Category Archives: Reviews

Las Americas, Bolivian in Miami

Las Americas Bolivian Restaurant
We visited: 700 South Royal Poinciana Boulevard, #120, Miami Springs
Now Located at 2772 8th St SE, Miami, FL

BoliviaFlagTo say we had some difficulty in finding Las Americas would be something of an understatement. Yelp, you lie to us. The address you have on file is for their previous location, but Las Americas moved out from a busy, restaurant-filled strip of NW 7th Stret in Miami to the (correct) addressed listed above sometime last year. But their new location is definitely not where one would expect to find a restaurant: on a diagonal street in an office park, located on the ground floor of a nondescript mid-rise office building. If not for the Bolivian flag peeking out, we may never have found it. But we are glad we did.

See the Bolivian flag on the left? That's how you know!

See the Bolivian flag on the left? That’s how you know!

Las Americas is set up in a rather unusual way. It seems to serve partly as the go-to cafeteria for the office building, so there is a smaller interior space attached to a larger, partially open-air area with outdoor seating and a roof. It was a nice day (it’s Miami, after all), so we decided to sit out there, surrounded by a sprinkling of Bolivian artifacts and clothing on the walls. After a few minutes, the friendly owner came out and helpfully explained the menu to us. We were intrigued by a drink called mok’ochinchi, which we have never seen anywhere else, but the restaurant was out of it that day. Peruvian aficionados will also be familiar with chicha morada, and they make a good one at Las Americas.???????????????????????????????

On a recommendation both from the owner and from reviews, we started with a Bolivian-style empanada called a salteña (pictured above). Fantastic! Perfectly baked, its savory filling crossed with a sweet touch and a generous helping of olives. Pair with Las Americas’ signature spicy salsa (not for the faint of heart), and a few of these (only $2.50 each) are a meal in and of themselves.

The main entrees at Las Americas will remind patrons of Peruvian cuisine with less of a coastal influence: lots of starches, grilled meats, accented with vegetables, with a heavy emphasis on clean, simple flavors. We opted to split an order of grilled steak (bistec), which was served with the typical Andean starch accompaniments, potato and large-kernel corn. This was the first time we had ever actually seen the large kernels attached to the corn, so this was cool to see! The steak also came with a refreshing side salad of tomatoes, red onions, and a creamy cheese similar to feta.  At $12.50, this was plenty for two people. Overall, Las Americas helped us check a new country off the list while satisfying our Andean food cravings. It’s definitely worth a try, and the office employees are lucky to have it for their lunch break!

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Pummarola: Miami-area Neapolitan Pizza

Pummarola
141 Aragon Ave.
Coral Gables FL 33134

ItalyLet’s be frank: we are total pizza snobs. When it comes to pizza, it takes a lot to impress us. Maybe it is because we had superlative pizza in Naples, and let’s be honest, there is nothing like pizza in Naples. Maybe it is because both of us come from Italian families. Or maybe (and this is probably the most important) it is because Matt’s grandmother has owned and operated her own pizza shop for the last fifty years. In any case, we were surprised to fall so quickly in love with Pummarola, a small restaurant serving up pizza that part Neapolitan, part northern Italian, and part pure Miami. Small with not even ten tables, the tiny space is dominated by a stone pizza oven and a red Fiat 500 car stuck into the wall as decoration. Love it. Maybe an allusion to the Neapolitan traffic?

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Pummarola’s menu includes pasta and salads, but the main attraction is the pizza, which is made exactly like we had it in Naples – and thus exactly as we have come to expect it. The obvious reason for this? Everyone who works at Pummarola, from the owner to the pizzaolo, is Neapolitan. Everyone except the ebullient and witty manager, who hails from northern Italy: “I’m the only real Italian here!” he quipped with a wink, echoing the north / south Italian cultural divide. With a Neapolitan pizzaolo behind the counter, it is no surprise that we found the pizza to be purely Neapolitan. It was fun to watch the pizza being prepared and the white tiled pizza oven heating up. We went twice, and each time split a large pizza (which is really is enough for 3). The first was a perfectly-made margherita, with buffalo mozzarella and perfect tomato sauce. Other varieties included spicy salami, truffled mushrooms and pancetta.

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On our second trip we had a prosciutto and arugula pizza, also fantastic. L, always one to explore further afield, tried the arancini, which was good, but nothing to write home about. Our quest for a respectable arancine in the US continues. Still, that pizza just blew us away. This was one of the best pizzas we’ve had in this country (not on this side of the Atlantic, though – we’re looking at you, São Paulo) and one of the few that approximated those we had in Naples. We liked both pizzas, but our hat tip goes to the margherita, for its clean flavors. If you are craving Neapolitan style pizza, do not think twice to head Pummarola. It is cheaper than a flight to Naples!

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Los Pinarenos Fruteria: A country escape in urban Miami

Los Pinarenos Fruteria
1334 SW 8th St
Miami, FL 33135???????????????????????????????

Los Pinarenos Fruteria is so atmospheric you would love to go there even if the food wasn’t any good (apparently Chase picked up on this as well). But the drinks are so delicious, it just makes us want to visit more. Right on Calle Ocho, Los Pinarenos is combination of a country farm a juice counter and fruit stand. This place made us think of all the juice bars in Brazil we used to love to visit, with their huge menus of flavor options.

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Los Pinarenos has juice options in spades, and you can get everything from parsley to mamey along with more familiar fruits. You can order either a juice or a milkshake (batido) of any of the fruit flavors. There are also savory tidbits and cafe Cubano, but we never got past the fruit to try them. Every drink is made fresh to order, and from real fruit. Of course, as fun as it is to sit the counter, anyone who has ever been there will tell you the best place to sit is out back. There are a few tables out back populated usually by Cuban men in white shirts, however also holding court out back are a flock of chickens, some ornery roosters, and – the real reason to visit – the fattest pig we have ever seen.??????????????????????????????? So we first saw this pig on our first visit to Miami in January, and well…. we didn’t know if she’d still be around in February. Made into lechon, we assumed. We didn’t know if she was a pet or dinner! Turns out she is a pet, and her name is “Chucha,” and you can see her and her menagerie any day. It seems like she has a pretty content life. Case in point – we ordered two watermelon jugos one day, and Chucha got the entire watermelon rind, so we like to think we are contributing a little bit to her happiness. There is also a baby pig nearby, but you have to ask permission to see her. We’ll be back whenever we are in Miami – for the ambiance, the drinks, and to visit our favorite animals!

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A Taste of Nicaragua in Miami: Chayito’s Fritanga

Chayito’s Fritanga
6153 SW 8th St.
Miami, FL 33144

Nicaragua_flagA new country! Miami finally provided us an opportunity to sample Nicaraguan cuisine. We’re sad it took us so long to get here: though there are no Nica places in Chicago, there are a TON in Miami. So, where to eat? The simplest answer is that you can eat at one of the many “fritangas,” a type of Nicaraguan restaurant where home-style food is served, often in a cafeteria setting and under heat lamps. But Cesar Perez and his sister Martha, the owners and operators of Chayito’s Fritanga, offer one better by offering una nueva experiencia en fritanga (“a new experience in fritangas”). The difference? Cesar and Martha make their food to order, as opposed to serving it on a steam table. That means everything is fresh!

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The menu is small, but hits all of the classics. Sample the nacatamales, Nicaraguan tamales filled with meat ($3.50), vigoron, a salad if grated yuca, chicharrones, and cabbage ($4); and indio viejo, a stew made from corn and meat ($6.50). On Cesar’s recommendation, we ordered the Carne Asada ($7) and queso frito ($3.75) The steak was extremely tender, perfectly seasoned, and well-cooked; as was the fried cheese, and the portions were huge! Both dishes were served with gallo pinto (a classic side of rice and black beans common throughout Central America) and tajadas (fried plantains). We left completely full, and the prices were extremely reasonable for the portions.

Chayito's

The food tasted like it was right out of Mom’s kitchen. Well in this case, mom, Maria Rosario, nicknamed “Chayito,” was the one doing the cooking. We absolutely loved the fresh spin on the fritanga concept. Who doesn’t love food to order? And, what’s more, the people are awesome. Cesar and Martha are jovial and welcoming, making us feel right at home by helping us order and explaining the history of the restaurant. Next time you are in Miami, definitely go to Chayito’s for a real taste of (Nicaraguan) home.

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Enriqueta’s Sandwich Shop, Cuban Sandwiches in Miami

Enriqueta’s Sandwich Shop
186 NE 29th St
Miami, FL 33137

cubaWhile Enriqueta’s Sandwich Shop is in many ways a typical Cuban sandwich joint in Miami, it attracts a loyal and devoted following. A little off the beaten path,  Enriqueta’s is a simple lunch counter with one side facing into the restaurant and another side  with a window open to the street. Sometimes I wonder how a place like that can ever keep up with orders, but somehow they do, albeit a little slowly. Being from Chicago, I can’t quite ever wrap my head around the concept of an open air lunch counter, or frankly any outside window walk-up, so of course we had to order our food there. When in Rome…

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The menu consists of pressed Cuban sandwiches and hearty side dishes like fried plantains and beans and rice. Fritas, or Cuban burgers, with shoestring potatoes on top, were also on offer. We split a Cubano sandwich and a “Chicken classic” sandwich, which consisted of tomato, lettuce, Cuban grilled chicken and a hearty helping of shoestring potatoes. We also ordered a side of fried plantains. The sandwiches took about 15 minutes to arrive, and as we waited, the growing line snaked across the parking lot. There was nowhere to sit outside to eat, so we snagged a bench on the street, and unwrapped our sandwiches to chow down. The sandwiches were huge (and under $9, so it is a great value)! The Cuban roll was perfectly crispy, the fillings were fresh and the plantains were tasty, if a little mushy. Enriqueta’s is a perfect little lunch joint off the beaten track of Wynwood. If you need a cheap, tasty Cuban fix, definitely give it a try!

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Our go-to spot for Vietnamese Banh Mi: Ba Le Bakery

Ba Le Bakery
5014 N Broadway St.
Chicago, IL 60640

vietnamBa Le is such an old favorite we can’t believe that we haven’t written about it before. Honestly though, the more often we go to a place, the more often we assume we have already written about the place (as is the case with our favorite restaurant in Madison, Greenbush Tavern). Oops! In any case, Ba Le is certainly someplace you should not overlook. Their specialty is the Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwich, and they are hugely popular. Ba Le does one of our favorite classic banh mi sandwiches, with crispy-yet-tender baguettes, pickled carrot and daikon slaw, cilantro, a little (never too much) mayo and jalapeno peppers. You can get a variety of meat fillings; our favorites are lemongrass chicken and roast pork (though you can also do vegetarian if you are so inclined). We also just realized there is even an incongruous prosciutto banh mi – anyone tried it?

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We appreciate the sandwiches at banh mi because the combination of all of the essential banh mi elements works so well together. The baguette is always fresh, and not soggy, and there is never too much mayo. Of course, part of the appeal of Ba Le is the price – most of the sandwiches are less than $5 – and if you buy 5 sandwiches, you get the 6th free. So definitely bring some friends, or stock up for work lunches (don’t worry we won’t tell). Other entrees include noodle salads and salad rolls, but we’re all about the banh mi.

BanhMi

Along with banh mi sandwiches, there are a large variety of take-out dishes and snacks in the front of the store. If you are thirsty, you can get the ubiquitous Cafe du Monde laden Thai iced coffee, bubble tea, or even some more original tea varieties, like chrysanthemum. There is also a selection of Vietnamese desserts up front, such as a variety of delectable che puddings and sugary cookies. Of course, we are also drawn to the selection of French macarons, with some delectable tropical flavors like mango and passion fruit. Though we have tried several spots around town for Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches, we always keep going back to Ba Le. It never disappoints!

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Adventures in Floridian Produce: Zapote

Well, we made a huge mistake and returned to Chicago (10 degrees) from Miami (80 degrees). But over the next week we will bring you highlights of our culinary adventures in south Florida, including our multiple visits to Los Pinarenos, a fruit store famous for its juices and smoothies on Calle Ocho, in the heart of Miami’s Little Havana (review coming soon!)

While sitting outside at Los Pinarenos, sipping our watermelon juices, we looked up at the tree we were sitting under, and grew curious about what kind of fruits it produced. We asked the amiable owner, and he responded it was a zapote. He pointed us to a small group of apple-sized, soft, brown fruits. We had never heard of them, never seen one, and had no idea what they tasted like. So, of course, we bought one!

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Our zapote, fresh from the tree.

Zapote is the Cuban name given to a fruit known widely as the sapodilla, which grows throughout Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean. Today it is also widely grown in southeast Asia (why didn’t we find it while we were there?), bring introduced to the Philippines by the Spanish. The taste is difficult to describe, but unlike anything else we have had: semi-savory, with nutty hints of cinnamon, it tastes like a lúcuma crossbred with a honeydew and cotton candy, but without as much sugar. When ripe they are quite soft, with the consistency of a soft melon. As such, you can’t just bite it – you need to scoop it out with a fork or a spoon. Still, the flesh comes out a bit grainy, with flecks of tasty zapote goodness.

We were quite mesmerized by this fruit. Has anyone else heard of it? And is there anywhere to get it in Chicago? We’ll keep searching and get back to you. In the meantime, stay tuned for posts from the rest of Miami!

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A Tour of Hidden Russian and Georgian Devon Ave.

  Chicagoans associate Devon Avenue almost singularly with a vibrant Indian community, and vibrant Indian food. But travel a bit further west on Devon, and it morphs into a Russian community, home to some of the city’s best stores for Russian and eastern European fare. We set out with one of our good friends, a Russian-born New Yorker from Brighton Beach no less, to see just what Devon had to offer. We figured it was perfect timing to inspire you to get some Russian goodies in honor of the winter Olympics in Sochi!

Our first stop on Devon was Argo Georgian Bakery (2812 W. Devon Ave.), a place we had been meaning to try for quite a while. Right in the center of the store was an amazing Georgian oven. There were an assortment of delicious baked goods for sale, and we especially enjoyed the Hachapuri (Georgian bread stuffed with cheese). You can also get a variety of breads (lavash and shoti), and bean-filled breads (lobianai) and also frozen foods to bring home. We are carb lovers, and absolutely adored the freshness and artistry of these breads.

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We were not lucky enough to see bread being removed from the huge beehive-shaped oven, the toné. But we have  learned how the bread is made: it operates similar to a tandoori oven, where the bread is stuck to the side walls as it cooks.

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After filling up on bread at Argo, we headed over to Three Sisters Delicatessen (2854 W. Devon Ave.). Three Sisters is a nice, but small, specialty store absolutely jam-packed with treats from Russia. One one side there is a large meat case, and a selection of some pretty appealing looking cakes. You are also in luck if you are in the market for caviar, salted fish, or Russian cookies and chocolates.

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At first sight the blandly-named City Fresh Market (3201 W. Devon Ave.) looked like  a typical neighborhood grocery store. But once we got inside, our friend got so excited: the market has a strong Eastern European flavor, with a huge array of Eastern European canned goods and deli items. Her personal favorite, and ours, was the huge pickle bar, packed with unusual things like pickled tomatoes (as seen below). This was a real standout, and unlike anything else we had seen in Chicago!

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A Taste of Chile in Brazil: El Guatón

chileEl Guatón
Rua Artur de Azevedo, 906
Pinheiros, São Paulo, Brazil

El Guatón was our first foray into Chilean food, and we had to go all the way to Brazil to do it! One of the world’s great foodie cities, São Paulo is known for its range of restaurants. We were excited (but not really surprised) to find a Chilean restaurant among its ranks of eateries.  We heard good things about El Guatón, and looking at their menu online we noticed some similarities with both Peruvian and Argentine restaurants that we had visited before. We were on board!

Dinner at El Guaton in Sao Paulo

Dinner at El Guatón in São Paulo

El Guatón is cute and cozy with red-tablecloths, and a little patio out front. Unfortunately, we arrived on a chilly day, so everyone chose to stay warm inside. We got a small table in the back, which – at the risk of stereotyping Brazilian restaurants – means you will never be served. But the service was prompt and courteous, and even more surprising for Brazil, there was a basket of food placed on our table for zero charge. In the land of couverts, this was a nice change! El Guatón also features an extensive wine list,featuring many Chilean varieties. There is even a bottle of the house red put on the table, and most people do seem to take advantage of it.

Chilean Empanada

Chilean Empanada

One of the most popular items on the menu, according to reviews, are the empanadas (in Spanish) or empadas (in Portuguese), terms basically referring to the same sort of delicious carb filled with meat or cheese. The cost was a reasonable at R$6 for baked and R$8.50 for fried. We ordered a baked cheese, and fried shrimp. The baked empanada was slightly smaller and a had a lighter taste, perhaps it would be good for the “health-conscious” empanada lover (if such a person exists). The fried variety was seemingly twice as big and came out piping hot, with a tender crust and nice oozy cheese. They definitely made both of these varieties to order – and it showed. YUM!

El Guaton Ceviche

El Guatón Ceviche

Beyond empanadas there were a variety of meat and seafood dishes including picanha, fried fish, ceviche and humitas (Chilean tamales). Matt is a major fan of ceviche, and after our successful ceviche meal in Rio at Cevicheria Carioca (review forthcoming!), he wanted another hit. The ceviche at El Guatón was only R$53 for fish ceviche for two. It is plenty large enough for two people, and in many ways simpler and subtler than many of the Peruvian ceviches with which he, and many readers, may be more familiar. This ceviche was simple: just white fish, lime juice, diced white onions, and cilantro – a combination that resulted in a rather tame tiger milk, but still mixed and effectively presented all the great flavors.

We were also surprised to find lúcuma on the menu. A fruit native to mountain valleys in the Andes, Matt grew to love its sweet potato / maple / nutty flavor while living in Peru.  El Guatón featured a lúcuma cake (R$13), which was very tasty, but essentially just a puff-ball of whipped cream on a very thin crust. It needed a little more substance (and definitely a little more lúcuma).

We had a great meal at El Guatón and we wish there were more Chilean places around. We love it almost as much as Peruvian food! Maybe someday we will be back, until then we’ll have to scour for another Chilean eatery. Is there a Chilean restaurant in your neck of the woods?

Lucuma Cake

Lúcuma Cake

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Discovering Yen Ta Foe at Win Coffee in Bangkok

Lindsay and I (now that we have revealed our real names!) were in southeast Asia in 2010, traversing around the region after a short stop-off for an academic conference in Singapore. As loyal readers know, we are big advocates for street food and small, specialty restaurants that specialize in a few items. Without painting with too broad a brush, this style is classic southeast Asian food culture, and Bangkok is no exception. 

Luckily, we made a friend. While doing some shopping and wandering around Wat Ratchabophit, we met Bee, a Bangkok native who had gone to school in North Carolina (we speak hardly any Thai, but she speaks perfect English). And she was eager to show us her favorite restaurant: Win Coffee, not far from her shop on Thanon Tanao. We’re actually not sure how to render the address, but they have a  Google Plus page.

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Win Coffee, though billed as a coffee place, had what Bee said was her favorite Yen Ta Foe in the city, a classic Thai dish made with lots of ingredients that, at least according to her, would make Americans cringe. Ingredients l fish balls, squid slices, and coagulated blood are put in a soup flavored with chilis, fish sauce, and fermented soybean paste, and topped with crispy chips like the casing for Crab Rangoon.  Eatingthaifood.com has a great description of Yen Ta Foe if you would like more detail. Though Bee suggested the dish, in Thai, to the owner, I heard the owner say back to her something about a farang – the Thai word for a foreigner.

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If there’s any point we try to make on this blog, it’s that you shouldn’t be afraid to try new things. And for me in particular, the more a local person tells me I won’t like something, the more I want to try it. And I loved the Yen Ta Foe (ordered extra Thai spicy, of course). Bangkok street food provides a thrilling mix of textures and flavors, unlocking palettes that other regional cuisines don’t. Yen Ta Foe is great at this – it’s an exciting mix of textures and flavors, and I loved it. While Win Coffee is well off the standard Bangkok tourist trail, we would encourage visitors to explore these lesser-known areas of town. Any small place that is open is going to make you happy, and Win Coffee definitely did.

On a sidenote, Bee was supposed to facebook us after we parted ways (and after she so graciously paid for our food), but we never connected. Bee, if you stumble upon this, send us an email! We’d love to head back to Thailand and try more food with you.

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Northern Thai Cuisine in Chicago at Sticky Rice

Sticky Rice
4018 N Western Ave.
Chicago, IL

thailandOne of our favorite cuisines is Thai, and though we love our go-tos, sometimes we get a little suck in a rut and keep ordering the same thing. However, Sticky Rice is the perfect antidote. Most Thai restaurants in Chicago specialize in Southern Thai food, and the cuisine of Bangkok. However, Chicago is lucky enough to have Sticky Rice, a Northern Thai restaurant that has dishes that are uniquely local. Sticky Rice is cute, clean and open, and was pretty crowded (though the photo from this angle doesn’t show it) when we arrived on a Saturday night. The menu is prodigious, covering, curries, soups and noodle dishes; but on this night we made a beeline for the Thai Northern specialties. 
Sticky Rice

For appetizers, we ordered Som Tum, papaya salad with lime ($5.95), chicken satay ($5.95- not adventurous, but delicious) and the sugarcane shrimp ($6.25). Our food arrived surprisingly quickly, and we dove right in. The papaya salad was light and refreshing, and the sugarcane shrimp was not exactly what we expected – shrimp patties on huge hunks of sugarcane, but it was still tasty.

Sticky Rice

M ordered the Gang Hung Lay ($7.50), pork garlic and ginger in a Northern Thai chili paste and L ordered Chicken Kow Soy ($7.50), a Northern coconut curry soup. We also were intrigued by the Gang Kae frogs legs, cooked in a spicy soup ($8.95). The Kow Soi was delicious and creamy, was richly spiced with turmeric and cardamom, and was reminiscent of Indian cuisine. turns out this dish is the result of Yunnanese traders who settled along the trade routes from India and China crossing in Thailand – delicious. M’s curry was spicy and hearty, and he slurped up the broth.

Sticky Rice

Sticky Rice is a great place to try to different flavors of Northern Thai cuisine, and we can’t wait to go back and work our way through some of the Northern Thai specialties. However, if you or your dining companions are feeling more in the mood for a classic curry or Pad Thai, you can find it here too.

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A Taste of Alsace in Chicago: La Fournette

La Fournette
1547 N. Wells
Chicago, IL

franceIt is particularly appropriate that I am writing this review of a little French bakery while listening to Julia Child’s “My Life in Paris” (so she’s not a pastry chef, but still…) We happened upon La Fournette after a trip to the Chicago History Museum, and we were pleased by the quaint ambiance and the large variety of baked goods. We were a little taken aback that we were greeted with a chipper “Bonjour” upon entering, but in the best possible way.

La Fournette

La Fournette seating space

The bakery itself is long and narrow, with wooden tables at one end, and a very long glass counter at the other (you can even do a tour on Google Maps). “Fournette” means little oven, so it is no surprise that the specialty of the house is the delicious bread. We sampled some of the house specialty bread, a dense sourdough called “Miche La Fournette” ($6.95 for a 2 lb loaf). There was a large selection of attractive carb-y delights piled on the baking racks. The Provençal Olive Fougasse bread ($5.75) looked particularly appealing, and who could go wrong with a classic baguette. The chef is from the German-influenced French region of Alsace, so that unique culinary heritage is also present in the bakery – they even have Bretzels ($2.15)!

La Fournette

The Pastry Case at La Fournette

Of course we also made a beeline for the sweets. There was a pretty decent selection of macarons ($1.80), from which we ordered a chocolate and passion fruit/mango. The chocolate was a little flat but the fruit macaron was light and delicious. We were a little disappointed to find the financiers and madeleines pre-wrapped, but we were reassured that everything is made in-house. For something more substantial, there are a rotating selection of soup and sweet or savory crepes. M selected a bacon lentil soup, which was very warming (and very bacon-y). There is also a small drink menu from which we ordered some chocolate chaud, or hot chocolate. It was not too sweet (which we like) and perfect for the freezing weather. Perhaps a cafe au lait some other morning?

Galette des Rois

Galette des Rois – “King Cake”

One of the key features of the cafe that we enjoyed is that you will find people actually talking to each other, not just working on laptops, as you see in most other cafes. We highly enjoyed our relaxing afternoon snack and the convivial atmosphere, and we hope to get there earlier another morning so we can sample the croissants and brioche that had long sold out by the time we arrived. Moreover, we are looking forward to visiting the outdoor cafe portion in more friendly weather.

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Miami’s Best Pan con Lechón: Papa Llega y Pon

Papa Llega y Pon
2928 NW 17th Avenue
Miami, FL 33125

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Well, we finally managed to make it home from our whirlwind culinary tour of Miami (thanks to the Polar Vortex for the delays)! In the coming days we’ll have reviews of eats around Little Havana / Calle Ocho, Miami’s amazing coffee culture, and why South Beach scares us. But today, we head straight for the reason M loves Miami so much: pan con lechón, a classic cuban pork sandwich. Lechón is a Spanish term for roasted suckling pig (BBQ lovers: note that lechón is NOT smoked, so do not expect a pulled pork sandwich). In Cuba, and especially among Cuban expats in Miami, pan con lechón (literally bread with roasted pig) is a classic lunch. We asked around, and there was near-universal agreement as to where to go to find the best of the best: Papa Llega y Pon, in Miami’s Allapattah neighborhood.

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It seems by now that we have an affinity for places serving lechón by someone named Papa. At Papa Llega y Pon, pan con lechón is the specialty of the house and a simple affair. Papa Llega y Pon seems to take pride in being nondescript. There is no sign either on the street or at the restaurant, so it is easy to miss if you do not know what you are looking for. Even so, the small parking lot, we were told, is almost impossible to get in and out of on weekdays around lunchtime. We played it safe and went at late afternoon on a Saturday, when it was nearly empty. Walking up the counter, you are greeted by women brandishing meat cleavers, ready to take your order. You have few options: you can order a pan con bistec (beef sandwich) or pan con lechón. While there are rumors of people ordering the former, the sign on the building’s north side is there to remind you of what you should be asking for:

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When ordering, you are given a choice of sizes for your sandwich (we opted for medium, $6 each) as well as toppings. We went all out and chose both possible toppings, cebolla y picante (onions and hot sauce).

???????????????????????????????At Papa Llega y Pon, the pork is lightly but effectively seasoned, the hot sauce adds a tinge of spice (barely discernible to M), and the onions blend in with the rest of the pork, adding a little extra texture and variety to the flavors. Adding more texture is the obligatory chicharrón (fried pork rinds) mixed in with the pork meat. You can order yours without chicharrón, but you’ll get some strange looks from your servers. Overall, this is simple comfort food, so those expecting bold flavors or exquisite preparation will be disappointed. This is well-made, well-seasoned, and classically prepared food for those who have come to expect the best of the same. It definitely satisfied our lechón cravings, and there is no wonder it is so popular in Miami.

 

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The end of the Srirachapocalypse is near

Hot sauce addicts, never fear, Huy Fong Sriracha sauce will start shipping to stores again in late January. The Sirachapocalypse will soon be over.

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Vegan Indian Cuisine at Arya Bhavan

India FlagArya Bhavan
2508 W Devon Ave.
Chicago, IL 60659

Indian food is certainly vegetarian, but things like ghee and paneer make it less friendly for vegans. However, Arya Bhavan is a perfect go-to restaurants for those who are vegan and want to indulge in some Indian food. We went with our cousin, a vegan as well as a  big Indian food fan. The menu was quite extensive, and featured both North and South Indian favorites including a wide selection of naans, dosas, dals and paneers as well as some non-traditional salads. The menu could possibly be overwhelming, but the waitress/owner Kirti was more than happy to give recommendations. For those who really can’t decide, there is a vegan buffet on Friday nights, and throughout the weekend. Our vegan dining companion was especially excited about the vegan mango lassi, which was declared delicious.

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We ordered three dishes and shared among ourselves. Of course, we also selected a garlic naan, which was quite tasty. For our first dish we tried something new, Northern Indian dumplings, Malai Kofta ($12) served with a cashew gravy, which had a nice kick to it. The second dish, Dal Bunzara ($12) was composed of sauteed lentils in a cumin, green tomato and onion sauce. We also tried one of our staples, Palak Paneer ($12) with vegan cheese and spinach. Our favorite dish was actually the one most unusual to us, the Malai Kofta dumplings, which had a great texture, and we sopped up the last of the sauce with our naan. The vegan paneer was a pretty good rendition, though we’d probably stick to the dairy version elsewhere.

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Overall, the service was a little haphazard (ironically, they were in the process of hiring a new waitress while we were eating). However, we did not feel ignored. The waitress/owner/chef/jack-of-all-trades Chef Kirti, who waited on us was one of the most passionate owners we have ever come across, and she was fully committed to providing healthy, tasty foods for those with all sorts of dietary needs (perhaps a little too healthy…. since she warned us the barfi dessert was too fattening). It was refreshing to see someone so dedicated to her food mission!

For those with even more exacting food needs there is even a raw food buffet on Monday nights, and most dishes can also be made gluten-free. There is something for everyone at Arya Bhavan, from traditional dishes to regional specialties, from dishes that are naturally veggie-only to ones that have been created specifically for vegan palates. We were happy to find a place the pleases vegans and omnivores alike!

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With Eataly Open, Don’t Forget Chicagoland’s Other Italian Groceries

Flag_of_Chicago,_IllinoisItalyOur much-anticipated and extensive review of Eataly is forthcoming (we’ll do it after we get at least two visits under our belts). But with Eataly and its associated madness and euphoria  now in Chicago, it may be time to remind everyone that our fair city (and the surrounding region) has many, many other places to stock up on domestic and imported Italian cheeses, meats, and other products. But along with them, these stores are local, family-owned, and well-established in the area: aspects that should be appealing to those who object to Eataly on mass-consumerist and New York-transplant grounds.

The west loop, especially west of the Kennedy, is home to some of the city’s oldest Italian groceries. J.P. Graziano Grocery & Company (901 W Randolph), founded in 1937, is a staple grocery in the area, as well as a purveyor of spot-on Italian sandwiches that Yelpers rave about. One of our favorite Chicago food podcasts, Sky Full of Bacon, paid a visit to J.P. Graziano and its fourth-generation owner, Jim Graziano, as he talked about the store, its history, and of course cheese as he lovingly sliced into an unopened wheel of parmigiano-reggiano. Check out their film on vimeo about the experience.

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Cheeses, meats, and condiments stacked sky-high at Piatto Pronto.

On the north side, we recently discovered Piatto Pronto (5624 N Clark), a full service Italian deli and food purveyor whose wide assortment of Italian products is jam-packed into their small storefront. Close to our home base, we were thrilled to find high-quality prosciutto di parma, mozzarella di bufala, and a wide selection of panettone just in time for the holidays. It’s now become our go-to prosciutto and cheese shop in the city, both for its location and the high quality of its offerings.

Finally, we are going to recommend all Chicagoans who will spend the time to go downtown to Eataly and wait in line to spend the same amount of time, or even less, to head up I-94 over the Wisconsin border to Tenuta’s Italian Grocery and Delicatessen (3203 52nd Street, Kenosha, WI). Founded in 1950, Tenuta’s easily outshines the offering and variety of any other Italian store in Chicago. We regularly make trips to Kenosha to stock up – seemingly endless aisles of domestic and imported cheeses, meats, pastas, olive oils, spirits, and other goodies leave Tenuta’s unparalleled, and make it easily worth the trip. Our standard purchase includes spicy prosciutto di parma, some samples from their Italian olive selection, parmesan and mozarella cheeses, our favorite Sicilian olive oil, and interesting pasta varieties you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. To top it all off, have a house-made panini while you wait.

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Paul Ryan and ETW agree: Tenuta’s is amazing. (Photo: AP / Mary Altaffer).

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Jibaritos at Papa’s Cache Sabroso

Papa’s Cache Saboroso
2517 W Division St
Chicago, IL

Flag of Puerto RicoFlag_of_Chicago,_IllinoisFresh from a scintillating bomba performance (complete with vejigantes!) at the Puerto Rican Arts Alliance‘s “Loíza in Chicago,” we realized, as we so often do in this wonderful city of ours, that we have neglected on of its great culinary traditions. While Humboldt Park, the epicenter of Chicago’s thriving Puerto Rican community, possesses a large number of Puerto Rican restaurants and eateries, we had never before tried a jibarito, a sandwich (usually filled with beef or chicken) dressed with garlic-mayo between a “bun” of fried green plantains. The jibarito has one of those origin stories that sounds made-up, the common “I just decided to do this one day and then it took off” tale, but apparently this time it is true: in 1996, Juan C. Figueroa, proprietor of Borinquen Restaurant in Humboldt Park, invented the sandwich after being inspired by reading about a similar idea in a newspaper.

So where to go to get one of these delectable Chicago delicacies? La Plena? La Palma? To Borinquen, its origin? In time we will likely try all the jibaritos we can, but for now, we went with the recommendation of friends and ended up at a beloved hole-in-the-wall: Papa’s Cache Saboroso. With just a few tables, a brisk take-out service, and an ordering counter decorated like a beach food shack, Papa’s dispenses with any formalities to feature high-quality, tasty, and well-price Chicago-PR fare.

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L, of course, got the chicken breast jibarito. Marinated chicken breast, mayo dressing, tomatoes and lettuce, all featured on the signature fried green plantains, with a side of rice. We love fried plantains anyway, but we were surprised at just how well they work as a sandwich. Firm enough to hold everything together, they still provide a great flavor profile compliment to the rest of the meat and veggies that you just can’t get from regular bread, or really any kind of bread. Just great.

Meanwhile, M had a conundrum on this particular Saturday. Go with the jibarito – really, the reason we came – or go for broke and get the Saturdays-only special, the lechon asado, a seasoned roasted suckling pig that is one of the competitors for national dish of Puerto Rico (some mofongo-lovers may take offense). If there is one thing we have learned about M in this blog (besides the love of spicy food) it is that he will stop in his tracks if roasted or smoked pig is anywhere in the vicinity. As was the case here.???????????????????????????????

Lechon asado, like all great pig roasts, takes a while to make: the menu says “This dish takes so much love and attention you can only get it o Saturdays!” It may be true – a crispy, flavor-kicking crust on the outside and pull-apart meat on the inside. While this version was a tad on the dry side for our tastes, the sweet plantains and salad on the side provide a nice way to cut across all the flavors. Finish with beans and rice, and this is a great way to spend a Saturday.

While we loved our jibarito and will definitely be back, no need to not experiment further. If you’re having trouble making up your mind, Serious Eats Chicago may be able to help with their list of the Top 10 jibaritos in the city.

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Eataly Preview from Chicago Magazine

ItalyOn December 4, Italian food lovers from around the Midwest can rejoice when Mario Batali’s Italian food wonder-emporium, Eataly, finally opens its doors in Chicago. At 63,000 square feet, boasting eight restaurants and a live olive tree, it will be the largest in the United States (take that, New York!).

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Chicago Magazine, always up on the latest upscale food trends, has a great photo series offering a tantalizing behind-the-scenes preview. The prosciutto and cheese is enough to make us get in line right now – which apparently is not a bad idea, as the first weekend will likely be a madhouse (though queuers will get free gelato). Until then, enjoy the food porn!

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Tea Time at Spencer’s Jolly Posh Foods

Spencer’s Jolly Posh Foods [closed]
1405 W Irving Park Road
Chicago, IL 60613

united_kingdomIrelandWhile we are frequenters of Mexican, Haitian and Thai grocery stores, until this trip we had never visited a British / Irish grocery store in the United States. Selling everything from Dairy Milk chocolates to house-made British sausages and back bacon, Spencer’s can fulfill almost any British grocery craving. When we found out that this little grocery store also served high tea we knew we had to visit ASAP.

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Silver Star Portuguese Bakery in Providence

Silver Star Bakery
150 Ives St.
Providence, Rhode Island

Silver Star Bakery’s English name belies its specialty in all things Portuguese – after our visit we think it should probably be called Estrela de Prata instead. From our Pastry Post-Doc in Portugal we became very well-acquainted with the country’s extensive sweet heritage. As you know, we here at ETW are particularly obsessed with Pasteis de Nata (Portuguese egg custard tarts), and, sadly, there is absolutely no place to get them in Chicago. Fortunately, Providence has a large Portuguese population, with the bakeries to match. We figured we’d be able to find Pasteis de Nata at Silver Star, and there was indeed a large tray on display when we arrived, for only $1.75 a pop.

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We are pretty discerning about our pasteis, and have specific criteria for what makes one perfect, as we detailed in our rubric for the best pasteis in Lisbon. The version at Silver Star was excellent, and even surpassed some of the versions we had in Lisbon. The crust was flaky and crispy, not soggy at all; and the filling was light and creamy. The caramelization of the top was also perfect! These were the American pasteis we had been waiting for, and we even got to order in Portuguese. Now if only we could replicate them at home….

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But even though the Pasteis de Nata are the star, other Portuguese specialties available include Malasadas, Portuguese sweet rolls, fradinhos and more. There is also a wide selection of American treats including cookies, mini tarts and doughnuts. We also sampled a fradinho, a sweet tart with a bean filling dusted with powdered sugar, which was delicate and tasty. We visited Silver Star twice, once on our way to the Brown campus, and another time on our way to the airport (we absolutely had to get another round before we got home). If we lived in Providence we guarantee that the majority of our diet would consist of solely Silver Star pasteis.

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