Tag Archives: Mexico

The Ultimate Carnitas in Pilsen: Carnitas Uruapan

Carnitas Uruapan
1725 W 18th St
Chicago, IL

Here at ETW, we have noticed a couple of trends in our many years of restaurant-going. Food value in relation to quality goes up when owners and employees are primarily speaking a language other than English. Smaller places are better – street places are the best. And the fewer items on a menu, the tastier those items will be. So, if you have a small place with one menu item where nobody is speaking English, you will probably have a great time. Such is the case at Carnitas Uruapan, a small, unsuspecting establishment in Chicago’s predominantly Mexican neighborhood of Pilsen, that serves up only one menu item – carnitas – and serves it very well.

The protocol: after walking in, the man behind the counter will greet you in Spanish. Greet him back, and ask for a number of libras (pounds) or carnitas, either mixta (mixed with skin and ears) or not. Say thanks, grab a table, and in a few minutes a large plate of carnitas will appear in front of you. Your server will also bring you a few small Mexican staple extras: the necessary complement of corn tortillas, pickled jalapenos and carrots, as well as two salsas: a thinner one with tomatoes and cilantro, and a much spicier, thicker version. After that, the combinations are up to you. We tended to be big fans of throwing everything together in a tortilla and scarfing it down, but then again, the carnitas are wonderful, juicy, and flavorful just on their own. The single pound we ordered turned out to be too much for both of us, so we had some for lunch the next day. Total bill for this feast? $10.

Just as well, the food is accentuated by two factors: the quick, efficient, no-nonsense service (always a plus in our eyes), and the absolutely fantastic pig murals and assorted decorations all around the restaurant.

On a final note, we are yet to be disappointed in Pilsen, either in terms of cultural institutions or eating establishments. Add Carnitas Uruapan to the ever-growing list of must-tries.

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Best Places to get Empanadas in Chicago

Chicago Magazine has a feature about the best places to get empanadas in Chicago. Offerings from Mexico, Argentina and Brazil all make an appearance.

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Mexico: Xoco

Mexico Flag Xoco
449 N Clark St
Chicago, IL

The buzz around Rick Bayless’ new quick service Mexican restaurant, Xoco (located right next two his other two creations, Topolobampo and Frontera Grill) has been almost deafening – so we knew we had to check it out. Unquestionably, a good portion of that buzz comes from his recent victory on Top Chef Masters (we called it!), but even with such great anticipation, Bayless has a lot to live up to. Xoco does not take reservations – quick service only – so when we found ourselves in the loop for a conference on a rainy October night, it was the perfect opportunity (so we thought) hoping that the freezing rain would wash out the crowds. No such luck though: at 9 PM on Friday there was a line out the door. Not that the wait was particularly long, and even if it were, the extensive menu gives the thoughtful diner a lot to mull over. Caldos, tortas, empanadas, six varieties of chocolate – we had a tough time deciding.

XocoInterThe cold night made the hot chocolate a logical choice, as did the restaurant’s Nahuatl name. We had heard that the house-made hot chocolate was excellent, so we sampled 2 varieties. The servers came out with a little carafe of chocolate and pour it right for you (though we wish they would let us keep the carafe at the table!). We opted for the thick and creamy Barcelona, and the spicy Aztec. Ironically, a blend of both would have been perfect: the Barcelona was thick and creamy, but lacking the spicy punch of the Aztec; while the Aztec needed a thicker blend like the Barcelona. Not that either one was disappointing – both were excellent – but next time we will stage a reconquista and mix the two.

XocoChocoEntrees were a tougher choice. After a lot of debate, M settled on a caldo: the “Wood-Roasted Chicken Pozole,” ($11.50) while L got the Cochinita Pibil sandwich ($12.00). We had high expectations for the caldo, but at the end of the day was slightly underwhelming: the red chiles meant to flavor the dish never found a way to fully integrate their flavor into the broth, and the resulting mix seemed slightly disjointed. The added lime juice helped, but the potential marriage of strong flavors had a tendency to seem more like a shouting match without a moderator than Bayless’ usual seamless flavor marriages. L’s sandwich was much better. The simple ingredients packed big flavors. The perfectly spiced shredded pork was melt-in-your-mouth; garnished with pickled onions on top and Xoco’s delectable habanero salsa, all on a crusty bolillo roll:  the sandwich was a masterpiece.

XocoSandOverall, we’ll declare our experience at Xoco great – and as two poor students, we certainly appreciated the lower price point. Rick Bayless himself is often in the open kitchen, especially mornings, and takes great care to use local, fresh ingredients, something we definitely tasted and appreciated.

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Feliz Dia De Los Muertos

sugarskulls

Sugar Skulls for Sale in San Francisco by Digiyesica

Feliz Dia De Los Muertos! Today is the 2nd day of the Day of the Dead celebrations, which gastronomically means a proliferation of pan de muerto and sugar skulls.

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Mexico: A Quick Bite at Byby’s

ByBy’s
142 W Washington St
West Chicago, IL

We are always in search for great little hole in the wall restaurants, so we were really happy when we heard about good Mexican regional food in West Chicago, a far western suburb of Chicago. Byby’s focuses on food from Oaxaca. The menu focuses on regional specialties like tlacoyos, huraches, atole, etc.

Byby’s a tiny – not much more than a storefront on a quiet stretch of main street in West Chicago. In the whole place there were probably only about four tables. L ordered the Blue Corn Tlacoyo with nopal and M went for the Huitelacoche quesdilla. The tlacoyo is like a thick corn tortilla and matched perfectly well with the toothsome nopal and quessadilla cheese. M was overjoyed to find huitelacoche, a mushroom-style fungus that grows on corn (trust us, sounds gross, but is delicious). Both items clocked in at less than 5 dollars. If you’re in West Chicago, it’s definitely worth a trip!

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A new place for Rick Bayless: Xoco

Mexico FlagMaster of Mexican food, Rick Bayless is opening a quick-service takeout place, Xoco, on the near north side, adjacent to his other restaurants. According to Bayless’ blog, xoco is slang for “little sister.” The spot is going to feature Mexico-city-style street food. Given that it’s a takeout place – we’re figuring it’ll be more in our price point than stalwarts Topolobampo and Frontera Grill. Tasting Table has an awesome preview of Xoco, with a preview of the menu – including churros made with Oaxacan chocolate and barbacoa tortas. Natural Home Magazine has an interview that highlights the sustainability of the new resto. Opening is slated for the last week in August, according to Bayless’  Twitter.

[Update August 25] We have a confirmed opening date – September 8th.
[Update August 28] We even have a menu, from Thrillist.

Xoco
449 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL

Also, here’s an Oldie but a goodie – Rick Bayless eats his way across Pilsen – from Time Out Chicago.

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¡Feliz Cinco de Mayo!

Mexico FlagCinco de Mayo is actually more widely celebrated in the US than in Mexico, where it is primarily a holiday in the state of Puebla. The Cinco de Mayo holiday celebrates the defeat of the French army by the Mexican army in the Battle of Puebla, on May 5, 1862. So while most Cinco de Mayo restaurant specials in the area involve Margaritas, we decided to put up some tasty Poblano foods.

The New York Times called Puebla the “Lyon of Mexico” – known internationally for its fine cuisine. We certainly can’t argue with that, since Puebla has given us some of our favorite dishes like mole poblano. Mole Poblano is usually what people think of when they hear ‘mole’ in the US – the complex spicy sauce made from dried peppers with a hint of chocolate. Chiles en nogada is another archetypal Poblano dish. It’s particularly festive  – especially since it is red (pomegranate), green (poblano pepper) and white (walnut sauce), the colors of the Mexican Flag. Elise at Simply recipes has a recipe for this photogenic dish. Epicurious has a few more delicious recipes including a tasty-sounding chicken and potato stew.

If you’ve got a hankering for Poblano cuisine and you don’t feel like staying in, you could also head out to Cemitas Puebla (3619 W. North Avenue) for some of the best cemitas (Poblano sandwiches on eggy bread) in Chicago!

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Delicious Mexican food in the suburbs: Bien Trucha

Bien Truchail00010
410 W. State St.
Geneva, IL

If this is not the tiniest restaurant in Chicagoland, we would like to know what is. Occupying a small storefront originally inhabited by a nail salon, Bien Trucha (“Good Trout”) has five small tables with a maximum seating capacity of no more than 15; a reviewer on Serious Eats says it has “the square footage of a Volkswagen Jetta.” Yet all the food in this tiny place comes at you with an amazing amount of flavor and creativity, making it into one of the blogosphere’s new favorite Mexican restaurants. Obviously, we had to go. What we found was a tiny restaurant with a great knack for doing simple ingredients and flavors amazingly well.

cevicheWe started with a pair of appetizers: Mexican-style ceviche ($7.95) and Poblano chile soup with potato cubes and queso fresco ($3.95). M is not normally a fan of Mexican ceviche (he goes for Peruvian when he can) but found this better than most others he has tried: the tomatoes, fresh fish, cilantro, lime juice, and avocado were served in a more generous portion than is typically found, and the extra juice from the limes and tomatoes kept the entire mixture very well-balanced, both in flavors and texture. Likewise, the Poblano chile soup was a treat, and managed to be both creamy and light. Straight, simple, and to the point – a great prelude to the rest of our meal, and an excellent warm, smooth appetizer to pair with the ceviche.

But Bien Trucha’s tacos are their specialty. We tried three varieties, all on flour tortillas: Camarón Tacos (grilled spiced shrimp with an avocado slice, tacos-pescado$9.95;); Bien Trucha Tacos (grilled skirt steak, chorizo, manchego cheese and tomatillo-serrano salsa, $8.95) and Tacos de Pescado (battered fried tilapia, cabbage, onion, lime and chipotle aoili, $8.95). Each variety was nearly perfect. Served in groups of four on a simple wooden board, their presentation is a perfect complement to Bien Trucha’s style. What really stood out to us was how fresh everything was – even the fish tacos were great all this way inland. While we don’t know if these tacos are worth a 2 hour drive, if you are anywhere near the West suburbs, they’re worth the trip.

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Friday Foodie Link: A New Molcajete

molcpig

It was L’s birthday this week, and as one of her presents, M got her a molcajete. Isn’t it cute? A Molcajete is a traditional Mexican kitchen implement made from volcanic rock. So they’re pretty much awesome volcanic mortar and pestles used for making a variety of salsas and moles. They often come with animal faces, and the volcanic rock is said to impart some mysteriously delicious extra flavor into any sauce made in the molcajete.

But this was not just any model, apparently this molcajete has even been vetted by Rick Bayless himself, who praised its smooth surface. We were excited to try our molcajete out – but before using it we had to season it. To accomplish this, we first rinsed it thoroughly, ground dried rice into it, and finally pulverized a mixture of garlic, sea salt and cumin seeds. Now the molcajete is ready for business, and it will only improve with age. Look for some recipes soon.

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Recipe Friday: Xnipec

M has been on a spicy pepper kick recently, so we decided to find an outlet for the habanero peppers he acquired last week. After some online sleuthing, we found the perfect low-stress recipe: Xnipec (prounced shnee-peck) is a spicy tomato-habanero salsa originating from the Yucatan. Given the mild flavors of most cuisine from the region, one may be surprised at how popular the incredibly spicy habanero pepper is there. But the habanero gives more than just heat – it has a nice citrus, sweet, tropical flavor that goes great with chicken, fish, steak, salsas, or most anything else. This recipe takes the much recommended caution of delicately removing the habanero seed pods and interior white vein to remove most of the heat. For spicier salsa, use greener, less-ripened habaneros. Fully ripened orange ones are fruitier, but more mild. Here’s the recipe, courtesy of the culinary wizardry of Rick Bayless:

Ingredients (Makes 2 cups):
1 small red onion
2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lime juice
10 ounces ripe tomatoes
6 radishes
1/2 whole habanero chile – or more (we used 1 whole)
12 large fresh cilantro sprigs
1/2 teaspoon salt

Chop the onion very finely, using a knife (don’t use a food processor), and scoop it into a strainer; rinse under cold water. Shake as much of the water off as possible, then transfer to a small bowl and stir in the juice. Set aside.

Core the tomatoes, then cut in half crosswise; squeeze out the seeds. Finely dice the tomatoes (about 1/4 inch cubes). Scoop into a bowl.

Slice the radishes 1/16-inch thick, then chop into matchsticks or small dice. Add to the tomatoes.

Punt on a pair of rubber gloves. Carefully cut out and discard the habanero’s seed pod, then mince the flesh into tiny bits and add to the tomatoes.

Bunch up the cilantro sprigs, and, with a very sharp knife, slice them 1/16-inch thick, stems and all, working from the leafy end toward the stems.

Combine radishes, chile, and chopped cilantro with the tomato mixture; stir in the onion and juice mixture. Taste and season with salt.

Xnipec salsaThe Eaters used both red and yellow tomatoes, and bumped up the amount of habanero. Don’t be nervous about doing that – with a discarded seed pod and vein, habaneros have just the right amount of spice to let their tropical flavors shine through. Our main concern with this dish was the amount of onions, but rinsing them under water for a minute or so takes off most of the onion flavor and allows them to absorb the  habanero, cilantro, and lime juice. Same with the radishes.

All in all, we thought this was great. It is quick, cheap, easy, comes out very colorful and fresh, and goes great with just about anything. We originally ate it alone as a salsa with some tortillas, and used another batch over grilled chile-rubbed chicken on a bed of rice. Great there too. We will definitely be making more of it.

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Mexico: Adobo Grill

Mexico FlagAdobo Grill
1610 N. Wells
Chicago, IL

We had an 8 o’clock show at Second City with M and his family, so we needed to find someplace close and crowd-pleasing for dinner. We settled on Adobo Grill, which is conveniently located right next door to the theater on Wells. The restaurant was lively when we arrived, with warm yellow walls and crowds of theatergoers getting a bite to eat of a drink at the bar. Adobo’s menu consists of some upscale takes on traditional Mexican food – tamales, sopes, enchiladas, etc. They are also known for their extensive tequila and drink selection.adobosetting

M was pleased to see a rather esoteric ingredient on the menu, like huitlacoche, a specific type of corn fungus prized for its taste (sounds gross, but in reality tastes kind of mushroom-y). Intrigued, we ordered a huitlacoche quesadilla appetizer ($8.50). The quesadilla came stuffed with corn, cheese and ancho salsa, along with the huitlacoche. M said the taste of the huitlacoche itself was very mellow, an much milder than the type he remembers having in Mexico City. We also ordered Adobo Grill’s famous guacamole tableside. They even have a little cart set up with the ingredients all ready for the “Guacamole Lady” who expertly prepares the guac to order in molcajetes (sadly, plastic instead of stone) for each table. Despite the inauthentic molcajetes, the guac was good – we ordered two batches – spicy and mild ($7.99)

adoboguac

For entrees, I (L) ordered the chicken enchiladas with mole rojo ($14.99), but I substituted Oaxacan black mole sauce instead. The enchiladas came topped with sour cream, añejo cheese, onions; black beans. However, the mole was the star of the show, with perfect notes of sweet and savory. Unfortunately there was one major problem with the entree- the chicken. Honestly, an enchilada can hide a lot when it comes to the quality of the chicken. It seemed like they just took the whole bird, bones and all, and chopped it up to throw in the tortilla – not acceptable. I spent a lot of time simply picking out bone and cartilage chunks, which for $15, isn’t a welcome task. M fared better with his pollo al tamarindo ($15.99) – a grilled half chicken in tamarind-chipotle glaze. The chicken was tender, and the tamarind sauce was pretty sweet, but offset by the smoky chipotle kick.

adoboenchi

To finish we ordered a chocolate flan ($5.99) and churros ($5.99) to share among the table. M and I were reminded again that we are not particularly fans of flan – as it is a bit too gelatinous for us. We know – that’s the appeal of flan – so we assume Adobo Grill’s rendition was perfectly fine. The churros were pretty basic (you cant mess up a churro) – but the chocolate sauce made the dessert and was perfect for dipping. Adobo Grill has to be used to theater patrons on tight schedules, because our meal went like clockwork, with plenty of time to spare before the show. Despite this, we still feel that Adobo Grill is good, not great, especially for the price point. We hear that a popular plan is to just order the guac and some drinks, which may be the route we go in the future.

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Friday Foodie Link: Mole Mania

Chicago Life magazine has a nice feature on Mole, and locations around Chicago with their special takes on the iconic sauce. “Mole” simply means “sauce” but is commonly used to describe a particular subset of sauces known as ”mole poblano”, that contain chocolate, dried chili peppers, ground nuts and a myriad of other spices.

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Mexico: Taquería El Milagro

Taquería El Milagro
1923 S Blue Island Ave
Chicago, IL

It’s an annual tradition for the Eaters to spend a day in December wandering around Chicago’s Pilsen district. We stop by the National Museum of Mexican Art to catch their annual Día de los Muertos exhibit, do some Christmas shopping at the museum’s Mercado Navideño (Christmas Market), and then have an afternoon meal at one of Pilsen’s great Mexican restaurants. For the past few years, this has meant ordering the mole enchiladas (for L) and the fajitas (for M) at Restaurante Nuevo León (1515 W. 18th Street). But this year we decided to try something new, so we walked an extra few blocks to Taquería El Milagro.

MilagroInterior

El Milagro’s relatively unadorned exterior wouldn’t be very noticeable from the street – if it weren’t bright magenta/pink, that is. The interior is inviting – Spanish colonial tiles adorn the walls around the entrance, and large Mexican paintings hang from the other walls. But this is by no means a fancy restaurant – the cafeteria-style setup is quick and simple. You wait in line, order your food, pick a seat, and a few minutes later it is brought out to you. It being a cold day, L and I took the opportunity to each try a champurrado, ($1.75) a Mexican hot chocolate drink, thickened with cornmeal and with cinnamon and other spices. If you are thirsty, this is not the drink to try – think of it more as a liquid dessert. Perfect for a cold day, though. Champurrados are normally served with churros, and while I didn’t order any, I really should have bought some from the man who came in the restaurant to sell them.

We had anticipated finishing our warm drinks by the time the food arrived, but no such luck. Both L and I had ordered chicken burritos ($4.95), which to our shock were entirely made to order. Neither of us care much for refried beans, but we decided to go with it because asking for our burritos sin frijoles just seemed like such a gringo thing to do. Otherwise, there were no other order options. No qualifications for what toppings or sides we wanted, no tortilla specifications, nothing. Just straight chicken burritos – and they took care of the rest.BurritoMilagro

We can use this to contrast with Chipotle, the fast-food joint that bills itself as Mexican. When you order a chicken burrito at Chipotle, the chicken is sliced into little cubes that get put inside a watery, thin flour tortilla, all for $7. They ask you each and every ingredient you want, holding up the line and using all the questions to overcharge you for prepping. Not so at El Milagro – when we ordered chicken, two fresh raw chicken breasts were plopped down on the grill, just for us. When the burritos came, they had lettuce, rice, two halves of a tomato slice, and some cheese all bean-sealed inside a thick, warm, grilled flour tortilla. Five bucks. And so very excellent – you could tell all the ingredients were fresh and filling without being unhealthy. L and I had purposefully not eaten all day in anticipation of our meal, but suffice to say between the champurrados and the burritos, we both had a hard time finishing.

We were so hungry in fact that we neglected to take our usual context photo. Instead we present the remains of our burritos, after I remembered we had forgotten to record them for our readers. This is a fairly common problem for the eaters – accordingly we have no photos of Jim’s cheeseteaks or any of our breakfasts in Puerto Rico. Overall impression? Take Chipotle – subtract the lines, the fat, the questions; add fresher ingredients, better prices, and more food – and you get El Milagro. Also, if you’re jonesing for some more tortillas, the El Milagro Tortilleria is right next door! We’ll be back.

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[Road Trip Eats] Mexico: Tulum

Tulum
17 W. Morton St.
Bethlehem, PA

We were jonesing for some cheap but tasty eats in Bethlehem, PA on a hectic weeknight, so we scoured the web for suggestions. We heard Tulum was a local favorite for casual Mexican food, so we decided it was worth a shot. Tulum (self-proclaimed “Beth-Mex”) is located on the campus of Lehigh, and is obviously a student hangout (though class wasn’t yet in session). The storefront was unassuming with a counter on one wall and a few rickety tables on the other. It being a nice day outside – several other tables were enjoying dinner on the patio out back.

The menu at Tulum consists of TexMex favorites like burritos, chips and guacamole, quesadillas, and the speciality of the house – various styles of burritos in ‘regular’ and ‘mini’ sizes. The burritos came on a flour tortilla and were filled with rice, cheese and a house-made crema (mixed with lime and poblano peppers) and fresh, mild pico de gallo. M opted for a Chicken Verde Burrito ($6.84) with medium green tomatillo salsa. L picked the Chicken Mole Minirrito ($5.35), which was more than filling enough. Tulum turned out a delicious rich mole, though the burrito could have used a bit more of the delicious sauce itself.

We were impressed by the quality and freshness of the burritos, which were certainly many cuts above Chipotle-style chains. Another fun surprise was that next to the counter there was an assortment of homemade sauces in Corona bottles. Our favorites were the sweet but super-spicy Mango/Habanero sauce and the smoky Chipotle sauce. Though its unlikely we will ever find ourselves back in Bethlehem, we’ll now know where to get a good burrito.

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Mexico Trip: Moles

L and I love moles. A Spanish corruption of a Nahua word meaning simply “sauce,” today moles span varieties as diverse as guacamole (avocado sauce), chocolate moles (great on enchiladas) and a number of other varieties less common in the United States, but still popular and widespread in Mexico. My trip gave me a chance to sample a couple of mole dishes, as well as learn a little about the sauces and their relation to Mexican culture in general.

Cafe El Popular Restaurante
Avenida Cinco de Mayo 52
México, D.F., México

While in the historic center of Mexico City, I wandered into Cafe El Popular looking for a relatively quick and cheap lunch that would still give me a chance to have some solid Mexican cooking. El Popular looked like just such a place, packed to the brim with local patrons inside a large diner that seemed more out of the 1950s than Mexico’s modern megalopolis. When I arrived around noon, the menu still leaned toward the breakfast end of things, but I managed to find mole de pollo (Chicken mole) and the menu and quickly place my order.Mole in Mexico

I had been to Mexico previously, and my trip then taught me that there is a reason the “mole” comes first in the dish’s name – the chicken is slathered in mole sauce. Not that I am complaining – smooth and chocolatey, mixing together with the rice and fall-off-the-bone chicken, a solid chocolate mole really can’t do anything wrong to a dish. Especially if it is the focal point. That being said, I did think El Popular’s addition of a copious amount of sesame seeds was a little strange, until I found the seeds being used in dishes across Mexico City. Maybe it is just a culinary fad, but I can’t say I am on board with this one. Overall, I left El Popular satisfied and eager for other moles – particularly ones that break the common chocolate-only stereotype we often find in the USA.

Restaurante Techinanco
Service Road, North of Pyramid of the Moon
Teotihuacán, Estado de México, México

The next day I went exploring in Teotihuacan, an ancient site outside of Mexico City so massive and pyramid-ridden that a few hours of walking completely wears you out. For sustenance, I made the mistake of trusting my Lonely Planet guide to direct me toward Restaurant Techinanco, which it recommended as having the best food for miles around. The writers were correct about the food, but an hour of looking for the restaurant made me realize they were wrong about the location (it is directly behind, not next to, the Pyramid of the Moon at the north end of the site).

When I finally got to Techinanco (pronounced tetch-ee-non-co), I was the only patron in the restaurant. A quick glance around gave away a few of the restaurant’s secrets – the two mushroom posters at the far end (visible in the photo) leak some of the key ingredients in a number of Techinanco’s dishes. The plethora of masks on the far wall give off a far less touristy vibe than the surrounding establishments – and the effort saved goes directly into the food.Mole in Mexico

Techinanco’s menu was small, but I made a quick decision: chicken with mole huitlacoche (also spelled cuitlacoche), a green sauce made with mushrooms and maize (wild corn). The friendly owners must have made a pot of the sauce earler in the day, as my food was served almost immediately. And it was heavenly. I can’t really say what I imagined a mushroom / corn mole sauce would taste like, but this was not it. It was almost acidic, with a sharp bite that activated my tastebuds in all the right places, then finished smooth like a good homemade pasta sauce. The finishing taste only made you eat more, and while I filled up quickly during the meal, had I had more than a few pesos in my pocket I probably would have ordered seconds. To top it off, the chicken was grilled to perfection, holding just the right amount of natural juices to let the huitlacoche work its magic. If I am ever back in Teotihuacan, I will definitely make the effort to find Techinanco again (no thanks to the Lonely Planet mapmakers!)

All in all, Mexican food once again fails to disappoint. L and I have plans to try to make our own moles (possibly an upcoming Recipe Friday?) – perhaps we can try to create my new huitlacoche favorite. I doubt it can even approach Techinanco’s creations, however. If in the meantime anyone has any Chicago-area suggestions for some authentic Mexican regional moles, we would love to hear them!

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It’s Paleta Time: Mark Bittman’s Banana Paleta Recipe

The New York Times is feeling the Paleta love. Our favorite Mexican Popsicles were featured in an article by Mark Bittman recently. There is also a recipe included for Banana Paletas. It couldn’t be simpler! It’s summer – give it a go.

Banana Paletas
Time: 10 minutes, plus freezing. (Makes 4-6 servings)

  • 2 medium bananas, about 3/4 cup
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/4 cup sugar.

Purée all ingredients together in a blender until smooth. Pour into 4 to 6 molds and freeze until solid. Unmold by first running a little cold water over outside of molds, then gently pulling the sticks.

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Mexico Trip: La Estancia del Centro

La Estancia del Centro
Avenidas Morelos and Juárez Veracruz,
Veracruz, Mexico

L and I have had something of an obsession with molcajetes, particularly their usual short stocky legs and animal faces, since we saw them used as salsa bowls at a Chicago restaurant last year. Last week, while I was in Veracruz, Mexico for an academic conference, I discovered that while there I would actually be able to eat molcajete the food, a pre-hispanic dish made with a heated mixture of salsa, spices, and nopal, ground together to form a sauce, then used to cook meat and vegetables inside the molcajete pot.

I read in my Lonely planet book that La Estancia del Centro (the Mexico lonely planet guide misprinted the name as La Estancia de Boca) was the best and only place in Veracruz to eat molcajetes. La Estancia del Centro so publicizes its molcajetes, in fact, that they use the iconic image as the symbol for their restaurant. With reviews and a kitschy logo on my side, I knew I had to try this place.

It was 7pm when I made the short walk from Veracruz’ zócalo to La Estancia. I was the only diner in the restaurant at the time (7pm is far too early for dinner for most Mexicans), but was served promptly and courteously. I ordered quickly – a molcajete of enchilada meat, cooked in a green salsa base. The server took my order, and then immediately brought out my complimentary appetizers: a strangely crumbly piece of bread (as opposed to the typical tortillas) served with three different dipping salsas. The bread was completely incompatible with the salsas, full of holes that let the sauces fall through, but as the only things on the table I had no choice but to put them together. I picked away at the bread and the salsas, testing out their different flavor combinations, when my molcajete finally arrived.

The large stone bowl, decorated with animal legs and a pig head front, had been used to prepare all the food and then heated in an oven until sizzling. One needs to be careful, as one touch of the heated stone bowl is just as dangerous as a boiling pot of water. I mixed around the contents: the salsa base (which looked much more red than green to me), the meat, and two small onions. The dish came with an endless supply of corn tortillas (I’d take advantage).

One thing I have always appreciated about Mexican cuisine in general is the way a number of different sauces and spices are incorporated that allow the eater to experience a variety of different flavor combinations inside the same meal. This was no different. The molcajete, by itself, was absolutely delectable. The nopal gave the meat and sauce an acidic finish, leaving your taste buds tingling just enough to get more. But with that, one could combine any or all of the three salsas, which seemed to take on different flavors than when eaten alone. One made the molcajete almost unbearably spicy, another gave it a cooler, lime flavor; and the third (a disappointment) didn’t seem to do much at all. All in all, the meal was large, hearty, and outside the weird bread, a fantastic culinary experience. The best part? The price – a meal easily large enough for two people cost a total of 90 pesos (around $9 US).

A final thought – this seemed to be a meal you can get in very few places in the world, and one I am very anxious to try some different versions of. Chicago has a great selection of Mexican regional cuisine, so perhaps there is a good spot in the city to find some. Until then, La Estancia del Centro was far and away the best food I had in Veracruz, and any return trip I have to the city will definitely include another molcajete.

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[Philly Trip] Mexico: El Vez

Mexico FlagEl Vez
121 S. 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA

El Vez is kitschy, loud and fun, the perfect place for a fun dinner out with a friend. So, when my friend Kun decided on dinner there for our night out in Philly, I was excited. The food is decidedly Nuevo Latino, and in true Steven Starr style, the dining room is tricked out with all sorts of over-the-top touches like a sequined low rider and photo-and-memento-covered walls.

We ordered a molcajete of ‘El Vez’ Guacamole, with tomato, onions, jalapeno, cilantro and lime ($12). The guac was the favorite part of the meal (if a little overpriced), and came with a basket of bottomless freshly-fried corn tortilla chips. Since my camera is kaput, I have included this lovely molcajete picture on the right from Flickr user Texas to Mexico, which approximates the one we had at El Vez. For mains we both had mole dishes, at Kun’s recommendation. The Red Chile and Chicken Enchiladas with cotija cheese ($9) and chicken mole dinner entree with refried beans and tortillas ($14) were completely made by the rich, smoky mole sauce.

All in all, El vez was a little on the pricey side, but worth it for the kitschy ambiance and pretty good (if not entirely authentic food). I mean, check out the lo-rider bike from the Website…

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FTC: Paletas

Spring is officially here – yesterday I saw a paleta cart rolling down the sidewalk. Paletas are Mexican popsicles, with either a milk or water base, and they are delicious! While paletas are a common site on the street, they are also sold in most Mexican grocery stores. We recently picked up paletas from a local supermercado, La Huerta (580 S. Randall Rd, St. Charles, IL) in anticipation of the arrival of warm weather. Our all-time favorite place for paletas is Paleteria La Monarca (6955 N Clark St., Chicago, IL), especially their lime flavor.

L picked Mango and Chile variety – the bar was full of fresh mango chunks and a healthy dose of powdered chile – you can really feel the kick at the end. M went for the more conventional chocolate and almond milk-based bar. Think a really tasty version of a pudding pop, with shaved almond bits throughout. Other varieties available included strawberry and tamarind, as well as a melon flavor called “Mamey.” We were initially drawn to the brand because of its colorful butterfly packaging, a theme also present at La Monarca. Apparently Michoacan is a common name for paleta companies, and the unconfirmed home of the paleta is located in the Mexican State of the same name.

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Recipe Monday: Tortilla Soup

It was a cold weekend in Chicago, so we wanted something warm. We found a recipe for tortilla soup on the Food Network website, so we decided to give it a try.

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium white onions, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 jalapeños, seeded and minced
3 ripe medium tomatoes, chopped
1 quart chicken stock, recipe follows
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil, for pan-frying
8 corn tortillas, cut into 1/8-inch-thick strips
1 1/2 cups shredded cooked chicken
2 avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and diced
1 cup shredded Jack cheese, optional
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
1 lime, cut in wedges, for serving

Directions:
Place a stockpot over medium heat and coat with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onions, garlic, jalapeños, and tomatoes; cook, stirring for 15 minutes until the vegetables are cooked down and pulpy. Pour in the stock, season with salt and pepper, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 1-inch of canola oil in a skillet over medium-high flame. When the oil begins to smoke, add the tortilla strips in batches and fry until they are crisp on all sides. Remove to a paper towel-lined platter and sprinkle with salt while they are still hot. Ladle the hot soup into 4 soup bowls and put a pile of shredded chicken on top of each. Top with the diced avocado and fried tortilla strips (and cheese if using). Garnish with cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

The best part was frying up the corn tortillas. We cut up small corn tortillas, tossed them in the hot oil and they cooked in 5 seconds flat. Be sure to have a slotted spoon ready! All in all, the soup was good, but not great. We feel it could have used a bit more of a kick. Maybe more jalapeños, or hot sauce. We added some more pepper, which helped liven it up a bit. Other than that all of the flavors worked really well, but how can you really go wrong with fresh cilantro and lime?

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