The Unique Foods of Rhode Island

We are now in Providence, Rhode Island. There seem to be a ton of Rhode Island foods that have somehow not made it past the state’s borders and we are excited to try them, especially the coffee milk (milk with special coffee syrup – see below). There are also some Rhode Island linguistic difference that have perplexed us – including calling a milkshake a “Cabinet.” People from Rhode Island are proud of their culinary heritage, and The New York Times has a piece about the big flavors of this little state.

Coffee Syrup - a key component of a Rhode Island Coffee Milk

Coffee Syrup – a key component of a Rhode Island Coffee Milk by spablab

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ETW is in Providence and DC

We are out and about in Chicago, Providence, Rhode Island and Washington D.C., and will be posting only a limited amount while we are away for the next 2 weeks. We will be updating our Twitter feed, so keep an eye out. If you have a suggestion for Providence or DC, let us know! We are particularly excited about sampling Lobster Rolls in Providence and Ethiopian Food in DC. Expect to hear about our food travel adventures here soon.

Diner sign at Johnson and Wales Culinary Museum in Providence

Diner at Johnson and Wales Culinary Arts Museum in Providence by Joey Orso

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The weirdest fruit tree in Brazil: Jaboticaba

brazilTrying to describe a Jaboticaba/Jabuticaba tree to someone who has never seen one is a particularly humorous and futile task. While the fruit of the Jaboticaba itself is not that visually unusual, resembling and tasting like a large black grape or a small plum – the fashion in which it grows is quite unusual – with the fruit attaching directly to the trunk and the branches of the tree. Jaboticaba is very popular in Brazil, and you will often see it as a flavoring for sweets or as a jam. We first saw a Jaboticaba tree in the courtyard of the restaurant Paraíso Tropical, in Salvador, Brazil where it was practically dropping fruit onto our table. “It looks diseased” was the succinct response of one of our American friends after we showed them a picture of a Jaboticaba tree. We have never seen Jaboticaba fruit sold outside of Brazil, and they apparently have a very short shelf-life, so you just may have to travel there to enjoy it!

Jaboticaba

Jaboticaba tree at Paraiso Tropical restaurant in Bahia

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Crash Course in Regional BBQ Sauces at Lillie’s Q

Our favorite part about Lillie’s Q (1856 W. North Avenue, Chicago) is their impressive selection of regional BBQ sauces at every table: six at last count, each representing a distinct BBQ region. Sampling all of the sauces at Lillie’s Q is like taking a crash course of all the major BBQ sauces in the US (for context, check out this BBQ map graphic we previously posted). As you travel from region to region, what is called “Barbecue Sauce” varies wildly, and trying them all is half the fun. If you haven’t visited Lillie’s Q yet, here’s what to expect on your whirlwind tour of US Barbecue.

Lillie's Q Sauces

Lillie’s Q Sauce Selection

  • Carolina Gold – Yellow, mustard-based sauces are typically found in South Carolina, thanks to the influence of German immigrants. This is probably our favorite kind of BBQ sauce, no doubt because we first cut our BBQ teeth in South Carolina. People used to North Carolina sauces will find South Carolina’s specialty to be nothing short of sacrilege, but we absolutely love it. This rendition was pretty good!
  • Carolina – As NC and SC continue to debate which is the real “Carolina,” North Carolina has a friendly debate of its own: whether western (“Lexington” style”) or eastern North Carolina barbecue should reign supreme (the North Carolina general assembly actually proposed a series of bills to resolve this debate). What Lillie’s calls “Carolina” sauce is typically associated with western North Carolina. Perhaps Lillie’s is taking a bit of a stand here by referring to the sauce only as Carolina, but perhaps they are also speaking to how this sauce is most commonly associated with NC BBQ outside of its home state. Typically used only on pork shoulder (the basis of Lexington style), this is a thin, vinegar-y sauce with some tomato and pepper flavor, it carries a little sweetness, but is overall tangier than other sauces.
  • E.N.C. (Eastern North Carolina) – Again speaking to an important regional divide, Eastern NC BBQ utilizes the whole hog, and its sauce differs from Lexington style on the tomato-base: E.N.C. sauce has none. This is the thinnest and tangiest sauce – pure vinegar and spice – without the sweetness of other sauces.
  • Smoky – A sweet, thick tomato-based sauce with a lot of smoke flavor, Lillie’s bills this as a Memphis-style sauce, and it shares many similarities with Kansas City BBQ sauces. It is the most popular sauce at the restaurant, and is probably the most familiar kind of sauce to the Chicago palate.
  • Hot Smoky – The same Smoky sauce with a slight Cayenne Pepper kick, but not too much at all.
  • Ivory– This mayonnaise-based white sauce was a particularly unusual option, and one we have never seen in Chicago before. Unknown to many outsiders, it is most commonly found in Alabama (especially northern Alabama), and is commonly used to dress barbecued chicken. It tastes somewhat like a thin ranch dressing, but with fewer spices. Lillie’s also encourages you to use this one as a dip for fries.

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Russian Ice Cream, Morozhenoe, for all seasons

RussiaSo as any fair-weather reader of this blog knows, we love ice cream, whether in hot or cold weather. This attitude is shared, perhaps unsurprisingly, by Russians, who enjoy ice cream year round. A recent Culture article on Russian ice cream, or morozhenoe, clued us in to this international ice cream we knew next to nothing about! Apparently Morozhenoe is served slightly soft, and has a creamier texture than US ice cream. If this piques your interest, you can try your hand at making your own Russian-style ice cream.

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Ahmed Jama, the Bravest Chef in Somalia

somaliaI recently came across an article and slideshow about Ahmed Jama, a Somali chef who left London to open a series of restaurants in Mogadishu, and is persevering, even in the face of repeated attacks. The latest attack occurred on September 7th, and killed 15. Chef Jama’s story is pretty amazing, as his mission to bring a friendly communal space to Mogadishu, opening his first restaurant in Mogadishu in 2008 (he now has 5 branches). He is currently in the process of rebuilding after the attacks, and the international community has rallied around him. Check out Chef Jama’s talk at the MAD food conference in Copenhagen below, just a few weeks ago.

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Day in the Life of a Tour de France Chef

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Hannah Grant in her mobile kitchen from Velo News

denmark_flagNow here’s an intersection of world cuisine and food trucks we had never considered… being a chef for a cycling team in the Tour de France. The Velo News blog has an interview with Hannah Grant, the official chef for the Danish team Saxo-TinkoffChef Grant hails from Denmark, and has been the team chef since 2011, and has also recently published a cookbook, “The Grand Tour Cookbook” (English translation coming soon). Beyond typical considerations of the kitchen, she also has to deal with stocking days of food without pit-stops (such as when they are in the Alps) and the specific nutritional needs of advanced athletes.  In another interview on VeloVoices, chef Grant details a typical day on the road. You can find out where Hannah and the team are on her Twitter or her blog DailyStews.

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Time Warp in Wicker Park: Artemio’s Bakery

ArtemiosSign

Artemio’s Bakery
1443 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Chicago, IL

Every time we go to Wicker Park the landscape is slightly different than the time before, with upscale stores and eateries seeming to carve out a larger footprint each visit. Time marches on, however there are some places that stay the same even though everything around them changes. One of those stalwarts is Artemio’s Bakery, which seems like it is a transplant from another era. Walk in the front door and you will feel like you are in a time warp – the bakery is crammed with wooden cases and the strong aroma of butter and sugar is unmistakable. But don’t worry, in this case a time warp is a good thing, the pastries are old-school and everything is unbelievably cheap! 25 cents for a cookie? Heck – 25 cents for anything?!?! Even in Brazil the smallest piece of candy was usually 50 cents apiece (R$ 1). Cookies at Artemio’s are only 25 cents and larger pastries like croissants or conchas are barely a dollar.

Artemios

The selection is wide (though unlabeled, so you may have to guess or ask), and you can get nearly every kind of Mexican pastry, as well as American classics. We spotted croissants, cupcakes, coconut macaroons, many types of cookies, tarts, elephant ears, doughnuts, sweet rolls and cakes by the slice including chocolate and tres leches. This time around we ordered several black and white cookies and a giant sugary croissant – both delicious – and they set us back less than $2. As we trailed sugary crumbs down Milwaukee avenue we were satiated and happy. Definitely check out Artemio’s for a cheap sugar fix and for a time warp back to old-school Wicker Park.

ArtemioPastry

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Mujin Hanbai: Stores without staff

JapanPingmag has a fascinating article about mujin hanbai, or “honor stores,” a type of farmstand in Japan that relies on the honor system. The simplest of these just has a locked cashbox, while others more resemble vending machines. They are popular nationwide, even in Tokyo. I’ve seen a few honor roadside farmstands before (one even boasting “self-serve rocks”), but nothing so elaborate as those found in Japan. Have you ever encountered something like an a honor store?

Mujin Hanbai from Pingmag

Mujin Hanbai from Pingmag

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An Encyclopedia of Street Food Around the World

Street Food Encyclopedia

The Chicago Reader had a recent post about a comprehensive street food encyclopedia, Street Food Around the World, and we are completely intrigued. We live for street food, from Acaraje to Sfincione. This hefty book covers street food from all around the world, and includes history and cultural commentary as well. Is this our perfect coffee table book?

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Cajun Cuisine at The Cabin Restaurant

The Cabin
5405 Louisiana 44
Burnside, LA

We spent our last day in Baton Rouge visiting Houmas House, a plantation about an hour outside the city, and naturally, we had some food plans to go along with our outing. When we put out an open call for restaurant recommendations near Baton Rouge and one of our readers, Justin Newhart, suggested we try the The Cabin, a spot for Cajun food not too far from Houmas House. Like many of the places we visited on our trip, The Cabin seemed to pop out of nowhere, and true to its name, was indeed a cabin. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a giant log alligator sculpture out front – welcome to Louisiana! 

The Cabin Restaurant

It is worth noting the restaurant’s architecture, which was definitely eclectic and impressive. From the road, the restaurant itself doesn’t seem very big, however, once you are inside, the space is expansive, and contains many connected buildings. There is even an impressive open-beamed high ceiling, as you can see below. Out back there is a courtyard and a complex of other small, restored buildings including slave cabins, a general store and a schoolhouse, many of which were relocated from nearby towns. Far from being a replica of old Southern buildings, The Cabin is the real deal. 

The Cabin Restaurant

We arrived at about noon Sunday, and the Cabin was doing a pretty brisk brunch business. The menu at the Cabin is large and decidedly Cajun, and especially featured seafood. There are many preparations of shrimp, crawfish and catfish, and you can even get a Po’Boy. For the indecisive, there are also a number of samplers such as the “Cabin Seafood platter” ($28.95) which comes with catfish, shrimp, oysters, crab fingers, stuffed crab, crawfish tails, crawfish Étouffée, and a cup of gumbo. L ordered the Crawfish Étouffée ($14.95) with a side of red beans and rice while M and his father went with the Cabin Special ($10.95) which included a cup of chicken and andouille sausage gumbo, jambalaya, and black-eyed peas. We got a plate of cornbread while we were waiting, which was a great match for our sweet tea in mason jars, our go-to drink order in the South.

Crawfish Etouffee and fixins at The Cabin Restaurant

Crawfish Etouffee and fixins at The Cabin Restaurant

The portions were gigantic (as you can see above), and everything was hearty and delicious. We probably could have brought some of our food home, but sadly we were off to a catch a flight home right after. The biggest hit of the day was our dessert: the buttermilk pie, which was superlative ($3.50 a slice). You can even buy the pie recipe for a dollar upon checkout. We probably should have bought the recipe, but I think we’d rather come back someday for a return trip!

The famous Buttermilk Pie

The famous Buttermilk Pie

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Crawfish festival in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

When we were in Louisiana in the fall, crawfish (aka crayfish, crawdad or mudbug) season was well over. However, if you have the good fortune to be in Cajun country in Spring, crawfish are everywhere. The epicenter for crawfish culture and consumption is the town of Breaux Bridge, “Crawfish Capital of the World,” which is just over the Atchafalaya Basin Bridge (a pretty gigantic bridge) from Baton Rouge. The names of the some of the restaurant in town seem to bear out that distinction: Crawfish Town USA, Crazy Bout Crawfish, etc. The annual Crawfish Festival in Breaux Bridge occurs in May and includes nearly every crawfish-related event you could dream of. The New Yorker has an interesting old piece about a trip to Breaux Bridge for the Festival. Hopefully we’ll be able to visit Cajun country in Spring one year to get our fill of super-fresh crawfish.

Breaux Bridge

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Roberto’s River Road Restaurant, a hidden gem

Roberto’s River Road Restaurant
1985 Louisiana 75
Sunshine, LA

Usually when someone says that a restaurant is in the middle of nowhere, it is usually hyperbole. However, if they are not exaggerating, this is the restaurant they mean. If you are driving to Roberto’s at night, it seems like you are driving into the darkness for just a mile too far, and when you are about to give up because you are truly in the middle of nowhere, Roberto’s seems to pop up just over the horizon. From the outside, Roberto’s looks like little more than a small white shack, but the inside is cozy, comfortable and a lot bigger than it looks. R4 is one of M’s dad’s favorite haunts in the vicinity of Baton Rouge, so we were very excited to try it.

Roberto's River Road Restaurant

Closing time at Roberto’s River Road Restaurant

We arrived at about 8:30, to a nearly full house, though we managed to snag one of the last tables. Roberto’s menu focuses on upscale casual Cajun food, especially seafood. The dish that came most highly recommended to us was River Road Shrimp (available as either an appetizer or an entree over pasta), which consisted of shrimp in a bell pepper and spicy brandy butter sauce, so we knew we had to try it. There were also several dishes that featured crawfish: our favorite Cajun staple, Etouffe; a crawfish and Portobella mushroom pasta; and the quizzically named Catfish Dot – a grilled catfish filet topped with herbed crawfish (this was the option we went for). Fish of the Day in Papillote also came highly recommended – the catch of the day wrapped in parchment paper and baked with lemon and herbs.

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We started out with a cup of chicken and sausage gumbo (there is also seafood gumbo) – which was delicious  – extremely rich and flavorful. The seafood dishes were similarly tasty, and surprisingly light. For once we did not feel guilty about indulging in Cajun flavors (though of course there are fried options, too). For dessert we tried a special: cookies and cream bread pudding, which was excellent, but definitely did not need the extra sweetness of the marshmallow sauce. We managed to stick around until closing time, though the restaurant was still buzzing from a squad car full of Baton Rouge’s finest and a crowd that came in on an LSU stretch limo. Roberto’s may be off the beaten path, but it is definitely worth a little drive.

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Tsunami: Sushi with a view in Baton Rouge

Tsunami
100 Lafayette Street
Baton Rouge, LA

JapanIf you’re looking for scenery with your sushi, Tsunami definitely impresses. Located on top of the Shaw Center for the Arts, Tsunami is an upscale sushi restaurant with a bar and a terrace with a panoramic view of Baton Rouge and the Mississippi river. We had a very pleasant dinner at Tsunami with M’s dad and his friend Chuck, who are both experts on Baton Rouge restaurants and nightlife. M’s Dad knew we are always looking for good local restaurants, so he wisely picked Tsunami as an upscale option.

Tsunami

Tsunami’s  dining room and view

Though there are Japanese entrees available including Japanese dishes like Tonkatsu ($15) and Chicken Teriyaki ($16), Tsunami’s focus is sushi. Tsunami serves a variety of innovative rolls, with a few Cajun touches sprinkled in, which we appreciated! For example, check out the Ragin’ Cajun Roll ($8) – only in Louisiana! – with panko fried alligator and avocado. We also ordered the Jazz Roll ($10), which includes snow crab, asparagus, boiled shrimp in a soy paper; and the 412 Roll ($16), with cream cheese, asparagus, tuna, avocado and crunchy shrimp topped with tuna and avocado. There are also Nigiri (for $5 to 8 each) which would appeal more to the sushi purist with varieties like Yellowtail, Tuna and Salmon Roe.

Tsunami Sushi

Tsunami Sushi

While we were waiting for the sushi to arrive we snapped some pictures of the river and the town, and on a more temperate night, it certainly would have been a great place to eat (it was 95 degrees when we dined!). Our sushi arrived, and we were immediately impressed by the presentation (and a little by the prodigious portion size as well). We also ordered a special roll with tempura shrimp that was particularly tasty though the portion was gigantic. The fish was very fresh, and we appreciated the special Cajun touches that you could not get at a sushi restaurant “up north.” To finish off our meal we enjoyed chocolate cake, elegantly served with ice cream and Pocky Sticks in a bento box. Though we enjoyed the food, the view was the true superstar. Tsunami is a perfect place for a date night (we witnessed a few) or for a group of friends. It was a wonderful suggestion!

View of Baton Rouge from Tsunami

View of Baton Rouge from Tsunami terrace

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Cajun Street Food in Baton Rouge: Boudin

The pronunciation of some words is enough to separate locals from tourists, and connoisseurs from newbies. One of those such words is “Boudin.” Boudin, a rice-stuffed pork sausage from Louisiana, is pronounced “boo-dan” not “boo-deen,” as one might expect. Boudin is found all over Cajun country (you can even take “Boudin Trail” tour), and is descended from sausages found in French Acadian cuisine. Boudin is available in any good Louisiana Cajun restaurant or grocery store, but we think we have found our favorite way to enjoy Boudin – as a late-night Po’Boy topped with pulled pork.

Southern Dawgz Stand -ready for night owls

Southern Dawgz Stand -ready for night owls

We found this particular incarnation of Boudin sold in a stand called Southern Dawgz on the corner of Florida and 3rd in downtown Baton Rouge. The truck is there most Thursday-Saturday nights (until 2 AM!), and there is a small selection of items, though most everyone is there for the Boudin. You can get a basic Boudin dog, or a “Bleu” topped with blue cheese or a “Heart Attack” topped with bacon. The cookmaster of this particular Boudin stand is Jerry, who is actually from Southern Ohio, and sous chef is from Indiana. Boudin is often sold in fried “Boudin Balls” much like meatballs, but at Southern Dawgz you get them in a form similar to brats. We ordered a smoked Boudin Po’Boy, which was great. The filling was perfectly seasoned, and the Boudin link had a charred snap. However, Jerry upped the ante by suggesting we try the stand’s “Red Dawg,” a Boudin dog topped with pulled pork and a tomato-based BBQ sauce. The pulled pork was a great addition, and contributed even more to the ultimate late night pig out!

Southern Dawg

Southern Dawg photo by digbatonrouge.com

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The Best Po’Boy in New Orleans: Parkway Bakery and Tavern

Parkway Bakery and Tavern
538 Hagan Ave.
New Orleans, LA

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It’s been nearly two years since we first became obsessed with New Orleans’ quintessential local sandwich, the Po’Boy. Though we had heard of them before coming to Louisiana, and they are available at a few Southern spots in Chicago, our first real experience with Po’Boys in NOLA was in November 2011 at the Oak Street Po’Boy festival. That day we tried a bunch of different sandwiches, but our Po’Boy from Parkway Bakery and Tavern was among our favorite samples. We think of the festival as a pretty formative experience, and we even had a paper Parkway Bakery hat we kept as a souvenir. Though we won’t make it back to the Fest again this year, we were lucky enough to spend a day in New Orleans on our Louisiana tour, and made it a priority to seek out Parkway’s on-site offerings, widely claimed to be the best and city, produced in a restaurant and which claims to be the place where the Po’Boy sandwich originated

A Po’Boy sandwich (short for Poor Boy) consists of a particular type of French roll, with a crusty exterior and soft interior, filled (traditionally) with fried fish or seafood (we are partial to fried shrimp) and “dressed” with mayo, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles. As we learned at the Po’Boy fest, the term really encompasses a wide range of sandwiches, and the filling could truly be anything you have a taste for. Parkway in Mid City, is (thankfully) far off the tourist track, though it is certainly a popular place with locals from all walks of life. When you walk into Parkway Tavern you are first greeted by an unassuming bar and a handful of tall table. However, you can either order at the bar or at the walk-up counter and then wait for a place at a communal table either indoors or outdoors.

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Parkway has a pretty extensive menu of Po’Boys, including fried shrimp, fried oyster, fried catfish, fried sweet potato (for the vegetarians among us), BBQ beef, and many more. There are non-Po’Boy options available, but we question both the sanity and taste level of those who order them. Wanting to be traditionalists on this day, we opted for the classic fried shrimp Po’Boy while M’s dad went eclectic and got a “Surf ‘N Turf,” a combo of shrimp and roast beef, considered a Parkway specialty and client favorite. We placed our order and the counter and waited patiently for our name to be called. A few minutes (which seemed like an eternity) later we were delivered our picture-perfect Po’Boys – see proof below.

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The Parkway Po’Boy is truly a thing of beauty. The key to a good Po’Boy is the combination of ingredients on the crusty bread, and at Parkway, everything seemed to work in perfect harmony. The chefs care as well: even given the very high output, this was our first experience with the men behind the counter carefully double-checking our order to make sure they got everything right. And did they: the shrimp we freshly fried (turnover would seem to guarantee that), the portion was more than generous, and the toppings balanced the sandwich perfectly. We all opted for the “regular” size Po’Boys, which was more than enough: though it may be possible for a single person to finish a “large,” we wouldn’t recommend it. If you are extra-hungry there are Zapp’s potato chips and a few desserts, too. If we lived in New Orleans we know this would be one of our favorite spots. Though we always have more places to try, we can’t help but agree with the locals: The Best Po’Boys in NOLA in an unpretentious, local spot for a great price. We’ll have to make the pilgrimage every year.

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Our Louisiana Adventure

The area around Lafitte, LA (seen by airboat

The area around Lafitte, LA (seen by airboat)

Last weekend we had the good fortune to visit M’s dad in Louisiana – where we had a fun time exploring Baton Rouge, Cajun Country, and even spending a day in New Orleans. We had a lot of fun seeing the sights and eating as much as we could, from every type of cuisine available (including some tasty grub at an extravagant LSU tailgate). In the next few weeks we’ll be talking about some of the places we were fortunate enough to visit, thanks to recommendations from friends, family and even ETW readers. In the mean time, here are the stops we made on our food journey:

  • Southern Dawgz, Baton Rouge
  • Chelsea’s, Baton Rouge
  • Tsunami, Baton Rouge
  • Parkway Bakery and Tavern, New Orleans
  • Cafe du Monde, New Orleans
  • Roberto’s River Road Resataurant, Sunshine, LA
  • The Cabin, Burnside, LA

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Songpyeon (rice cakes) for Chuseok, the Korean Harvest festival

koreaToday is the last day of the 3-day Korean harvest holiday, Chuseok, which is centered around the full moon during the autumn equinox. Many Chuseok activities relate to paying respects to ancestors, with families visiting their ancestral homelands, cleaning graves and making offerings of foods to the deceased. Of course, as with any holiday, traditional foods have pride of place, and one of the most traditional Chuseok foods is Songpyeon (송편). Songpyeon is a sweet chewy cake made with rice flour, and filled with honey, red bean paste, sesame seeds (or another sweet filling). Though the traditional shape is half-moon, Songpyeon can come in a myriad of colors and flavors. They are also traditionally layered on top of pine needles, which does make everything taste a little like pine! Tradition also holds that it is important to make the prettiest Songpyeon possible, since the prettier the cake, the prettier you future child will be. The Korean Bapsang blog has a guide to making your own Songpyeon, in a variety of colors and flavors.

Songpyeon

Songpyeon by Korea.net

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First look at Next Restaurant’s Bocuse d’Or

franceThe ever-exciting Next Restaurant has moved on to their newest menu: a tribute to Bocuse d’Or, a prestigious biennial international cooking competition in Lyon, France. Check out the official trailer for the menu below. So what can we expect from Bocuse d’Or? The menu, running through December has 15 courses and is decidedly French, with canapes, veal terrine and pheasant dishes. Micheal Gebert has a fascinating behind-the-scenes photo series on all the prep involved in putting together the Bocuse meal at Next. For those want another look at what diners can expect, photographer Emilia Jane has a complete photo series of the dinner menu. Beautiful presentation and original food from Next as usual!

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iNG Restaurant Street Food Menu Photos

Back in August we talked about the upcoming Global Street food menu at iNG. Well it’s here, and Serious Eats: Chicago got a first look. Judging by their pictures alone, the menu looks pretty impressive. We are especially intrigued by the deconstructed cannoli and churros. The menu is limited time only, so get it while you can.

Falafel at iNG restaurant, via Serious Eats

Falafel at iNG restaurant, via Serious Eats

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