Peru: Inka Heritage

peru Inka Heritage [Closed]
602 S Park Street
Madison, WI

First off, Inka Heritage gets major cultural awareness points for using Juan Velasco’s 1975 Quechua orthography that spells “Inka” with a K instead of a C (which is an Imperial Spanish spelling). Velasco wasn’t the best guy, but his transliterations were top-notch. Well done. Now on to the food.

We tend to review a fair amount of Peruvian restaurants, and with good reason – we feel that Peruvian cuisine is well on its way to competing with Thai food as a major player in the US food scene. Which is why we were so excited when Inka Heritage, the first Peruvian restaurant in the Madison city limits, opened in 2007. We have been back multiple times since our first visit shortly after the opening (when they could not make nearly half the items on their own menu) but are happy to report that the restaurant has grown into its own with great interpretations of all the classic Peruvian dishes, as well as the best lúcuma mousse we’ve found outside Peru.

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At most Peruvian restaurants, I have my set of usuals: anticuchos, an originally Afro-Peruvian dish of skewered, marinated pieces of beef heart with a side a ají, and ceviche pescado acid cooked in citrus juice and garnished with sweet potatoes and big corn (I still don’t know the proper name for it). L likes to get the aji de pollo, shredded chicken smothered in an aji cream sauce garnished with a hard-boiled egg and served with rice. And for dessert, we split the aforementioned lúcuma mousse; made from an Andean fruit rarely available outside of South America with a taste somewhere between sweet potatoes, maple syrup, and cashews. It is delectable.

CIMG1952 Inka Heritage does all these things, and does them well. The anticuchos are true to the original dish, using the best pieces of beef heart muscle (some other restaurants keep the anticuchos marinade but substitute white meat chicken for the beef hearts, which is not only inauthentic but culinary highway robbery) with a slightly spicy, tangy marinade that works well with the ají on the side. The ceviche too is solid, with the right citrus juice mixtures we’ve come to expect – though the very high onions to fish ratio, as well as the smaller serving size, makes us wonder why the price is higher than what we found at Rosa de Lima in Chicago. L’s aji de pollo is a failsafe dish, one we do not always see at other restaurants, and well worth it at Inka Heritage. The dish’s cream sauce is packed with interesting flavor combinations (“yellow pepper, garnished with roasted walnut, fresh parmesan cheese, botija black olive, boiled egg” says the menu) that are probably best suited to the shredded chicken, allowing all the flavors to surround each chicken piece. Mix in with the rice, and it is easily one of Inka Heritage’s best dishes.CIMG1954

The menu does, of course, offer a number of other options outside of our traditional favorites that are well worth sampling, particularly in the seafood department. Overall, Inka Heritage can run a bit on the pricy side (the average entrée is about $13), but the restaurant’s increasingly elegant ambience (considerably moreso now than when it opened) make it a great place for a classy night out with a group or date. Madison has a number of great dining options, but we try to get back as often as we can – especially to introduce friends to Peruvian cuisine who have not tried it before.

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Tea Tuesday: Guang Sang Tea / Roland Tea Tins

Vanilla Tea Hong KongWe’re not going to lie, we are drawn to nice food packaging designs. Of course this extends to one of our passions, tea, as well. If you’re perusing though the aisles of any Chinese grocery story or specialty store you’ll usually be able to find some nicely packaged teas in appealing tins of all shapes and sizes. So when we went to the Chinese gift emporium Pearl River Market in NYC (477 Broadway,  between Grand St. and Broom St. in Soho) we thought we must have hit the jackpot. Pearl River is a veritable pantheon of garish, fun and colorful tea tins. Some of the showiest tins, with something of a retro flair, come from a Hong Kong company called Guang Sang Tea (which also goes by the imprint Roland). If you’re not in NYC, you can peruse the selection of tea tins at Pearl River online. The Roland vanilla tea tin at left is one of our favorites.

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Friday Foodie Links: Links Smorgasbord

There’s no theme this week. Just some interesting links and tidbits:

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Assyria: Sahara Kabob [closed]

800px-FlagofAssyria.svg Sahara Kabob
6649 N Clark
Chicago, IL

The 3.3 million Assyrians alive today have not had a country of their own in over 2,000 years; and even if it still existed, the Assyrian Empire is not exactly near the Sahara. Nevertheless, an Assyrian family founded Sahara Kabob on North Clark Street in Chicago, and while we still do not understand the name (though it is better than the previous name, “Big Buns and Pita”), we cannot argue with the seemingly endless amounts of really cheap, really tasty food.

IL00001We should have realized what we were in for when the reviews on Yelp said “humongous portions.” Not heeding their advice and logically thinking two dinner portions would be just enough for two hungry people, we set about making our menu choices. It was a busy night, so we opted for carry-out. The Combo Plate seemed like a good option, with helpings of chicken and kefta (ground beef and lamb) kabob and chicken shawirma served on white rice (my choice over couscous) with small sides of grilled and pickled veggies. Turns out it also comes with a soup – I picked douckua, a thick concoction of meat and barley in yogurt sauce. L went with the vegetarian route, picking the falafel plate (it comes with eight pieces) over couscous with lentil soup on the side. We added in a small appetizer of boorek, meaty egg rolls with chili dipping sauce, and figured we had enough for dinner.

When we arrived at the restaurant 20 minutes later (note the quick turnaround time on our order) we were greeted by simple, no-frills décor with enough artifacts to lend an air of Assyrian authenticity to the place. It helped that the only other customers were speaking a Middle Eastern language we did not understand – always a good sign when orderingIL00002 non-American food. When our food came out, we were shocked by how much we were getting. Two completely full take-out boxes, two full bowls of soup, plus the bowl of couscous, the boorek, and a small assortment of complimentary dipping sauces. All for $20. As she wrapped up our order, the server asked if we liked baklava. We gave a hesitant yes, thinking she would push us to buy some, but were surprised when she plopped a free serving right into our bag. At this point, we knew we had ordered way too much food. But was it way too much good food?

Yes. We started with the boorek, a really interesting marriage of an egg roll with a spiced meat filling and a dipping sauce that tasted like Sriracha. The lentil soup was excellent as well, flavorful and light (though not as good as the reigning favorite from Taste of Lebanon). The douckua I ordered cannot really be classified as a soup – think of it more as a meat salad with a strong, flavorful yogurt sauce laced with special seasonings and barley. L did not much care for it, but I thought it was interesting and new, and definitely worth a try. L’s couscous was a litIL00003tle disappointing, tinged with almost a Ms. Grass-like flavor, but the rest of the meal was a home run. My combo plate was solid all the way around from shawirma to the kabobs, with solid cuts of beef, lamb, and chicken all grilled to perfection. L’s falafel was solid as well, easily compared to other excellent falafels we have had in the past.

Good as the food was, if there is one reason to order from Sahara Kabob, it is that you can easily double the value of your money over similar places. Our $20 gave us both two days worth of solid meals – on the first night, I was barely able to put a dent in my combo plate after eating the boorek and the douckua. Add on to that the satisfaction of supporting a family-run, locally-owned business and you have the makings of a great north side take-out (or dine-in) stop.

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Friday Foodie Links: Best of Lists

We like lists here at ETW, and we (obviously) also liek food, so best of food lists are pretty much our favorite thing.

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Tea Tuesday: Alternative Tea Party

chinaWe are really loving the blog Appetite for China lately. They have lovely pictures, and we are learning all sorts of fascinating facts about Chinese cuisine. One AforC  post in particular that struck us was about an alternative tea party, featuring food made with tea, including classic tea eggs and tea flavored banana bread. Well, when we think ‘tea party’ it conjures up images of either kids and dolls or old stuffy ladies with watercress sandwiches, so we were pretty inspired. The recipe for Matcha Almond Icebox Cookies sounded so good we might make them for our own alternative tea party. No watercress allowed.

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The transnational Macanese egg tart

MacauThe egg tart may be the perfect example of a truly transnational and international food! Egg tarts are pretty simple in their perfection, baked egg custard in a flaky pastry shell. Egg tarts are a big part of Macanese cuisine, and expanded later in Hong Kong and China. Macau was a former colony of Portugal. The egg tart was supposedly invented at Lord Stow’s on the island of Coloane in Macau. The tarts are related to the Portuguese Pastel de Nata an egg tart that is something of a national institution.

The tarts were introduced to Hong Kong in the 1940s through tea houses called cha chaan teng, which are known for their extensive selections of snacks and treats. Today, in Hong Kong and Taiwan you can even get Egg Tarts from KFC.

ETartCopy

One major differentiation between a Macanese egg tart and a regular egg tart is that the Macanese varieties have a layer of caramelized sugar on top. You can get these little treats for a steal at many bakeries around town. We got this tart above for only $0.95 at Richwell Market in Chinatown – where you can get both plain and Macau-style tarts. For a taste of Macau via Portugal, China and Hong Kong, that’s a pretty good deal.

Richwell Market
1835 S Canal St

Chicago, IL 60616

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Friday Foodie Link: The Tasting Cultures Group

The Tasting Cultures Group is a new organization dedicated to “developing multi-platform educational programs and events in collaboration with culinary, agricultural, sustainability experts, artists, educators, chefs, scientists, and filmmakers.” And generally based around some really delicious recipes. The group sponsors cooking classes, lectures, exhibits, and artist collaborations throughout the USA. We are particularly excited about the TCG’s exhibit: “Tasting Cultures: The Art of African/American Foodways” opening soon in Charleston, SC. The Eaters will be in South Carolina next month doing some in-depth barbecue research, so we will definitely stop by.

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French Indochina: Le Colonial

Le Colonial
N. Rush
Chicago, IL

180px-flag_of_colonial_vietnamsvgYes, we are aware that French Indochina does not exist. However, Le Colonial does its best to channel a romantic fin-de-siècle Vietnamese atmosphere with elegant decor and potted palms. We enjoyed a very continental 9 o’clock dinner, which was too dark for a good ambiance shot – so here’s a photo from the restaurant’s website. The menu itself is a fusion of Vietnamese dishes with some French flavors and techniques.interiorlc

To start off we ordered a few appetizers. M ordered Banh cuon (9.50), which was a chicken and mushroom stuffed rice noodle ravioli. It came with a delicious lime garlic sauce. L started with Tom cuon ram (10.50) which were shrimp beignets with an orange ginger sauce.

For entrees, L ordered the Tom xao sate ($24), which was a sauteed mixture of spicy shrimp and asparagus over a bed of rice. This is not a dumbed-down dish. It had more than a little heat to it and some great bite from the garlic and ginger. M ordered Ga xao xa ot (19) lemongrass-flavored chicken and portobello mushrooms, with a basil chili sauce. M felt the lemongrass was a bit overpowering, but L being a lemongrass lover was not bothered.

We don’t know how we had any room left after all of that food, but the Ciao Bella gelato looked enticing so we each had a scoop of mango (M requested his with chocolate sauce). And perhaps coolest of all, as we were sipping on our after-dessert espresso we had a Stephanie Izard sighting. Guess we were in the right place!

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36 Hours in Philadelphia

Philly is one of our favorite foodie spots so we are happy to see it getting some love in the NYTimes Travel section. Naturally, food features prominently on the list, including our favorites the Italian Market and Silk City. If you’re thinking about going to Philly (and you should) you should check it out!

PhiladelphiaCityHall

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Friday Foodie Link: Recipe Attribution

Hmmm, this is a tricky one, and very appropos. How should you porperly cite a recipe on a food blog? David wrote an insightful post on the Food Blog Alliance about just this problem, andif you think about it – it’s not black and white at all! For example – how much does a recipe have to change from a cookbook to be ‘your own’? Some rules of thumb: when in doubt – always give attribution and link to cookbooks and websites you get your links from. Better safe than sorry.

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¡Feliz Cinco de Mayo!

Mexico FlagCinco de Mayo is actually more widely celebrated in the US than in Mexico, where it is primarily a holiday in the state of Puebla. The Cinco de Mayo holiday celebrates the defeat of the French army by the Mexican army in the Battle of Puebla, on May 5, 1862. So while most Cinco de Mayo restaurant specials in the area involve Margaritas, we decided to put up some tasty Poblano foods.

The New York Times called Puebla the “Lyon of Mexico” – known internationally for its fine cuisine. We certainly can’t argue with that, since Puebla has given us some of our favorite dishes like mole poblano. Mole Poblano is usually what people think of when they hear ‘mole’ in the US – the complex spicy sauce made from dried peppers with a hint of chocolate. Chiles en nogada is another archetypal Poblano dish. It’s particularly festive  – especially since it is red (pomegranate), green (poblano pepper) and white (walnut sauce), the colors of the Mexican Flag. Elise at Simply recipes has a recipe for this photogenic dish. Epicurious has a few more delicious recipes including a tasty-sounding chicken and potato stew.

If you’ve got a hankering for Poblano cuisine and you don’t feel like staying in, you could also head out to Cemitas Puebla (3619 W. North Avenue) for some of the best cemitas (Poblano sandwiches on eggy bread) in Chicago!

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Friday Foodie Links: Hello, Goodbye

Goodbye: One of our favorite Madison Restaurant, Restaurant Magnus is changing its menu from Brazilian/Pan-Latin to Norwegian! It seems the Brazilian chef has left, and that since the owners and sous-chef are all Norwegian they thought they would make a go of a new Scandinavian menu. While we’re sure Norwegian food will appease some, we are not pleased. The new menu starts on June 1, so try to get some chimichurri while you still can.

Hello:
However, we are heartened to hear that Chicago’s reigning king of the Mole, Geno Bahena is going to be opening a new restaurant on Monday called Los Moles, specializing in nothing but mole! The restaurant is located at 3140 N. Lincoln Ave.

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Quick Bite: Bangkok Cafe

Bangkok Cafe
17 N Vail Ave
Arlington Heights, IL 60005

Downtown Arlington Heights is a surprisingly nice little place, with a range of restaurants ranging from bars to Spanish Tapas. And for the burbs, it has a surprising number of Thai places, too. However, Bangkok Cafe is a notch above the typical strip-mall Thai offering endemic to the area. All in all, Bangkok Cafe is the type of local Thai place you would expect to find in a trendier area of Chicago – not too expensive (dishes under about $9 apiece), muted, modern decor, with the requisite gamut of noodle and curry dishes represented.

MCurry

A friend in town and I were craving Thai while in the area, so we decided to give Bangkok Cafe a try. We stuck with some standby favorites – Mussaman Curry and the Pad See Eiw, though the menu did offer some more unusual seafood dishes. The  Mussaman curry was good, but seemed to contain less coconut milk than usual, though it came with a nice topping of cashews. The Pad See Eiw was a bit unusual in that it came ontop 0f a bed of spinach – never seen that presentation before!

We were pleased with our meals, and the atmosphere of the restaurant was pleasant and conducive to chatting (though it was surprisingly full of teenagers at the time). We hear Bangkok Cafe also does a brisk lunch business and has a $6.99 special. Bangkok Cafe doesn’t break  the mold (or the bank), but it’s a great place for a nice, low key dinner in the burbs if you are craving solid American Thai food.

PadSE

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Tea Tuesday: Two Leaves and a Bud

Colorado-based tlabDarTwo Leaves and a Bud is a brand of tea we’ve been enjoying recently. They specialize in whole-leaf single origin teas from India, China, Japan and Africa. We’re a big fan of the delicate Darjeeling tea from India and the Tamayokucha from Japan. You can buy the teas either loose, or in pyramid-shaped sachets made out of a biodegradable cornstarch material (they don’t melt in your tea, though!). A feature of the site we particularly enjoy is the tea map, which provides the latitude and longitude of where their teas are sourced. It’s no secret we love maps.

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Friday Foodie Link: Indian restaurant decoder

India FlagWow – here’s something that’s fun and pretty useful: Evil Mad Scientist’s Indian restaurant menu pocket decoder! We’ve been to a lot of Indian restaurants, but sometimes we still get a little lost if there are no descriptions under some more unusual dishes. Enter the decoder!  Granted it’s not comprehensive (but what guide could be?), but it’s coming with us on our next trip to an Indian Restaurant.

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Chile: Carica

CaricaJarchileI’m always intrigued by new dishes, but it’s not often I encounter an entirely new fruit. So when I saw something called a Carica mysteriously jarred at Brennan’s in Madison, I knew I had to try it. So, what’s a Carica? It’s a sweet fruit, grown in South America, especially in Chile, and it is also known as a Mountain papaya. Despite the name, it’s not exaclty like the type of papaya we are familiar with here in the states. It certainly tastes different – with tinges of pear and peach alongside a the more familiar papaya notes. Carica would be good with anything that usually calls for a papaya. We like them over ice cream!  The main importer of Carica in the US is Tamaya (check out their site for recipes), we don’t know of any places you can get it fresh yet.

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Delicious Mexican food in the suburbs: Bien Trucha

Bien Truchail00010
410 W. State St.
Geneva, IL

If this is not the tiniest restaurant in Chicagoland, we would like to know what is. Occupying a small storefront originally inhabited by a nail salon, Bien Trucha (“Good Trout”) has five small tables with a maximum seating capacity of no more than 15; a reviewer on Serious Eats says it has “the square footage of a Volkswagen Jetta.” Yet all the food in this tiny place comes at you with an amazing amount of flavor and creativity, making it into one of the blogosphere’s new favorite Mexican restaurants. Obviously, we had to go. What we found was a tiny restaurant with a great knack for doing simple ingredients and flavors amazingly well.

cevicheWe started with a pair of appetizers: Mexican-style ceviche ($7.95) and Poblano chile soup with potato cubes and queso fresco ($3.95). M is not normally a fan of Mexican ceviche (he goes for Peruvian when he can) but found this better than most others he has tried: the tomatoes, fresh fish, cilantro, lime juice, and avocado were served in a more generous portion than is typically found, and the extra juice from the limes and tomatoes kept the entire mixture very well-balanced, both in flavors and texture. Likewise, the Poblano chile soup was a treat, and managed to be both creamy and light. Straight, simple, and to the point – a great prelude to the rest of our meal, and an excellent warm, smooth appetizer to pair with the ceviche.

But Bien Trucha’s tacos are their specialty. We tried three varieties, all on flour tortillas: Camarón Tacos (grilled spiced shrimp with an avocado slice, tacos-pescado$9.95;); Bien Trucha Tacos (grilled skirt steak, chorizo, manchego cheese and tomatillo-serrano salsa, $8.95) and Tacos de Pescado (battered fried tilapia, cabbage, onion, lime and chipotle aoili, $8.95). Each variety was nearly perfect. Served in groups of four on a simple wooden board, their presentation is a perfect complement to Bien Trucha’s style. What really stood out to us was how fresh everything was – even the fish tacos were great all this way inland. While we don’t know if these tacos are worth a 2 hour drive, if you are anywhere near the West suburbs, they’re worth the trip.

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Friday Foodie Link: Feasting on Art

Art and food have always been interrelated. Perhaps its not a coincidence that the first still life for many painters-in-training is of a bowl of fruit. Feasting on Art takes this connection to a whole new level. A piece of artwork which features food is selected, and a recipe inspired by the artwork is also posted. Recent posts have included Pico de Gallo inspired by Frida Kahlo and Asparagus with Hollandaise sauce inspired by Manet. The photographs alone are worth a visit. Beautiful!

fantinlatour[Painting by Henri Fantin-Latour]

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Recipes for Fromage Fort

Don’t quote us yet- but we believe we may have just stumbled upon the best use for leftover cheese ever. Fromage Fort (‘strong cheese’ in French) is an easy-as-pie recipe that turns leftover bits of cheese into a delicious spread – all you need is a little white wine and a few herbs. So it’s not really a recipe, just a good idea with infinite variations. Jacques Pepin has a nice simple take on the spread, as does Alton Brown. Why have we never heard of this recipe before?cheesedespana

[Spanish cheese at España in NYC]

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