Exploring the Camden Lock Global Food Market

united_kingdom Many visitors to London, so we are told, cap their trip with a leisurely boat ride along the Thames – a journey which, surely, will take you to some fine culinary destinations. But – and this knowledge is thanks to a trip from our well-traveled friend Robin – London also possesses a series of small navigable canals in the central and northern parts of the city. You can ride, as we did, a British longboat from the back of Paddington Station to the Camden Lock, a leisurely ride through London’s “Little Venice” that took us by grand estates, leafy parks and an assortment of floating homes and cafes. And, prize of prizes, the boat will drop you off at what may be one of our favorite food markets ever: Camden Lock Market.

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Camden Lock Market is large, with a wide range of stores, restaurants, and shops that can get very crowded and touristy. But at this end, nearest to the boat dock, you find “Global Kitchen,” which features a plethora of appealing and appetizing food stalls around a gridded series of walkways. Even at the odd hour of 3 pm, this place was jam packed (the market is open 10am-6pm most days). Our first reaction? Overwhelming. It took half an hour just to find all the options available: Japanese noodles, Argentine grilled meats, Peruvian snacks, West African meals, kielbasa, vegan wraps, paella, cookies, piadina, and more. Everything- and we mean everything- looked good!???????????????????????????????

Choices, choices. L finally opted for South African bunny chow at Boerie en Bunny (£5.5). Operated by a woman who wins the award for genuinely nicest person we have ever met, Boerie en Bunny serves South African curries and fish stews over your choice of rice or “Bunny Chow” – a hollowed out roll (bun – get it?), stuffed with your order. We went with a rich and deeply flavorful spicy goat curry, topped with yogurt and fresh cilantro – a choice that was only made after our amiable friend forced us to try all the options she had available, and then asked us to stay just to taste a her seafood stew (fantastic, and very reminiscent of a Brazilian moqueca).

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Next, we opted to reminisce about our 2011 Istanbul trip with a Turkish lahmacun at Istanbul lahmacun (£5), a pizza-esque dish topped with ground lamb. Lahmacun are a very popular street snack in Istanbul, and we had the good fortune to try a few while were there. The stall owner, from Istanbul herself (authenticity points!) was very happy to learn we enjoyed her hometown, and eager to talk about her life experiences and food in London. The good food matched the owner’s ambiability: our lahmacun was huge, covered in ground lamb, yogurt and veggies, which made for a filling and delicious main course.

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Finally, for dessert we had one dozen Dutch poffertjes (aka “Dutch Pancakes”; £3.5) from a stall of the same name. These little puffs have the appearance of mini dough UFOs or slightly flattened donut holes. The gentleman manning the stall (see photo below) was a complete pro: flipping the poffertjes in the special pan at a lightning speed with a pair of chopsticks. Of course we could not resist topping them with Nutella.

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We ate a lot of street food in London, but the Camden Lock Market was our hands-down favorite! If you are looking for cheap, good food in London you absolutely must go. You can get there by tube, but the boat is even more fun.

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FiveThirtyEight Determines America’s Best Burrito

During the World Cup this summer we talked a little about 538’s International Food Association World Cup for the best national cuisine (the winner was Italy, by the way). This time around, the data-hungry minds at 538 have turned their analysis to the best burrito in America. In some ways this seemed like a potentially even more daunting task, given the vast regional differences and preferences for burritos. However, 538 was able to develop a shortlist of 64 finalists, and burrito tester Anna Maria Barry-Jester actually went from coast to coast (and Hawaii) tasting the burritos first-hand. The burritos were ranked on five parameters – Tortilla, Principal filling, Other ingredients, Appearance and Flavor profile – each out of 20, for a best possible score of 100. The results are in, and 538 has selected a winner of the coveted “best burrito” honor: La Taqueria in the Mission district of San Francisco. This was a pretty rigorous study and I commend 538’s thoroughness, for the sports/rankings geeks, check out the bracket view. Do you agree with the results?

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La Taqueria in San Francisco by Todd Lappin

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Happy 1000th post to ETW!

So we’ve been at it a while here at ETW – just under 7 years, in fact – and as of today, we have reached our one thousand-th post! That calls for some celebratory pie, we think. In honor of this milestone, here are some random stats from our past 1000 posts. We’re looking forward to the next 1000!

5 Most Popular Posts (noting a trend for Puerto Rican and Macarons):

  1. Nutelleria – the all Nutella restaurant
  2. Battle Royale: Macarons
  3. The Best Macarons in Paris
  4. Puerto Rico: Pan de Mallorca
  5. Eating Puerto Rico: Mofongo with the locals

Top 5 Countries our visitors come from (in terms of # of visits):

  1. US
  2. UK
  3. Canada
  4. France
  5. Germany

Countries that have only visited ETW once:

  1. Marshall Islands
  2. Sierra Leone
  3. Greenland
  4. Djibouti
  5. Bhutan
  6. Vatican City

 Most popular tags on ETW:

  1. Brazil
  2. Portugal
  3. Italy
  4. Mexico
  5. France

 

Parson's Chicken and Fish Pie

Bang Bang Key Lime Pie at Parson’s Chicken and Fish in Chicago

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Nutelleria and Eatella, all-Nutella eateries to open in Brooklyn and Montreal

We wrote previously about the Nutelleria, an all-nutella eatery that has outposts in Frankfurt and Bologna. Now have come to find out that there is also a Nutelleria opening in Park Slope, Brooklyn. However, it is shrouded in mystery. Is it related to the other Nutellerias? Is it sanctioned by Ferrero (the makers of Nutella)? There is a similar mysterious buzz circling around Montreal’s soon-to-open Eatella. All we know if that neither of these places are planning to open a branch in Chicago (though Chicago’s Eataly does have a sanctioned Nutella bar) – and we need more Nutella options here, stat!

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Pastry Post Doc’s Scottish Desserts: Ecclefechan Butter Tarts

ScotlandFlagYesterday we covered an emblematic English dessert, the Bakewell Tart on ETW, so today, the day on which Scotland votes on independence, it seemed only appropriate to feature a Scottish treat. The Ecclefechan butter tart’s name tells much of its story, a buttery pastry from the small Scottish town of Ecclefechan. The pastry is a short crust, filled with dried fruit, butter, sugar and eggs, with the secret ingredient of vinegar. However, their reach goes far beyond Scotland, where they are considered the predecessor for an emblematic Canadian treat, the more simply named butter tart. London Eats has a recipe for Ecclefechan butter tart, a relatively rare treat even in the UK.

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Ecclefechan Tart by Richard Milnes

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Pastry Post Doc’s English desserts: Bakewell Tart

EnglandWhen we were in London this past month, we were absolutely blown away by the huge amount of international cuisines available (even compared to our last visit 10+ years ago). However, we wanted to give proper attention to English classics including our favorite category of food – sweets. Now, we are no strangers to English candy, but we had not ventured far into the world of desserts, or as they are called locally – puddings. While in London, I popped into a bakery that specializes in English treats to brush up on my British baking knowledge: Peyton and Byrne (several locations, I visited 44 Wellington Street, Covent Garden). The case and bakery racks of this appealing cafe were full of delicious treats including familiar-to-Americans apple crumbles and cookies. However, there were some new treats including the Bakewell Tart, which looked too delicious to pass up.

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Mini Bakewell Tarts by Mary E

The Bakewell Tart, which originated in Derbyshire, is tart with a shortbread crust, an almond filling and a layer of raspberry jam. On our trip, we saw Bakewell tarts in mini bite-sized versions (as above), or as larger tarts cut into wedges (as below). At Peyton and Byrne, they cut the pie into wedges (and top with almond slivers), which seems to make the perfect filling to crust ratio. We could tell the jam was homemade, and it perfectly complemented the frangipane filling. We found the Bakewell Tart to be perfectly delightful, or shall we say – moreish! There is a recipe for the Bakewell Tart in Peyton and Byrne’s book, British Baking, and recipes for traditional and exotic Bakewell Tarts abound online.

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Bakewell Tart by Dan Peters

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A Visit to the Mercado de Antojitos in Coyoacán, Mexico City

Mexico FlagToday is Mexican Independence Day, so what better day to talk about some Mexican street food classics? While in Mexico City we enjoyed a lot of amazing street food including a quest to find the perfect tacos al pastor (post forthcoming). However, for the most delicious street food in the smallest space under a single roof, Coyoacán’s street food market, the Mercado de Antojitos, is a veritable one stop shop for low-key, delicious, authentic, friendly and cheap food.

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Part of the major draw, beyond the food of course, is the market’s location in the historical and charming Coyoacán neighborhood in Southern Mexico City. With its cobbled streets and faded mansions, you will feel like you’ve stepped into another era (before Mexico City engulfed it, it was in fact its own town). The Anotjito Market is tucked into a side street near the main square of Coyoacán. There are about a dozen stalls inside, each ringed with stools or benches. This is definitely not a touristy place, and the food is so good – and turnover so high – there isn’t much need for hawking or up-selling.  People of all ages packed the stalls, and for added liveliness, a guitar band entertained.

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We were spoiled for choice by all of the antojitos (literally “little cravings”): so what did we get? One of the most popular dishes on offer was the quesadilla, which means something different that it does in English parlance  (no cheese!). Due to their prevalence and popularity among the market patrons, we knew we had to choose a quesadilla. The quesadillas we tried were deep fried and stuffed with huitlacoche, one of our favorite Mexican flavors. Huitlacoche is technically a corn fungus, and tastes something like a truffle!

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Another popular choice for sale was pozole, a hearty stew made from hominy and pork, which was especially delicious on a somewhat dreary and rainy day. For a little Vitamin C, you can also get your fill of fresh squeezed juices in flavors like strawberry and papaya. Beyond its role in pozole and in the tortillas, corn is king at the market, and for an even purer corn experience try a thick cornmeal drink (atole) or a cup of corn kernels with epazote (esquite). The prices are also very reasonable, so you can get more than a meal’s worth for only a few dollars. A market full of street foods is potentially one of our favorite concepts – and the Mercado de Antojitos definitely did not disappoint.

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The New Economics of Haitian Chocolate

Haitian flagMuch has been made of the dire economic situation of Haiti, and its continued degradation especially following the devastating 2010 earthquake. During and even before French colonization, Haiti’s economy has been based on agriculture; today manufacturing is the broader basis of the economy in terms of exports, and Haiti’s main export is been clothing. However, a new possible economic driver is on the horizon: chocolate.  NPR recently reported on the presence of unique “mother / maman” Haitian cacao trees, which can produce more and better cacao pods than normal trees. Though these trees are not necessarily unique to Haiti, they are plentiful here, and are an untapped resource, sometimes producing twenty times the pods of normal trees.

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Ripe Cacao Pods in Haiti by Nick Hobgood

Though around 60% of Haitians work in agriculture, the cacao market in Haiti has not been a primary economic driver in recent years (though it was exploited by colonial traders in the past). Even though cacao may only be a relatively small business in Haiti, there is major opportunity. As the global taste for chocolate grows, the demand for high quality chocolate products (even at a high prices) is there. One important potential stumbling block: even though the cacao produced from Criollo varietal trees in Haiti is of high-quality, it is often not fermented post-picking, which is considered an essential step in high-quality chocolate production. Consequently, unfermented Haitian cacao beans are often sold for much less than competitors.

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A display of export-quality Cacao Beans at a fair by Nick Hobgood

So what are the next steps to realizing this cacao dream? Unlike many other food industries, cacao is still produced in overwhelming majority by small family farms, a model which will continue in Haiti. One collective, SOGEPA (Societe Genérale de Production Agroindustrielle, “General Society of Agro-Industrial Production”), a cacao exporter that represents 450 family cacao farms in Haiti, was given a grant by LEAD (Leveraging Effective Application of Direct Investment Project –  funded by USAID) post-earthquake to establish distribution and sales channels for the farmers in the collective. US Aid has also developed a program to help train Haitian farmers in effective cacao-raising techniques. FECCANO, a collective of cacao producers in northern Haiti has also been established. Slowly, artisinal Haitian chocolate is even being made available outside of the country. On such brand, the French Fair Trade label Ethiquable, boasts a “Grand Cru” Haitian chocolate bar. Currently Haitian chocolate does not enjoy the same cache as a French or Belgian label, but that could soon change.

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Chinese Cotton Candy Art

chinaCotton candy is always a hit, but this video made us think of it as art. For 2 minutes and 30 seconds from which you will not be able to look away, watch this amazingly talented cotton candy purveyor make some of the sugary stuff into a veritable masterpiece.

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Every American State’s Emblematic Dessert

You know how fond we are of dessert at ETW. Further fueling our post-lunch dessert cravings, Slate wrote a blog post picking one emblematic dessert for each state in the USA. Illinois’ chosen dessert is the Brownie, which was invented in Chicago during the 1893 World’s Fair, purportedly at the request of society magnate Bertha Palmer, who wanted a portable cake-like treat. What do you think of the dessert assigned to your state (if you are in the US)? Do you agree?

Braz Brownie A la Mode

Brownie A la Mode (In Brazil!)

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Koshari, street food of Egypt in London

flags_of_EgyptWe have eaten a lot of Lebanese street food, but Egyptian street food is something new to us. The most emblematic street food in Egypt is koshary/koshari, a mix of pasta and grains topped with chickpeas, a spicy tomato sauce and caramelized onions. Koshari Street  (56 St Martin’s Ln, London WC2N 4EA) does a modern fast casual take on the Egyptian dish, offering three sizes of koshari in take away cups.

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Located in the heart of London, Koshari street provides an unexpected cheap option right in the tourist track (though don’t worry, it is not touristy in the least!). Koshari Street is also a very quick option – Chipotle-style, the koshari is assembled in front of you to order. You can then customize the grain base with tomato sauces in three spiciness levels and you can specify if you would like onions and lemon on top. Though we didn’t think of it at the time, this dish is also vegan which makes it a good area option for all palates.

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There were three sizes of koshari to choose from and we each ordered a small cup for a shockingly reasonable £3. We really enjoyed the mix of pasta and grains and the savory tomato sauce (vaguely reminiscent of Italian pasta and red sauce). M also went the extra mile and got spicy sauce. The koshari was tasty, warm and filling and easy to eat on the go. Definitely the perfect food for ambling about and taking in the sights!

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Visiting Brick Lane Beigel Bake in London

Brick Lane Beigel Bake
159 Brick Lane
London E1 6SB

united_kingdomBrick Lane Beigel Bake is an institution – a window into the Brick Lane of 30 years ago. We first heard about this shop several years ago, and were looking forward to trying it when we were in London. We were not disappointed!  It seems like nothing has changed a bit in the preceding decades, from the battered sign to the linoleum floors. The bagels, spelled in the UK as “beigels” also seem to have been unchanged for years and that’s a good thing. The entire store is literally stuffed with bagels (according to Wikipedia: 7,000 a day). Piled up behind the counter were scores and scores of fluffy bagels, and one of the staff’s buzzing members was completely dedicated to just cutting bagels (definitely a full-time job).

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They certainly do a swift trade, and the prices are listed in a helpful by-the-dozen price chart. Beigel Bake is open 24 hours a day, and though there are sometimes lines, there were only a few people in front of us on an odd 7 PM weeknight. You can by a plain bagel for 50P (extra charge for a cut in the bagel – no joke), or get them filled with a variety of sweet and savory fillings for a little extra. Cream cheese was an obvious choice, but we were also happy to see peanut butter, not a common sight in Europe at all!

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The heartiest fare are the Salt beef sandwiches (£3.70), cut freshly from a huge chunk of beef in the window, and placed on a split bagel. This seemed to be by far the most popular choice, and almost everyone walked away with a salt beef sandwich in a little paper sack. We opted for the slightly lighter salmon and cream cheese, plain cream cheese, as well as a bagel topped with peanut butter. The bagels were delicious and had a nice, light texture: soft but still chewy. This is definitely not a place to relax: you eat at the counter standing up or take your bagels to go. We decided to stand at the counter and take in the busy atmosphere, all the while marveling at how we managed to get a meal in London for under £6!

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The Design of the Turkish Tea Experience

turkeyWe write a lot about food on this blog, but we don’t often touch on the design experience related to dining. When it comes down to it – there is a lot of design involved in every step of the eating experience – from the restaurant/kitchen, the table setting, right down to the shape of a teacup. Fast Company has an interesting piece by John Brownlee about what role design plays in the Turkish tea experience in particular.

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Turkish tea by Estorde

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Kerbisher and Malt, modern fish and chips in London

Kerbisher and Malt
164 Shepherds Bush Rd.
London W6 7PB, United Kingdom

united_kingdomThe neighborhood fish and chips shop, aka “the chippy,” is a British institution, so we figured out it was the proper place to kick off our London food tour (and start our recap, too). I had bookmarked many “best fish and chips in London” list, links and guides, however it was almost overwhelming deciding where to go. Everyone seemed to have a slightly different idea of what made the perfect chippy, and they ran the gamut from 1950s linoleum cafes to plush restaurants serving elevated British cuisine. One of the choices that bubbled to the top across lists was Kerbisher and Malt, which was a more modern, but still simple, rendition of a chippy. We were staying in Shepard’s Bush in West London, so it was a bonus that we were able to walk over to the restaurant (okay, maybe that was a big selling point, though Kerbisher and Malt offers several locations around town).

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Kerbisher and Malt was simple and atmospheric, covered in white subway tiles and with modern wooden tables and iron chairs, with a slightly nautical vibe. The menu is simple, you choose from the selection of  fish and add on the side dishes including the classic mushy peas (£1.60) and chips (£1.90). There are also burgers, shrimp and fish sticks. The fish options available were Haddock, Cod, Coley, Plaice and Pollock, which ranged in price from £5.80 to £6.90. The fish was a la carte, but there was one combination deal, a small order of Coley with small fries and one sauce for £5. For the two of us, we ordered the aforementioned  small meal with curry sauce and Haddock £6.70 with fresh herbed tartar sauce (extra £0.50). Another important disclosure – this was M’s FIRST fish and chips experience, so the pressure was on to make it a good one. We pulled up a chair outside to wait in anticipation for our order.

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As we saw the server walking to our table, we were astounded by the size of the meals, the “small” meal was huge, and the regular size was gigantic. Though the prices may be a little higher than your corner chippy, you certainly get a lot for your money. The fish, in both cases, was tender and flaky, with tasty, crispy (not greasy) breading. The fries were fresh cut and came out piping hot and golden, though they could have been a bit crispier. The sauces were both homemade, and though vastly different, both complemented the fish. Who would have thought a red Tikka Masala-like sauce would have gone so well with fish and chips? However, I guess it makes sense, since they are both British! M highly enjoyed his first fish and chips experience, and vowed to follow up soon with another (or a classic Wisconsin fish fry). Happy and satiated, we felt confident to conquer the rest of the British food world after our auspicious start.

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Off to London!

Paddington

Fellow British Explorer, Paddington Bear

Off to London, with mini stopovers in Brussels and Copenhagen. If you have any recommendations, let us know! See you in a few weeks!

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Old School Italian Grocery in Miami: Laurenzo’s

ItalyWe are obsessed with old school Italian groceries, and we absolutely pine for an offshoot of our gold standard, Tenuta’s to open in Chicago. Laurenzo’s (16445 W Dixie Hwy, North Miami Beach, FL 33160) is Miami’s answer to Tenuta’s, an old-school 1960s era supermarket with a little restaurant inside and a prodigious selection of olive oil and cheese. We were on our way to Hollywood beach for the day, so we decided we needed to pack a perfect picnic. Fortunately, Laurenzo’s had everything that we needed. We wandered the aisles, spending some extra time in front of the cheese counter, where we spied imported mozzarella and provolone. The baked goods selection was also pretty impressive, with a rainbow selection of Italian cookies and house-made cannoli. We could have piled up a basket or two of food, but we tried to keep our appetites in check. Check out the photos below of our wanderings through the store (and of course, we’ll definitely be back next time we end up in Miami). We ended up buying some crostini, buffalo mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes and prosciutto. These are our typical picnic fixin’s, but not typical beach food. We still think it pairs pretty well with the sun and sand!

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The deli counter at Laurenzo’s

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Pannettone and Italian Cookies

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Stay and sit for a while at the cafe.

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Cheese, cheese and more cheese.

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Not your typical beach picnic, but delicious!

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Cheese in London: Neal’s Yard Dairy

One of the things we are looking forward to most in London is the vast variety of British cheeses (and nice cheese shops). The video below is from Neal’s Yard Dairy, one of England’s foremost artisinal cheese shops, which specializes in local cheeses from all around the British Isles. We can’t wait to visit! In this short video below, we get to visit some local producers making St. James, Tymsboro and Montgomery Cheddar cheeses. What are some of your favorite British cheeses to recommend?

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London Calling

EnglandWe are on our way to London at the end of this week, with brief stopovers in Brussels and Copenhagen. We are excited to go to afternoon tea, sample international cuisine (especially Indian food), and amble around the food markets. We are also very excited about sampling some fine British cheeses! What are your favorite places to eat in London?

The Luardos Food Truck in London

The Luardos Food Truck in London

 

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We Beat the Line at Hot Doug’s

Hot Doug’s
3324 N California Avenue
Chicago, IL

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All these horror stories we had heard about the line at Hot Doug’s, and we were prepared. For the crowd-consensus best hog dogs in a hot dog-crazy city like Chicago, we were told to expect lines of three or four hours – especially now with the news of Hot Doug’s permanent vacation, beginning October 4. But who would be in line on a Monday morning at 9:30am, just an hour before they opened? Answer: one single person. So, with a group of three, we chatted together, made some jokes, thought about what to order, and by the time Doug himself opened the door at 10:30am, it almost seemed laughably soon. Getting a table? No problem. We can spread out in any of the open spots. Relax at the table while we wait for the order. But as waltzed right up to the cash register with our orders, we looked back at the line, which now snaked around the block, likely hours of waiting.

We have our choice of tables!

We have our choice of tables!

Doug is a friendly, gregarious guy. He takes every order himself, and it seems no matter how long that line is, he will take his time with you. The same amount of detail he puts in to those interactions seems to be the attention he puts into his hot dogs. Between the three of us, we shared the classics as well as some of the daily specials. The Chicago Style, a steal at $2.50, is a must – relish, mustard, onions, pickles, celery salt, perfectly prepared. Yet we spent our full hour deciding on the specials. Matt eventually decided on the kale, walnut, and raisin pork sausage, topped with curry-coconut mayonnaise,  jalapeño-havarti cheese, and crispy smoked pancetta ($9). Our friends ordered the spicy Thai chicken sausage with sriracha mustard, sesame-seaweed salad, and duck cracklings ($9) and the boudin blanc with roasted garlic rouille and L’Edel de Cleron cheese ($8).

All our hot dog purchases, waiting for our hungry mouths.

All our hot dog purchases, waiting for our hungry mouths.

Doug knows how to pair his ingredients, he knows how to present bold and esoteric flavors, and he knows how to showcase his sausages. If you think $9 is too high a price to pay for a hot dog, then you have not had these. The kale-raisin sausage was the clear winner of the day, in working a lighter, summery sausage against the heavier cheese, but still balancing all the flavors well. The Thai sausage was also a big winner, and it was serious about its spice level. And you just can’t go wrong with the Chicago style. But the question Yelp and everyone else asks – is it worth it? Is it worth the three hours of waiting? All we can say is that the food was great, the owner amiable, and the others waiting in line were having a good time even while they waited. My recommendation is to get there early on a Monday like we did, and then you don’t have to answer that question!

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Supplì vs. Arancini

ItalyWe are extremely intrigued to learn about Suppli, a Roman fried rice ball that is a cousin of the Sicilian arancini. Suppli traditionally have a cheese filling (MOST traditionally with chicken giblets), while arancini have a filling of meat ragu and peas. Of course the fillings of each can vary wildly depending on the creativity of the chef. Overall, arancini tend to be bigger (sometimes even baseball sized) while suppli are smaller. Both suppli and arancini were traditionally found in fried snack shops, but now are popular antipasti at pizzerias and other casual restaurants. We are dumbfounded that we did not have any suppli while in Rome (we need to correct that error ASAP). In any case, we think the US needs some more fried rice treats, whether suppli or arancini.

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