In Oaxaca we were floored by the delicious chocolate, and its almost-ubiquitous presence. There was even a chocolate street, Mina street, where you can load up on chocolate in all forms (definitely worth a future post). Many of the stores on Mina street demonstrate how chocolate is made right in the front of the shop. We were surprised to see how (relatively) easy it is to make, though the huge quantities are a little daunting. Saveur has a short instructional video showing you how it’s done, though you do need a grinder, even at home.
How to make Mexican chocolate
Making of a Kronos Gyros Cone
Inspired by both our hunt for the perfect gyros, and our undying love for al pastor trompos, we were excited to this video about how the emblematic Kronos gyros cone is made. If you are from Chicago, the sometimes-cheesy “Kronos” gyros signs are nearly ubiquitous.
Ask for Kronos Gyros! by Chris Walts
Filed under Links
Our Favorite Tacos Al Pastor in Chicago: Taqueria Los Barrilitos
After our trip to Mexico City, we became obsessed with finding the best tacos al pastor in Chicago. We found some excellent tacos al pastor at Xoco – but there were some downsides – it is only available once a week, and was a little pricey. We wanted somewhere we could get a cheaper tacos every day of the week to satisfy our true al pastor cravings. One name that kept coming up on our radar was Taqueria Los Barrilitos (3518 West 25th Street, Chicago, IL), so we knew we had to visit.
Los Barrilitos
We rolled up to Los Barrilitos on a cold night just before Christmas, and before we committed to dining, M peeked in the window to make sure there was a trompo piled high with marinated pork. There was! We had been burned before by places that were rumored to have a trompo, but did not in reality. Score a point for Los Barrilitos! We were excited the place was festooned up brightly for Christmas, lights, decorated tree and all (even the cactus had bows for Christmas). There was no menu: you just chose from a small selection of tacos including steak, al pastor and tripe. The trompo looked pretty amazing, so we went with only the al pastor tacos ($1.75) each and a horchata rice drink.
Al Pastor at Los Barrilitos
The tacos were brought out pretty quickly by a kind waitress, along with pickled habaneros and two salsas. The tacos were bigger than we expected, and came on warm corn tortillas with the traditional onion and cilantro toppings. The al pastor was a standout, with a great color, flavor and a nice char. It definitely reminded me of some of our favorites from Mexico City. Our only knock against them was that there was no pineapple, part of the intrinsic al pastor experience.
Trompo at Los Barrilitos
We polished off our tacos pretty quickly and the cook even let us take a few pictures of the trompo on our way out. He actually seemed kind of humored that we took such an interest in the trompo. We left Los Barrilitos in a better mood than after most meals of 2014. These tacos al pastor are the real deal, and for the right price! Please visit Los Barrilitos ASAP (for both the al pastor and for the festive cactus).
Cactus with bows at Los Barrilitos, our spirit plant
Filed under Reviews, World Eats
Finding La fève, the king cake trinket
Legend has it, if you find the toy inside the King Cake (or Gallette des Rois: recipe here) on Three Kings Day on January 6th, you become king or queen for the day. The classic king cake trinket in the US is a plastic or porcelain baby, though it was traditionally a fava bean (la fève in French). Now the term “la fève” has come to refer to any kind of trinket that may be found inside the cake, and may be any assortment of tiny characters, foods or animals (though some bakeries in the US are doing away with them altogether). There is something of a collectors market around particularly artistic or rare fèves, and their collectors are called “favophiles.” We came upon a particularly cute assortment of fèves at La Fournette bakery in Chicago, they may just entice us into becoming favophiles.
King Cake Fèves at La Fournette in Chicago
Filed under Holidays, World Eats
Dinner at Sobremesa Supper Club
Happy 2015! We’re back from “break,” and we wanted to kick off the year with a review of one of the top dining experiences we had in 2014: Sobremesa Supper Club. Have you ever wanted to have an amazing Michelin-caliber dinner in the record-filled dining room of a house in Pilsen with an assortment of uber-cool friends you haven’t met yet? Well, now you do! Sobremesa gives you that experience and more. We had been meaning to try Sobremesa for months and in November we finally got our chance.
Sobremesa, the brainchild of Chef Gabriel Moya and husband and wife team Efren Candelaria and Mayra Estrella, is a pop up supper club that has dinners every few weeks (more in summer, less in winter), driven by creativity and local produce. Beyond amazing food, it is definitely the little touches that put this dinner into a whole other realm. For one, each dinner has its own original limited edition mini-poster and handwritten menu – each tucked in a 45 record sleeve. The musical theme carries into the rest of dinner, and diners are welcomed to rifle through the extensive record collection which included the likes of Jorge Ben (our favorite), Ray Barretto and Fela Kuti.
The dinner was BYOB in the front room of a cool Pilsen house, and the long table seated a maximum of 12 people. There were a couple of groups of friends there and one other “lone” couple, who we talked to. I am not usually one for the whole communal table experience, but it was nice to chat with like-minded food lovers. Efren also was great about talking to everyone and explaining the mission and concept behind Sobremesa. After some mixing and mingling, we took our places at the table. We each received a handwritten menu with the dishes of the day, though the descriptions were cryptic enough to make you wonder about the true shape of the dish.
*We started off with plantain chips and aji amarillo, served family style (below). We love anything with Peruvian aji amarillo, so we totally gobbled this all up.
*The next dish was simply titled: Pear, hibiscus and onions, and was a delightfully composed, simple plate. The sweetness contrast between the pears and onions was delightful.
*Next was something a bit more substantial: Cauliflower soup with a quail egg and fried leeks. Really, this was fried leek roots; it was here the chef made a point of discussing how chefs often ignore or discard potentially wonderful parts of plants, in this case, the roots. This soup was super creamy and delicious, and the use of the fried leeks was truly inspired. L also enjoyed the Lilliputian quail egg.
*The fried Brussels spouts (inspired by Momofuku) with radishes made us believer in Brussels sprouts for once.
*Next up was the unusual textures of roasted pumpkin and crema with coffee with ground cherries and puffed rice. This took on a smoky and almost mole-like flavor, and was super-complex. An appropriate dish for a November dinner, Chef Moya referred to this as something of a statement on the potential of pumpkin to stand on its own without the use of sugar, as many chefs (and palates) seem to insist on using pumpkin as a sweet / dessert dish. Here, the natural flavors of the pumpkin shined through, and worked beautifully with the coffee and crema.
*Between the next 2 courses, there was a palate cleanser of pickled beets and carrots, an elevated version of what you may find in a little dish on a taqueria table.
*Next was one of our favorite dishes of the night: chicken of the woods mushroom tacos with corn tortillas and cotija cheese. We were totally surprised by the umami taste of the mushrooms- so meaty! (cue Soup clip). This was a course we could eat on a daily basis.
*The dessert of the night was billed modestly as “Apple and Yogurt and Coriander” but this turned out to be one of the most complex and surprising dishes. Originally this plate came out as smoked coriander cake topped with pickled mustard seeds and apples. After a minute, Chef Moya came out with the whey left over from the previous dish’s queso fresco, and used it as a sauce for the dish. Beautiful.
*The final dish was oats, figs and queso fresco cheese topped with chamomile honey. The texture was Oatmeal-like and perfectly complemented by the savory/sweet figs and cheese.
One of the stated goals of Sobremesa is to be veggie-forward and accessible, and they definitely succeeded. Though $55 (not including tips) isn’t pocket change, it is a great price for the amount of food you get. All of the dishes were tasty and creative, and the flow of each dish into the next was perfect. Dinner at Sobremesa has to be one of our top meals of 2014, and it was certainly our most unique dining experience. We are looking forward to trying Sobremesa in a different season – we know they will have something creative in store!
Filed under Reviews
Tourtière for New Years Eve in Quebec
2014 is rapidly coming to a close, which means its time to reflect on the year gone by, drink some champagne and make some holiday food. One of the traditional Christmas season and New Year’s foods in Quebec is the Tourtière, a meat pie that is emblematic of Quebecois, and Canadian, cuisine. Tourtière has been around since the 1600s, and usually consists of ground pork in a pastry crust. The dish has since spread south into New England and into Louisiana with the Acadian communities, where the pie has been adapted over time to suit new locations and tastes. NPR’s the Salt has a brief history and a recipe and Chatelaine has updated the recipe with a new shape.
French-Canadian Tourtière by Jack Letourneau
How to Make a Festive Jamaican Sorrel Drink
Need an alternative holiday drink to eggnog or glögg? How about Sorrel, a spiced hibiscus drink from Jamaica, especially popular at Christmas? Sorrel, as it is called in Jamaica, is very similar to the drink called Jamaica, popular in Mexico. Confused yet? No worries, it’s easy enough to make. To make some proper sorrel you need hibiscus flowers, simmered with some sugar, ginger, pimento berries and spices (and maybe rum). I think we will make up a batch for New Year’s Eve!
Holiday Sorrel Drink by Red Tail Panther
Your New Wednesday Plans: Tacos al Pastor at Xoco
So you don’t have plans for Wednesday night? Ok, now you do. You plan is to go get tacos al pastor at Xoco (449 North Clark Street, Chicago, IL)! Every Wednesday after 5 PM, Xoco’s main draw is the al pastor, made from layers of seasoned pork, topped with pineapple carved right off of a trompo (a giant meat cone – much like the one used to make gyros) Mexico City style. When we went to al pastor day at Xoco, Rick Bayless was even there to monitor and maintain the trompo. Nice – that’s quality assured!
Al Pastor Trompo (partially in hiding) at Xoco
It is $11 for 3 tacos on corn tortillas, which come in a basket with a small side of a spicy chipotle salsa. We thought the price was a little steep, but we figured we were paying for quality – and we were – everything was delicious! The al pastor meat was flavorful and had a deep red color with a nice crispy crust, just how we like it. Each taco was also topped with a crispy slaw (non-traditional) and slices of pineapple (traditional). Xoco’s was probably the best rendition of al pastor we had in the city so far, though it made us mostly want to go to Mexico City. The corn tortillas were a little cold, which was our only knock against the dish.
Tacos Al Pastor at Xoco
We plan on making a visit to Xoco’s Tacos al pastor a Wednesday night tradition. A trompo is the key to delicious tacos al pastor, and they are relatively rare, so finding one is a great thing. We have word that the al pastor tacos will be available at Xoco until March, so make a visit while you still can.
Tacos Al Pastor 3 for $11
How Candy Canes are made
Merry Christmas! Whether you celebrate or not, hope you are having a lovely day, and something good to eat. We know we will be stuffed with sweets today. In that holiday spirit, please enjoy this awesome video of candy canes being made at Lofty Pursuits in Florida.
Filed under Holidays
A Modern Feast of the Seven Fishes menu
A traditional Italian-American tradition is to have a meal composed of seven fish dishes on Christmas Eve aka the Feast of the Seven Fishes. Tasting Table has a modern and innovative Feast of the Seven Fishes menu for your Christmas Eve table, or any time of the year you’re craving some seafood.
Feast of the Seven Fishes by Lauren Dellzia
Filed under Holidays
Bretzels at the Chicago Christkindlmarket
One of the great holiday traditions in Chicago is visiting the German-inspired Christkindlmarket in Daley plaza in Chicago. At the Christkindlmarket, you can get your fill of German and America treats, buy some of the famous German glass ornaments (including the famous pickle ornament), and pick up a commemorative mug of spiced wine, Glühwein. As for other food and drink, you can also get döner, sausages, roast nuts, stollen, potato pancakes, strudel and more. However, for us, the treat of choice is the Bavarian pretzel aka bretzel. When we were in Germany this was our favorite snack, and there are several varieties available at the Christkindlmarket from the Pretzel Haus stand (from Bad Oeynhausen) for less than $5 apiece. We go for the classic bretzel, though there are cheese-filled and sugary varieties as well. It is the prefect market day food- warm, filling, and portable! Christmas Eve is the last day the Christkindlmarket is open – so don’t delay in getting your holiday bretzel.
Superb Cuban Lechon at Señor Pan
Señor Pan
4612 West Fullerton Avenue
Chicago, IL
If there’s one thing you know about M it is that he loves pig: bacon, pork, lechon. You name it, he loves it. We especially love whole roast pig prepared Caribbean style, or as lechon. We have been on the hunt for our favorite lechon in the city for the past year or so, and we have come up with some pretty great options, though the hunt continues. We were going to an event at the excellent SRBCC, and we wanted someplace quick and casual to eat, and came upon Señor Pan. When we learned they had lechon we were sold.
Señor Pan is located in a strip mall in the West side, in the Hermosa neighborhood. There is not much to see on the outside, but the inside is much nicer than you would think! It is decorated like a Cuban house, with an indoor trellis and murals. It was impeccably clean and super lively -filled with families, couples and groups of friends. There was also a full bar, but most people seemed to be enjoying the food. The menu is fairly large, with a selection of sandwiches and platters, including the popular Cubano and Medianoche sandwiches. For entrees there were a variety of steaks, chicken, and even salmon and some veggie entrees.
We of course went with the lechon. L got a regular lechon sandwich (only $4.95) and M got the lechon platter with black beans and platanos maduros (grilled sweet plantains) for $9.95. However, the star of the show was definitely the lechon – it was juicy, well-seasoned and tender and perfectly complemented by the caramelized onions. The sandwich size was also excellent for the price – we couldn’t believe we got so much food for so little (and the Cuban bread was darn tasty, too). M ordered a banana batido/milkshake ($3.50); other varieties included mamey, mango and strawberry. L also got a traditional Cuban cortadito to finish the meal ($1.50) – a small cup of strong, sweetened espresso. The cortadito was excellent – no bitterness at all!
There was also a small selection of Cuban coffee and snacks to take home with you. It also bears noting that Señor Pan has a mascot, who is too funny not to include in this post. Señor Pan was definitely a great, and surprisingly-atmospheric, place for a bite. Go for the lechon and stay for the coffee.
Filed under Reviews
Maltese cuisine in London at Parparellu
We often talk about how finding food from small island nations can be difficult. However, we finally pinned one down- Malta. When we were in London, we actually found a Maltese restaurant with a lot of good press, Parparellu (93, Fulham Palace Road, W6 8JA London). Parparellu is located near Hammersmith, in Southwest London, and is a bright, cheerful and modern restaurant. We knew we were in the right place because there was even a Maltese Cross-shaped cake displayed proudly in the window! Upon entering the store, we were immediately greeted by the friendly Maltese proprietor, Joseph Pace, who helped explain all of the items for sale.
Maltese goods for sale at Parparellu
Along with a large glass deli counter of prepared foods, there were soda, wine and snacks from Malta for sale, as well as a freezer full of take-and-bake goods. Joe assured us that everything is made fresh in the store, except for the pastizzi – which are made in Malta and shipped over frozen. We were really impressed by the large variety of pastries and prepared dishes for sale, and though some seemed similar to Italian or Greek food – all being Mediterranean neighbors- others were completely unique and new to us. It is worth noting that Parparellu also serves Illy coffee, so we took the chance to get a quick pick-me-up.
Our favorite treat was the pouch-like qassatat pastry (£0.85), filled with either tuna, spinach or ricotta. We went with the ricotta. Another traditional Maltese pastry on offer was the pastizzi (£0.95), a lobster-tail-like delicate pastry filled with mushy peas and ricotta – and we thought mushy peas were just a fish and chips thing. For some more substantial mains, we got a takeaway box filled with feta and cucumber salad and couscous with golden raisins (pay by weight). We were completely impressed by how nice and fresh everything looked, and were also tempted by the baked macaroni-and-bolognese timpana. To finish up, we selected from among the vast array of Maltese cookies, including a Maltese take on the cannoli – spelled with a “k”. We were a bit overwhelmed by all the cookies, but Joe suggested that we try the Kwalezimar: chewy almond paste cookies flavored with orange blossom water.
Our Maltese Picnic Lunch (l-r): Pastizzi, feta salad and couscous in box, qassatat, and kwalezimar
After picking everything up we went to a park that was somewhat near to our AirB&B – the Kyoto garden of Holland Park. We dug into our food, and managed to attract the attention of squirrels and some peacocks while doing so. Everything was fresh and delicious, and not too much worse for wear after a tube ride. The pastries were definitely standouts, with tender, flaky crust, and flavorful fillings. The mushy peas even had a hint of curry flavor, which we were not expecting, but appreciated. We are so glad we visited Parparellu to finally get a taste Maltese food. Now if only we could find some stateside….
Filed under Reviews
The Best Thing We’ve Eaten Recently: Cinnamon Roll at Baker Miller
Everyone has been buzzing about Baker Miller (4610 N. Western Ave.), and the fact that they mill their own flour, adding yet another layer of artisan to the artisanal bakery. Everyone is especially buzzing about their bread and toast bar – there are even toasters available at every table to toast it up yourself. So when we visited on Saturday, we were a little disappointed to see the power was out (and therefore the toasters, too) – not their fault – it affected the whole block. But luckily for us that meant they were having a fire sale on cinnamon rolls – 2 for 1 at (normal price $3.50). The cinnamon rolls were huge – so this is a really good bargain. We decided to split one in the store and take one home for later. On appearance alone, we were delighted – but the taste was even better – this was a darned good cinnamon roll! The roll, which was actually an earthy sourdough, had a good cinnamon flavor, and was not covered in a gross sticky glaze that I hate, like at some other venues. The “raw sugar” frosting was also particularly fresh, and not overpoweringly sweet. This was a restrained cinnamon roll – and we liked it. You can even take some rolls to bake at home yourself. After our excellent cinnamon roll experience, we can’t wait to visit Baker Miller again when they have power.
Cinnamon Roll at Baker Miller
Filed under Pastry Post-Poc, Reviews
Into the south with Big Jones
We have been meaning to try Big Jones ( 5347 North Clark Street) for a long time, and when we took a look at their Big Southern menu with elevated takes on lowcountry, cajun and creole classics, we certainly weren’t disappointed! Big Jones itself is very simple and clean, with wrought iron chairs, damask wallpaper and cool marble tables. The dark restaurant that is much deeper than it looks with lots of room for tables – seriously – it just keeps going. Big Jones has a slightly retro vibe, but certainly no kitsch, and that definitely set the tone for the night.
For those beverage connoisseurs, there was a huge selection of both American and imported Whiskey and Bourbon, and you can even join a Bourbon tasting club, where you can get a passport to stamp, and when you have gotten 46 stamps you earn the title of “Master Taster.” You are definitely spoiled for choice on other parts of the menu as well. M particularly liked the ability to build your own charcuterie plate. M sampled the Boudin Rouge ($6), a blood sausage he had tried on a visit to Baton Rouge, and tasso ($7), a heavily cured and spiced ham. The tasso came with a side of pimento cheese, made with our perennial favorite, Hook’s cheddar, which was fantastic.
Big Jones Cornbread
First off, we were depressed that there were no biscuits available for dinner, since we will eat biscuits at any opportunity available. The waitress implied that we should have known that, but who doesn’t want biscuits ALL the time (Suggestion to Big Jones: have biscuits available all the time). We tried to fill the biscuit shaped hole in our heart with other sides. First up: cornbread with honey butter ($6). This cornbread come out in its own cute mini cast iron skillet, and was served with shallots, whipped butter and local honey, which was a real complement to the light and crispy cornbread. For another starter, we tried the cornmeal-crusted fried green tomatoes ($8), tasty but not as memorable as the cornbread.
Big Jones Fried Chicken
We tried to get a sampling of dishes from the menu, and we heard especially glowing things about the fried chicken. The fried chicken, though a little expensive ($23 for a half) was an absolutely huge portion, enough for two: a breast, thigh, wing and drumstick. It also came with a side of chicken and dumplings and collard greens. The highlight of the fried chicken was the delicious buttermilk and cornmeal breading, and the crispy skin, which had been fried in fried in leaf lard, ham drippings, and clarified butter (not for the diet-minded). Though the chicken was not quite as moist as it could be, the juicy crust made up for this minor shortfall. Our other main entree was shrimp and grits ($17), made with heirloom grits dotted with cheese, mushrooms, tasso ham, and butter. The grits were extraordinarily velvety and creamy, but with a very strong tasso flavor, in case you are not feeling bacon-y.
Big Jones Shrimp and Grits
We finished up the meal with a decadent trio of homemade gelato: salted caramel, chocolate and the more unusual mamey fruit flavor. We really enjoyed our meal at Big Jones, it was an elevated southern experience that wouldn’t have been out of place in the restaurant scene of Savannah or Charleston. We appreciated the obvious care they put into the sourcing and preparation of their food, and their respect for Southern foodways. Especially on a cold night, it’s nice to be transported to the south.
Morocco’s Hanukkah Treat: Sfenj
[Via Metafilter] While the Israeli jelly doughnut Sufganiyot may be more commonly known in the US, Sfenj is Morocco’s answer to fried, doughnut-like Hanukkah treat. The Moroccan fried doughnuts have an unsweetened yeast dough, and are drenched in honey or sugar for sweetness. They may also be drizzled with date syrup. Yum! Sfenj are found throughout North Africa, and are often cooked up as a street food for breakfast for those of all religions. Here is a recipe for Sfenj from Shelly’s Humble Kitchen and the Toronto Star for those who are doughnut-inclined. Check out a video below of Sfenj being expertly prepared in Morocco.
A Giant Jelly Donut / Sufganiyot Cake for Hanukkah
Hanukkah starts tomorrow – so it’s about time to start prepping some holiday treats. One Hanukkah treat we detailed in years’ past was sufganiyot, the Israeli jelly doughnut associated with Hanukkah. However this year we can do one better – how about a huge sufganiyot cake? Food 52 has an inspired recipe for the sweet Hanukkah treat that’s perfect for sharing with the whole family.
Sufganiyot cake by Food 52
Carl Larsson and the Swedish Table
Carl Larsson is a Swedish Arts and Crafts painter, who is known for his scenes of everyday turn-of-the-century Swedish life, and especially for depicting his own home and family. His paintings have also become associated with St. Lucia’s Day (December 13th), due to his popular depictions of the Swedish folk festival. His St. Lucia pictures include the traditional treats, but those were not his only paintings of Swedish food culture. As you can see below, the Swedish table was one of his favorite subjects.
“St. Lucia” by Carl Larsson
“A Miner’s Home” – Carl Larsson
“At the Breakfast Table” by Carl Larsson
“The Friend from Town” by Carl Larsson
“Martina With Breakfast Tray” by Carl Larsson
“Splitting Peas” by Carl Larsson
Filed under Design and Photography, Holidays, World Eats
The Rise of the Organic Favela
There have been several high-profile stories in the past few months about the rise of upscale restaurants and dining culture in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. A new development in Rio is Regina Tchelly’s Favela Orgânica project, which is changing the way food is used and thought about in the Babilônia favela. Tchelly’s mission is to take the parts of ingredients that are mostly thrown away, and use them in new and interesting ways. Seems like a mission that can – and should – expand throughout Rio and beyond!
Filed under Links, World Eats
Eating The World 