Portuguese Pastry Post-Doc: Pão de Deus

The pastries in Portugal are often  quite uniquely – almost poetically – named. Case in point – Pão de Deus – God’s bread.  Many of Portugal’s most iconic pastries originated in convents many centuries ago, perhaps accounting for the recurring religious allusions in pastry names. In appearance, Pão de Deus is somewhat more humble of a creation than its name implies. It is a sweet brioche roll with a topping of coconut and a shower of powdered sugar.  The coconut develops a gooey almost macaroon-like texture beneath the surface, and is pleasantly crispy on top. As seen below, the Pão de Deus we sampled from Pastelaria Versailles (review coming soon) came with a healthy slather of butter, and if you are feeling especially hungry you might even include some ham and cheese! Pão de Deus is a typical breakfast all across Portugal, though it is not very well known outside of the country. Home Gourmets has a recipe for Pão de Deus if you are feeling nostalgic for some Portuguese patisserie, or are looking to try it for the first time.

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Portuguese Pastry Post-Doc

So ETW world HQ has been moved to Portugal for two more months, our second extended visit in the past year. The first time around, while we enjoyed the food, we were not blown away by Portuguese cuisine. However, we vowed to make our second visit more of a culinary success. In the first week alone, we have improved our food fortunes immensely by simply doing one thing: focusing on the pastries! Portugal is known for its pastries, many of which are found in elegant historical pastelarias or confeitarias. It all seems so simple in retrospect – the Portuguese are renowned for their varied pastries, cookies and cakes, many of which are impossibly rich and laden with eggs, butter and sugar – so why not focus on them? While I have written about Pasteis de Nata, the most iconic Portuguese pastry, Portugal has so much more to offer in the way of sweet treats. Since I (L) have recently finished my PhD, I am using these next two months as some much needed relaxation time. However, I can’t quite give up my researching ways, so I will be dedicating my research skills to Portuguese pastries. I call this new project my “Post-Doc in Portuguese Pastries,” and I promise I will leave no stone un-turned in my quest for the tastiest, most classic, most beautiful and iconic Portuguese desserts.

Pastries and Cookies at Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon

Pastries and Cookies at Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon

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Chocolates + Macarons = Les Macarolats

We spent a wonderful weekend in Paris last December with our friends T & I, where we determined the best macarons in Paris. Though our international paths are nearly missing each other again, we were lucky enough to see them before we left for Portugal. We were so grateful and surprised when they gave us Macarolats from Michel Cluizel as a going-away present, and it was a wonderful reminder of our time in Paris. So you’re probably thinking, “What on earth is a Macrolat?” It is basically a filled chocolate in the shape of the iconic macaron.

The flavors included in our box of 5 Macrolats were: Dark chocolate ganache, Caramel ganache, Coffee ganache, and Crunchy hazelnut praline. All of the flavors were absolutely delicious! Our favorites were the caramel and hazelnut varieties, which were impossibly rich. What’s more, Macrolats are more transportable than the delicate Macarons (they made the journey across the Atlantic unscathed) – practical and delicious!

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Sukiyabashi Jiro: The $20-a-Minute Meal

Recently, I posted about the wonderful documentary film about sushi expert Jiro Ono, Jiro Dreams of Sushi. Via Kottke.org I found an account of A Life Worth Eating’s recent visit to Jiro’s restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro, where the entire meal lasted a mere 19 minutes, with a tab of $380. You can check out the entire stunning meal on Flickr.

A scene from Sukiyabashi Jiro

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World Cuisines in Portugal: A Guidebook for International Foodies

On our first full day in Lisbon, after acquiring our monthly metro passes we decided to head downtown and reacquaint ourselves with Lisbon.  Surprisingly, we pretty much remembered our way around, and sampled a few Pasteis de Nata as we headed toward the Tagus River. Unfortunately, it started to drizzle unexpectedly ( and counter to weather reports) so we ducked into Betrand Livreiros, a bookstore in the Chiado neighborhood, to avoid the rain. Naturally, as we waited out the weather, we starting browsing for books. There was a pretty healthy culinary section with a bunch of global cookbooks – but one in particular caught our eye: Cozinhas do Mundo em Portugal (World Cuisines in Portugal). However, this was not a cookbook, but a guidebook! Along with descriptive information about various cuisines, typical ingredients and meal structure, the book listed restaurants in Portugal that specialized in each cuisine. While the book covered all of Portugal, there are many restaurants in Lisbon. Cuisines from Asia, Europe and Africa are represented, from obvious choices like Japan and Italy to the more esoteric Guinea Bissau and Luxembourg. There are even a few Irish pubs and American restaurants listed. We just couldn’t pass up this cool book, and it is now part of our growing travel book library in Lisbon. It is already littered with sticky tabs and we are well on our way to checking a few more countries off of the list.

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ETW em Lisboa (ETW in Lisbon)!

ETW is in Lisbon until the Christmas season – and we are both excited to continue our European food adventures. Now that I am done with school, I have more free time, so expect some more regular posting. We’ve been having some great eating adventures in Chicago recently (particularly Brazilian ones), and even took a brief jaunt to New York City, so expect some reports. Here in Lisbon, we’ve already been on our first grocery run and got our first batch of Pastéis de Nata, though we are excited to revisit Pastéis de Belém in the near future.  Stay tuned!

We have missed you, little Pastel!

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Japan: Jiro Dreams of Sushi

We recently watched the documentary, Jiro Dreams of Sushiabout Jiro Ono, a dedicated Japanese Sushi chef that has earned three Michelin stars for his tiny restaurant  Sukiyabashi Jiro in a Tokyo subway station. Jiro was the first sushi chef to ever receive 3 Michelin stars and it is clear that his life is completely dedicated to perfecting his craft. The movie is beautiful and engrossing, and I guarantee you will have a newfound respect for sushi. Anthony Bourdain has stated that it is his favorite sushi experience, and we agree that the tasting menu looks amazing.

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Vietnam: Nhu Lan

Nhu Lan
2612 West Lawrence Avenue
Chicago, IL

It’s been a while since we wrote a review, so we figured we’d update you on one of our ongoing quests: the search for the best banh mi in Chicago. Much like pizza places and hotdog joints, everyone in Chicago has a favorite bahn mi place. “Banh mi” is the Vietnamese name for airy baguette-like bread, and is also synonymous with the iconic sandwich with meat and pickled veggies. Previously, our favorite stalwart was Ba Le – the combination of location, price and quality couldn’t be beat. However, Nhu Lan has been on our radar for a while and is frequently named as the top bahn mi spot in the city, so we had to try it.

High-tech digital menus at Nhu Lan!

There are now two locations of Nhu Lan, but we visited the original location on Lawrence. Though Nhu Lan is mainly a walk-up counter, there are also a nice array of baked goods, smoothies and takeout items (including takeout drinks with colorful characters, as seen below). Much like many of the other banh mi places in town, Nhu Lan presents all of its banh mi options on a large menu, and it also features a buy-5-get-1-free deal. The prices are all below $5 for a sandwich, a typical bahn mi steal. Though we took our sandwiches to go, there is a small sitting area inside.

Roast pork banh mi – with a generous helping of cilantro.

The selection of sandwiches contains all of what you would usually expect, but there are also a few more unique items like a vegan lemongrass tofu banh mi. We ordered the roast pork, the shredded pork and our go-to, the lemongrass chicken. The lemongrass chicken was well-seasoned but a little fatty. We were warned against the shredded pork by the server because she said “Americans don’t usually like it,” and we have to admit the little julienned strips of skin were not our favorite. The roast pork however, was excellent. We also appreciated the full cucumber spear, the light pickled daikon and carrot slaw and the generous helping of cilantro. Nhu Lan also bakes its own bread and you can buy the delightfully fresh baguettes right in store (check out the rack of bread in the photo above).

Thanks, we did!

So how did Nhu Lan stack up in the banh mi battle? The bread at Nhu Lan was a hands-down winner, but we slightly prefered the meat fillings at Ba Le. On the other hand we liked the cucumber spear at Nhu Lan and the fact that they didn’t use any mayonnaise. We also appreciated the cases of smoothies, salads and desserts, as well as the wide variety of baked goods and dessert items. While we can see why Nhu Lan is a favorite, we’ll probably stick to the more convenient Ba Le.

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The Red Bees of Brooklyn

Red Honeycomb from the Red Bees of Brooklyn

Typically bees make honey from the nectar of flowers, but apparently sometimes they develop a taste for some stranger foods. Enter the red bees of Brooklyn. Some beekeepers in Brooklyn caught notice of the unusual bright red color of the bees and their honey, and sought to figure out just what the bees were consuming. As it turns out, instead of dining on the usual feast of clover and other wildflowers, these bees were eating high fructose corn syrup and red dye runoff from a nearby maraschino cherry factory. Though bright red honey is pretty cool, it is not exactly a match made in heaven, with both the beekeepers and the cherry factory not quite sure what the next step is. We love trying different varieties of honey, and we’d be curious to taste some red honey – for the first time today we even tried pumpkin honey – however, we have to report that it doesn’t taste anything like pumpkins!

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El Bulli’s Ferran Adrià on the Cover of Wired

El Bulli’s Ferran Adrià is known for his mind-bending molecular gastronomy, so it’s no surpise that ths creative and innovative mind is featured in Wired Magazine UK – he is also giving a keynote at the 2012 “Wired Event” in London. For those lucky enough to be in Boston, Adrià will be giving a lecture on October 3rd.

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The Mystery of Sweden’s Green Princess Cake: Prinsesstårta

A Princess cake in Stockholm, by Peter Sunna

One of the most striking cakes we have ever seen is the Swedish Prinsesstårta, or “Princess cake.”  It is called a princess cake because it was said to be a favorite of the daughters of Prince Carl, Duke of Västergötland – princesses Margaretha, Märtha and Astrid. Since its creation in the 1930s, it has been popular for special occasions in Sweden. This festive cake is covered in green marzipan, one of the rare sweets to have green as its principal color. CakeSpy did a wonderful post researching why the princess cake is green (unfortunately the answer is still unknown). The cake, while beautiful, seems fairly labor intensive. Just take a look at the cross section on the Baking Obsession site for a better idea – the components are layers of genoise cake, jam, and buttercream, all covered by a dome of whipped cream and the distinctive marzipan. If you are feeling up to the task War and Yeast and have great step-by-step recipes. We think we will stick to getting the cake from the experts, Swedish Bakery (5348 N. Clark, Chicago).

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Finding Spiciness in Havana

Ojacy Curbello and her husband Cedric Fernando, co-owners of Bollywood restaurant in Havana (via Reuters)

NPR’s food blog, The Salt, has a fascinating profile on Cedric Fernando, co-owner of Cuba’s only Indian restaurant. The mission of his restaurant, Bollywood, is to take down the following (quite frequent) question: “Why doesn’t Cuba have any good spicy restaurants?” A Briton of Sri Lankan descent now transplanted to Havana, Fernando seems to be giving the city’s culinary scene just the spicy jolt it needed. Bollywood, which opened last December to exactly zero customers, has taken off as of late. Us visiting won’t do much to change the clientele, apparently – the restaurant seems to cater mostly to foreigners living in Havana and tourists – but hopefully locals will develop a taste for some of the heat that, in our opinion, is all too lacking in Cuban cuisine!

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Brazil: Suco de Clorofila (Chlorophyll Juice)

The rundown of juices available at the trifecta of Açai bars in Farrol de Barra in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil is mind boggling. However, most of the fruits in question were something we had heard of – Jackfruit, Apple, Mango, Passionfruit, etc. However, one of the juice choices stood out as something utterly bizarre and untranslatable – Clorofila. Yes, that’s Portuguese for Chlorophyll. We were completely intrigued by the idea of ordering chlorophyll juice so one day we decided we had to try it. True to name, the juice was shockingly bright green – but the taste was something completely bizarre. It tasted like a mix of bubblegum, mint, green apple and pineapple. L likened it to the fluoride foam they used to put on your teeth when you went to the dentist as a kid (remember that?). While not disgusting, I don’t think we’ll ever order it again. Unfortunately we neither turned green nor started processing sunlight into energy. We also remain skeptical – was that really chlorophyll (even if it was just used as a colorant), or just a mix of juices that are green? Our hunch is towards the latter option. So, will we ever unravel the mystery of the clorofila drink? Can you help us?

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Turkey: Dining Under the Galata Bridge in Istanbul

Some destinations have “must-do” experiences, visiting the Eiffel Tower, the Golden Gate Bridge, etc., but our favorite requisites tend to be food-related. One quintessential Turkish dining experience is enjoying a meal under the Galata Bridge that spans the Golden Horn in Istanbul. In terms of natural and architectural beauty, Istanbul is a grand city, and the Bosphorus plays a huge part in its history and the landscape. Though we found plenty of awesome cheap food in Istanbul, you can hardly beat the panoramic setting of the Galata bridge. It’s also the perfect place to take in some of the city and its people. The bridge is always bustling, full of pedestrians and fishermen. If you’re craving a Galata dining experience, there are two ways you can go, dining under the bridge itself, or dining on the neon-bedecked fishing boats docked on the Eminonu side of the river.

We chose to eat underneath the bridge, (partially because we ended up on the side of the river opposite of the neon boats). There we found a range of eateries serving seafood, from dirt cheap to more expensive, packing in both crowds of tourists and locals. The cuisine is not the draw though, the views are. We found a restaurant serving simple fish sandwiches for 5 Lire and a particularly potent Turkish coffee. Next time around we would love to try the neon fish boats, which were literally jumping and rollicking and blasting music as the sun set.

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Cacahuates Estilo Japonés (Japanese-Style Peanuts)

In July, we attended the wedding of one of our good friends – a Mexicophile – and a wonderful man from Puebla state. They had excellent wedding favors: a packet of candy, filled with their favorite candies from Mexico and the U.S. We were particularly struck by what a blue plastic packet of “Cacahuates Estilo Japonés” (literally “Japanese Style Peanuts.”) They appear to be unique to Mexico: large peanuts, de-shelled, covered with a thick, dried sweet coating with a hint of soy sauce. It took us a couple minutes to figure out that the coating we even edible (too used to shelling peanuts at baseball games, I suppose!), and when we finally did, we were perplexed by the texture and the flavor. After that, they became one of our go-to snacks: salty, sweet, crunchy, and soft all at the same time. A bit of research has yielded no definitive answer as to their origins: unique to Mexico, they appear to have no relation to Japan other than a hint of soy flavor. Beyond that, it is unclear how they were developed in Mexico, and who developed them. The best part, according to Slashfood contributor Joe DiStefano, is the packaging, which depending on the brand “which ranges from a geisha to a Mr. Peanut-type character dressed in a baseball uniform.

Nishikawa brand Japanese-style peanuts (via The Grande Enchilada)

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Julia Child’s 100th Birthday

Julia Child would have turned 100 today, so it’s the perfect time to reflect on her amazing contribution to the world of gastronomy.  When Julia Child published Mastering the Art of French Cooking in 1961, it completely rekindled American interest in French cuisine. The book has since gone into 18 printings (and is even available as an eBook). Child continued to spread her love for French cooking through a series of successful television shows, beginning with The French Chef, one of the first TV cooking series, and subsequent cookbooks. However, one of her most important contributions is introducing Americans to the fun of cooking, rather than treating cooking as a chore.

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Diverse, International Restaurants in London

So the Olympics are officially over – and we are sad (though we are looking forward to Rio)! However, while the international athletes may have gone home, the international food scene in London is only growing. With over 8 million people, London has an amazingly diverse population and food scene. Indian food, arguably the most popular cuisine in the UK, is found nearly everywhere in the city, and there are amazing Indian restaurants for every budget. While London has long been home to South Asian food on Brick Lane and has a Vibrant Chinatown, it is home to many other far-flung cuisines.  London Ethnic Eating is a blog dedicated to exploring ethnic food in the city, turning up eateries ranging from Vietnamese to AlgerianTime Out London’s List of top 50 restaurants includes many international options.

Brick Lane at Night

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Nasi Lemak: National Dish of Malaysia

Until a few days ago, every medal won by the country of Malaysia had been won by a male in badminton,. That all changed with 19 year-old Pandelela Rinong, who won a bronze medal in women’s 10 meter platform diving. Rinong was also the flag-bearer for her country at the opening ceremony, and it is easy to see why: the interview she conduced with NBC reporters after winning her medal could have been a commercial for the Malaysian tourism board, with Rinong endlessly beaming with pride over being Malaysian.

The national dish of Malaysia is Nasi Lemak, a rice-based dish cooked in coconut milk and served on a pandan leaf. The name translates to “rich” or “fatty” rice, a name derived from the cooking process: the rice is steamed and simmered in coconut milk, giving it a rich and creamy texture and flavor. That done, the nasi lemak is served with any number of accompaniments, depending on the time of day (it can be breakfast, lunch, or dinner): this usually includes sambal, along with sliced cucumber, hard-boiled egg, anchovies (usually fried), roasted peanuts, and meat. Then, just mix and match the flavors any way you wish! We can only assume the dish is plentiful at all times of day on Jalan Alor, the main eating street in Kuala Lumpur, but unfortunately we did not sample it on our 12-hour layover tour of KL in 2010. We’ll have to go back – Pandelela, want to take us on a tour of your capital? You seem just like the person to do it!

 

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Seswaa: National Dish of Botswana

File:Flag of Botswana.svgCongratulation to Nijel Amos of Botswana, who earned the first-ever medal for his home nation by finishing second in the men’s 800 meters! In celebration of his achievement, we learned a little about Seswaa, arguably Botswana’s national dish. Seswaa (also called Chotlho) is a mashed-meat stew, often reserved for special occasions. It’s preparation is simple: typically cooked by men, chunks of meat are slowly simmered in salt and water in a three-legged iron pot (like the ones pictured below courtesy of our friend Brendan). Margarita’s international recipes has a rather humorous recollection of trying to pound the meat with a wooden spoon to produce the desired result, but with little luck – for her, the gristle seemed to prevent a proper pounding, so she had to resort to shredding instead.

Image

And if you don’t want to try Seswaa or one of the any other great Botswana dishes, you should give a Mopane worm a try!

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Top Food Trucks in London

It is no secret that we are mad about food carts, and we consider them to be one of America’s most important exports. Food cart culture has spread to Paris in recent years and has taken root in London. It is worth noting that food “cart” and food “truck” have very different connotations in British English, with food carts having a somewhat dubious reputation. Not to fear though, high quality and innovative food trucks are on the rise in London, right on the heels of booming food truck culture in the US. The variety of London food truck is admirably vast and street foodies can choose from gourmet burgers, curry, chocolate, Vietnamese, and Mexican, among others.

The Luardos Food Truck in London

The Guardian has a list of food trucks picks in London , along with some mouth-watering recipes from each (we are especially digging the Carnitas recipe from Luardos). Migrationology has another round of 6 picks, including meatballs and hotdogs (sounds a little familiar to Chicago, no?). Another truck that found its way onto nearly all of the lists was Crêperie Nicholas, a fan-favorite for crêpes, served out of a restored 1965 Citroën truck. Southern food has also made its way to London, and the Pitt Cue Co. truck even offers pulled pork. This extremely important development means we could move to London easily, should the need arise. Most intriguingly we are excited to note the appearance of the HMS Flake 99, an ice cream truck that doubles as a BOAT (see below). For the latest in London street food developments, you can keep up with the Eat.st site.

HMS Flake 99 photo by Eater

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