The 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia start February 6th, which means even more inspiration for exploring international cuisines. The setting in Sochi, a resort town on the Black Sea, also provides a great springboard for learning more about Russian cuisine. Sochi, in particular, is known for its idiosyncratic cuisine that is a result of the cultural interchange along trade routes. The Russia and India report has a list of unique Sochi-specific dishes to try.
Filed under World Eats
La Fournette
1547 N. Wells
Chicago, IL
It is particularly appropriate that I am writing this review of a little French bakery while listening to Julia Child’s “My Life in Paris” (so she’s not a pastry chef, but still…) We happened upon La Fournette after a trip to the Chicago History Museum, and we were pleased by the quaint ambiance and the large variety of baked goods. We were a little taken aback that we were greeted with a chipper “Bonjour” upon entering, but in the best possible way.
La Fournette seating space
The bakery itself is long and narrow, with wooden tables at one end, and a very long glass counter at the other (you can even do a tour on Google Maps). “Fournette” means little oven, so it is no surprise that the specialty of the house is the delicious bread. We sampled some of the house specialty bread, a dense sourdough called “Miche La Fournette” ($6.95 for a 2 lb loaf). There was a large selection of attractive carb-y delights piled on the baking racks. The Provençal Olive Fougasse bread ($5.75) looked particularly appealing, and who could go wrong with a classic baguette. The chef is from the German-influenced French region of Alsace, so that unique culinary heritage is also present in the bakery – they even have Bretzels ($2.15)!
The Pastry Case at La Fournette
Of course we also made a beeline for the sweets. There was a pretty decent selection of macarons ($1.80), from which we ordered a chocolate and passion fruit/mango. The chocolate was a little flat but the fruit macaron was light and delicious. We were a little disappointed to find the financiers and madeleines pre-wrapped, but we were reassured that everything is made in-house. For something more substantial, there are a rotating selection of soup and sweet or savory crepes. M selected a bacon lentil soup, which was very warming (and very bacon-y). There is also a small drink menu from which we ordered some chocolate chaud, or hot chocolate. It was not too sweet (which we like) and perfect for the freezing weather. Perhaps a cafe au lait some other morning?
Galette des Rois – “King Cake”
One of the key features of the cafe that we enjoyed is that you will find people actually talking to each other, not just working on laptops, as you see in most other cafes. We highly enjoyed our relaxing afternoon snack and the convivial atmosphere, and we hope to get there earlier another morning so we can sample the croissants and brioche that had long sold out by the time we arrived. Moreover, we are looking forward to visiting the outdoor cafe portion in more friendly weather.
We were in Miami for a friend’s wedding and we had a fabulous time taking in the local cuisine. One thing L especially loved was the coffee culture in Miami, where delicious espresso was found on every corner. Our Miami-native friend Fredo assured us that Miami’s coffee culture was the greatest in the US, so we were pretty excited to get drinking. Fredo was definitely right, people in Miami are truly passionate about coffee, and we got a ton of suggestions for where to get the best coffee from our Miami-local friends. However, no matter where you go, there are a few major types of Cuban coffee that you will commonly find offered:
Cortadito at Panther Coffee in the Wynwood Art District
Cafecito / Cafe Cubano – very similar to the Brazilian cafezinho, a strong shot of espresso, with a healthy amount of sugar. The drink is not sweetened after, but rather the sugar is added during the brewing process. This drink is ubiquitous, and will run you less than a dollar. We warn, though, you’d better like your coffee strong.
Cortadito – My favorite, a cafecito with some milk added. This drink is often offered to “beginners” who may think a Cafecito is too strong, but I like it anyway!
Cafe con Leche – Typically for breakfast, a shot of Cafecito with a generous amount of steamed milk
Colada – A quadruple shot of espresso with four (usually Styrofoam) shot glasses. Under no circumstances are you supposed to drink all four shots alone, but rather you are supposed to share with friends. Usually this ends up being a pretty good deal.
Another unique aspect of coffee culture in Miami is the fact that coffee counters abound, and are still the most popular way to enjoy a cup. This reminded us of Brazil, where people would enjoy their cafezinhos standing up at small counters. While you can get your cafe to go, many places also have small areas to sit down. You can find Cuban coffee all over Miami, but many of the most famous places are in Little Havana all along Calle Ocho.
Interior of Versailles, at the western end of Little Havana / Calle Ocho
Versailles (3555 SW 8th St.) is one of the more famous Cuban restaurants in Miami, and a solid bet for both Cuban food and coffee. There is a full restaurant, which is a favorite among visitors and locals alike (we were actually there about 1 hour before Beyoncé and Jay Z), but there is also a smaller cafe with a coffee counter attached. Along with coffee, you can also get a wide variety of tarts and pastels and while away the time. We enjoyed a Guava pastry and an apple and citrus Torta de Santiago. The coffee and pastries together reminded us a little of our favorite pastelaria in Lisbon, also called Versailles, though the Miami setting was not as opulent. Another good choice in the area is El Pub, with a more minimalist counter (1548 SW 8th St.).
Cortadito, a Pastel de Guayaba, and a Torta de Santiago at Versailles
Offering a more modern take on the cafecito is Panther Coffee (2390 NW 2nd Ave.). Panther is reminiscent of a NYC or Chicago coffee shop, with a wide menu of small-batch coffee varieties, and even a menu of alcoholic drinks. Located in the artsy Wynwood district, Panther draws a young crowd that looks like they would be more at home in Wicker Park. Even if you are hipster-averse, the coffee is great.
Panther Coffee in Wynwood
This list only is the tip of the iceberg, and you can find Cafe Cubano on every corner of Miami. We are excited to try out more spots when we return there in February. In the meantime, maybe we should pick up some Bustelo Coffee at the supermarket.
Filed under World Eats
I recently learned about the Nordic Food Lab, and I have never heard of anything like it before! The mission of the Nordic Food Lab is as follows:
Nordic Food Lab is a self-governing organization run on a not-for-profit basis. Established in 2008, we work to investigate the idea of deliciousness and its interconnected systems. We explore the raw materials of our region, the flavours that say something about us and imbue the foods we eat with a connection to this place and this time.
The Nordic Food Lab via Facebook
The lab is the brainchild of René Redzepi, the owner and founder of Noma, considered one of the best restaurants in the world. It is not a lab in the strict sense of the word, but rather a place to experiment with the latest intersections of taste, chemistry, flavor and even the idea of dining itself. Chefs, scientists and anthropologists alike all collaborate on lab projects. It also appears to be right on the water, which really appeals to us!
Waxing Plums at the Nordic Food Lab
Filed under World Eats
Papa Llega y Pon
2928 NW 17th Avenue
Miami, FL 33125
Well, we finally managed to make it home from our whirlwind culinary tour of Miami (thanks to the Polar Vortex for the delays)! In the coming days we’ll have reviews of eats around Little Havana / Calle Ocho, Miami’s amazing coffee culture, and why South Beach scares us. But today, we head straight for the reason M loves Miami so much: pan con lechón, a classic cuban pork sandwich. Lechón is a Spanish term for roasted suckling pig (BBQ lovers: note that lechón is NOT smoked, so do not expect a pulled pork sandwich). In Cuba, and especially among Cuban expats in Miami, pan con lechón (literally bread with roasted pig) is a classic lunch. We asked around, and there was near-universal agreement as to where to go to find the best of the best: Papa Llega y Pon, in Miami’s Allapattah neighborhood.
It seems by now that we have an affinity for places serving lechón by someone named Papa. At Papa Llega y Pon, pan con lechón is the specialty of the house and a simple affair. Papa Llega y Pon seems to take pride in being nondescript. There is no sign either on the street or at the restaurant, so it is easy to miss if you do not know what you are looking for. Even so, the small parking lot, we were told, is almost impossible to get in and out of on weekdays around lunchtime. We played it safe and went at late afternoon on a Saturday, when it was nearly empty. Walking up the counter, you are greeted by women brandishing meat cleavers, ready to take your order. You have few options: you can order a pan con bistec (beef sandwich) or pan con lechón. While there are rumors of people ordering the former, the sign on the building’s north side is there to remind you of what you should be asking for:
When ordering, you are given a choice of sizes for your sandwich (we opted for medium, $6 each) as well as toppings. We went all out and chose both possible toppings, cebolla y picante (onions and hot sauce).
At Papa Llega y Pon, the pork is lightly but effectively seasoned, the hot sauce adds a tinge of spice (barely discernible to M), and the onions blend in with the rest of the pork, adding a little extra texture and variety to the flavors. Adding more texture is the obligatory chicharrón (fried pork rinds) mixed in with the pork meat. You can order yours without chicharrón, but you’ll get some strange looks from your servers. Overall, this is simple comfort food, so those expecting bold flavors or exquisite preparation will be disappointed. This is well-made, well-seasoned, and classically prepared food for those who have come to expect the best of the same. It definitely satisfied our lechón cravings, and there is no wonder it is so popular in Miami.
Filed under Reviews
Hot sauce addicts, never fear, Huy Fong Sriracha sauce will start shipping to stores again in late January. The Sirachapocalypse will soon be over.
Filed under Reviews
The more things change, the more they stay the same. Take for example, Michelangelo’s handwritten 16th-Century grocery list. The list includes staples like fish and bread, and even comes with illustrations. So, ok maybe that is a bit different since the person buying groceries for Michelangelo was likely illiterate.
Filed under Links
We’re taking a weekend trip to Miami for a friend’s wedding. So we’re not going to go the obvious route by posting the Will Smith music video for “Miami” here, but we are soliciting your opinions and recommendations for food in Miami. If you are an avid reader of this blog, you know that we are looking for cheap, international food! We are going for a wedding, and we will have about 1.5 days for munching. What do you recommend?
Miami Food Trucks by Miamism
Happy New Year! Hope everyone is having a fun/relaxing/festive/delicious start to 2014!
In honor of the new year, please enjoy – Let it Dough – a holiday story told in picture by the New York Times’ Christoph Niemann.
Filed under Design and Photography
A recent episode of one of our favorite podcasts, Afropop worldwide, talked about Mirembe Kawomera, a coffee collective in Uganda dedicated to interfaith communication and reconciliation between local Muslims, Christians and Jews. Mirembe Kawomera, which means, “Delicious Peace” in the Luganda language, was founded in 2003 by local coffee farmer JJ Keki. In addition to the coffee co-op, those involved in the collective have also recorded an album, “Delicious Peace: Coffee, Music & Interfaith Harmony in Uganda,” which was featured on Afropop and in the Smithsonian Folkways video above. You can buy the Mirembe Kawomera coffee online from Thanksgiving Coffee company.
Filed under Coffee, World Eats
Everybody watch out, because we are about to hit a shortage of the famous Huy Fong Sriracha Thai/Vietnamese hot sauce – THE SRIRACHAPOCALYPSE! Due to legal entanglements in the Huy Fong factory in Irwindale, California, bottles are now being held 30 days before shipping, causing a major delay in restocking Sriracha on the shelves. Since the stoppage hit in mid-December, customers may really start to feel the effects of the ban soon. Serious Eats conducts a taste test of other sriracha brands so you can get your hot sauce fix in a pinch.
Sriracha in Memphis by Memphis CVB
Filed under Links
Boxing Day is one of those holidays that we always remember every year, but we are never quite sure what to do or make in honor of a day which was historically for giving gifts to servants (perhaps some Downton Abbey themed recipes would be appropriate?). There really is nothing to do in the US to celebrate Boxing Day except perhaps to enjoy an extra day off from work, do some shopping, or continue your holiday binge. However, in Singapore and Malaysia, there is a special dish to mark Boxing Day – Curry Debal – also known as “Curry Devil” or “Devil’s Curry.” Devil’s Curry varies household to household, but is basically a strong, spicy, ginger and chili curry made from whatever leftovers (usually meat) that you have around the house from Christmas celebration feasts.
The dish descended from Eurasian communities in Southeast Asia, and perhaps even has a historic Portuguese influence, when Portuguese traders coming from Goa arrived in what was then known as Malacca. The dish remains extremely popular in Malaysia and Singapore today, and it seems pretty easy to make. The previous links will provide you a great basis for Curry Debal – but don’t be afraid to experiment with your own leftovers!
Devil Curry in Malaysia by CloudyWind
Filed under Holidays, World Eats
Happy winter wishes from the miniature snow-covered Sphinx in Tobu World Square Theme Park in Japan.
Filed under Holidays
It’s Christmas Eve, and most people have their menus well-planned. But if you need some last minute inspiration, look no further than the typical Puerto Rican Christmas feast. Our favorite part? Lechon asado as the main centerpiece: a whole roast pig, which we try to get as often as we can! Other typical Christmas Eve or nochebuena dishes are pasteles (filled masa steamed in banana leaves), arroz con gandules (rice and pigeon peas) and coquito (coconut egg nog). Though Italian food is near and dear to our heart, this kind of feast is a definitely a close second!
Christmas in Viejo San Juan by Gaby Maldonado
Filed under Holidays
Christmas food is all about comfort, and nothing is more comforting than tamales! Venezuela has their own special Christmas dish that is a close cousin of the Mexican tamal, the hallaca. A mix of European, African and Indigenous foodways, hallacas consist of masa steamed in a plantain leaf, filled with a mixture of beef, pork, chicken and olives. If you are really planning to have a big nochebuena dinner, here is a recipe to make 50 hallacas, or a slightly more modest 25. The tradition of making hallacas at Christmastime has also spread to Trinidad and Aruba, both of which are very close to the Venezuelan coast.
Venezuelan Hallacas by Alejandro Angel
We’ve never thought of potatoes as a sweet dish, but Kalle Bergman’s post about Brunede Kartofler (Danish Caramelized Potatoes) on Honest Cooking definitely intrigued us. As opposed to the salty mashed potatoes we enjoy in the US, the Danish go the sweet route with this traditional Christmas side, which is an excellent match with heavier meat dishes. Brunede Kartofler are deceptively simple, and consist of peeled new potatoes, pan-fried in butter and sugar. In order to cut through the heavier dishes, you will often see the meat and potatoes cut with the tangy cabbage slaw, Rødkål.
Danish Caramelized Potatoes by Jens Rost
Arya Bhavan
2508 W Devon Ave.
Chicago, IL 60659
Indian food is certainly vegetarian, but things like ghee and paneer make it less friendly for vegans. However, Arya Bhavan is a perfect go-to restaurants for those who are vegan and want to indulge in some Indian food. We went with our cousin, a vegan as well as a big Indian food fan. The menu was quite extensive, and featured both North and South Indian favorites including a wide selection of naans, dosas, dals and paneers as well as some non-traditional salads. The menu could possibly be overwhelming, but the waitress/owner Kirti was more than happy to give recommendations. For those who really can’t decide, there is a vegan buffet on Friday nights, and throughout the weekend. Our vegan dining companion was especially excited about the vegan mango lassi, which was declared delicious.
We ordered three dishes and shared among ourselves. Of course, we also selected a garlic naan, which was quite tasty. For our first dish we tried something new, Northern Indian dumplings, Malai Kofta ($12) served with a cashew gravy, which had a nice kick to it. The second dish, Dal Bunzara ($12) was composed of sauteed lentils in a cumin, green tomato and onion sauce. We also tried one of our staples, Palak Paneer ($12) with vegan cheese and spinach. Our favorite dish was actually the one most unusual to us, the Malai Kofta dumplings, which had a great texture, and we sopped up the last of the sauce with our naan. The vegan paneer was a pretty good rendition, though we’d probably stick to the dairy version elsewhere.
Overall, the service was a little haphazard (ironically, they were in the process of hiring a new waitress while we were eating). However, we did not feel ignored. The waitress/owner/chef/jack-of-all-trades Chef Kirti, who waited on us was one of the most passionate owners we have ever come across, and she was fully committed to providing healthy, tasty foods for those with all sorts of dietary needs (perhaps a little too healthy…. since she warned us the barfi dessert was too fattening). It was refreshing to see someone so dedicated to her food mission!
For those with even more exacting food needs there is even a raw food buffet on Monday nights, and most dishes can also be made gluten-free. There is something for everyone at Arya Bhavan, from traditional dishes to regional specialties, from dishes that are naturally veggie-only to ones that have been created specifically for vegan palates. We were happy to find a place the pleases vegans and omnivores alike!
Filed under Reviews
We were at Chicago’s venerable Christkindlmarket today, perusing the holiday ornaments while enjoying bretzels and roasted cashews, when we noticed a huge basket of glass ornaments shaped like pickles. “Odd,” we both said. But then we saw them at another booth, and again at another. What gives? We were intrigued. Finally, in one of the ornament shops, in the midst of yet-again vocalizing how confused we were by the pickle ornaments, a woman behind us jumped in: in her family, one person puts/hides the pickle ornament in the tree, and the person who finds the pickle ornament gets to open presents first, or gets an extra gift. And it was not just her family: apparently the Christmas pickle is a huge tradition! Though some people claim the pickle has German origins, it is probably actually an American or German-American tradition that took root in the late 19th century, just as glass ornaments were being popularized. Even though its origins are shrouded in mystery we like the idea that it is supposed to bring good luck!
Christmas Pickle Ornament (and Danbo friend) by Meagan
Filed under Holidays
Our much-anticipated and extensive review of Eataly is forthcoming (we’ll do it after we get at least two visits under our belts). But with Eataly and its associated madness and euphoria now in Chicago, it may be time to remind everyone that our fair city (and the surrounding region) has many, many other places to stock up on domestic and imported Italian cheeses, meats, and other products. But along with them, these stores are local, family-owned, and well-established in the area: aspects that should be appealing to those who object to Eataly on mass-consumerist and New York-transplant grounds.
The west loop, especially west of the Kennedy, is home to some of the city’s oldest Italian groceries. J.P. Graziano Grocery & Company (901 W Randolph), founded in 1937, is a staple grocery in the area, as well as a purveyor of spot-on Italian sandwiches that Yelpers rave about. One of our favorite Chicago food podcasts, Sky Full of Bacon, paid a visit to J.P. Graziano and its fourth-generation owner, Jim Graziano, as he talked about the store, its history, and of course cheese as he lovingly sliced into an unopened wheel of parmigiano-reggiano. Check out their film on vimeo about the experience.
Cheeses, meats, and condiments stacked sky-high at Piatto Pronto.
On the north side, we recently discovered Piatto Pronto (5624 N Clark), a full service Italian deli and food purveyor whose wide assortment of Italian products is jam-packed into their small storefront. Close to our home base, we were thrilled to find high-quality prosciutto di parma, mozzarella di bufala, and a wide selection of panettone just in time for the holidays. It’s now become our go-to prosciutto and cheese shop in the city, both for its location and the high quality of its offerings.
Finally, we are going to recommend all Chicagoans who will spend the time to go downtown to Eataly and wait in line to spend the same amount of time, or even less, to head up I-94 over the Wisconsin border to Tenuta’s Italian Grocery and Delicatessen (3203 52nd Street, Kenosha, WI). Founded in 1950, Tenuta’s easily outshines the offering and variety of any other Italian store in Chicago. We regularly make trips to Kenosha to stock up – seemingly endless aisles of domestic and imported cheeses, meats, pastas, olive oils, spirits, and other goodies leave Tenuta’s unparalleled, and make it easily worth the trip. Our standard purchase includes spicy prosciutto di parma, some samples from their Italian olive selection, parmesan and mozarella cheeses, our favorite Sicilian olive oil, and interesting pasta varieties you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. To top it all off, have a house-made panini while you wait.
Paul Ryan and ETW agree: Tenuta’s is amazing. (Photo: AP / Mary Altaffer).
Filed under Reviews
Eating The World 