipping. Adobo Grill has to be used to theater patrons on tight schedules, because our meal went like clockwork, with plenty of time to spare before the show. Despite this, we still feel that Adobo Grill is good, not great, especially for the price point. We hear that a popular plan is to just order the guac and some drinks, which may be the route we go in the future.
Filed under Reviews
Friday Foodie Links: Best of 2008
Towards the end of the year, it’s no surprise there are a slew of “best of” lists. So here’s a rundown of some of the best of the “Best Ofs.”
- The Kitchn compiles the Best Food Stories of 2008. How could we forget Cindy McCain’s Recipegate or the Salmonella scare?
- Leite’s Culinaria rounds up the best food books of 2008: including A Day at el Bulli by Ferran Adrià and Eat Me: The Food and Philosophy of Kenny Shopsin by Kenny Shopsin.
- Time Out Chicago has a list of the 100 Best Things they ate in 2008 – and there’s even a PDF Print-Out so you can see how many you ate as well. This gives us some ideas for 2009.
- Food & Wine goes nationwide with their best restaurant dishes of 2008, including entries from Chicago’s own L20 and Takashi.
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Don’t forget to watch Check Please!
(Vintage) Obama will appear tonight at 8PM CST on Check Please!
Filed under Note
A trip to DiBruno Brothers Market in Philadelphia
DiBruno Brothers
930 S. 9th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19145
As you can tell by reading this blog, both L and M are big fans of cheese. When we’re traveling we never miss an opportunity to scout out the local cheese shops. On a recent trip to Philly had the chance to visit one of our favorite cheese shops – DiBruno Brothers. When L used to go to school in Philly, she visited this DiBruno Brothers location at least every couple of weeks (she also turned M into a convert). Though M is not from Philly, he lives in Wisconsin, so needless to say, he takes his cheese very seriously. It’s our cheese-loving opinion that DiBruno Brothers is one of the best cheese stores around. The first thing DiBruno Brothers has going for it is its location smack dab in the middle of Philadelphia’s Italian Market. The Italian enclave in South Philly is big, bustling and vibrant, unlike many others (our trip to the NYC Little Italy was underwhelming and frankly kitschy), and the famous Italian Market is located in the middle of this Little Italy. Philadelphia’s Italian Market, though perhaps less impressive than it was a few decades ago, still provides a wide range of small, authentic, family-run Italian shops that would be right at home on a street in Parma or Naples.
Though the market is full of great specialty food store, DiBruno Brothers has always been out favorite for its great selection and friendly staff. When you enter, the first thing you notice are the huge cheeses hanging from the ceiling, cured Italian meats sitting on sample plates to eat, a huge cheese counter on one side of the narrow store and a wide variety of dry goods on the other. It goes without saying that cheese is the star of the show. From Italian favorites like Parmigiano-Reggiano and Mozzarella di Bufala to Scandinavian and Argentine cheeses, DiBruno brothers has it all. If there is any variety you would like to try, DiBruno Brothers is generous with samples. The staff are all knowledgeable and helpful and have made great suggestions over the years. The selection is wide and varied, though some of the more unique varieties can be a bit pricey. On our last visit, however, M was on a mission for Garrotxa, a Spanish goat milk cheese he fell in love with back in Wisconsin. Since then he had not seen it anywhere, but DiBruno came to the rescue.
Along with a copious variety of cheese from around the world, DiBruno Brothers also boasts a selection of olives, meats and ready made foods. There is enough here to keep you occupied (and fed) for days. The DiBruno empire also stretches into a ready-made food store further up the block in the Italian market, and to a large store and cafe in Rittenhouse Square. However, for us, the DiBruno Brothers cheese store in the Italian market will always be the real deal. This is what heaven looks like!
Filed under Finer Things Club
Friday Foodie Link: Mole Mania
Chicago Life magazine has a nice feature on Mole, and locations around Chicago with their special takes on the iconic sauce. “Mole” simply means “sauce” but is commonly used to describe a particular subset of sauces known as ”mole poblano”, that contain chocolate, dried chili peppers, ground nuts and a myriad of other spices.
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Peru: Rosa De Lima [Closed]
Rosa De Lima [Closed]
2015 N Western Ave
Chicago, IL
The Eaters decided to go global (as we always do) and celebrate a South American New Years ’09. We began the night with a visit to a restaurant so new that the old sign from the previous occupants – Cancun Mariscos – still hangs in front of the building. But don’t be fooled – Rosa de Lima, Bucktown’s newest Peruvian restaurant – is definitely there, and we think it has some of the best Peruvian cuisine we’ve had in Chicago.
Given the great reviews it got on Yelp and the fact it was New Year’s Eve, we were in a bit of a rush to make sure we arrived on time for our 7:30 PM reservations. We were a little surprised to find that, upon arrival, we were the only diners in the entire place. This is usually a bad sign, so we walked in assuming the worst. The decor was nice enough – dark, candle-lit booths and white tables flanked with wall-sized photos of famous sights in Lima make this a good date place, and particularly fun for anyone whose visited Lima and knows the mural locations. Our fears increased, however, when the waitresses muted the Spanish TV station blaring on the restaurant’s far side and instead turned on a steady bad stream of late 1980s / 1990s rock (Blues Traveler?). We still do not understand why so many world eateries play really bad American music, but after all, we’re not there to listen, we’re there to eat.
And eat we did. The evening began as our amiable waitress addressed us in Spanish (good sign on the authenticity index) and immediately brought us a full pitcher of water as well as two small cups chicken and wild rice soup with green beans. The soup was a great, light appetizer for what turned out to be a larger meal than we expected, and the Eaters are always impressed with solid free food before a meal. The water of course is necessary to cool the heat of the aji, a spicy Peruvian dipping sauce made with the pepper of the same name. We got a basket of semisoft and strangely-spiced bread to dip in the aji – it reminded us more of Italian bread than a Peruvian staple, but we let that one slide.
For the appetizer, M ordered one of his favorite dishes from his time in Peru: anticuchos, skewered cuts of goat or cow heart muscle, marinated in vinegar or oil and spices, then grilled. Some Peruvian restaurants in the US cater more to American crowds by substituting other cuts of meat for the heart muscle, but we think the real thing is better. The meat is very lean but not tough, while the marinade adds a nice, subtle kick without being overpowering. M thinks this is a hallmark of good Peruvian food – a good amount of subtle spices and a touch of heat that work well with the texture of the cuisine, without having sauces or marinades overpower the base ingredients. Anticuchos are a great example of this, as was L’s order: 1/2 baked chicken. The 1/2 Roasted Chicken with 2 side orders was a steal at $8. The chicken had a delicious spice rub and the chicken itself was moist and tender. Some of the best roast chicken I have had in a long time. The chicken platter came with a choice of two side orders – L got the Potato purée with milk butter and nut nutmeg and Tostones (fried plantains). The potato puree was like a soupier version of mashed potatoes (potatoes are big in Peru) and the tostones were deliciously crispy.
But if there is any dish where the marinade makes the meal, it is ceviche de pascado. M’s all-time favorite dish is an automatic-order whenever we’re at a Peruvian restaurant, but if there is one complaint, it’s that the order is always too small to be a full meal. That’s probably in the nature of the ingredients: ceviche de pescado is fresh, raw fish marinaded in citrus juice (in Peru, usually lime) and garnished with cilantro, onions, sweet potatoes, and oversized kernels of Peruvian corn (see photo). This ceviche came with a $12.95 price tag, a little less than most other ceviches I’ve seen on Peruvian menus, so I naturally assumed it would be smaller – but was shocked to find it nearly twice average size. It was a struggle to finish the entire plate, sweet potatoes and all, but by no means unpleasant.
To finish off we wanted to order some lucuma ice cream, but they were all out, so we ordered some Alfajores ($2.25 for one). Alfajores are basically two cookie wafers sandwiched with dulce de leche. The Peruvian version is covered in powdered sugar, unlike Argentine varieties, which are covered in chocolate. All in all, we were very impressed with our meal – the service was great, the price was right and the food was excellent. We can definitely say that Rosa de Lima is the best Peruvian food we’ve had in Chicago. We hope they get more crowded than they were on New Years Eve, because Chicago needs this kind of cooking.
Filed under Reviews
Finer Things Club: The Last of the Julmust
Julmust is a Scandinavian soda that is sold only around the holiday time. So – like many other Christmas items, now that the holidays are over – Julmust goes on sale. We visited World Market on New Years Eve, where we found that Guttsta Kalla Julmust was on sale for the bargain-basement price of $0.49! Having never tried Julmust, we decided it was a must-buy. Two of the main ingredients in Julmust are barley and hops, similar to beer. However, Julmust is not fermented, so it is non-alcoholic. Upon tasting, we ascertained that Julmust is pretty much beer with juice. On top of the hoppy flavor, Julmust did have some holiday spiciness, but it was not necessarily our cup of tea. Though we concede that Julmust is a fine holiday tradition, it’s definitely an aquired taste.
Filed under Finer Things Club, Holidays
Eating The World 