Tag Archives: Italy

March 13, 2013 · 10:15 AM

Pastry Post-Doc in Italy: Neapolitan Pastiera for Easter

ItalyThough some Southern Italian delicacies have made their ways to the American shores: Rum Baba, Cannoli, among others, we had not encountered Pastiera (also known as Pastiera di Grano) until our trip to Naples. Pastiera is especially associated with Easter (though we also found it in Pasticcerias in November). Pastiera was developed in modern times by a Neapolitan convent, but also has an older history related to pagan Springtime festivals (hence the inclusion of wheat and egg). Pastiera is composed of a pastry shell with a ricotta, wheat and egg filling, which may also be flavored with citrus or spices. Pastiera is unique – and in order to make it you need to prepare a special wheat mixture (unless you have access to prepared soaked wheat – which this recipe includes). While in Naples we saw large Pastiera pies even being sold in tins – perfect for every Easter table.

Pastiera in Naples

A slice of pastiera in Naples by Yuichi Sakuraba

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March 5, 2013 · 11:45 AM

The Best Pizza in Ouro Preto: O Passo

Pizzaria O Passo 
Rua São José 56
Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais, Brazil

brazilItalySo of course, after singing the praises of Mineira cuisine, the first food post of our food adventures in Minas Gerais is the decidedly non-Mineiro pizza! But no worries, even though pizza is an import to Brazil, Brazilians have latched onto it – and O Passo does an excellent rendition of pizza. We decided we needed more of a leisurely meal after walking down the grueling hills of Ouro Preto, and O Passo was consistently referenced as one of the best restaurants in Ouro Preto. The stock in trade at O Passo is pizza – though there are a variety of other Italian specialties – including a large assortment of antipasti, pastas and Italian wines.

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The setting of O Passo is great – with a nice little terrace overlooking the botanic gardens (which are unfortunately closed). The pizzas come in 3 sizes – Individual, Medium and Large. The individual is roughly plate-sized and had 4 slices. Each was more than big enough for each of us (R$ 28 per individual pizza). There were 4 full pages of pizza flavors ranging from classic Italian combinations as Margherita and Quattro Formaggi as well as Brazilian flavors like Minas cheese and Frango & Catupiry.

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M selected a (slightly) healthier riff on the quattro formaggi – the quattro tomate – which came topped with mozzarella, sundried tomatoes, tomato sauce, heirloom tomatoes and roma tomatoes. All the toppings were fresh; with the heirloom tomatoes still sweet and the sundried ones with a great flavor. L picked a cheesier variety with a Mineiro touch: Minas cheese and Buffalo Mozzarella with roasted garlic and fresh basil. Before too long, our pizzas arrived piping hot to our tables. They had more of a cracker-style crust unlike the Neapolitan style of pizza with a more leavened and bubbly dough. We were big fans of these pizzas – especially the crunchy crusts and generous toppings.  All told, about US$30 for two excellent pizzas in a beautiful terrace in this great colonial town? It wasn’t Mineira cuisine, but it is all the more reason to visit Ouro Preto.

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December 24, 2012 · 11:01 AM

A Holiday Feast of the Seven Fishes

Feast of the Seven Fishes by Austin Kleon

It’s Christmas Eve – which means it’s time for the Feast of the Seven Fishes known as “festa dei sette pesci” in Italian or alternatively as “Vigilia (the Vigil).” We posted briefly on this topic previously, but we figured it would be a good time to expand upon it. The Feast of the Seven Fishes originates from the Catholic tradition of not eating meat on the eve of special holy days, where fish would be consumed instead. The tradition has especially caught on in Italian-American communities, and inventive menus including baccala, calamari, lobster, shrimp and more adorn many “7 Fishes” tables.

Along with the requisite assortment of fishes, sides of veggies and Christmastime desserts like struffoli complete the meal. Traditional or not, any fish dish is welcome at a modern-day feast of two fishes in America. Mario Batali has a traditional Italian menu featuring anchovies, clam and mussels. The Bite Sized blog is cooking their way through an eclectic Feast of the Seven Fishes including Oysters Rockefeller. For those among us who aren’t terribly fond of fish, Buzzfeed has a tongue-in-cheek version of the feast featuring Goldfish Crackers and Swedish Fish. We also like Meatballs and Milkshakes‘ take on the meal, opting for a small menu – doesn’t a bay scallop crudo sound nice?

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December 23, 2012 · 10:50 PM

Holiday Eats Around the World: Panettone from Italy

At our favorite grocery store in Lisbon there was an entire wall of Panettone, in distinctive paper boxes, in sizes ranging from tiny to one that would feed an army battalion. This is a testament to both the Portuguese love for Panettone and also the sheer variety of Panettone available. Panettone is a yeast-based Christmas sweet bread from Milan, Italy – traditionally it had pieces of citrus and nuts – however there are other varieties with chocolate or even cream filling. Panettone’s particularly light and fluffy texture is the result of a complicated proofing process (similar to Sourdough bread). Though it originated in Italy, Panettone has flown way past the Italian (and European) borders and is readily available in the US and in South America.

PanettoneBox

A variety of Panettone for sale in Munich

The origin of Panettone is probably the Roman Empire, but I was surprised to learn that it only became commercially available in the 1920s.   Needless to say, it wouldn’t be an Italian Christmas or New Year without some Panettone. The large size Panettone is a lot for one person to handle, so sharing it with family and friends is probably a good idea (M swears by eating it the next day as toast with butter and cinnamon, or you could make a bread pudding). We’ve never tried making Panettone, though these miniature cranberry Panettones seem to be more manageable. Recipe Roll and King Arthur flour have  recipes for a classic Panettone, and Sur Le Table even has Panettone baking molds in traditional parchment.

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November 26, 2012 · 2:02 PM

Naples Pizza Quest: Da Michele

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale, 1,
80139 Naples

We had a great time at I Decamuni, but our pizza quest could not stop there. We pushed forward to what we heard was the best (and busiest) pizzeria in Naples, Da Michele. It is also one of the most famous owing to a certain recent Hollywood movie appearance (we won’t mention which one) and simple word of mouth over the years since its opening in 1870. We heard that there would be lines snaking in front of Da Michele long before the 11 AM opening times, and that we should be prepared for hordes and hours of waiting. Steeled for a potentially harrowing experience, we arrived at Da Michele at 11 AM on a Monday, surprised to find only ONE other table filled. By the time we left, there were still a few tables open, and no line. So take the warnings with a grain of salt (at least in low tourist season, on a Monday).

Interior of Da Michele

We beat the crowds.

Da Michele is a simple place – the tables are spartan and the menus are taped to the wall. The menu at Da Michele is extremely limited – only 2 pizzas on offer:  Margherita and a Marinara. The marinara is simply marinara sauce and garlic. How’s that for simplicity? We ordered a Margherita with doppia (double) mozzarella (5€), which we figured was a good bet as well as a “normal sized” marinara pizza (4€). Each pizza came in either “normal” or “medium” sizes, and the Marinara also came in “maxi.” The doppia mozzarella Margherita did not have a size assigned – but we assume it is a normal size. Even at their smallest, the Da Michele pizzas are large enough to cover an entire dinner plate.

DaMichele pizza master

Da Michele pizza master at work.

So we placed our orders and sat in anticipation for the pizzas. One thing that is constantly impressive is the speed at which the pizzas fly out. Da Michele was a well-oiled machine, with an old gentleman at the pizza dough helm, quietly and meticulously forming and topping the pizzas. You could tell he had been doing this for decades. Our pizzas went into the roaring ovens and a few minutes later they were done. And what pizza! The crust was light and fluffy, but with some bite, and some nice char. Moreover, the crust held up well to all of the toppings. The cheese on the doppia pizza was generously applied and fresh as can be. We also heartily enjoyed the marinara pizza, which seemed to be more than the sum of its parts. The sauce on each pizza was fresh and tomato-y and not overly sweet   Warning: there are many cloves of garlic on the Marinara pizza, so this is one for garlic lovers only.

DaMichele mariana and margherita pizzas

The main event.

It seemed only minutes had passed between when we ordered and when we finished, although we did our best to savor each pizza. Could you eat a better meal for 9€?  L enjoyed the doppia mozzarella pizza the best out of all of the pizzas in Naples, especially owing to the heavenly crust quality, and while M enjoyed the pizzas at Da Michele, his heart went with the more exotic toppings at Decumani. We are already nostalgic for all of the great pizza we enjoyed in Naples. For the pizza purist, we highly recommend Da Michele, but if you want a little more topping variety (and less chance of a line) Decumani is a formidable choice.

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November 19, 2012 · 8:10 PM

Pastry Post-Doc in Italy: Rum Baba – Babà from Naples

The Rum Babà is one of the iconic desserts of Naples. A Babà is a small yeast cake absolutely soaked in a Rum syrup. If made right, the cake should practically be swimming it it. So definitely not a treat for the faint of heart! Unlike Sfogliatelle, Babà are a French import (which was originally a riff off of babka cakes), and were transported to Naples by French chefs. Renowned chef Alain Ducasse even has a signature Rum Baba dessert (recipe here). But don’t tell a Neapolitan that! Even the most humble shop in Naples will have a little pile of these liquor-soaked brioche-esque goodies along with other cafe offerings. Typical Neapolitan Babà are shaped like popovers – and come in individual portions – though you can get fancy and make a Babà cake to serve many people. Babà are usually served plain, but as you can see below, you might also encounter mini or cream-filled varieties. For an even more Neapolitan experience – how about a Babà soaked in Limoncello?

Varieties of Rum Baba (and friends) in Naples

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November 12, 2012 · 2:20 PM

Italy: La Taverna dei Sapori – Mariella’s Brunch

La Taverna dei Sapori – aka Mariella’s
Corso Garibaldi,215
Monte di Procida (Naples), Italy

Sunday brunch is not a traditional occurrence in Italy since the typical Italian breakfast usually consists of coffee and a pastry (which is really our normal breakfast as well). However, a very smart proprietress, Mariella Fratelli (the restaurant is usually just known by patrons as “Mariella’s”), decided to capitalize on the brunch nostalgia of American expats and started a Sunday brunch of her own in the Naples area. She definitely has done something right: Mariella’s has gained a major following among expats hankering for brunch. However this is not a replica of an American bunch, but rather an Italian-style brunch! The brunch was all-you-can-eat for 12€, and we definitely got our money’s worth of Italian comfort foods.

We were the first to arrive, so we had the pick of the tables. Being a few days before Halloween  we were surprised and pleased to see the place decked out in orange and black. One thing we greatly enjoyed was that the food was all prepared in a normal fashion on plates, with new plates being constantly supplied. None of that steam-table business – which is good because we normally hate warmed-over brunch buffets. The spread was quite impressive with veggies, cakes, fritattas, and cheeses. There were no less than five fritattas on offer, with a variety of cheese, vegetable and meat fillings (and even a fritatta full of spaghetti). We gravitated instantly to the fresh mozzarella di bufala and the fresh ricotta.  We were also impressed by the large array of fresh roasted vegetables – including peppers and eggplant – not necessarily what you think of for brunch, but completely delicious and healthy.

We also appreciated the chocolate and fruit tarts on offer, including the chocolatey Torta Caprese. We remember eating a slice of Torta Caprese for breakfast everyday when we were in Siracusa. Perhaps not the most well-rounded breakfast, but oh so good! There were also a few nods to American tastes, with muffins, fruit yogurts and brownies.  For drinks, there was also a jug of fresh blood orange juice and cappuccinos were also on offer. As the brunch wore on, the place gradually became filled with Americans. We definitely enjoyed our little Italian brunch, and kudos to Mariella for hitting on a concept that works!

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November 9, 2012 · 1:03 PM

Pastry Post Doc: Torrone dei Morti in Naples

The arrival of torrone, the delicious honey and nougat confection, means the holiday season is coming in Spain and Italy. We have had torrone many times before, but we have never seen the kind of torrone we recently encountered in Naples, which was sold by the slice, covered in chocolate, and at first glance, even looked like ice cream cake. Turns out this is “Torrone dei Morti” or “Torrone morbido”- “dead torrone” which is a traditional All Saints’ Day dessert with a base of cocoa. Neapolitan pastry shops were filled with this version of torrone at the end of October, in any number of nut, chocolate and fruit varieties. Our favorite was the gianduja, or hazelnut and chocolate blend, as seen below. Getting a slice of torrone will run you less than 1€ a slice, so you have every incentive to try many varieties. When we were in Naples we didn’t realize that this version of torrone was season-specific, so we don’t know if it will be on display at other times of the year. We hope it is! We looked for a recipe in English – and we finally found one – but Google Translate can help you out with some of the Italian versions.

Cross-Section of Gianduja Torrone in Napoli

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November 8, 2012 · 1:17 PM

Naples Pizza Quest: I Decumani

Antica Pizzeria “I Decumani”
Via Tribunali 58
Naples, Italy

We came to Naples for its pizza, plain and simple. US places claiming authentic Neapolitan pizza are a dime a dozen, so we were extremely excited to try the real deal where it originated.  In America, Neapolitan pizza is usually a pretty fancy affair, with each pizza costing upwards of $18. However not so in Naples. Pizza is literally everywhere, and pizza even in the best spots will not run you more than 7€ (less than $10). Naturally, we did our research beforehand so we would only end up at the top locations.

Locals who know where to get a good pizza in Napoli.

One spot that kept pinging our radar was Decumani. Decumani is located on Via Tribunali, in the heart of historic Napoli. If you find yourself strolling down Tribunali, you really cannot go wrong: there are several famous pizzerias on this road, so after some initial indecision we decided to use our old rule of thumb: go to the crowded place. Arriving at 2 PM, usually a little late for the lunch crowd, the place was still hopping, and after a few minutes of awkward waiting in the corner, we were lucky enough to secure a seat. The menu is surprisingly extensive for a Neapolitan pizzeria: a wide variety of pizzas and fried appetizers, but we were floored by the prices. A classic Margherita pizza with basil and fresh mozzarella? 3.50€. Want to splurge and get some more adventurous toppings? It’s impossible to spend more than 7€ on a whole pie, with most pizzas under 5. The prices were so surprising to some, in fact, that one patron actually argued that his bill was – at 70€ for feeding his entire group of 10 people – too low. This is a very good problem to have.

Margherita Pizza. The best $5 you will ever spend.

We know what you’re thinking: so cheap, they must be small. Never mind that the high prices in the US come from the import taxes on importing your bufala and tomatoes from the shady side of Mount Vesuvius – the local places here save considerably by being able to practically walk the ingredients to the kitchen. No, these are not small pies, as you can see above. But they’re also not overpowering or too filling. The crust is thin but supportive, perfectly chewy while acting as a place for the blended marinara, bufala, and basil on top. The sauce is fresh and tastes like actual tomatoes: not to sweet, not too salty, and oh so good. The mozzarella is excellent, and as you can see generously applied. M, keeping up his love of cured pig meats and spicy food, decided to go for another classic pizza, the Diavola – essentially a margherita topped with spicy salame (4.50€.)

Close-up of the spicy cheese tomato-y goodness.

Together, L and M sat in I Decumani for about an hour, slowly savoring every bite of our pizzas. M very carefully paid special attention to his salame: cooked to perfection, it was the perfect complement (for him, anyway) to the margherita L was devouring across the table. All in all, for the unbelievable price of 11€, we were totally blown away by our Naples pizza experience. We’ll never be able to have Neapolitan pizza in the US again. But Chicago deep dish, we still love you!

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November 7, 2012 · 1:12 PM

Italy: Eating the food Markets and Shops of Bologna

Bologna’s nickname is “The Fat” and we certainly know why. Bologna is not only full of wonderful restaurants, but exceptional food markets and specialty shops, crowding on nearly every corner. We have truly never before seen such varied and high-quality food within such a small area. We only had a day in Bologna, but we definitely made the most of Bologna’s food in that single day – come join us on our tour.

After a highly successful meal at All’Osteria Bottega, we headed north into the center of town. We started our tour at the traditional green market, Mercato delle’erbe (Via Ugo Bassi, 23). This old-school market is housed in a historical covered market building, and is considered the local place to get fresh food. It is a little bit off the tourist track (and is closed around lunchtime), but it is worth seeking out. The array of foods and veggies available at this market are astounding: the freshest herbs, every variety of tomato, romanesco broccoli, and a wide array of Sicilian citrus. Along the perimeter of the market are meat and cheese shops ready to sell accouterments for your meal.

Mercato dell’Erbe

Next we headed to the area just off of the central historical square in Bologna, right outside of the Duomo. In places like Rome, you will want to give the food places near the touristic center a wide (and we mean WIDE) berth. However this is not so in Bologna, where amazing food is found literally in the shadow of the Duomo. Our first stop was Paolo Atti & Figli (Via Caprarie, 7) and our first food mission was Tortellini.

Paolo Atti & Figli

Tortellini, or their larger cousins, tortelli,  are little folded rings of pasta stuffed with meat or cheese. They are native to Bologna, where they are traditionally served in broth. After having divine tortelli at all’Osteria Bottega, we were of the mind to find some to bring home.  Fresh tortellini graced the storefronts in many food stores across Bologna- including Paolo Atti which immediately drew us in. Unfortunately, these fresh, handmade pasta morsels only had a couple days longevity. No preservatives here. Sadly this meant no tortellini could return with us to Lisbon.

Fresh tortelli for sale at Paolo Atti & Figli

However, we found a way to  take a taste of Bologna’s tortellini with us – chocolate tortellini! Chocolate tortellini held pride of place at the amazing food shop Drogheria Gilberto (Via Drapperie, 5). They came in three varieties – white, milk and dark chocolate – all of which are filled with a rich chocolate ganache. Though the prices may seem a little high, you definitely get what you pay for. We’re thinking we should have gotten a kilo more and have carefully been portioning out our remaining choco-tortellini.

Heavenly chocolate tortellini on display at Drogheria Gilberto

If you are looking for some ready-made food to make a quick meal, look no further than A. F. Tamburini (Via Caprarie 1), which had a full counter of lovely Bolognese specialties by the kilo. As you can see, along with prepared foods, there is also no shortage of meats and cheeses on offer. One great thing about Italian cheese stores is that they will vacuum seal any cheese for you. Our favorite kind of souvenir.

A. F. Tamburini

Throughout the day we had been comparing prices for cheese. We decided it was essential to get a block of DOP, 100% authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano, and we know Bologna would be our best chance (outside of Parma). When we happened upon Ceccarelli (Via Pescherie Vecchie, 8) we knew we had found our winner. They had a very friendly, helpful, and welcoming staff, along with an astounding array of cheeses (and prosciutto) at extremely reasonable prices. Also,  there was nary a tourist in sight.
This is a small sampling of the beautiful cheeses on offer at Ceccarelli. Soon enough we were on our way with a healthy wedge (1/2 kilo) of vacuum-sealed parmigiano-reggiano.
We continued our Bologna food walk right outside the doors of Ceccarelli. In the tiny old streets and back alleys along Via Drapperie, Via Pescherie Vecchie and environs, were tons of open-air greengrocers, fishmongers and countless others under canvas awnings. Despite the rain it was fun to walk along these old market streets where it seems nothing has changed for hundred of years.
We definitely fell in love with the sumptuous food of Bologna, “The Fat” and we only wish we had more time to explore the labyrinthine food wonders of this medieval city. We know we will be back someday. As final proof that Bologna takes its food seriously, check out this food stall in the Bologna airport, sending travelers off with some delicious memories.

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November 6, 2012 · 4:07 PM

Pastry Post-Doc: Classic Neapolitan Sfogliatelle

The impossibly flaky Sfogliatelle pastry is ubiquitous in Naples, and a cappuccino and a sfogliatelle quickly became my typical breakfast in Naples. Sfogliatelle is a shell-shaped fried pastry characterized by its many flaky layers (“Sfogliatelle” means many leaves or layers). A typical filling is a cream made from ricotta, semolina, eggs and citrus. While in Naples, I managed to sample ricotta versions as well as a ricotta/almond hybrid, and one with a filling of only preserved oranges. Sfogliatelle are rumored to have originated in a convent on the Amalfi coast, and later traveled to Naples. Unlike some other Italian pastries, sfogliatelle have not made their way into Chicago bakeries the way cannolis or rum baba have. However, a cousin of the sfogliatelle, the “lobster tail,” is popular in New York City Italian-American bakeries, where the ricotta filling is substituted for whipped cream.

I also especially appreciate sfogliatelle because I know there is no way I could try to make them on my own. Perhaps this is why I never got the pricey cupcake trend: anyone can make a cupcake, but certainly not everyone could make a sfogliatelle. So for my 1€ I will take sfogliatelle anytime. Due to the labor-intensive nature of making the dough layers, I am very impressed by those who attempt it on their own.  For now though, I think I will stick to seeking it out in one of Chicago’s Italian Bakeries – Palermo Bakery lists it as a specialty, LTH forum discusses other Chicago bakeries with sfogliatelle on offer.

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November 4, 2012 · 6:01 PM

Italy: Pasta Greatness at All’Osteria Bottega

All’Osteria Bottega
51 Via Santa Caterina
Bologna, Italy

If there is an item that should be on an Italian food lover’s bucket list, it should be eating bolognese sauce in Bologna. Delicately cured bits of meat rounded together in an exquisitely, simply complex sauce, Bolognese (or just ragu, as the locals would call it) symbolizes everything that we love about Italian cooking: high quality, lovingly-prepared ingredients that, when treated well, speak for themselves. Such is the case at All’Osteria Bottega, a tiny restaurant outside of Bologna’s historic center where we went to check that elusive item off M’s bucket list, and sample some other winning dishes in the process.

If you are lucky enough to get one of the 20 seats in All’Osteria Bottega’s tiny seating room, you’ll be greeted by one of the pleasant waitstaff or the delightfully gregarious owner, who will fly between you and the other patrons while engaging in lively chat the whole time. If only we spoke Italian! We could have made a new culinary friend. Not that we aren’t up for making friends with the other inanimate objects in the place: legs of prosciutto, salame, mortadella, cheeses galore, and the giant red meat slicer that dominates the back counter. We wanted to take it home, along with a prosciutto leg or two.

Italians always seem to know how to enjoy a meal. The dress classy for food outings, and they make long affairs of it, ordering plate after plate of prosciutto, cheese, pasta, a main course, wine, dessert, and a coffee. But, unfortunately, we were on a flight layover and in a time crunch: still in our t-shirts and polos (under dressed by Italian standards), we stuck to our main goal: the pasta. M ordered the tagliatelle with bolognese ragu, and L ordered the surprise winner of the evening: tortelli, stuffed with ricotta cheese and served in a light sage cream sauce.

Tagliatelle with ragu bolognese, topped with parmiggiano-reggiano.

This, right here, could have been made by the world’s greatest grandmother, out of the pot she had been using since the ill-fated Mussolini administration. And maybe it was. The mistake so many people make with bolognese ragu is that they make it into too much of a sauce – it slathers over the pasta, dominating it, and the flavors in the meat get bogged down in oil that simply isn’t needed. At Bottega, there is no oil, no liquid in this sauce. Just a series of different meat cuts, ground down to perfection and served delicately integrated into the tagliatelle. You can taste each and every morsel of flavor, all the different textures that went into the ragu, and it just lets you savor each bite that much more. Yet while the sauce was brilliant, the pasta was actually a bit of a disappointment: maybe a thirty seconds or so undercooked, a little less al dente would have made all the difference and really let the sauce (in addition to the parmigiano-reggiano, grated in person!) absolutely shine.

Ricotta tortelli in a sage cream sauce

The same mild criticism of the pasta could not be said for L’s dish, tortelli stuffed with ricotta and served in sage cream sauce. “Little clouds of angelic cheesy goodness” she calls them. Ricotta can come out, especially in tortelli, far too grainy – a product of poor cooking techniques or not using fresh cheese. Not the case here: the oh-so smooth tortelli were stuffed with a ricotta that was extremely smooth; lighter and fluffier than any other ricotta cheese filling she had ever tasted. The sage cream sauce was a perfect complement, providing just the right flavor contrast and letting the great ricotta and its texture steal the show.

A brilliant meal complete for only 30 euro, and then it was off to the center of Bologna to explore an area of food stores founded nearly one thousand years ago that many consider Italy’s best.

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October 26, 2012 · 1:22 PM

Buongiorno, Napoli

Buona Sera, Portugal – Buongiorno, Napoli! The eaters are headed to Naples for a little trip this weekend, along with day trips (really just very long layovers…) to Venice and Bologna. We are excited to continue our foodie adventure in Italy, and Naples seems like a real foodie haven.  L is looking forward to street food and Sfogliatelle in Naples, and we are both excited to sample as much pizza in Naples as humanly possible. Aside from pizza, M is most excited to eat Bolognese sauce in Bologna (it may even be a bucket list item). We’ll return next week with a report of our Italian food adventures.

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June 22, 2012 · 1:13 PM

Our first – and last – visit to Testaccio Market

We absolutely love Italian markets. From Philadelphia to Siracusa to Rome, there is nothing better than the hustle and bustle of purchasing fresh produce, fish, bread, olive oil, prosciutto, and cheese from knowledgeable folks who have been doing it for years and years. As such, we were a little disappointed when we went to Campo di Fiori market in Rome and found it overrun with stands catering mainly to tourists seeking weird dried spice mixes (“Taco Spice”, “Aphrodisiac Romance Spice,””Pasta Spice” etc.). Not exactly what we wanted.

Yet relief awaits. Just cross the Tiber river, to the Testaccio neighborhood. It’s full of old buildings and quaint cafes, along with beautiful churches tucked into hidden courtyards.  Testaccio is also home to one of M’s favorite Roman sites – the Pyramid of Cestius – as well as the nearly 100 year-old Testaccio Market.

Right away we could tell that this place wasn’t designed for tourists. The Testaccio market was the real deal. It makes its home in a partially enclosed structure with huge glass skylights, containing vendors selling any kind of delicious item, from meat to bread to veggies. The market was crowded, even at the afternoon hour, and was full of locals chatting and haggling. We spotted tourists, too, but the market certainly wasn’t geared to tourist tastes. One of our favorite stalls was dedicated completely to tomatoes – manned by a kind Sicilian woman who let us sample a few of tomatoes (you can find a few of the varieties below). We also ended up buying arugula, bread, cheese, and some prosciutto all to make a little picnic in the Borghese Gardens.

Sadly, we recently learned that Testaccio Market will only live in its current state until the end of the month. Parla Food give a particularly bleak outlook for the market’s future: moved to a new building, the new market is ugly, built on a parking garage, and worst of all, will charge nearly double for vendor space. Seasoned vendors will probably close up shop instead of pass the expense onto their regular customers, meaning the market could soon morph into another tourist trap like Campo de Fiori. Sounds like a lose-lose situation. Really, since when are Romans known to visit the marketplace by car? Much like the Maxwell St. Market in Chicago, we are sure something will be lost in the move. RIP Testaccio Market.

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March 18, 2012 · 10:42 PM

Pasta di San Giuseppe – St. Joseph’s Day Pasta

Giuseppe

St. Joseph’s Day Pasta – by Erin Zieske

March 19th is St. Joseph’s Day, a holiday celebrated in Southern Italy, or in communities of southern Italian Immigrants. Naturally, having the proper food is a huge part of St. Joseph’s Day, with many churches even constructing elaborate St. Joseph’s Day altars full of food. We’ve written previously on the most famous St. Joseph’s Day food – the fried sweet Zeppole – so this year we wanted to introduce another holiday dish – Pasta di San Guiseppe. There are many variations on the recipes – but at its core it is a dish of pasta and breadcrumbs. The pasta dishes made on this day are typically meatless to represent the famines experienced in Sicily. The breadcrumbs represent sawdust, which is symbolic of the profession of St. Joseph, carpentry. Another popular dish for St. Joseph’s Day is Pasta con Sarde (Pasta con Sardi in Sicilian)  – pasta with Sardines [another version here].

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November 29, 2011 · 7:03 AM

Becoming European: Bialetti Espresso

The eaters are in Portugal for a month for research purposes and have rented an apartment. In our apartment there is a Bialetti Moka espresso maker. While we have long been familiar with this iconic little device, we had never used one. At home only L is a coffee drinker, so she set out right away to figure out how to make a cup. The official directions are on the Bialetti site, as well as many other step-by-step versions on blogs, easily enough. The whole process involved a set of unfamiliar tasks like grinding coffee to a just-above-espresso grind (?) and lighting an old gas stove (!), but after a little effort, a cup of espresso finally emerged. The espresso was definitely thicker and stronger than the kind from our Chemex pour-over at home, as it should be, and definitely tasted more like the cafe coffee in Lisbon.  With familiar coffee tools thousands of miles away we are thankful for the Bialetti.

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October 24, 2011 · 9:41 PM

Pizza by the Slice in Rome: Pizzarium

Pizzarium
Via della Meloria, 43
Rome, Italia

So one of the things we were most looking forward to in Italy was getting some good pizza (cliché we know). When scanning through the blogosphere for delicious places to eat on the cheap in Rome, we came across many glowing reviews of Pizzarium, so when knew we absolutely had to get there. Pizzarium is helmed by Gabriele Bonci, who is known for his bread and pizza know-how (and who was recently featured in the Atlantic). Pizzarium itself is a tiny, bright store, with nothing in the way of seating or much counter space (we ended up eating our pizza on the curb). However, this tight space is only a minor inconvenience.

When we arrived at the tiny Pizzarium we were stunned by the sheer variety crammed into a single tiny glass counter. On that day, there were about 15 varieties of pizza to choose from. Instead of getting pizza by the slice in the way Americans conceive of it, at Pizzarium they serve Pizza al taglio which refers to large, rectangular pizzas that are literally cut with shears/scissors and sold by the kilogram.

We tried 3 varieties of pizza: a classical Margherita Pizza (see above), Potato and Ricotta, and spicy Red Pepper Basil. For four slices we spent roughly 15 Euros – which is a pretty good deal for Rome. The crust was phenomenal, and really set the pizza apart from any we had previously. The crust, while not as thick as Sicilian sfincione (more on that later), had a nice thick crust like foccacia bread. We also appreciated the inventive flavor combos and the amazingly fresh ingredients. Pizzarium was the best pizza we sampled in Italy, and is a must do for anyone after (or before) a trip to the Vatican.

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October 20, 2011 · 7:30 PM

The best gelato in Rome: Giolitti

Giolitti
Via degli Uffici del Vicario, 40
Rome, Italy

Who knew that something that only cost 2.50 Euros could be so wonderful. We had our fair share of gelato in Sicily, but nothing could compare to the amazing gelato we got at Giolitti in Rome.  Tourists and locals alike fill this place every morning until 1:30 AM, and probably have since its opening in 1900. It became a Roman ritual of ours to get a scoop (or 3) of Giolitti and walk over to the Pantheon, which was a few mere blocks away. Though both of these places were constantly packed to the brim, we never seemed to mind.

The ordering process at Giolitti is a little bit different than most shops. You pay at the front cashier and get a receipt with your order. You then take your ticket to the ice cream counter and elbow your way to the front. You tell the scooper what flavors you want – and fast! No time for pondering!

The only ‘problem’ is choosing between a dizzying array of flavors of ice creams and sorbets. There are common flavors like chocolate, hazelnut and strawberry, but also other more esoteric offerings like Indian Fig, Baba al Rhum and Champagne. The chocolate fondente flavor was the darkest richest chocolate gelato we had ever tasted, so we were pretty much hooked from first bite. But since there were 3 flavors per scoop we felt we had to try a few of the myriad options.  Here are the optimal flavor combinations we arrived upon after days of deliberation:

  • L: Chocolate fondente, Oreo & Raspberry
  • M: Chocolate fondente, Oreo & Coconut


If you wanted any evidence of the gluttony present, this is an example of a single scoop. Yes, a single scoop at Giolitti is in fact a triple scoop with a huge dollop of whipped cream on the top. Heaven! We will never forget our daily trip to Giolitti, and we would be hard pressed to find a better gelato anywhere.

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October 19, 2011 · 11:04 PM

Finer things Club: A Tavola

A Tavola
2148 w. Chicago Ave.
Chicago IL, 60622

A Tavola is quite a lovely little restaurant. It is perfect for a date night out with your special someone, but despite the ambiance or any other fine menu offerings, there is only one reason – one very important reason – to go to A Tavola – the gnocchi! This remains our gold standard of gnocchi, even after going to Italy (where we coincidentally had terrible gnocchi 😦 ). The A Tavola gnocchi are impossibly light and pillowy, so much so that one serving is hardly enough. They come served with a sage and brown butter sauce, definitely a classic preparation that compliment the gnocchi well. The sauce is quite good on its own as well, and we found ourselves scraping up the remainder with pieces of bread. What are the secret behind these gnocchi? We don’t know, but they certain put most of the other leaden gnocchi we have sampled to shame.

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February 18, 2011 · 2:08 PM

A Quick Bite for Pizza at La Madia

ItalyWe stopped into La Madia (59 W. Grand Ave., Chicago, IL), a casual-chic pizza spot for a quick lunch in the midst of some museum hopping. The restaurant itself is clean and modern with casual striped booths as well as an extensive bar, that seems to be hopping at most any hour. It seems like the perfect place to catch a soccer match or a business lunch. The specialty of the house is wood fired Neapolitan-style pizza, so naturally we thought that would be the perfect lunch. L got the wild mushroom and mozzarella pizza and M ordered lamb sausage pizza ($11). The signature thin crust was crisp, but not hard, and held up well to the toppings. The sausage was delicious – it is cured with fennel and actually made in-house. The mushrooms on L’s pizza were abalone mushrooms and perfectly complemented the delicate mozzarella. Many people seemed to also be enjoying the extensive wine list – each pizza even comes with a suggested wine pairing. The verdict: Good thin-crust pizza in a good location.

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