Portuguese Pastry Post-Doc: Cultura do Chá (Closed)

Cultura do Chá (Closed)
Rua do Norte, 31-33
Lisbon, Portugal

With our latest trip to Lisbon we figured out the way to truly enjoy ourselves is to go to cafes. One of the best and most inviting cafes we have encountered recently is Cultura do Chá (“Tea Culture”). Set back in a tiny alley in Chiado, Cultura do Chá is directly across from a giant bougainvillea tree – a red bicycle marks the entrance- you can’t miss it. Cultura do Chá is a small cafe, set in an old stone building covered with azulejos. This interior has stone walls and is full of nice antiques and artfully mismatched tables. Randomly, they also had the nicest bathrooms we have ever seen in a cafe – done with Asian inspired screens and even real towels. You really have to see it to understand.

After some initial confusion about the ordering process – find a seat? order at the counter? – we were directed to sit, on a lovely comfy couch, where we relaxingly perused a slate of Lisbon cultural magazines while waiting for the cafe’s lone server. The menu revealed the cafe’s focus on tea – you can get 30 varieties of tea, each for 1 or 2 people. We ordered a pot of tea for 2 (5€) of loose-leaf chocolate hazelnut tea. Kudos to presentation: cloth napkins, nice flatware, and a classy set of ceramic teapot and plates, which we not-so-secretly wanted to take home with us. We were also a fan of the cups: wide-brimmed and flat like a soup bowl, we actually found them very easy to manage and better at cooling the piping-hot tea so we could drink it sooner.

After tea, we looked at their small lunch menu of crepes, salads and sandwiches all for less than about 7 euros. L ordered the spinach quiche (4€) and M got a chicken sandwich (4€) with apple and balsamic vinegar (maybe some cinnamon, too?). Both came with a really nice and salad, simply dressed, but super-fresh. Both the quiche and the sandwich were larger than we expected for the price, and completely delicious.

To top off your meal, there are some delectable looking cakes in the window. Naturally, we partook in a large piece of chocolate cake, which came out in a surprisingly elegant presentation: house-made whip cream, and an artful swirl of chocolate sauce. Service was friendly, though at a leisurely pace, so prepare to savor your meal. Even at the somewhat late hour of 2 PM, the cafe was full of happy expats and Lisboetas alike enjoying a leisurely tea, and we agree that it seems like the perfect place for relaxation on a busy day. We will definitely be back: after all, we have 29 more varieties of tea to sample.

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Portuguese Pastry Post-Doc: Queque

Though we visited one of the nicest cupcake shops in Lisbon, we figured the concept of the cupcake was imported to Portugal. However, we found the indigenous Portuguese version of cupcakes: the queque. Alternately described as “cupcakes” or “muffins,” queques are little cakes, typically yellow sponge cake with a hint of citrus, though they may also be chocolate. The typical shape of a queque is also a little different than a conventional cupcake, with ruffled edges, as seen in this Portuguese recipe. We found a pack of mini chocolate queques in the supermarket and we were extremely excited – a taste of home. Here is a recipe for basic queques in both Portuguese and English.

Queque graffiti in Portugal – by Graffiti Land

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Naples Pizza Quest: Da Michele

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale, 1,
80139 Naples

We had a great time at I Decamuni, but our pizza quest could not stop there. We pushed forward to what we heard was the best (and busiest) pizzeria in Naples, Da Michele. It is also one of the most famous owing to a certain recent Hollywood movie appearance (we won’t mention which one) and simple word of mouth over the years since its opening in 1870. We heard that there would be lines snaking in front of Da Michele long before the 11 AM opening times, and that we should be prepared for hordes and hours of waiting. Steeled for a potentially harrowing experience, we arrived at Da Michele at 11 AM on a Monday, surprised to find only ONE other table filled. By the time we left, there were still a few tables open, and no line. So take the warnings with a grain of salt (at least in low tourist season, on a Monday).

Interior of Da Michele

We beat the crowds.

Da Michele is a simple place – the tables are spartan and the menus are taped to the wall. The menu at Da Michele is extremely limited – only 2 pizzas on offer:  Margherita and a Marinara. The marinara is simply marinara sauce and garlic. How’s that for simplicity? We ordered a Margherita with doppia (double) mozzarella (5€), which we figured was a good bet as well as a “normal sized” marinara pizza (4€). Each pizza came in either “normal” or “medium” sizes, and the Marinara also came in “maxi.” The doppia mozzarella Margherita did not have a size assigned – but we assume it is a normal size. Even at their smallest, the Da Michele pizzas are large enough to cover an entire dinner plate.

DaMichele pizza master

Da Michele pizza master at work.

So we placed our orders and sat in anticipation for the pizzas. One thing that is constantly impressive is the speed at which the pizzas fly out. Da Michele was a well-oiled machine, with an old gentleman at the pizza dough helm, quietly and meticulously forming and topping the pizzas. You could tell he had been doing this for decades. Our pizzas went into the roaring ovens and a few minutes later they were done. And what pizza! The crust was light and fluffy, but with some bite, and some nice char. Moreover, the crust held up well to all of the toppings. The cheese on the doppia pizza was generously applied and fresh as can be. We also heartily enjoyed the marinara pizza, which seemed to be more than the sum of its parts. The sauce on each pizza was fresh and tomato-y and not overly sweet   Warning: there are many cloves of garlic on the Marinara pizza, so this is one for garlic lovers only.

DaMichele mariana and margherita pizzas

The main event.

It seemed only minutes had passed between when we ordered and when we finished, although we did our best to savor each pizza. Could you eat a better meal for 9€?  L enjoyed the doppia mozzarella pizza the best out of all of the pizzas in Naples, especially owing to the heavenly crust quality, and while M enjoyed the pizzas at Da Michele, his heart went with the more exotic toppings at Decumani. We are already nostalgic for all of the great pizza we enjoyed in Naples. For the pizza purist, we highly recommend Da Michele, but if you want a little more topping variety (and less chance of a line) Decumani is a formidable choice.

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Japan and Taiwan: Honey Toast

Honey Toast from Sheng Kee Bakery in San Francisco by Jeffrey Chiang

I love learning about unique foods from around the world, especially if they are a little quirky. One of the quirkiest foods I have encountered recently is honey toast, a Japanese creation that has caught on in Taiwan, where the topping choices have become even more extravagant.  Honey toast is composed of a small loaf of hollowed out white bread,  the interior of the bread is cubed, toasted and stuffed back inside, and all is covered with a heaping helping of honey. Honey toast toppings may be a simple as ice cream, or may include fruit, syrups, or even something as decadent as macarons. Curious yet? A review of What8ver Cafe in British Columbia has a great description of honey toast. Or if you need a better visual, here is a video of Honey toast at Dazzling Café in Taipei being dissected. Making the honey toast does not seem terribly difficult, but definitely for carb lovers only.

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Portugal: Joshua’s Shoarma Grill

Joshua’s Shoarma Grill
Vasco de Gama Mall ( Various Locations in Lisbon)
Lisbon, Portugal

We finally made it up to the Parque das Nações in the North-East of Lisbon, home to the city’s superb Oceanarium (we highly recommend it). When approaching the Parque das Nações from the metro you will encounter the super-modern Vasco de Gama mall, which was appropriately decked out for the holidays. At the top of Vasco de Gama is a food court, with tapas, stir-fry, a Brazilian kilo restaurant and some Portuguese chains, including  Joshua’s Shoarma Grill. We actually read about this restaurant in our copy of Cozinhas do Mundo em Portugal (“World Cuisines in Portugal”), and we figured it would be a good stop on our quest for Middle Eastern food in the heart of bacalhau country. Joshua’s Shoarma Grill is a basic fast-food endeavor, with a selection of beef and chicken shewarma, falafel and some Mediterranean-inspired salads.

For about 7 euros apiece we each ordered a combo platter with a small drink and fries. True to type, M got the chicken pita and L got the falafel pita (we are creatures of habit). The funny thing about foreign fast food is that small fries and drink really does mean small (maybe 8 oz) – as opposed to an American “small soda” that is really 24 ounces. Very interesting. L enjoyed the falafel, though you can tell that they were not perhaps freshly cooked. M though his sandwich was way too greasy, unfortunately. The fries were a little limp and sad. A redeeming grace was the garlic sauce. Like Ali Baba Kebab, one of our recent finds, Joshua’s is a good place for a quick Middle Eastern fix. Overall L liked the falafel at Joshua’s better, but M decided Ali Baba Kebab was a better pick for carnivores. If you are in the vicinity of the Parque das Nações, prices tend to be a little inflated, so Joshua’s is a great pick for bargain hunters.

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Celebrating American Thanksgiving while Abroad

Happy Thanksgiving! Feliz Thanksgiving! This year we are spending Thanksgiving abroad in Lisbon, so we will have to miss out on the traditional feast. However, we are going to do the best we can in a country that isn’t too fond of turkey and with an oven that doesn’t exactly work. The Kitchn has tips to get back to basics and cook a simple Thanksgiving meal, which is what we will attempt. We know we will be buying a celebratory pie or tart, though (Do Pasteis de Nata count as miniature pies?)! As suggested by Farsickness, it is a good idea to check out celebrations in the area, but we are not really up for a Saturday night Thanksgiving at the Hard Rock Cafe, thus far the only option is Lisbon.  We are definitely not alone in our Thanksgiving saudade (nostalgia), Bon Appetit is also featuring stories of Americans celebrating Thanksgiving in Rome and Lebanon.

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Portugal: Ali Baba Kebab Haus

Ali Baba Kebab 
Rua Palma, just south of Martim Moniz Square
Lisbon

We love Middle Eastern food, so we were definitely excited to find a few options in Lisbon (more reviews to come). Walking down Martim Moniz square, M’s eye was immediately drawn to the döner spinning in the window. In the words of Ron Swanson, a character from one of our favorite shows, Parks and Recreation, “There’s a hot spinning cone of meat in that Greek restaurant next door. I don’t know what it is, but, I’d like to eat the whole thing.” That was pretty much our reaction upon seeing the Ali Baba Kebab Haus.

Unfortunately, we had just had dinner, so we vowed to return on another day. About a week later, before a night performance at the Dona Maria II National Theater in Rossio Square, we headed over to Ali Baba for a quick bite. When we arrived, the spot was filled with a fast-moving crowd composed of the local middle eastern community and a strong local/German tourist contingent (let us not forget the stunning popularity of döner kebabs in Germany).

Ali Baba serves Turkish food, and there are only three things on the menu: chicken döner, beef döner and falafel. You can get each filling option in a pita or a durum wrap, along with a side of salad or french fries. We each opted for a durum – M picked the chicken and L went with the falafel. All of these options are between only 3.5-6€. Once you pick your filling, you tell the sandwich maker what sorts of toppings you want, lettuce, tomatoes, onion, hot sauce (fantastic!) and garlic sauce (similarly awesome).

Fair warning – there are no tables, just a tiny stand-up counter in the very tiny store. No surprise, many people take the orders to go. M enjoyed his chicken döner, but found it a little greasy for his tastes. The Turkish-style falafel was tasty, and completely complemented by the garlic sauce. Though we had a little trouble eating the overstuffed durums at the stand-up counter you will definitely be hard-pressed to find a better cheap meal near Rossio Square.

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ETW’s 5th Anniversary Awards

Today is Eating the World’s 5th anniversary. We’ve come a long way  in 5 years. We got married. Visited Asia, Europe and South America. Took (2) roadtrips through the Southern USA. Lived Abroad in Brazil and Portugal. One of us got a PhD, and one of us is almost done. Most of all, we have eaten a LOT of food. As of today, we’ve eaten food from 88 different countries – not even half of the total. Between all the different culinary experiences it’s been hard to nail down some favorites, but we had to give it a shot. Here they are, the winners of ETW’s 5th Anniversary Awards:

Best Meal: NEXT Sicily, including the drinks, Chicago, Illinois.

Best Service: Coffee Cop, Bangkok, Thailand.

Best Dessert: Giolitti, Rome Italy.

Best Snack: Açaí bowl, Salvador, Brazil.

Best food-related appliance (tie)Bialetti and Molcajete.

Best ambiance  Confeitaria Colombo, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Best place worth the drive: Sweatman’s, Holly Hill, South Carolina.

Best Discovery: Yogurt and Honey, Greece.

Best Market: Ortigia Market, Siracusa, Italy (post coming soon).

Best Food City: Singapore.

Most fun overall experience: Getting snacks on a Brazilian beach.

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Pastry Post-Doc in Italy: Rum Baba – Babà from Naples

The Rum Babà is one of the iconic desserts of Naples. A Babà is a small yeast cake absolutely soaked in a Rum syrup. If made right, the cake should practically be swimming it it. So definitely not a treat for the faint of heart! Unlike Sfogliatelle, Babà are a French import (which was originally a riff off of babka cakes), and were transported to Naples by French chefs. Renowned chef Alain Ducasse even has a signature Rum Baba dessert (recipe here). But don’t tell a Neapolitan that! Even the most humble shop in Naples will have a little pile of these liquor-soaked brioche-esque goodies along with other cafe offerings. Typical Neapolitan Babà are shaped like popovers – and come in individual portions – though you can get fancy and make a Babà cake to serve many people. Babà are usually served plain, but as you can see below, you might also encounter mini or cream-filled varieties. For an even more Neapolitan experience – how about a Babà soaked in Limoncello?

Varieties of Rum Baba (and friends) in Naples

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New Orleans: Cochon Butcher

Cochon Butcher
930 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, LA

We are big fans of smaller, cheaper branches of upscale restaurants, (Xoco, etc.) since we like good food, but we like it even more when it is cheap. Cochon Butcher is the casual spinoff of more upscale spot Cochon, which has long been a darling of the NOLA foodie scene. It was made even more attractive of an option, being one of the few places in the Central Business District (CBD – where our hotel was) that was open on a Thursday night. The offerings at Cochon Butcher mostly consisted of small plates and sandwiches, though it is also a working deli and a bar as well (you can even see the meats curing right there on the wall). The Cochon Butcher sandwiches all featured the in-house charcuterie and the selection of sandwiches varies nightly. We can tell it’s a popular place, when we arrived at 8PM; some varieties had long been sold out.

Among the remaining options we opted for the Carolina BBQ pulled pork ($10), and the muffaletta ($12). So, one obvious choice and one more adventurous one. NOLA is not exactly known for its BBQ – though it has amazing food. However, we never miss the chance to try some good BBQ from a respectable southern restaurant. The pulled pork had a North Carolina style sauce, and was absolutely perfectly seasoned, right down to the pink smoke rings (yum). On the other hand, ordering a Muffaletta in New Orleans is a very obvious choice.  The Muffaletta – probably one of the most famous sandwiches in New Orleans – was piled high with deli cuts on a large focaccia roll with olive relish. Though not perhaps as famous as Central Grocery’s, Cochon Butcher made an amazing Muffaletta, with their homemade charcuterie and olive spread.

We finished off the meal with something else that we cannot pass up at a good Southern restaurant – a bowl of Mac & Cheese ($6). This variety came with a helping of Pancetta. M is much more of a fan of Pancetta than L – so she was a bit wary to try this offering – however we were both pleasantly surprised. – the highlight of all of the dishes was probably the Mac & Cheese. It was extremely decadent and not overpowered by the Pancetta at all. For the price, Cochon Butcher has amazing quality, and for a bit more of an expense-account dinner we’d love to try Cochon.

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A Quick Bite at: Republic

Republic
37 Union Square West
New York, NY

As they say, in restaurants as in real estate, location, location, location. Republic, a fast-casual spots serving Pan-Asian cuisine, is in an absolutely great location, right across from Union Square in New York City, and that holds much of its appeal. The restaurant is a large and somewhat cavernous, with quasi-communal seats (the tables are connected, but you are not sitting directly next to strangers, unless you are only a group of 2 perhaps). The atmosphere was loud and bustling, and the restaurant seemed to be doing a pretty healthy turnover of tables. We arrived at noon Sunday and the tables were nearly full with the NYU crowd, even so, we didn’t have to wait very long. Republic incorporates its sleek noodle theme into its decor, and the walls are lined with large black and white photos of model-types enjoying (and sometimes wearing) giant piles of noodles.

Yes, the stock in trade at Republic is noodles, namely GIANT bowls of noodles, which we saw most tables guzzling happily. The main influence is Thai, but there are also Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese flavors. The broth noodles, seemingly the most popular option, had huge portions in included such varieties as Spicy Duck and Curry Vegetable ($11-14). There was also a selection of non-broth noodle and rice dishes, including of course Pad Thai. The globe-trotting theme continues with the drink selection which includes both hot and cold sake, an assortment of Asian Beers and Vietnamese iced coffee. Between two of  us we ordered the Spicy Coconut Chicken – rice noodles in turmeric-coconut broth ($14). The portion was truly generous, but the broth and chicken were both a little bland and lifeless. However, we heartily enjoyed the vegetarian dumplings ($7) and the super-flavorful cold Peanut Noodle Salad with carrots and jicama ($11).

While Republic is not a soulful place, you can’t fault the owners for hitting upon a formula that works. Moreover  you definitely get a lot of food for your money, and there is something to please herbivores and carnivores alike. It won’t rival our favorite go-to Thai places, but it was a perfect place to meet a group for lunch in NYC. Plus, if you are in a lunch crunch, you will be sure to make your 1 o’clock meeting.

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Eating the World is on Pinterest

We’ve been pinned! We see food and travel goodies everyday on Pinterest, so we figured we’d join in on the fun. Follow us at Eating the World on Pinterest for the latest in globetrotting food adventures.

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France: A Tour of Rue Montorgueil-Les Halles

L’Escargot on Rue Montorgueil by straightfromthecask

There is nothing we love more than touring cities in search  of food and food shops, so we were very excited to see David Lebovitz’ description of a tour down Rue Montorgueil-Les Halles in Paris. It seems like an amazing, concentrated taste of the food culture Paris has to offer (not that there is any shortage of that). Food for thought for anyone planning a Paris trip.

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Portuguese Pastry Post-Doc: The Azores, Portugal’s Dairyland

It was surprising to see so many dairy products in Portugal with origins in the Azores (Os Açores), a small Portuguese archipelago located 900 miles from Lisbon in the Atlantic ocean. At first we thought that seemed terribly exotic – but it turns out that much of Portugal’s dairy comes from the Azores. Dairy production is the biggest industry in the Azores, and the archipelago is particularly verdant (see below). Azorean Immigrants also brought their dairy culture with them when they traveled to their new homes. One such area, Marin County in California, owes much of its dairy heritage to the Azores: “As late as the 1940s, there was a saying that a traveler from the Golden Gate to Petaluma would never be out of site of a Portuguese dairy.”

Dairy Pastures in São Miguel, Azores – by Tim Sackton

In our stay in Lisbon we have sampled Azorean milk, cheese and butter. Azorean butter is bright yellow – much brighter yellow than typical butter in the US – the color is due to lots of Beta Carotene from the fresh green grazing grass in the Azores. We just had some salted Azorean butter and even when spread on simple crackers you can tell the difference. The Azores are also known for the quality of their cheeses, and there are several cheeses with DOP protection, including São Jorge and Pico. So go figure, despite being smack dab in the middle of the Atlantic, the Azores are the Wisconsin of Portugal!

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Diwali Mithai: Celebrating the Festival of Lights with sweet treats

India FlagHappy Diwali! It is the first day of the Hindu Festival of Lights today, which mean a time for family, togetherness, celebration, and naturally lots and lots of delicious foods. Foods eaten on Diwali vary widely by location and family, however it is generally agreed that there should be a large assortment of sweet treats. Of course, we are absolutely for any excuse to put out a huge dessert spread. As part of the Diwali celebration, street fairs, or melas, are often set up, providing entertainment and selling any manner of delicious foods. The little sweets are known as mithai, and are:

 a cross between snack, dessert and confectionery. If there’s one thing that captures the Indian culinary psyche, it’s mithai. Little morsels are nibbled throughout the day, on their own, with masala chai or as part of a meal alongside savoury items.”

If you are not near a Diwali market, or would simply like to prepare some mithai of your own, the Guardian has a slideshow of some of the most quintessential Diwali sweets to inspire you. For those looking to make their own mithai, I Love India, SpicyTastyRak’s Kitchen and Divya’s Cookbook have recipes for favorites like gulab jamun, laddu, barfi and jalebi. For a non-traditional take, why not make some truffles inspired by the traditional barfi sweets.

Diwali Market Sweets in Toronto by Chow Yun-Slim

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Italy: La Taverna dei Sapori – Mariella’s Brunch

La Taverna dei Sapori – aka Mariella’s
Corso Garibaldi,215
Monte di Procida (Naples), Italy

Sunday brunch is not a traditional occurrence in Italy since the typical Italian breakfast usually consists of coffee and a pastry (which is really our normal breakfast as well). However, a very smart proprietress, Mariella Fratelli (the restaurant is usually just known by patrons as “Mariella’s”), decided to capitalize on the brunch nostalgia of American expats and started a Sunday brunch of her own in the Naples area. She definitely has done something right: Mariella’s has gained a major following among expats hankering for brunch. However this is not a replica of an American bunch, but rather an Italian-style brunch! The brunch was all-you-can-eat for 12€, and we definitely got our money’s worth of Italian comfort foods.

We were the first to arrive, so we had the pick of the tables. Being a few days before Halloween  we were surprised and pleased to see the place decked out in orange and black. One thing we greatly enjoyed was that the food was all prepared in a normal fashion on plates, with new plates being constantly supplied. None of that steam-table business – which is good because we normally hate warmed-over brunch buffets. The spread was quite impressive with veggies, cakes, fritattas, and cheeses. There were no less than five fritattas on offer, with a variety of cheese, vegetable and meat fillings (and even a fritatta full of spaghetti). We gravitated instantly to the fresh mozzarella di bufala and the fresh ricotta.  We were also impressed by the large array of fresh roasted vegetables – including peppers and eggplant – not necessarily what you think of for brunch, but completely delicious and healthy.

We also appreciated the chocolate and fruit tarts on offer, including the chocolatey Torta Caprese. We remember eating a slice of Torta Caprese for breakfast everyday when we were in Siracusa. Perhaps not the most well-rounded breakfast, but oh so good! There were also a few nods to American tastes, with muffins, fruit yogurts and brownies.  For drinks, there was also a jug of fresh blood orange juice and cappuccinos were also on offer. As the brunch wore on, the place gradually became filled with Americans. We definitely enjoyed our little Italian brunch, and kudos to Mariella for hitting on a concept that works!

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Finer Things Club: (Re)Discovering Yoku Moku Cookies

I finally put a name to a food memory of buttery cookies I had many years ago – Yoku Moku cookies. I remember eating these cookies a long time ago and being very impressed by both the taste and the presentation, I think my dad brought them home from work, and I still have the distinctive blue tin. However, I didn’t know what they were called until I ran across a picture of the very same tin online (the style seems unchanged over the years). The Japanese company Yoku Moku got its unique name from the northern Swedish city of Jokkmokk, where the founder, Noriichi Fujinawa first tried European butter cookies. That first encounter was the impetus for the creation of Yoku Moku (and the towns’ name was adopted for the company). The most famous Yoku Moku cookies, and the ones I remember were the  Cigares, rolled thin butter cookies with a hint of vanilla flavor. Yoku Moku also makes larger tins with other cookie assortments. Though primarily available in Japan, the cookie tins are available at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Dean & Deluca in the US.

Yoku Moku Cookies

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An Afternoon “Fika”: A Sweet Swedish Coffee-break

We love daily snack rituals, and we just learned of Sweden’s tradition of Fika. Fika is analogous to British teatime, though a Swedish Fika usually comprises of coffee and a sweet snack. Apparently Fika is so ingrained in Swedish psyche that it has become both a noun and a verb (“do you want to Fika?”), and is a daily ritual honored by both young and old.  Fikabröd (“fika bread”) is the name for the sweet snacks (cookies, tarts, breads, cakes, etc.) that are part of a Fika, and there are sometimes even Fika buffets with a variety of sweet treats. If you are looking for an authentic Fika, and you happen to be in the NYC area, you can visit the aptly-named Fika Coffee Shop.

Afternoon Fika by Elisabet.S

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Pastry Post Doc: Torrone dei Morti in Naples

The arrival of torrone, the delicious honey and nougat confection, means the holiday season is coming in Spain and Italy. We have had torrone many times before, but we have never seen the kind of torrone we recently encountered in Naples, which was sold by the slice, covered in chocolate, and at first glance, even looked like ice cream cake. Turns out this is “Torrone dei Morti” or “Torrone morbido”- “dead torrone” which is a traditional All Saints’ Day dessert with a base of cocoa. Neapolitan pastry shops were filled with this version of torrone at the end of October, in any number of nut, chocolate and fruit varieties. Our favorite was the gianduja, or hazelnut and chocolate blend, as seen below. Getting a slice of torrone will run you less than 1€ a slice, so you have every incentive to try many varieties. When we were in Naples we didn’t realize that this version of torrone was season-specific, so we don’t know if it will be on display at other times of the year. We hope it is! We looked for a recipe in English – and we finally found one – but Google Translate can help you out with some of the Italian versions.

Cross-Section of Gianduja Torrone in Napoli

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Naples Pizza Quest: I Decumani

Antica Pizzeria “I Decumani”
Via Tribunali 58
Naples, Italy

We came to Naples for its pizza, plain and simple. US places claiming authentic Neapolitan pizza are a dime a dozen, so we were extremely excited to try the real deal where it originated.  In America, Neapolitan pizza is usually a pretty fancy affair, with each pizza costing upwards of $18. However not so in Naples. Pizza is literally everywhere, and pizza even in the best spots will not run you more than 7€ (less than $10). Naturally, we did our research beforehand so we would only end up at the top locations.

Locals who know where to get a good pizza in Napoli.

One spot that kept pinging our radar was Decumani. Decumani is located on Via Tribunali, in the heart of historic Napoli. If you find yourself strolling down Tribunali, you really cannot go wrong: there are several famous pizzerias on this road, so after some initial indecision we decided to use our old rule of thumb: go to the crowded place. Arriving at 2 PM, usually a little late for the lunch crowd, the place was still hopping, and after a few minutes of awkward waiting in the corner, we were lucky enough to secure a seat. The menu is surprisingly extensive for a Neapolitan pizzeria: a wide variety of pizzas and fried appetizers, but we were floored by the prices. A classic Margherita pizza with basil and fresh mozzarella? 3.50€. Want to splurge and get some more adventurous toppings? It’s impossible to spend more than 7€ on a whole pie, with most pizzas under 5. The prices were so surprising to some, in fact, that one patron actually argued that his bill was – at 70€ for feeding his entire group of 10 people – too low. This is a very good problem to have.

Margherita Pizza. The best $5 you will ever spend.

We know what you’re thinking: so cheap, they must be small. Never mind that the high prices in the US come from the import taxes on importing your bufala and tomatoes from the shady side of Mount Vesuvius – the local places here save considerably by being able to practically walk the ingredients to the kitchen. No, these are not small pies, as you can see above. But they’re also not overpowering or too filling. The crust is thin but supportive, perfectly chewy while acting as a place for the blended marinara, bufala, and basil on top. The sauce is fresh and tastes like actual tomatoes: not to sweet, not too salty, and oh so good. The mozzarella is excellent, and as you can see generously applied. M, keeping up his love of cured pig meats and spicy food, decided to go for another classic pizza, the Diavola – essentially a margherita topped with spicy salame (4.50€.)

Close-up of the spicy cheese tomato-y goodness.

Together, L and M sat in I Decumani for about an hour, slowly savoring every bite of our pizzas. M very carefully paid special attention to his salame: cooked to perfection, it was the perfect complement (for him, anyway) to the margherita L was devouring across the table. All in all, for the unbelievable price of 11€, we were totally blown away by our Naples pizza experience. We’ll never be able to have Neapolitan pizza in the US again. But Chicago deep dish, we still love you!

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