Tag Archives: France

The Tarte Tropézienne, Pastry of the Stars

franceA pastry created for Brigitte Bardot – sounds decadent! The duly sumptuous Tarte Tropézienne, from the French riviera town of Saint-Tropez, really does have a glamorous origin story linked with the star. Tarte Tropézienne is a brioche-like cake filled with vanilla pastry cream and topped with pearl/rock sugar. I like the idea of making a Tarte Tropézienne – it is basically a giant brioche roll, sliced open and filled with cream. The confection was developed in Saint-Tropez in the 1950s by a local pastry-maker of Polish origin, Alexandre Micka. When the 1956 film “And God Created Women,” the film with the breakout role that made Brigitte Bardot a star, was being filmed in Saint-Tropez, director Roger Vadim hired Micka as a caterer for the film. The cast and crew, including Brigitte Bardot, fell in love with the cake, and according to myth, it was Bardot suggested the naming the cake for the town. Micka did just that, and the rest is history. The Tarte is still popular all over the French Riviera, evoking movie star glamour of days past.

Brigitte Bardot

…and God Created Tarte Tropézienne

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France: A Tour of Rue Montorgueil-Les Halles

L’Escargot on Rue Montorgueil by straightfromthecask

There is nothing we love more than touring cities in search  of food and food shops, so we were very excited to see David Lebovitz’ description of a tour down Rue Montorgueil-Les Halles in Paris. It seems like an amazing, concentrated taste of the food culture Paris has to offer (not that there is any shortage of that). Food for thought for anyone planning a Paris trip.

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Chocolates + Macarons = Les Macarolats

We spent a wonderful weekend in Paris last December with our friends T & I, where we determined the best macarons in Paris. Though our international paths are nearly missing each other again, we were lucky enough to see them before we left for Portugal. We were so grateful and surprised when they gave us Macarolats from Michel Cluizel as a going-away present, and it was a wonderful reminder of our time in Paris. So you’re probably thinking, “What on earth is a Macrolat?” It is basically a filled chocolate in the shape of the iconic macaron.

The flavors included in our box of 5 Macrolats were: Dark chocolate ganache, Caramel ganache, Coffee ganache, and Crunchy hazelnut praline. All of the flavors were absolutely delicious! Our favorites were the caramel and hazelnut varieties, which were impossibly rich. What’s more, Macrolats are more transportable than the delicate Macarons (they made the journey across the Atlantic unscathed) – practical and delicious!

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Julia Child’s 100th Birthday

Julia Child would have turned 100 today, so it’s the perfect time to reflect on her amazing contribution to the world of gastronomy.  When Julia Child published Mastering the Art of French Cooking in 1961, it completely rekindled American interest in French cuisine. The book has since gone into 18 printings (and is even available as an eBook). Child continued to spread her love for French cooking through a series of successful television shows, beginning with The French Chef, one of the first TV cooking series, and subsequent cookbooks. However, one of her most important contributions is introducing Americans to the fun of cooking, rather than treating cooking as a chore.

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Chickpea flatbread from France: Socca

Socca by Chotda

We searched high and low yesterday for food related to Bastille Day, but the consensus seemed to be that pretty much anything goes. That gives us licence to highlight one of our favorite lesser known French street foods, Socca. Socca, originating in Nice, France is a flatbread made out of chickpeas. Since Nice is so close to the Italian border it is no surprise that there is an Italian version of Socca, called Farinata that is nearly identical. Given the Sicilian proclivity to chickpeas and our love of street food, it is no surprise that we are big fans of Socca. Socca is simply made out of chickpea flour and olive oil, and can be made very thin and crispy, as seen above, or can be much thicker, with toppings like a pizza. However, according to purists, in order to properly make a Socca, you need a special copper pan and a wood-burning oven.  Fortunately The Minimalist assures us that making Socca at home isn’t really too daunting of a task, and the homemade result can be as good as what you find on the streets of Nice. The ingredients really are just that simple, and Lottie and Doff ups the ante a little with the addition of rosemary. As the Kitchn points out, it is also naturally gluten-free!

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The Renaissance of the French Baguette

Image
Image: Afar Magazine

When one thinks of French bread, artistry, tradition and quality probably come to mind. However, we were very surprised to learn that in Post War France, quality bread was hard to come by. Quelle horreur! Afar Magazine has a fascinating article about the fall and rise of bread in France, and how the writer apprentices with one of the current arbiters of the artisanal bread tradition.

In 1987 a cultural critic writing in the French newsmagazine Le Nouvel Observateur proclaimed that the baguette had become “horribly disgusting.” It was “bloated, hollow, dead white,” he said. “Soggy or else stiff. Its crusts come off in sheets like diseased skin.” Renowned French baking professor Raymond Calvel mused that the best baguette might soon be made in Tokyo. What had brought this on? And how was quality bread revived in the 1990s? The answers to these questions lay in Paris, which is what brought me to the door of Boulangerie Arnaud Delmontel at three that morning last February.

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Food Trucks Roll Into Paris

 New York, Or Paris? photo by Stephane

When I learned that Chipotle had arrived in Paris, it seemed that anything was possible in the French capital. Now, food trucks, one of our favorite food delivery methods, are becoming very popular in Paris, something that is surprising Parisians almost as much as Chipotle. The featured food trucks in the article specialize in gourmet tacos and burgers with fresh and well-sourced ingredients. While living in Lisbon some of things we missed most were good Mexican food and burgers, so we would have definitely visited Cantine California or Le Camion qui Fume!

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Macarons for the Diamond Jubilee

This coming weekend marks Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee – 60 years on the throne –  and British companies have been pulling out all all of the stops to put out special editions of clothes, tea and even Heinz baked beans. However, what has most caught our eye are the special Laduree jubilee-edition macarons. The Union Jack themed box of six red and white macarons runs $25 and is available at Laduree NYC, Paris and London locations (and also Harrods in the UK). Apparently this is only the second time that special edition macarons were made – the first being a special nod to Hello Kitty. This year also marks the 150-year anniversary of Laduree, which first opened at 16 Rue Royale in Paris in 1862. We are a little sad that we cannot sample the special edition macarons, since Laduree was voted the winner of our Parisian macaron taste-test, but maybe one of our lovely readers can let us know how they are!

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French Pantone Tarts

It seems that Pantone, the color matching system used to standardize colors across industries and projects, is ubiquitous nowadays. You can even find Pantone mugs, ornaments and makeup. Now, the Pantone mashups have reached food – French blogger Emilie Griotte has created Pantone Tarts! The text is in French, but the pictures are perfectly delightful in any language.

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Paris vs. NYC

Paris vs. NYC

Macarons vs. Cupcakes, Cheese vs. Cheesecake, Patisserie vs. Pastrami. Vahram Muratyan’s Paris vs. NYC blog compares the cuisines, attitudes and styles of each iconic city in colorful graphics. While we were in Paris we saw the book based on the blog for sale, and it is now available stateside! You can buy the book online, along with art prints of the images.

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February 9, 2012 · 12:42 PM

Finer Things Club: Berthillon

Berthillon
31, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île
Paris, 75004

You know ice cream is good if you crave it even in 40 degree, rainy weather (hmmm, just like Chicago right now). Despite the gross grey drizzle we made a pilgrimage to Berthillon on Île Saint-Louis, fine purveyors of delicious house-made ice creams. Along with L’As du Fallafel, Berthillon is another one of our Paris must-dos – beware though – many places on the same road on the Île advertise that they carry Berthilllon ice cream, but only one is the ORIGINAL Berthillon. As a respite from the cold we opted to go into the small but elegant Berthillon tea room to sample some ice cream (in the Summer there is a walkup counter).

The little tea room serves all of Berthillon’s myriad ice cream flavors – which rotate in and out on a daily basis. The flavor selection at Berthillion is massive – and includes all of the classics, like hazelnut or vanilla, as well as particularly fresh and potent fruit sorbets, there are even a few more unusual flavors like Earl Grey Tea, Turron and Ginger (full list of ice creams and sorbets here – both PDFs). We are partial to the chocolate ice cream and raspberry sorbet flavors, however you can’t go too wrong. Also – as a bonus – they serve Mariage Frères tea – another one of our all-time favorites! While the Eaters opted for a decadent dish of chocolate ice cream covered in chantilly and chocolate sauce along with an almond tuile, our friends went for the salted caramel ice cream. For an accompaniment we got a small pot of Thé à l’Opéra, one of our favorite Mariage Frères varieties, a green tea and red berry blend. For the more adventurous there are also more elaborate sundaes (but those will cost you a lot more). It doesn’t matter the weather – you know you want ice cream!

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Côte d’Ivoire and Senegal: Maïmouna et Mandela

Maïmouna et Mandela
48 rue Clignancourt
75018 Paris

The bright orange sign on this small take-away restaurant makes itself known for blocks. And again, at nearly all hours, it is full of hungry patrons, with Senegalese guitar music blaring through the restaurant (Youssou N’Dour, we think). We were excited to try it for its stellar reviews, but even moreso when we discovered that take-out entrees were only 5E. We both tried the chicken yassa (Yassa Poulet), a traditional west African dish with a mustard and onion sauce. When we arrived right after they opened at 12:30 they were already doing a brisk business (both carry-out and dine-in) though we had to wait about 30 minutes, a tiny amount when compared to the previous night’s adventures at G.J. Restaurant. For 5 euros the yassa chicken is an amazing steal – the portions were ample and the sauce was delicious. As far as it goes, we actually probably prefer the yassa chicken at Yassa in Chicago, but for some cheap and (relatively speedy) Senegalese food in Paris this will fit the bill just fine.

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Christmas in Paris: Bûche de Noël

Buche de Noel Paris

A Bûche de Noël in Paris

In our continuing coverage of holiday-related cakes and desserts (yum!) we move on to France. As much of a fixture as holiday lights and trees, the arrival of the Bûche de Noël cake in pastry shop windows signals Christmas. Known in the US as a Yule Log, the Bûche de Noël consists of rolled sponge cake, typically with chocolate frosting, that resembles a log (even topped with meringue mushrooms). However, the modern varieties available are almost limitless, including this bitter orange-flower flavored Bûche we saw in a shop window.

As for history, The earliest known recipe of the cake is from 1898, though the tradition of the cake is much older than that. The origins of the Bûche de Noël are with the Yule log traditionally burned by the Celts and other cultures around the Winter Solstice. The form of the Bûche de Noël is then based off of those logs. But when did the cake itself originate? The blog Why’d you Eat That has a pretty awesome explanation – and it includes Napoleon (go figure):

During his reign as Supreme Ruler of the Universe, Napoleon realized there was a lot of disease in Paris. His solution was to mandate that all chimneys must remain closed during the winter months because the cold, drafty air was causing all this inconvenient illness. With chimneys closed, there was no way for the air to get in. Now people were in a pickle. They had no way to burn their traditional Bûche de Noël. So a Parisian baker got creative and invented the cake as a symbolic alternative of the actual piece of wood.

For those intrepid bakers, Saveur has a traditional recipe and Canelle et Vanille has an amazing looking version with lemon creme brulee filling and dark chocolate glaze. According to Serious Eats, Floriole in Chicago has a pretty awesome Bûche de Noël.

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Israeli Falafel in Paris: L’As Du Fallafel

L’As du Fallafel
34 Rue des Rosiers
75004 Paris

One of the few repeat destinations we visited on this small trip to Paris was L’As du Fallafel. We remember being impressed with the falafel four years ago, so we were excited when our friends that lived in Paris suggested we visit there again. As you might guess, the specialties at L’As du Fallafel are falafel, shewarma and the like. Approaching the restaurant you know it must be good, because even at an odd time like 3 PM – it was completely full, with a line for both take-out and restaurant service. One famous celebrity fan is Lenny Kravitz – a fact of which the owners are very proud – and there are photos and quotes of Lenny Kravitz plastered over nearly every wall and also on the outside of the restaurant. You can see evidence of the popularity below, a huge line to get in, even at 3PM (note also the Wikipedia article).

However, the line is not for nothing, L’As really delivers. The specific type of falafel at L’As is Israeli, which happens to be one of our favorite types, and one we have tried extensively on all of our travels and back in Chicago. Each falafel sandwich (€7.50) came with grilled eggplant (delicious), cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, and was doused in tahini sauce. As you can see below – this was no paltry sandwich. Though we had to wait for over ½ hour to simply sit in the restaurant – our food came out lightening-quick. The falafel were fresh and perfectly spiced, and arrived piping hot. We can’t imagine how many falafel they turn out in a week – at least several thousand, we’d bet. The crispy fries were nothing to scoff at either and the chicken shewarma (€9.50) was freshly carved off of the spit. We think perhaps that L’As du Falafel has grown in popularity since we were there last- we do not remember nearly as big of a crowd – maybe it is all of the Lenny Kravitz fans swamping the place? If you are craving some good, relatively cheap falafel in Paris, this place is certainly your best bet.

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The Best Macarons in Paris

One of our main goals while visiting Paris was to sample the macarons. L and M are huge fans of macarons, and even had them as our wedding favors (chocolate, blueberry and chai). However, we will freely admit that none of the macarons in Chicago (even the most expensive) can rival those in Paris. Prior to our trip, we did some research to narrow down the overwhelming choices for some possible top contenders. After reading many ‘best of ‘ lists we arrived at two top contenders – Ladurée and Pierre Hermé. With this shortlist in mind, we set out to conduct a scientific study of what would be the top macaron in Paris, along with our good friends and gracious Paris hosts, T & I. Below, we compare the two shops on various parameters, and discuss our final decision. And no, we did not get IRB approval for this study (Social Science joke!)

Basic Facts

Ladurée
Location in Paris we visited: 21 Rue Bonaparte, Saint Germain des Prés, Paris
Flavors Sampled: Salted Caramel, Colombian Chocolate, Pistachio

Pierre Hermé
Location in Paris we visited: 72 Rue Bonaparte, Saint Germain des Prés, Paris
Flavors Sampled: Creme Brulée, Venezuelan Chocolate, Salted Caramel

Breakdown:

The line outside Ladurée

Price and Line:
Both stores had lines out the door (and were located mere blocks from eachother in the Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood).  However, Ladurée gets the hat-tip for having lower prices for roughly the same sized macarons. At Pierre Hermé eight macarons were €15.70, Ladurée came in at €12.10.
Verdict: Ladurée – we are poor grad students, what do you expect?

Strictness:
We got yelled at in each store for taking pictures – but only after about 20 photos. Oops…?
Verdict: Tie

Minimalist display at Pierre Hermé

Decor:
In terms of decor, the two shops could not be more different. Ladurée is a pastel-colored confection, full of filigree and antique fixtures. Pierre Hermé, on the other hand, is extremely stark and sleek, and really goes for the minimalist look. This style was also reflected in each store’s Christmas window decorations, as seen below.
Verdict: We slightly preferred Ladurée, for its old-world charm.

Miscellany:
Pierre Hermé provided little menus with all of the macaron flavors so you could decide while waiting in line. However, Pierre Hermé was also out of a flavor – one that might have been our favorite flavor! Overall, Pierre Hermé was more inventive, and had flavors like Olive Oil/Citrus and Chocolate/Foie Gras, whereas Ladurée only had more classic flavors.
Verdict: Neutral.

In terms of flavors, it was decided that at both locations, the salted caramel and chocolate were the best, so we will discuss those below.

Chocolates:
Both of the restaurants featured a single-original dark chocolate South American macaron, with chocolate cookies and dark chocolate mousse filling, dusted with cocoa powder.
Verdict: Split Decision – One of our testers preferred the Pierre Hermé, and two preferred Ladurée.

Salted Caramel:
Salted caramel is such a delicious and unexpected flavor – and is one that lends itself very well to macarons! All 4 testers ranked salted caramel as the top flavor at both stores. While each was delicious. the key difference was between the fillings – Ladurée had a filling of actual milk caramel, while Pierre Hermé was filled with a salted caramel-flavored buttercream.
Verdict:
 Ladurée – the actual caramel made all of the difference.

RESULTS:
You can’t really go wrong with either choice. But we do have a winner. Overall, considering price, decor and overall taste, Ladurée was the champion. We can’t wait to go back!

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Le weekend à Paris

Tagines in Paris

Tagines in Paris - by Sirexcat

Heading to Paris for a long weekend – excited for the macarons, tagines, cheese, falafel and Christmas market delicacies! This is our first time in Paris since 2007 – which is where we got the inspiration to start Eating the World at a Senegalese restaurant. We are staying with good friends in the 18th Arrondissement, which is a mecca for African food, so we are especially excited to try out some new dishes and hit some new countries (Like Tunisia, Benin and Togo). One weekend does not seem like nearly enough time, but we are so excited and grateful to get back to where it all began!

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Breton Crepes in San Francisco: Ti Couz

Ti Couz
3108 16th St
San Francisco, CA 94103

Of all of the places to get a crepe – the Mission District of San Francisco is probably not the first place that comes to mind. But truth be told we were not really feeling a burrito – so crepes it was. We arrived at Ti Couz just as the rain was about to fall, and were instantly welcomed in by its warm, cozy wooden interior and candlelight.

We have to say, Ti Couz is proud of its Breton heritage! The signs are in Breton, and there are pictures of old Breton ladies in their signature white starched hats (coiffes) everywhere. The menu at Ti Couz is primarily crepes – especially the heartier buckwheat crepes from Brittany. We each, naturally, got crepes – one mushroom with chipotle crème fraiche ($6.25), and the other with cheese ($4.5).

The crepe itself was notable for being a thicker, square buckwheat crepe, native to the region. These aren’t any flimsy paper-thin crepes. Once our orders were taken, we sat back as our crepes were prepared right out front, and arrived at our table, piping-hot in no time flat. The mushroom crepe was delicious and light, while the cheese crepe oozed a blend of mozzarella and gruyere. For those so inclined there is also an ample list of sweet crepes. For an after-meal treat Breton hard cider “cidre” is also sold by the bowl “bol” or pitcher “pichet.” Ti Couz is an eclectic gem in the Mission, perfect for a relaxing lunch when you don’t feel like wolfing down a burrito.

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France: Macaron Smackdown

Macarons, with their near-infinite variety of colors and flavors, are the most Parisian of desserts. The Kitchn does a pastry tour of Paris and determines that the winner of the best Macaron title is….

Flickr Credit: Yuichi.sakuraba’s macarons from Pierre Hermé, Tokyo.

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The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine

The London Review of Books has a great review of a new book, Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine by Michael Steinberger about the role of French Cuisine in tastemaking over time. The book argues that in the past few decades French cuisine has lost its grip on the culinary imagination – but why? Simply put – failure to innovate. While France does its version of haute cuisine well, it does not do innovation as well as the US or Spain (among other locations). This, coupled with changing attitudes about food both inside and outside of France were the death-knell to France’s hold on world cuisine. I’d definitely be interested in this read.

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Delicious French Crêperie in Madison: Bradbury’s

Bradbury’s
127 North Hamilton Street
Madison, WI

Madison has an impressive number of homegrown coffee shops, though it definitely had less of a “crepe” presence. However, now both aspects of the Mad-town dining scene get a boost with Bradbury’s which specializes in both. Bradbury’s is primarily a breakfast and lunch space, located right off of the square. It is a cozy space (on the smallish side), swimming in windows and packed with tiny tables. The menu is written on the walls above the windows on one side of the cafe and consists of mostly coffee drinks a some sweet and savory crepe selections.

M, a particular oddity for grad students, doesn’t like coffee, so he enjoyed a generous bowl of hot chocolate. L got her caffeine fix through a macchiato. Also on the menus are more “advanced” coffee options like the Japanese Siphon coffee, which seemed to come with a neat cadre of serving implements. No seriously, it looks like a chemistry set of a mad scientist.

For our breakfast proper, we indulged in 2 chocolaty crepes (could it really be anything else?) L opted for the almond and nutella crepe ($4.5), which also came with bananas, but she opted for the non-fruit route, while M went for the dark chocolate and marmalade crepe ($5.5). After sampling each, L prefered the classic hazelnut/chocolate nutella crepe, while M, the chocolate purist, thought his crepe had a richer taste. For both crepes, the pancake itself was perfectly uniform and thin, something crepe carts often get wrong.

Bradbury’s a great place for a crepe and some coffee, and were were definitely tantalized by the range of savory options, like the spinach potato and cheddar ($6.5) or the chorizo and chevre ($7.5). We think a lunch may be in our future.

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