Category Archives: Reviews

BBQ Tour: Mark’s Feed Store in Louisville

Mark’s Feed Store
1514 Bardstown Road
Louisville, KY 40205

The last leg of our BBQ tour was a stretch from Nashville to Chicago. We rolled into Louisville a little before lunchtime, and we were looking for something to tide us over before we hit Indiana. We had read good reviews about Mark’s Feed Store, and being unfamiliar with Kentucky, we decided to give it a try. The building that houses the restaurant did indeed formerly house a feed store, and is quite an interesting structure, with exposed rafters and a hand-painted sign on he weathered brick exterior.

Turns out Mark’s is a mini-chain in the Kentucky area. Mark’s slightly glossy and carefully appointed interior (think Fridays, but with BBQ) was a bit of a change of pace for us, and we were a little disappointed when we found out that they did not in fact smoke the meat in house. We decided to give the place a chance however, since we were facing 200 miles of nothing but fast food chains ahead. The confluence of motorcycles parked in the lot, gave us an additional glimmer of hope.
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The BBQ was Kentucky style, with a vinegar and tomato based sauce. The main protein in Kentucky BBQ pork, so we both ordered pulled pork sandwiches ($6.99) which came with a side of fries. The pork was tender, but a little dry. Fortunately the table was well stocked with sauce bottles, which we slathered onto our sandwiches (that’s where the roll of paper towels at the table also came in handy). In addition to the basic “red” tomato and vinegar-based BBQ sauce, there was also a spicy variety, and a half-mustard and half-tomato sauce. After Sweatman’s we weren’t impressed by the mustard sauce, but M, being a fan of hot foods enjoyed the spicy variety.

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Though in the end, this probably isn’t the most authentic place to get some que, we enjoyed our meal at Mark’s Feed Store. It would probably be a very good place to take guests or people who are not up for some of the more rustic joints we visited along the way. As we took our extra-big gulp of sweet tea on the road we bid our BBQ tour farewell. It was a great ride.

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Peruvian is the new Thai?

peruWe hope so! We are huge fans of Peruvian food – and are excited it is gaining a foothold across the USA. The New York Times has a piece about Peruvian food’s popularity in San Francisco. Fortunately we in Chicago are lucky enough to have a variety of Peruvian joints to choose from. We loved Rosa de Lima, and we have a review of Taste of Peru coming soon.

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BBQ Tour: Sweatman’s

Sweatman’s
1313 Gemini DR
Holly Hill, SC

We will readily admit that we really only found out about Sweatman’s because Anthony Bourdain told us to go there. But that doesn’t mean the trip was any less difficult – literally half an hour from anything, Sweatman’s BBQ lies at an almost un-findable intersection in backcountry South Carolina. Even if you manage to find the place, it is only open Fridays and Saturdays. We had to make a very special trip – an extra few hours of driving from Charleston – just to get there. And it was worth every minute.

SwtMSandwichSweatman’s makes its home in a large wooden cabin, attached to an equally large barbecue smoker. That fact should be a dead giveaway as to how the place operates: for two days each week, ten hours a day, Sweatman’s pumps out huge amounts of perfectly smoked pork – and only pork – drizzled with its famous mustard-based barbecue sauce (central South Carolina’s specialty). As a result, Sweatman’s can be packed during peak hours, with patrons coming from all over the state (much like us) for a generous BBQ helping. The service speeds this along: one dry-erase menu gives the limited options (sandwich or buffet, both pork and both with mustard sauce) to a fast-moving line of customers, whose orders are rung up on an aging cash register. L ordered a pork sandwich, M the buffet. For dessert, a cup of the famous banana pudding – described elsewhere as the “best 63 cents you can spend,” its creamy goodness definitely lived up to the hype.SwtMBPuddingAnd so did the barbecue. Generally, when one place receives almost universally positive reviews, as Sweatman’s does, you almost have to be skeptical. Were we being set up for disappointment? We hoped not – and decided to see if Sweatman’s famous pulled pork stood up to reviews. Suffice to say the lines are for a reason. The barbecued pork by itself, both for the buffet and the sandwich, was impressively lean and fresh. It managed to be filling without being heavy, and lean without being dry.

Sweatman’s mustard sauce is definitely different than our previous narrow perceptions of a BBQ sauce – it was shockingly bright yellow and packed a mouth-puckering mustard and vinegar punch.  The extra mustard sauce we picked up was probably not needed, but was definitely a welcome addition poured over the barbecue when we went back for (free!) second helpings. All washed down with a free cup of sweet tea, this was a South Carolina meal at its finest. Satiated and full after an hour of eating, we left the packed dining hall and walked to the carry-out entrance (equally packed with clients) to pick up some of the mustard sauce for the trip home. It stays good forever, and L and I are still using it bit by bit on chicken, pork, and whatever else strikes our fancy.

SwtMExterior

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Pan-African: Africa Harambee [Closed]


CameroonAfrica Harambee [Closed]
senegal1 7537 N Clark St.
Chicago, IL

We were foiled on our attempt to visit the Guinean restaurant on Howard, Le Conakry (The cook was on vacation), so we decided to hit up another African restaurant on Howard. We had been meaning to try Africa Harambee for a while, so it seemed like a natural choice. Walking by the restaurant, we peered into the windows, but the dining room appeared to be dark and abandoned. No one was in inside, despite a sign advertising that they were open. We pondered turning back for a moment, since a dead-empty restaurant a noon is a bad sign, but we figured we were there, so why not explore further.

Upon entering, the dining room itself had a slightly Nautical theme – one wonders what type of place was here before, coupled with  big screen TV blaring motocross races and a bar, it created a slightly incongruous ambiance. Appearance notwithstanding, the menu at Africa Harambee is Pan-African, with a special emphasis on Ethiopian food, as the owner is also connected to Ethiopian stalwart, Ethiopian Diamond. The choice of starches available with most entrees ran the gamut, too, with the availability of rice, Couscous, Injera, Chapathi (unleavened flatbread) or Ugali (cornmeal dough). We started off with a cup of Piquin pepper soup. The piquin comes from South Africa – also known as a Peppadew -and taste something like a slightly spicy red bell pepper. The flavor of the soup was good, if a little thin.
AHJollof
For a main course, M ordered the Jollof Rice – popular Senegalese dish that has spread throughout West Africa (the name Jollof comes from Wolof, the name of an African Empire). There are many regional variations, but AH’s Jollof rice had a green peppers, onion and tomato sauce seasoned with thyme, garlic and bay leaves (12.50). However, it was a bit mild for M’s taste. As sides, the alicha chickpeas and greens were good, but also a little bland. I ordered the Cameroon shrimp with Injera (13.50) which came in a slightly spicy peanut sauce. The sauce was delicious, but the shrimp came out whole, so it was a bit of a messy affair to de-shell the shrimps while covered in a thick sauce. However, the injera was a great help in sopping up the ensuing mess.

AHShrimp

Throughout the entire lunch, we were the only patrons in the restaurant, which lent a slightly sad air to the meal. The owner and an old lady sat at a table in the corner watching us silently and intently as we ate. But I guess the service was especially attentive as a result. Despite our meal at AH being a little awkward, we were generally satisfied. While it was no Ethiopian Diamond we couldn’t help but wonder why was it empty on a Saturday at noon. Were we missing some fatal flaw? It can’t be location – the other half of the building, Hophaus – an American Bar and Grill, was totally packed. Poor Africa Harambee. Perhaps you can help them out…

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BBQ Tour: Old Plantation BBQ

Old Plantation BBQ
1515 Dodson Ave
Chattanooga, TN

Old Plantation has all the makings of being a good place for BBQ – an off-the beaten path location, billowing smoke rising from the smoker and a crowd, even on off hours. We stopped at Old Plantation on our way back to Chicago, after breezing through Georgia. Old Plantation is located a bit off the beaten path from the city center of Chattanooga, but the tiny wooden building stands out due to its blue exterior.
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Inside, there isn’t much room for more than a counter to order at and a flattop stove. Lucky for us the line wasn’t too long, and neither was the wait. We took the time to peruse the menu, which included Pork or Beef shoulder sandwiches ($6.00) and even Barbecue nachos ($6.00) and hot dogs ($4.00). You could even order the Que by the pound, which speaks to its cult following. M and I shared a shared a pork shoulder platter ($9.00). However the awesome BBQmaster behind the counter gave us two rolls admonishing M to “not let her eat it all.” The platter came with two sides – a tangy housemade cole slaw and a heaping helping of baked beans.
OldPBBQThere was no seating available at the picnic tables outside, so we set off on the road, eventually stopping to eat at the UT-Chattanooga campus, which was nicely set up on a hill. We found a bench and dug into our platter. The BBQ was a tangy Memphis-style, with a nice kick of spice. t was thicker and richer than other sauces we had tried, and it was so good we ended up sopping every drop up with our bread. However, we were divided on the chopped pork. When they said chopped pork they meant it -everything comes right along with the meat: fat, cartilage and all. While I know that’s what one should expect from chopped pork, I had been spoiled by the lean pulled pork on the rest of the trip, though M did not seem to mind. One thing we regret though – was missing getting a bottle of BBQ sauce to take home with us.

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Venezuela: Papelón con limón

VenezuelaSome of the best known drinks of summer are the colorful Aguas Frescas from Mexico, However, here at ETW when the sun is shining we have a new favorite drink from Venezuela – Papelón con limón. It’s very simple to make – basically just limes and sugar – so think of it as a Venezuelan lemonade. What sets the drink apart however is the use of Papelón, hardened, unrefined sugarcane juice, available as piloncillo or panela in many Mexican grocery stores. Here’s a very simple recipe:

Papelón con limón

2 Cups of Papelón/Piloncillo/Panela
Juice of 4 limes
1 1/2 Liters of Water

Dissolve the sugar in warm water. Mix and serve chilled!

Lime Project by Yannick

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Easy-Bake Oven Redux

Rambling through the internet, I’ve recently found some great kawaii links. One-upping the childhood food mainstay the Easy-Bake Oven, Japanese company Bandai released Toy pot sticker maker. I never had an Easy-Bake oven as a kid – but I think the big kid in me wants one of these pot sticker makers. I guess I’m not the only nostalgic one, there is even an Easy-Bake oven knock-off that fits in a computer port.

p.s. As a bonus link from Japan – who could resist making bread with panda faces baked right in?

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A Quick Bite: Horchata Ice Cream

M and I are big fans of horchata, both the Spanish variety made from nuts and the Mexican version made from rice. The Chocolate Shoppe’s horchata ice cream is a riff on the Mexican version and is delicious on a hot sunny day. We approached the new flavor with some initial skepticism, but ended up really pleased – it had a pleasantly sweet rice milk base with a hint of cinnamon. For other internationally-inclined ice cream eaters, Chocolate Shoppe also offers a delightfully-rich Zanzibar chocolate flavor. We also like how they don’t take themselves to seriously – check out their nutritional information – for example.

Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream Cup by Afagen

If you can’t read the fine print: “Nutritional Information: Don’t even ask. This is the best ice cream made in Wisconsin, and it tastes so good because it has gobs of rich Wisconsin cream, tons of real ingredients for boat-loads of luscious flavors. That means it’s not low-fat, low-calorie or low-anything, and that’s why everyone loves it. You want nutrition, eat carrots.”

Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream
468 State St
Madison, WI

There are also stores in Illinois: Locations

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A Quick Bite: Kudu Coffee House [Closed]

Kudu Coffee House
4 Vanderhorst St.
Charleston, SC

Charleston is a beautiful city, almost freakishly so – it seems like every elegant building is perfectly preserved in time (okay, maybe this creeps us out just a little). Amidst the grandeur, we noticed a relative lack of independent coffee shops. However, Kudu coffee house, an African-themed coffeehouse is filling the void.  What really sets Kudu apart is its extensive selection of single-origin coffees from all over the continent: Cameroon, Ethiopia, Kenya, Malawi, Rwanda and Tanzania. A must-get is their signature Meru Mocha – a drink made from chocolate, mint, espresso and steamed milk. Kudu’s decor is bright and sunny, with African art pieces, flags and plants gracing the walls. Kudu also boasts a cool courtyard, and free wifi. Even on a hot summer day, the place was filled with groups of people puttering away on laptops.IMG_1271

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BBQ Tour: Zunzi’s South African eats

South Africa Flag Zunzi’s
108 E York St
Savannah, GA

Throughout our eating adventures we hadn’t yet come across a South African restaurant, so it serendipitous that we found Zunzi’s, a South African lunch spot in Savannah, whilst on our prolific BBQ tour. Zunzi’s is tucked into a cute brick building in a quiet street of Savannah (which is a pretty cute place full of cute brick buildings). Tired and sweaty traveler be forewarned, though, Zunzi’s is only a stand-up counter, so you have to take your food to go or eat it outside on the patio.

zunextInside, Zunzi’s is  barely bigger than a breadbox, though there is just enough room for the extensive menu to be written above the counter. The menu boasted a variety of South African-inspired favorites like a Boerewors sausage sandwich (5.95) and an assortment of salads and entrees, with a special section dedicated to vegetarian options. M ordered the Old Indian town Curry Curry Stew (7.50), influenced by the sizable South Asian population in South Africa, while I opted for the Conquistador Roast Chicken Sandwich (7.50), an admittedly more Americanized choice. When our food arrived we were absolutely shocked by the portions, each was big enough for 2 hungry eaters (and we were). Take a look at that curry!  M enjoyed the hearty pea, carrot and potato curry, though it might have been a little mild for his fire-breathing tastes. My chicken sandwich was basically the size of a whole baguette, as you can see below, and was completely overstuffed with fresh roasted chicken. I especially liked the 2 mystery dips on the side – one was a riff on a tangy thousand island, and other was a creamy garlic sauce.zunchik

Even though it was sweltering outside, we decided to rest our feet at the outside patio, which was decked out with rainbow umbrellas. We were joined by an array of lunching Savannah College of Art and Design summer school students, also enjoying some midday nosh. With the breeze, despite the Georgian heat, it made for a quite pleasant lunch al fresco. We can definitely understand who they attracted a bustling lunch crowd. The first question we were asked when we relayed our daytrip to Savannah was if we visited Paula Deen’s restaurant – well, we saw the building – but give us the gut-busting portions at Zunzi’s any day.zuncur

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BBQ Tour: Gullah Grub in the Sea Islands

GullahFlag-173x132Gullah Grub
877 Sea Island Parkway (Route. 21)
Saint Helena Island, SC

We spent one of our first days in SC visiting the Penn Center, a Gullah museum and research center dedicated to the African-American populations of the coastal lowcountry. The Gullah cultivated a unique culture with a distinct language, and of course a distinct cuisine, so we figured if we were in Gullah country we should definitely try some Gullah food.

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Gullah Grub is located in an old wooden house on a somewhat busy road, right before the turnoff that leads you further out to sea (and the Penn Center). There’s no AC, but the place managed to stay relatively cool, courtesy of overhead fans working double time. As we entered we were greeted to a cozy interior dotted with knickknacks and mismatched tables and chairs – reminiscent of the living room of a southern Grandma. Perhaps best of all, as soon as we sat down, a plate of free cornbread (and excellent cornbread at that) was plunked down in front of us. Both of us ordered Sweet Tea ($2) to accompany our lunches, which came served in Mason jars with unlimited refills.

GGBBQThe menu consisted of mainly Southern favorites. Fried chicken and BBQ ribs seemed to be popular choices, but the menu boasted some more unusual items as well, including a fried shark-n-shrimp dinner ($17.50). Sharks are not uncommon in these coastal parts, we suppose.  Not in the mood for shark, L ordered the BBQ Chicken ($8.50). It came with a side of potato salad and a generous slathering of red, vinegary Carolina -style sauce. Despite the heat, M was feeling the soup, and he asked our waiter if he would recommend either the gumbo or the She Crab Soup. He replied that “Well, they are both good, but the gumbo is healthier.” M therefore, made a beeline for the she-crab soup ($6 for a medium bowl/$9 for a large). True to our waiter’s word, the She Crab soup was creamy, filling and delicious.

We had heard that the service was especially slow, however, our meal moved along at a good pace, even with a big party table ordering right ahead of us. The vibe of our late lunch was laid back and friendly, the food was good and this was the only place we’ve ever actually had drinks out of jelly jars. Eating in the little wooden house, sipping on Sweet Tea, we felt completely transported.

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Friday Foodie Link: Food Architecture

EdARc[Via Inside Out Blog] There’s an awesome exhibit in Melbourne that bears mentioning – Edible Architecture – building models made out of food. It’s taking place as part of the State of Design festival in Australia. More photos are available at Mel Hot or Not.

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BBQ Tour: Hudson’s in Hilton Head

Hudson’s
1 Hudson Rd
Hilton Head Isle, SC

HudExRolling along on our roadtrip, we finally reached our destination – Hilton Head, South Carolina a resort town by the sea. And since Hilton Head is by the sea, there are no shortage of seafood joints of various stripes. Hudson’s is one such seafood joint, and it fits somewhere between a seaside clam shack and a Chili’s, if you can picture such a place. We arrived at Hudson’s with a group of 14 – and before being seated we hung around on the seaside patio, where a man with an acoustic guitar was playing Jimmy Buffet cover songs. Next to the outdoor patio, and flanking an outdoor bar,  was a gigantic pile of clamshells (below). So I guess you could say the place was a bit touristy. But as tourists, who are we to complain, especially as we were treated to a lovely sea-side sunset.

HudShellsThe interior of the restaurant continued the nautical theme, as did the menu, which was printed to look like a newspaper. We figured this place, if anywhere, was going to have some good seafood, so we decided to go all out and order nothing that could be found on land (a rule disobeyed by other members of the party – who were treated to some lackluster steaks). Before we ordered, several free baskets of hush puppies were placed on the table, which we quickly devoured. We started off with Seafood Gumbo ($4.25) and a Crab Cake (below, $10.99). Both appetizers were good, with the gumbo being pleasantly richer and spicier than expected. However, for 10.99 we expected the crab-cake to have less veggie filler and more crab. For our mains we ordered Broiled Shrimp ($17.50) and Stuffed Flounder ($20.99). both the shrimp and fish were obviously fresh, and were well cooked, but we found both to be too lightly seasoned. The little plastic cups of condiments were also a bit out of line with the price point.

CrabCakeHudOf our meal, the gumbo was a standout, as was the house-made Key Lime Pie ($6.50), which was a great way to finish the night. Service was actually very good, and it seemed that they had experienced their share of 10+ crowds before. The food was decent, but we found it all to be a bit overpriced. But in the end, the real reason you come to place like Hudson’s is not the haute cuisine.  As they say in real estate, location is key, and that is probably where Hudson’s shines the most. You’re paying a premium for the ocean views and the inimitable mountain of clamshells!

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Palestinian falafel in Chicago: Chickpea [closed]

PalestineChickpea
2018 W Chicago Ave
Chicago, IL

It’s not often that you enter a restaurant to find a wall entirely covered with Arabic versions of 1980s film posters. But, as you can see below, that’s exactly what you see when you walk into Chickpea, a cool Lebanese eatery in Ukrainian Village. Tucked into the corner is a pinball machine and colorful glass lanterns hang from the ornate tin ceiling. It’s a pretty cool space, and somehow manages to retain a vintage feel – even with airbrushed posters of Bruce Willis looming large.

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At Chickpea, you place your order at the counter, and grab a number. A cooler of international sodas like Vimta are available in a fridge next to the counter. The wait time was very quick, perhaps sped along by a few games of pinball. We started out with an order of Koosa ma Laban ($4), a dip made of yogurt, zucchini and mint. It came to the table with a basket of pita, which we utilized for dipping into the rest of our main courses. The Koosa ma Laban reminded us of the more familiar Indian dish raita, but with a chunkier texture. We gobbled up the dip, and it bears noting that we were particularly smitten with the plate it came on – an orange Moroccan-inspired plate from CB2.

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Back to the food…for an entree, L ordered the Falafel platter ($6). It came out on a bed of hummus, spiced with green chili sauce and cumin. They were not kidding by calling that green sauce ‘spicy’ – it was hot (hot enough for fire-breather M, even). For his entree, M ordered the Saturday special of the Palestinian national dish, Mussakhkhan ($12). Mussakhkhan is chicken roasted with sumac and pine nuts, served on a round of flatbread. We haven’t seen Mussakhkhan at any other middle eastern restaurants in town so it was a treat to try. It came loaded with perfectly caramelized onions that M especially liked. Chickpea really impressed us. It was quick cheap and tasty, and with free pinball. Whenever were in Ukrainian Village we will certainly be hitting this place up for some Nosh.cpint

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A Quick Bite: Pete’s Hamburger’s

Pete’s Hamburgers
118 W. Blackhawk
Prairie du Chien, WI
(Open Summer Weekends only)

PetesSktchLeft woefully without camera, over the weekend we had lunch at one of the type of hole-in-the-wall tasty gems that we at ETW love. Pete’s Hamburgers has been going strong for over 100 years, at roughly the same spot on the main thoroughfare in Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin. Pete’s keeps the menu simple – the only thing you can order is a hamburger (no cheese available) by each burger will only set you back 3 bucks even. The main option present is ordering the burgers ‘with’ or ‘without’ grilled onions.

Much like cheesesteak joints in Philly locals in the know simply order “with” or “without” (for Pete’s 100th they sold T-shirts saying “I’ll have mine with” or “I’ll have mine without”). A rapid turnover pace means, no matter the time of day, you are definitely getting a cooked-to-order burger, hot off the griddle. On a Saturday at 4PM we still had about a 10-minute wait. One burger was enough for L, but M went for two, which we enjoyed on a bench nearby. Pete’s minimalist burger-centric approach paid off – the burgers were great. We could understand what the  line was for – and why Pete’s has been in business for so long.

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Happy 4th of July!

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Drive-in Pizza at Pizza Palace in Knoxville

Pizza Palace
3132 E. Magnolia Avenue
Knoxville, TN

Our first day on the road we drove from Chicago to Knoxville. Even with an early start – that’s quite a trip, and we rolled into Knoxville at about 8PM on a Sunday night. Which meant that most places were dead closed! However, we remembered our recommendation to stop at the Pizza Palace, on the east side of Knoxville, so we gave it a try. Driving up to the restaurant feels like a time-warp. When you pull up to Pizza Palace you are immediately greeted by the frozen-in-time 1961 neon sign that has been there ever since the place opened.

PizzSignIt was kind of a surreal experience – ordering pizza from a drive-in restaurant on a creaky old phone, as the sun set on an eerily quiet stretch of road. When we arrived at 8, the place was teeming with cars, as you can see above. The restaurant seemed to be doing a brisk business with pizza orders, and it being called ‘pizza palace’ we thought we couldn’t go wrong with some pie. We ordered a medium half-cheese, half-pepperoni pie ($10.85). Despite looking primitive, the old phone system attached to a wooden box worked just fine. Pizza Palace makes Sonic look like something truly out of the space age. But that was all part of the experience. PizzOrder

We hear Pizza Palace is also famous for onion rings – 1/2 order is $2.75. For those not in the mood for pizza, the menu boasted other Italian favorites like veal parmesan and spaghetti. To our surprise, we only had to wait about 15 minutes for our piping hot pizza to arrive. An efficient carhop brought out the pie along with a bag of plates, napkins and utensils, which was perfect for us travelers. We weren’t equipped to eat a pizza in the car, so we hoofed it back to our hotel and back to the 21st century. The pizza itself was very good, though not that noteworthy, with a toothsome crust and a slightly sweet tomato sauce. Though we were not blown away by the eats, Pizza Palace was definitely worth it for the retro experience.PizzPalPie

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We’re Back!

Finally. More BBQ Goodness to come.
Stay tuned….

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South America: Farewell, Restaurant Magnus

800px-Flag_of_South_America.svg Restaurant Magnus
120 E Wilson
Madison, WI

IL00004On May 31, I walked up to the door of Restaurant Magnus in Madison, hoping to sample some of my favorites from its South American-inspired menu before the restaurant’s dramatic shift the next day (signaled by the Norwegian flag fluttering over the canopy). It was locked. An employee eating outside quickly walked up to me, saying – with a wide smile – that the restaurant was closed to the evening to prepare for their exciting new menu the next day. But all the dishes I wanted were on the old menu, and when Magnus got rid of them on June 1, both L and I were disappointed and frankly a little angry.

We’ve had great experiences at Magnus before – in fact, it is L’s official birthday place. The funky interior always got things rolling: live soft bossa nova or Spanish guitar music playing in the background formed a strange, but ultimately satisfying romance with deer antler chandeliers and brown leather seats. But as always, we come for the food. We start with an order of chimichurri ($3.00) paired with light and fluffy foccacia (the tomato-flavored was our favorite). The chimichurri was unlike any we had seen: parsley, red wine vinegar, coriander, and honey made for a creamy dip that was nothing short of the perfect appetizer.

IL00006For main dishes, we tended to migrate toward the ever-changing tapas menu, but there were some old favorites that kept bringing us back (and Magnus knew it, because they kept putting them on. The Peruvian bay scallop ceviche ($12) was an interesting take on an old classic, with diced scallops placed in a makeshift bowl of cucumber slices, garnished with minced mixed sweet peppers, avocado, and drizzled with mango-habanero (M’s favorite combo) vinaigrette. It was smaller than similarly priced ceviches but the inventiveness was worth it.

Same with the Cana de Oveja ($14). Spanish cheese in phyllo dough, garnished with figs (another of M’s favorites), pistachios (OK, so that was a bit confusing), sherry butter sauce, and habanero syrup. This is a dish we didn’t really know how to classify, most because the multitude of flavor options on any given bite always kept us guessing – and that is what made it good.

IL00007And then there was the Xinxim. Take a Brazilian staple and create the hell out of it, and you get Magnus’ Xinxim. It sounds simple enough on the menu: chorizo verde, blackened chicken, blackened beef all in a bowl, sitting in a special cream sauce of habanero and coconut milk and cashews. But this seemingly simple dish was, unquestionably, my favorite meal of all time. The coconut milk worked to take down the habanero’s heat enough to let its fruity tropical flavor beam through, and combined with the cashews, the effect was deliriously perfect. The chorizo was always spiced to perfection, and the chicken, beef, and shrimp provided a wide set of texture and flavor options that always worked in tandem with what I am sure will remain the best cream sauce I have ever eaten.

There were others, of course: cheese plates, small desserts, etc. too numerous to name here. But the bottom line is that they are all now gone. Replaced with cod, venison and the other staples of Norwegian cuisine that, to us, make obvious the reasons why no Scandinavian restaurant has ever really succeeded in this most Scandinavian of states. We understand the reason for the change, at least on a cultural level. The restaurant’s sous chef – of Norwegian descent – was promoted to the head spot (and there is a now a triumphant photo of him planting the Norwegian flag on the restaurant’s redesigned website). All the owners are Norwegian. The restaurant is even named for a Norwegian grandfather. But culinary, we can’t say this move makes any sense. IL00005Scandinavian restaurants have had a tough time of it in this country, and Wisconsin would seem like a logical place to start one if, well, Scandinavian food had ever succeeded here before.

The chimichurri is still on the menu, though hiked in price by a dollar and paired with rye bread instead of foccacia. Will we try the new menu? Probably. We got an email coupon for a free first course. But aquavit mussels and pickled cabbage not only sound less than appealing – they will never replace that xinxim. All we can say is they had better give us the recipe.

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Peru: Inka Heritage

peru Inka Heritage [Closed]
602 S Park Street
Madison, WI

First off, Inka Heritage gets major cultural awareness points for using Juan Velasco’s 1975 Quechua orthography that spells “Inka” with a K instead of a C (which is an Imperial Spanish spelling). Velasco wasn’t the best guy, but his transliterations were top-notch. Well done. Now on to the food.

We tend to review a fair amount of Peruvian restaurants, and with good reason – we feel that Peruvian cuisine is well on its way to competing with Thai food as a major player in the US food scene. Which is why we were so excited when Inka Heritage, the first Peruvian restaurant in the Madison city limits, opened in 2007. We have been back multiple times since our first visit shortly after the opening (when they could not make nearly half the items on their own menu) but are happy to report that the restaurant has grown into its own with great interpretations of all the classic Peruvian dishes, as well as the best lúcuma mousse we’ve found outside Peru.

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At most Peruvian restaurants, I have my set of usuals: anticuchos, an originally Afro-Peruvian dish of skewered, marinated pieces of beef heart with a side a ají, and ceviche pescado acid cooked in citrus juice and garnished with sweet potatoes and big corn (I still don’t know the proper name for it). L likes to get the aji de pollo, shredded chicken smothered in an aji cream sauce garnished with a hard-boiled egg and served with rice. And for dessert, we split the aforementioned lúcuma mousse; made from an Andean fruit rarely available outside of South America with a taste somewhere between sweet potatoes, maple syrup, and cashews. It is delectable.

CIMG1952 Inka Heritage does all these things, and does them well. The anticuchos are true to the original dish, using the best pieces of beef heart muscle (some other restaurants keep the anticuchos marinade but substitute white meat chicken for the beef hearts, which is not only inauthentic but culinary highway robbery) with a slightly spicy, tangy marinade that works well with the ají on the side. The ceviche too is solid, with the right citrus juice mixtures we’ve come to expect – though the very high onions to fish ratio, as well as the smaller serving size, makes us wonder why the price is higher than what we found at Rosa de Lima in Chicago. L’s aji de pollo is a failsafe dish, one we do not always see at other restaurants, and well worth it at Inka Heritage. The dish’s cream sauce is packed with interesting flavor combinations (“yellow pepper, garnished with roasted walnut, fresh parmesan cheese, botija black olive, boiled egg” says the menu) that are probably best suited to the shredded chicken, allowing all the flavors to surround each chicken piece. Mix in with the rice, and it is easily one of Inka Heritage’s best dishes.CIMG1954

The menu does, of course, offer a number of other options outside of our traditional favorites that are well worth sampling, particularly in the seafood department. Overall, Inka Heritage can run a bit on the pricy side (the average entrée is about $13), but the restaurant’s increasingly elegant ambience (considerably moreso now than when it opened) make it a great place for a classy night out with a group or date. Madison has a number of great dining options, but we try to get back as often as we can – especially to introduce friends to Peruvian cuisine who have not tried it before.

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